2000 3.8L Power Steering Pump

I have some whining and some rally good shuddering when I turn to the right. Took it to my trusted garage and he quoted me around $250 for new power steering pump installed.
I check Autozone and a lifetime warranty is $59, so i get the Haynes book for Windstar to see if I am up to the challenge. To my disappointment it shows the old style with resevior attached. So I am wondering what does it take to change out a Power Steering pump on a 2000 3.8?? I see the rubber hose, the metal line and two bolts up front. I can feel a 3rd bolt directly behind the thick rubber line on the backside of the pump. Is there only 3 bolts? Any Tips on removing?
I see in manual about pulling the pulley. Is the 2000 pressed on or will replacement have one? I do not have a pulley puller so if I need to switch will a BFH work?
Any tips to keep threaded line from leaking? Can I put teflon tape on threads?

I have some whining and some rally good shuddering when I turn to the right. Took it to my trusted garage and he quoted me around $250 for new power steering pump installed.
I check Autozone and a lifetime warranty is $59, so i get the Haynes book for Windstar to see if I am up to the challenge. To my disappointment it shows the old style with resevior attached. So I am wondering what does it take to change out a Power Steering pump on a 2000 3.8?? I see the rubber hose, the metal line and two bolts up front. I can feel a 3rd bolt directly behind the thick rubber line on the backside of the pump. Is there only 3 bolts? Any Tips on removing?
I see in manual about pulling the pulley. Is the 2000 pressed on or will replacement have one? I do not have a pulley puller so if I need to switch will a BFH work?
Any tips to keep threaded line from leaking? Can I put teflon tape on threads?

I am told that power steering pumps rarely fail, however I replaced one on my 2000 Windstar. There are actually four mounting bolts. Two larger than the other two and you reach them from the hood area. The drive wheel comes off without a puller. Just loosen the bolts holding it in place and move it to the new pump.

The metal line connection is the pressure line going to the power steering and there is a stabilizing bracket for this line that is held in place by one of those mounting bolts. It is a messy job. Just drain everything including the reservoir and you will have to remove it to clean it with some solvent. I used acitone, something that will evaporate quickly and not leave anything to contaminate the Mercron tranmission fluid that you refill this one with.

You will need to go underneath the car to get the tension off of the drive belt. You use a wrench on the idler pulley to move it to loosen the belt and there is a leaf spring on one side of that pulley that you push over close to the base of that pulley that holds it in this loosened position until you go back down to put the tension on the belt when you are finished installing the pump. Just loosen the belt slightly, the spring will pop out and gently let the spring return the pulley to the tighten position.

I would not put teflon tape on any threads. The seal is not with the threads but where the metal meets a ball in the pump housing. It will take longer to clean that reservoir so that the screen in it is clear enough to pass the fluid easily than it will to change the pump.

Search this forum for "power steering" and read those threads. Good luck if you decide to change the pump.

Jim

Use care to avoid getting any fluid onto the drive belt.

I have the infamous steering groan on my 2000 3.8. The level in the res is adequate but I notice a spray of fluid against the firewall next to the pulley that has been there for a while. I tried the stop to stop method for bleeding air and the wheel seems to bind right before I hit either stop. Am I looking at an air issue or am I looking at the pump itself? Where should I focus my attention? Should I flush the system? I'm fairly certain it's original fluid. I've heard there is TSB from Ford about a redesigned hp line. Should I replace this? I guess I'm going to try everything before i assume its the pump or worse- the rack! I know others have had this problem and I'm looking to see what methods have fixed the problem.

..The level in the res is adequate but I notice a spray of fluid against the firewall next to the pulley that has been there for a while..

I had the same thing on my 2001. It was that way when I bought the van in early 2004. A few years later at about 60Kmi while still under ext warranty I had the dealer check it out. It was a slight shaft seal leak. They replaced the pump with a reman'd unit. No more leak, but the a/m pump is noisey. WAY noisier than the OEM was. I flused/purged it twice. Brought this up to the dealer recently @ 72Kmi (still under warranty). This time they replaced the steering rack. Claimed that was the problem. Still hisses/buzzes loudly. She's going to stay that way!

Joel

My 2000 LX 3.8 has the same whine but only when I turn to the left and accellerate can I hear it. I was considering doing the flush like many on this forum have done, and installing an in-line magnetic filter like Wiswind did on his 96. From what Ive read, this usually solves the problem. :grinno:

Hey, I looked under my hood today and I also noticed a spray of oil on the firewall by the steering pump. Also, I opened up the res. and tried to look at the fluid but couldnt see the level, its dark in there. HMMM

In the past year I had a whine coming from my power steering pump. It got louder and louder as time went by. I finally replaced the pump to find the new pump whined just as much. I got a replacement pump and changed it again to find it whined as well. I ended up figuring out the belt tensioner pully located just below the power steering pump was the cause all along. The bearing for the idler pulley had some play in it. The whine sounded just like a power steering whine. After much irritation and hours of my time and a power steering pump I didn't need...the problems are finally solved.