98 Windstar w/ 3.8L. Transmission Problems

Transmission problems in a Ford? Really?

I dumped my Sable after two transmissions (each at ~60K miles). My old '89 T-Bird starting having Transmission problems at ~120K.

I hate this car, electical problems, dome light, door-open indicator, speedo died, etc. It lost first gear at 60K and we got the transmission replaced under the extended warranty. Now, 60K miles later, the transmission has gone out altogether.

It happened on a cold, cold day. I started the car at work, drove 10 miles to the grocery store. Outsite temp is maybe -2 degrees (F). As I pull into the store parking lot, it felt like I was on ice. Lots of engine, little movement. A couple weeks earlier the check-engine light was intermittently coming on and off - it's been on solid for two weeks or so by this day. I've half learned to ignore it.

After fussing with it, I realize that it's the transmission not grabbing. I rev it up, it grabs for a moment and I pull into a space.

After coming out, maybe 10 minutes later, it grabs again if I rev it and I stutter my way to the house - maybe three blocks.

Now it won't move at all, forward or reverse, any gear setting. It's like it's stuck in neutral. I've got two ideas, either the torque converter or the tranmission pump.

So - I need a cheap way out of this - I don't have a lot of money to throw at this but I need the car. The salvage yard has a lot of Taurus models with 3.8 L engines, but no 1998 models, either Taurus or Windstars.

I'm not very automotive savvy - I'm a computer geek for a living - but I've got some talented friends with a large garage & air tools (one's an auto painter, the other an off-road hobbyist). We're assuming that this is something we might be able to do ourselves.

So - am I full of it thinking I can do this? Is there a good way to cross-reference this tranmission to other model vehicles and find a way to either pull the entire tranmission or just a torque converter?

Diagnostically, am I on the right track? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks - B

Hello

Did you check the fluid level? How many miles on the van? The salvage yard should be able to tell you what will cross references for your van. Did you ask them? I take it you did because you said they didn't have a trannie for a 98. How often have you changed the fluid in this trannie? Do you pull with this van?

Yes changing a trannie out is a couple day do able task. Especially with a large shop with air tools, and willing friends. (I'm sure they may need some computer help some day) I just changed mine in my 97 LeSabre. I lost everything above 2nd gear and no reverse.

Regards

Dan

Hello

Did you check the fluid level? How many miles on the van? The salvage yard should be able to tell you what will cross references for your van. Did you ask them? I take it you did because you said they didn't have a trannie for a 98. How often have you changed the fluid in this trannie? Do you pull with this van?
...
Dan

Van has about 120K on it - we've never towed with it. Mostly it's around-town miles with the twice-yearly road trip (+/- 2500 miles).

This transmission has about 60 K miles on it. The fluid, too. This summer I fed it a quart of transmission conditioner. I forget the brand; Lucas, I think.

I checked the transmission fluid after it refused to move. It's clear, non-smokey & was on the stick. I stuck a quart in anyway, figuring it couldn't hurt. It didn't help.

The transmission isn't necessarily bad, it could be the VSS sensor or the neutral safety switch. I've heard that the neutral safety switch is a common thing to go bad.

TRS (Transmission Range Switch....AKA Neutral safety switch) is a common failure item, causes the transmission electronics to not know what gear you have selected.
It is cheap, and easy to replace.

The VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) is also cheap, but NOT easy to replace from what others have posted.
You can do a search on " VSS " in this forum, and read about that.

I am not big on additives to the transmission fluid. They can actually cause harm.
The chemistry of automotive fluids is pretty complex, and the Lucas may be good stuff....but the question is whether or not the chemistry of the additive will work with the fluid in the transaxle.
You can read more about that on www.bobistheoilguy.com in the additives section.

You also do NOT want to overfill the transmission.

The way the car was grabbing at high revs (briefly) I suggested to my friends that if this car had a failing centrifigal clutch, this would be the symptom I'd expect.

Is the VSS or Neutral Safety switch failing consistent with this symptom?

I belive that there is no problem with sensors....
It´s my hobby (in Germany) to repair windstar trannys

There is a Problem with the forward clutch! The wave spring under the clutch-pack is broken up to 4 pieces.

In this case no constant first and no back gear - the rest works fine.

Nice Pictures: http://knowhow.windstar-club.de/index.php/Getriebedemontage

Scholle

Great photos! Good looking shop!

Please stick around, you're going to be a great help!

I wouldn't (personally) get too excited about dropping the transmission without performing some diagnosis first. That's tantamount to having the dentist perform a root canal when all you really wanted was a cleaning. I guess we form Saxony look at things differently, though.

Test the line pressure at the front test port. Line pressure should be about 90 PSIG at idle in any range. Check the pressure at the top rear port with the range selector in LOW. There should be zero pressure in all ranges, and 35-40 PSIG in LOW or 1. That will indicate if there is a pump problem, and should reveal some indication about the condition of the pressure modulation and manual valves.

I'd tell you to dump that POS and bolt in a 4L65E, but they don't fit (unfortunately). Actually, the transmission is not a bad assembly, but like many other things, once they've been ignored too long, they start having trouble. They seem to have their share of electrical and connection troubles, too.

Another thing you can do is start the engine, then disconnect the neutral safety /TRS switch. This will force full manual (hydraulic) mode of the transmission, should raise line pressure to max, and should operate the transmission through all ranges except OD and TCC lockup.

(Blue Bowtie,

Are you saying you now live in Saxony? Close to the Elbe?)

OK, (to anyone) I have a tranny question: I have recently acquired a "studder" or "shudder" in low gear. In fact, recently I had a single event of no forward gears ... then I went in reverse for a few feet,... after that the forward gears were OK again (except for the, now persistent, shudder).

I haven't begun to analyze/fix this problem. What would make a good list of things to do? I don't have a pressure tester.

('99 SEL. 190k miles. The tranny has been maintained fairly well. The fluid runs clean, and there is little blackness in the pan to be wiped out at each fluid change.)

Another thing you can do is start the engine, then disconnect the neutral safety /TRS switch. This will force full manual (hydraulic) mode of the transmission, should raise line pressure to max, and should operate the transmission through all ranges except OD and TCC lockup.

On a side note (as with the problem I am having with MY '95 Windstar....) When you DO unplug this, and there is NO CHANGE in the symptoms whatsoever...
(symptoms: all gears shown on column work; 3'rd &4th do not- basically, it refuses to 'auto' shift. When problem started, OD light flashed, then stayed constant; shudders, hard shifts, etc... then total failure to go into ANY gear. REPLACED: filter/fluid. Fluid horrendous. (metal shavings, no chunks)- ran great for 24 hours. Started all symptoms again. REPLACED (again) filter/fluid. Now, works fine... except for 3rd & 4th gear as noted above. Replaced TRS, NO CHANGE)
....What should be checked next?