97 sc2 not starting
melody2127
03-15-2006, 05:29 PM
Our 97 sc2 is having a problem starting, we just got it out of the shop, they replaced the crankshaft position sensor, got it home, drove it 180 miles and parked it for the night, in the morning, we were taking it to get its PA state inspection stickers, and the car stalled.. and started again within 15 minutes. after coming back home, the car will not start again, its been 2 days now and still cant figure it out,
any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks in advance
Melody
any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks in advance
Melody
saturnspeed_12
03-15-2006, 06:00 PM
ok so then its cranking and not starting.
well first off is to check for spark, fuel pressure, and fuel injector pulse. then go from there. you could simply have a bad ects or even your new crank sensor could be bad.
well first off is to check for spark, fuel pressure, and fuel injector pulse. then go from there. you could simply have a bad ects or even your new crank sensor could be bad.
melody2127
03-20-2006, 09:17 AM
Ok I went out to but a Obd tool and it real back no codes. So Im guessing its not the CPS. Funny thng is after I hooked up the ODB 2 tool it started up and ran perfect and did so all weekend! Well this morning I was going to take it to get inspected and emmissions test dont to it but the thing wouldnt start again. Its cold this morning so I dont know it that would be it or not. (Im guessing not though even though it was warm all weekend when it ran) Now I should check the Ignition control Module? How do you check that? Infact where is it located and what does it look like? If I had a pic in reference to where it is that would be great! Ive been looking but cant find anything. What else would you think the problem is? Ive taken it to 3 different mechanics not and not a one can figure it out! Im tired of dumping money into it now. So I took it to see what I could figure out. Any suggestions?
melody2127
03-20-2006, 09:19 AM
Ok I went out to but a OBD 2 tool and it read back no codes. So Im guessing its not the CPS. Funny thng is after I hooked up the ODB 2 tool it started up and ran perfect and did so all weekend! Well this morning I was going to take it to get inspected and emmissions test done to it but the thing wouldnt start again. Its cold this morning so I dont know it that would be it or not. (Im guessing not though even though it was warm all weekend when it ran) Now I should check the Ignition control Module? How do you check that? Infact where is it located and what does it look like? If I had a pic in reference to where it is that would be great! Ive been looking but cant find anything. What else would you think the problem is? Ive taken it to 3 different mechanics now and not a one can figure it out! Im tired of dumping money into it now. So I took it to see what I could figure out. Any suggestions? Sorry for the repeat I guess I hit submit twice lol
saturnspeed_12
03-20-2006, 05:43 PM
what you need to do is check for spark and fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure.
check for spark, you can pull the plug out stick it back in the wire, ground the spark plugs body (lay the threaded part on metal) and crank it. i dont like when people do the screwdriver to metal spark test, it can cause issues.
check for injector pulse, pull and injector connector off, use a test light (little pen looking thing with a little light on it, needle tip, and a wire with a small aligator clamp on the end). stick a paper clip in 1 terminal, put the clamp on the paper clip, and then stick the test light probe into the other terminal. crank the car and see if the light goes on and off like its pulsating.
check for fuel pressure, on the fuel line going up to the rail, there is a test port. uncap it and press in on the nipple and see if fuel shots out. if so you got pressure (but doesnt tell if its enough).
now about your question to where the ignition module is, its located beneath the coils on the trans housing. the coils lay right on top of it.
check for spark, you can pull the plug out stick it back in the wire, ground the spark plugs body (lay the threaded part on metal) and crank it. i dont like when people do the screwdriver to metal spark test, it can cause issues.
check for injector pulse, pull and injector connector off, use a test light (little pen looking thing with a little light on it, needle tip, and a wire with a small aligator clamp on the end). stick a paper clip in 1 terminal, put the clamp on the paper clip, and then stick the test light probe into the other terminal. crank the car and see if the light goes on and off like its pulsating.
check for fuel pressure, on the fuel line going up to the rail, there is a test port. uncap it and press in on the nipple and see if fuel shots out. if so you got pressure (but doesnt tell if its enough).
now about your question to where the ignition module is, its located beneath the coils on the trans housing. the coils lay right on top of it.
melody2127
03-23-2006, 02:32 PM
there is no spark coming from either coil, had the fuel pump replaced last year, and seems to be getting fuel.. we replaced the ignition control moduel.. and still no change :shakehead
Ben311
03-25-2006, 11:45 AM
99 sc2 has lost all power. It wont start or jump and has a new battery.
saturnspeed_12
03-28-2006, 04:23 PM
so have you checked the fuses and relays under the hood? a relay can cause a car to sometimes start and then just completely go out. you are also going to have to check about under the hood for good grounds.
i would also check about that crank sensor again.
i would also check about that crank sensor again.
melody2127
03-28-2006, 10:11 PM
How do I test the crank sensor? Can I use a volt meter? I used a OBD1 scanner and it came back with no codes! Shouldnt that read if something is wrong with the sensor?
saturnspeed_12
03-29-2006, 12:40 PM
no. it can go without throwing the code. i think with the crank sensor, the car has to be running and if the crank sensor is out of range, then the code is stored. it could have simple just decided to quite working.
you can check it as long as your voltmeter can also check resistances (ohms). the crank sensor should be within 700-900 ohms. you check it by removing the connector, and probe both terminals on it.
now you can check for voltage to the ignition module by backprobing (stick a thin wire like a paper clip) the connector at the white wire. with the key on there should be like 1 volt or less. with the key off, there should be a resistance of i think 200 or more ohms.
have you checked primary and secondary resistance on the coils? also where did you buy the ignition module and crank sensor?
you can check it as long as your voltmeter can also check resistances (ohms). the crank sensor should be within 700-900 ohms. you check it by removing the connector, and probe both terminals on it.
now you can check for voltage to the ignition module by backprobing (stick a thin wire like a paper clip) the connector at the white wire. with the key on there should be like 1 volt or less. with the key off, there should be a resistance of i think 200 or more ohms.
have you checked primary and secondary resistance on the coils? also where did you buy the ignition module and crank sensor?
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