Faster than your eclipse

Hi,
I have had my 1996 eclipse gst for about 5 months now. I have finally decided to get ready to start massivaly modifying it. I would like to get roughly 450-500hp. I am trying to be as cost efficient as possible. Looking to get the best parts(HP gain) for the best cost. This car has been and will contrinue being my weekend car only. So I would still like to be able to drive it around the city normally (no 1000cc injectors):P
Here is my current list of mods that I have selected to reach my goal in HP:

Stage 1: Power
- Injen Intake pipe
- Apexi EL series boost gauge
- HKS Racing BOV Type-II
- TurboXS Dual stage boost controller
- Tanabe Ultra medalion exhuast system
- Straight pipe
- VRS 3" O2 Eliminator downpipe
- Shearer Motorsports T3 Exhaust Manafold
- Forced Performance FP30 3" O2 housing
- HKS Fuel pump
- Diamond Star Specialties 2G Upper Intercooler Pipe
- Precision Turbo Engineering GT turbo

Stage 1: Drivetrain
- Clutch Masters Kevlar Clutch
- B&M short shifter
- Cusco Center LSD

Stage 2: Power
- G-Reddy e-01
- Apexi EL series warning meters gauges
- GReddy E-manage Ultimate
- AEM EMS
- Sieman Deka fuel injectors
- Forced Performance Front Mounter Intercooler Kit

Stage 2: Drivetrain
- Clutch Masters Lightened Flywheel

Handling:
- RM Racing Rear swaybar
-Stillen Upper front strut bar
- Tein type SS Coil Overs
-Tein EDFC suspension controller
- Rotara big brake kit

PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHICH PARTS I CAN DROP OR ADD TO REACH MY ECLIPSE MAX POTENTIAL.

You want 500hp with those mods?

"500hp" and "cost efficient" dont go together. You need to talk to some shops and see just how much power that is. I dont know about the engine, but Im pretty sure you need internals for that amount of power.

Start off with an easier goal such as 300hp. Then you can upgrade. I think your car tops out around 400-450 (?) before you need internals.

Yeah, your car will be lucky to see 450hp before you throw a rod or something... Your gonna have to build your internals for the kind of power you want. Do you even realize how much power 500hp is? My friend has about 550hp and its just ridiculous for the street. I definetly agree with Alphalano's with setting lower power goals first like 300hp.

I agree with all of you...that is why the stages are broken up into 2 parts ....stage 1 (300HP) and stage 2(400hp)....I would like to know what else i can do to get my horsepower up to 500ish

I am definitely not doing them all in one shot...or else id explode into a million pieces

Well nitrous is always a quick way to add power. Although my car will never see nitrous...unless it is being sprayed onto my fmic.

Other than building the motor from the ground up this is what i think. The GT turbos are amazing I have a GT30R and love it, it has serious lag but once it hits its range it boosts hard. Get a full 3in exhaust. Look into the slowboyracing big fmic, it is huge with great flow and has the shortest pipe route. Get a maf translator so you can move the maf out of the intake to open it up. Don't worry about intake pipes because in the high power range you will most likley need something made for your car and look into intake manifolds. (Magnus) You will need a fuel pressure regulator. You won't need the greddy electronics crap with the ems. With 500hp you will probably break you tranny pretty quick so look into getting that built. Also, quaife has the best lsd around for a gst. Once you have a built motor it is just plugging on the rest but if you are going right for 500hp build the motor first so you don't waste time and materials taking everything off.

Stage 2: Power
- G-Reddy e-01
- Apexi EL series warning meters gauges
- GReddy E-manage Ultimate
- AEM EMS
- Sieman Deka fuel injectors
- Forced Performance Front Mounter Intercooler Kit

First off, having an emanage and aem ems would be redundant. If you want a streetable car don't go for either of those go for dsmlink (dsmlink.com). Also, the profec e-01 is basically a $500 boost controller (unless you have an emanage but ten you're up to $1000, dsmlink is on $600). Don't go for a "brand" name intercooler you can get a core on ebay for under $200, many people use these to very high hp and are just as good as the ones that cost 4 times as much!!!

Well for one your going to need some good tuning, alot of money, and another car to drive while yours is being worked on. Its not really something you can just do on your own, unless you have a lot of experience. But at least you asked here before wasting a ton of money :wink:

Before you start anything, really, you should do a thorough tune up. check compression and leakdown. replace water pump, oil pump, HG, all filters. probably upgrade your fuel supply. get your fuel management set up. make sure your steering and suspension is ok. and your transmission. Youll probably want a better ignition, alternator, battery, maybe do the big 3 wires. take out your a/c probably.

Do you understand how much there is to it?

Here is what I have done so far:
Modification List:
Engine and Tranny: new at 54000
2G 4G63 Block bored .040 over
New Transmission
ACT 2600 Clutch
Polyurethane Motor Mounts
est. 9.2:1 compression
Turbo Garret GT30R
2.4L 7-bolt Forged Crank
3” downpipe
Wiseco forged pistons with anti-friction coated skirts
Wiseco chrome-moly rings
Crower forged rods
Toda main and crank bearings
ARP Main and Head studs
HKS 272 intake 264 exhaust cams
Crower titanium valve springs and retainers
3g lifters
Stainless Steel valves
Ported 2g Intake Manifold
Metal head gasket
Turbonetics Cast exhaust turbo manfold
Deltagate wastegate with external dump
Greddy FMIC
Greddy Type-S BOV
AEM adjustable cam gears
Unorthodox pulleys
Tanabe 3" Race Medallion Exhaust
High volume oil pump
Walbro 255LPH High Pressure Fuel Pump
780cc injectors
Megan Racing fuel pressure regulator
Electronics:
Apexi SAFC-II Black
Greddy Profec-B Boost Controller
Greddy Remote Arming Switch
Greddy Turbo Timer
Greddy and Apexi Boost and EGT Gauges
MAF translator with 3” GM MAF

Suspension:
Rear Strut Bar
Tokicko 5-way adjustable shocks
Tein Springs
Nitto 555 Drag Radials (not installed)
Interior:
Short shifter
Kenwood CD Player w/ Equalizer

Don't mess around with a 7 bolt if your gonna build a race motor. Swap it for a 6 bolt and wire up your CAS to work in a 2g.

It doesn't have to cost as much as you think. It will be expensive though, if you buy a $300 boost controller rather than a one for $12-45, a $1000+ big name exhaust, a $200 Injen intake rather than a $50 ebay copy, a $1000 intercooler rather than a <$150 ebay one, and I'm guessing the HKS pump is a lot more than the $100 Wablro one, etc, etc.

With all due respect, your list reads like a ricer list. It screams ricer. You've done some homework, but you're not there yet. Most of your mods are overpriced, some of them are redundant.

Your turbo is going to dictate the upper limit of your hp potential. I'm not sure which of the gt series you're planning on buying. When I looked online there were multiple. Either big, or small, for sake of my explanation here. If it's too small, you're not making enough power. If it's too large, and since I don't see any tuning in your initial mods list, you're killing your car. If you're serious, I think strokage is in your future. The internals could be done then anyway.

Buying the mods without the knowledge of how to go fast is wasting your money. Building a fast car takes time to learn. For now, I'd change your mods list to something like this...

Power:
Dejon intake, not Injen. Or HD.
Whichever gauge you like
Greddy or 1g bov.
HD boost controller, or a ball and spring cheapo.
...and so on.

Your handling list isn't going to garner you hp. IMO, with a third the money you could have a much better setup.

The size of the injectors isn't necessarily indicitive of how streetable the car is. And so on. Check the sticky that says "read before posting," and peep the upgrade path on www.dsmtuners.com. Good luck.

Edit>> "Faster than your eclipse." If this hadn't been the title I might have been nicer. I don't know. Wait until you have a slip before you talk smack. You're probably jk, but still, whatevs.

Read this thread to see how cheap it can be done: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=512643

1. If you're really serious you might as well tear into your motor now and get it done, you will need forged pistons, rods ect
2. you will have to have stronger valve springs for those cams and you might as well have it ported and oversized valves at the same time
3.Names dont mean everything
4. Do you have any idea what 500fwhp would be like?
This is what I would run if I wanted those numbers
built 4g64 block
1g 4g63 head, ported
comp cams(cant remember the number)
oversized valves
titanium retianers
stainless springs
magnus IM
FMIC obviously
GT35R
1200cc injectors(go big or go home:lol:)
DSMlink
shep stage 4 tranny(possibly dox box but probably not)
tial 44mm external gate
HKS SSQV or Type-r
full 3 or 3.5 inch exhaust
quaif lsd
probably need to upgrade the axels
DNP manifold
walbro 255
Aeromotive AFPR
I'm probably forgetting something but you get the point, you probably could save alot of money by getting used parts and hitting up ebay and like making the exhaust yourself and such

I'm with gsx_hooptie, you dont sound like you know what you are talking about. For example, did you notice how you doubled up stuff on your current mod list and wanted mod list? Arent 780's pretty big for the SAFC? If you truely had that much work done on your car, you'd know how to take it to 500hp. Heres my 500hp suggestions.
- DSMlink should be one of your first mods so you can tune it and monitor the engine.
- Dont F around with a 7 bolt, drop in a 6 bolt and stoke the bitch.
- I'd get a PTE 6135 (I think was the number) turbo, its dual ball bearing 60-1 rated to a little over 500 hp and its only $850 on SBR.
- Dont cut corners and do it right.

upgrade that turbo buddy