bleeding power steering-98 windstar

I have read in several posts that you need to bleed the air out of the power steering to eliminate the noise when turning. A power steering hose broke so I had to replace it and put new fluid in. It turns normally now but wakes up the neighborhood when it does because of loud noises. Can somebody please let me know how to bleed the air out? Thanks.

1. Make sure that the fluid level is in the correct fill range on the power steering resevoir dip stick....place cap back onto the resevoir.

2. Start engine. With engine at idle, turn the steering wheel from limit stop to limit stop, several times, not resting against the limit stop.

3. Check fluid level to make sure that it is still in the correct fill range.
Add fluid, if needed. Do not over fill.

4. If there are bubbles visible in the fluid, wait a while for them to come up to the surface. Place cap back onto overflow resevoir.
Then repeat step #2.
You want to wait for the bubbles to come to the surface, because if you do not, you will only be recirculating the air through the system.

NOTE: Make sure that you use the correct fluid for your year.
My '96 calls for a "Type F" Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). I use Redline Power Steering Fluid, which meets the FORD specification number in my owner's manual.
This is a synthetic, which will give you better heat tolerance and cold flow.
Newer windstars call for a Mercon rated ATF. Mobil 1 ATF is a great fluid as it is also synthetic.

My 98 3.8L calls for Ford spec M2-C33-F which is ATF type F. I used Walmart Super Tech - look for the spec on the label.

Thanks a lot for the advice. Wiswind's tip worked. I used a generic fluid from the shelf. I'll keep doug's specs in mind.

Thanks guys.

You do NOT want to use generic "Power Steering Fluid" in the windstar.
The windstar calls for Automatic Transmission Fluid ( ATF ).
It will be either a "type F" ATF, or Mercon ATF, depending on the model year.

Thanks again wiswind. I guess the confusion is in the terminology. I drove the store associate nuts when I asked for transmission fluid for use in power steering. The power steering section in the store didn't have type F. Of course I found it in the "transmission section."

I'll update you after I drain my old fluid out (which I also need to figure out), put the new ATF and bleed the system again.

You do NOT want to use generic "Power Steering Fluid" in the windstar.
The windstar calls for Automatic Transmission Fluid ( ATF ).
It will be either a "type F" ATF, or Mercon ATF, depending on the model year.

Basically, flushing ps fluid....

Find the return hose to the pump. Disconnect and add some hose (clear is better) to the return hose. Put clear hose in gallon+ bucket. Open ps reservoir. Open 3 or more quarts of proper fluid. Have someone start it up and turn steering wheel (don't rest against stops) while you pour fluid to compensate for the old fluid pouring into bucket. Be fast in pouring to keep up - don't let resevoir level drop enough that air gets in. Be ready to yell stop engine if you can't keep up. When clear return hose starts pumping clear red ATF, you're done.

Another way is fluid exchange...

Turkey baster out the resevoir fluid - ~6oz. Refill and drive 1/2 mile, turning alot. Repeat procedure ~ 8-10 times till it looks like fairly new red ATF.

Most of us get around to flushing that power steering sooner or later. I found a 1 gallon gasoline container at Walmart for $1.19. I intended to fill this with Mercron transmission fluid to flush my 2000 with 120,000 miles on it. This little can will only fill until the level in the tank comes up and covers the filler tube of the gas can and it stops the flow. I intended and did put most of three quarts of fluid in it, stand it up on the lip of the power steering reservoir and put the return hose into a gallon jug to catch the old fluid. I did save a half quart of fluid to top up the reservoir after I finished flushing. The gas can filler stands up on the filler neck of the reservoir by itself. The filler nozzle wasn't quite long enough, and it would over fill so I inserted a copper plumbing fitting, a one half inch copper pipe coupler, inside the fill nozzle of the can and used a small hose clamp around the plastic of the filler nozzle to hold the coupler in place and prevent fluid leakage between the copper and plastic nozzle. This worked well.

I did examine that power steering reservoir and found that the screen in it appeared to be stopped up or nearly so. My 2000 has a reservoir that is separate from the pump. So, I removed it. You need to remove both hoses and one screw down at the bottom mounting bracket. It is 8 mm and you need long thin hands and it still takes a few minutes to get that screw loose. Then just lift the reservoir out. I used acitone and flushed and shook and drained that thing several times before I got most of that screen clean enough to put back in. I made sure that all of the cleaner was out of the reservoir and I then reinstalled the reservoir and attached the large hose which supplies fluid to the pump and used a small piece of hose with a small punch or nail in it to stop up the return fitting on the reservoir. I made the return hose longer by inserting a clear hose inside the return hose and put that into a one gallon jug to catch the old fluid much as the other people have talked about in their postings.

I then up ended my modified gas can with fluid in it into the reservoir and it sits up there securely and fills the reservoir up to the filler nozzle extension and waits for the level to drop. I started the engine and moved the steering wheel back and forth until the fluid running into the jug was clean fluid, about three quarts. The idea was that as the fluid was pumped out of the reservoir the remaining fluid in the can would keep the reservoir full. It did do this but not quite well enough to keep all of the air out of the system.

I reconnected the return hose to the reservoir, sopped up the spillage and topped up the reservoir with some of the fluid that I had saved. There was air in the system. I started the engine and moved the steering wheel back and forth and shut it down. The reservoir was full of small bubbles or foam that want to stay that way, until I inserted my finger into the reservoir and stirred foam and fluid with my finger. That broke the surface tension of the fluid in those bubbles and they disappeared. I fired it up for a few more seconds moving the steering wheel back and forth, shutdown, stir with my finger and repeated until all of the bubbles or foam was gone. I kept topping up the reservoir as the air was removed. After a half dozen cycles of this, the air was gone, the reservoir was full and my power steering noise was gone.

Here is why I added this to this forum. I would not be surprised that the reduced flow through that screen in the reservoir was as much or more responsible for the noise in the power steering as anything else.

My system of flushing this system is no better than the others posted here but it gives you another version of flushing and maybe an idea or two to make it easier for you. Good luck.

Jim

I had the same noisy p/s in my 95 sable (also have 98 windstar) and I could not get an extra person to help me out....I took it to the dealership and told them I wanted the P/S flushed.......$85.00 later it was quiet again......:naughty:

Thanks a lot for all the tips.

I did as dougand3 said using the fluid wiswind suggested. The windstar's steering is smooth and quiet now.

To do the flush without a helper....
You can just give the starter a quick touch...while turning the wheels just a bit. If the car starts, shut is off right away....and add more fluid to the resevoir. Doing this repeatedly will get the job done.

I'm getting ready to do the flush tomorrow to try and cure whining pump. I'm looking for some last minute input:

What fluid should I use for the 2000 Wstar? I'm figuring Mercon V synthetic.
How much fluid should I need?
Is the turkey baster method as effective as the line removal? I realize it is probably more time consuming, but I am trying to minimize messes.
thanks

Mercon V is a synthetic blend, I would use Mobil 1 it's a fully synthetic oil and will handle the heat much better.
The entire system holds about one quart, I would use about 2.5-3 quarts for the flush keeping some left over for the bleeding process.
I have not used the turkey baster method but I think the line removal is the more effective method because you'll be flushing out the entire system.