94 Blazer Gasket Issues

94 Blazer 4.3L V6 replacing head gaskets.. I've taken both the upper and lower intake manifold off.. when I removed the lower manifold the gasket was very sponge like and easily came apart.. is that normal?? Also there is orange fluid (oil mixed with coolant/water) is that necessary to clean out?

Sorry this is my first time doing this. :)

Why are you replacing the head gaskets?
Did you not check for head gasket leakage before tearing it down?
Take a close look at the intake gaskets and ask yourself if they could be leaking coolabnt in the oil.
If you have coolant in the oil you had better change the oil and filter when you get it back together. Then start it up and warm up engine and change the oil and filter again before driving it. And then after you drive it some change the stuff again.
You rod and main and cam bearings will live longer.
MT

Why are you replacing the head gaskets?
Did you not check for head gasket leakage before tearing it down?
Take a close look at the intake gaskets and ask yourself if they could be leaking coolabnt in the oil.
If you have coolant in the oil you had better change the oil and filter when you get it back together. Then start it up and warm up engine and change the oil and filter again before driving it. And then after you drive it some change the stuff again.
You rod and main and cam bearings will live longer.
MT
MT, he posted a earlier thread http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=507631 that he suspects a blown head gasket.

yesimsteve, It diffently sounds like its your lower intake gasket that was leaking. Did you ever take a compression test on your cylinder? What were the readings? One more thing. Try and get your posting on one thread for the same thing. It makes it easier when we can see everything in one place. Let us know where your at.

MT, he posted a earlier thread http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=507631 that he suspects a blown head gasket.

yesimsteve, It diffently sounds like its your lower intake gasket that was leaking. Did you ever take a compression test on your cylinder? What were the readings? One more thing. Try and get your posting on one thread for the same thing. It makes it easier when we can see everything in one place. Let us know where your at.

OK Now I see says the blind man.
Someone jumped into this project without checking it out first.
And that leaves us with a lot of unanswered questions.
MT

Sorry about the dual posting.. anyways I had a mechanic verify that it was the head gaskets.. i didnt do a compression test myself though. From looking at the lower intake gaskets they look like they were definately leaking. Maybe the mechanic was wrong?? what should I do? I should have done the compression tests myself I guess.. :banghead:

The thing is I had no way to get to the autoparts store, i had no compression gauge.. but I did have all the gaskets and tools to start the job.. and the mechanic said it definately was the head gaskets.. so i just went to it!

Sorry about the dual posting.. anyways I had a mechanic verify that it was the head gaskets.. i didnt do a compression test myself though. From looking at the lower intake gaskets they look like they were definately leaking. Maybe the mechanic was wrong?? what should I do? I should have done the compression tests myself I guess.. :banghead:

The thing is I had no way to get to the autoparts store, i had no compression gauge.. but I did have all the gaskets and tools to start the job.. and the mechanic said it definately was the head gaskets.. so i just went to it!
Is there away you can contact the mechanic and ask him if he did a compression test and what was the readings. If you can't or if he did take the test. Did you have a 75 / 25 percent chance that its your lower intake gasket. I would just go ahead and replace the lower intake gasket. From everything you have givin us leans towards it. The compression test would of confirmed it for sure. Good luck and let us know how your doing...........

Is there away you can contact the mechanic and ask him if he did a compression test and what was the readings. If you can't or if he did take the test. Did you have a 75 / 25 percent chance that its your lower intake gasket. I would just go ahead and replace the lower intake gasket. From everything you have givin us leans towards it. The compression test would of confirmed it for sure. Good luck and let us know how your doing...........

Thanks for the quick response! I contacted the mechanic and he says his assistant ran the compression tests and is not in today... After talking with him I have a feeling they didnt run any compression tests.

Gabe, since I am about halfway to the heads and have the entire gasket set.. should I continue?? I mean since it did overheat isnt there a chance it could have damaged the heads? I would seriously like to replace the lower intake and then just put it back together... but I would like to fix this once and for all!

Thanks.

Thanks for the quick response! I contacted the mechanic and he says his assistant ran the compression tests and is not in today... After talking with him I have a feeling they didnt run any compression tests.

Gabe, since I am about halfway to the heads and have the entire gasket set.. should I continue?? I mean since it did overheat isnt there a chance it could have damaged the heads? I would seriously like to replace the lower intake and then just put it back together... but I would like to fix this once and for all!

Thanks.
I'd would still do a compression test first before removing the heads. Pull the fuse that provide power to your fuel pump. Hook up your battery and perform your compression test. Pull you belt off so your water pump won't shoot water into your motor. Its going to get alittle messy with the intake off, but you can clean you motor after your done. One more thing. Before you start cranking your motor. Make sure that there isn't any debrie in the oil gallies and lifters. I would use a shop vacuum clear and suck up all that junk that fell in when you removed your intake. If your readings are all about the same. Then I would just complete the lower intake gasket replacement and close up.

I'd would still do a compression test first before removing the heads. Pull the fuse that provide power to your fuel pump. Hook up your battery and perform your compression test. Pull you belt off so your water pump won't shoot water into your motor. Its going to get alittle messy with the intake off, but you can clean you motor after your done. One more thing. Before you start cranking your motor. Make sure that there isn't any debrie in the oil gallies and lifters. I would use a shop vacuum clear and suck up all that junk that fell in when you removed your intake. If your readings are all about the same. Then I would just complete the lower intake gasket replacement and close up.

Thanks for your help Gabe.. well first off I didnt know I could do a compression test with the intake off..basically I dont have a compression gauge and I dont want to tow it to a mechanic. I already bought the entire gasket set.. I think im just gonna go for it. I'll keep you posted.. im probably gonna have more questions.

OK Good Luck.

Hey Gabe (or anybody else)... I was told by a mechanic that a compression test wouldnt necessarily tell me if I had a bad head gasket. I explained to him all my symptoms and he thought it was the lower intake gasket....but then he said to remove the spark plugs and check to see if one is white & wet. So I removed the spark plugs and sure enough.. one of them is white & wet. The mechanic said this would confirm the head gasket is bad. Do you guys agree with the mechanic?

Anyways, so then removing the exhaust pipe from the manifold my book is pretty unclear on what to do.. if i go under the car I see 3 bolts on the right and left side.. they have springs around them.. are these the bolts I want to take off?

Thanks.

Hey Gabe (or anybody else)... I was told by a mechanic that a compression test wouldnt necessarily tell me if I had a bad head gasket. I explained to him all my symptoms and he thought it was the lower intake gasket....but then he said to remove the spark plugs and check to see if one is white & wet. So I removed the spark plugs and sure enough.. one of them is white & wet. The mechanic said this would confirm the head gasket is bad. Do you guys agree with the mechanic?

Anyways, so then removing the exhaust pipe from the manifold my book is pretty unclear on what to do.. if i go under the car I see 3 bolts on the right and left side.. they have springs around them.. are these the bolts I want to take off?

Thanks.
Yea, that could be a indicator of a leaking head gasket. I take it that you are going to pull the heads and take it to a machine shop for them to make the surface true again.
Yes, that the bolts that connect the exhaust manifold to the pipes. If your have springs on them your lucky. My bolts wear tact welded and I needed to use a impact gun to break them free.

Ok.. I had no trouble (except for a couple stubborn bolts) taking off the right exhaust manifold.. but im having a little trouble taking off the left..

I removed the rear alternator bracket on the second bolt.. but on the first bolt there is a metal bracket going underneath the car.. i think it might have something to do with the power steering?

How do I remove this?

Thanks

Ok.. I had no trouble (except for a couple stubborn bolts) taking off the right exhaust manifold.. but im having a little trouble taking off the left..

I removed the rear alternator bracket on the second bolt.. but on the first bolt there is a metal bracket going underneath the car.. i think it might have something to do with the power steering?

How do I remove this?

Thanks
OK, you got 3 bolts that hold your alternator down. The top bolts goes to a bracket that bolts too the exhaust manifold. The 2 lower bolts of the alternator go directly to the alternator / power steering pump bracket. Those should be easy to remove. Now you'll need to remove the bolts holding the alternator / power steering pump bracket. To do that need to remove the bolts that is holding the pump to the bracket which is located under the power steering pump pully. So, you'll need a power sterring pump pully puller to remover the power sterring pump pully to remover the bolts. Once you have completed that. You'll be able to get to the alternator / power steering pump bracket to remove the bolts from the bracket, the bracket will be able to be removed and you'll be able to remove your head. Good Luck......

OK, you got 3 bolts that hold your alternator down. The top bolts goes to a bracket that bolts too the exhaust manifold. The 2 lower bolts of the alternator go directly to the alternator / power steering pump bracket. Those should be easy to remove. Now you'll need to remove the bolts holding the alternator / power steering pump bracket. To do that need to remove the bolts that is holding the pump to the bracket which is located under the power steering pump pully. So, you'll need a power sterring pump pully puller to remover the power sterring pump pully to remover the bolts. Once you have completed that. You'll be able to get to the alternator / power steering pump bracket to remove the bolts from the bracket, the bracket will be able to be removed and you'll be able to remove your head. Good Luck......

damn that power steering pump pulley is a special order item at all the local auto stores.. thanks for the help Gabe.

So I was removing my alternator and well the ring holding the bolt broke:

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b177/yesimsteve/broken.jpg

Any suggestions on how to fix this?? could I use epoxy or something like that? Thanks

You could take and have it welded. I doubt expoy would hold for long.

You could try and get it welded or check out your local junk yard and see if you can pickup a whole new bracket and just replace it.

I have my left exhaust manifold removed.. but its suck inside the car. There is a circular piece just above the exhaust manifold but below the valve covers that is blocking me from removing it. It had a white electrical connection attached to it that I removed by squeezing and pulling it off. It kinda looks like a big spark plug.

do I need to remove this?? and how?

I have my left exhaust manifold removed.. but its suck inside the car. There is a circular piece just above the exhaust manifold but below the valve covers that is blocking me from removing it. It had a white electrical connection attached to it that I removed by squeezing and pulling it off. It kinda looks like a big spark plug.

do I need to remove this?? and how?
Yes you need to remove it. Its a Temp. Sensor. I can't remember what size deep well socket it is, but when you remove it. You will have Anti-Freeze running out.

Yes you need to remove it. Its a Temp. Sensor. I can't remember what size deep well socket it is, but when you remove it. You will have Anti-Freeze running out.

yea its bigger than any socket i currently have.. ok after i remove that then hopefully it should come out... man i hope its easier putting back in.

yea its bigger than any socket i currently have.. ok after i remove that then hopefully it should come out... man i hope its easier putting back in.
Putting it back together should be easier as long as you have bag / tag your bolts and wiring that you remove. Sounds like your coming along just fine. Hang in there not to much futher.

Putting it back together should be easier as long as you have bag / tag your bolts and wiring that you remove. Sounds like your coming along just fine. Hang in there not to much futher.

I have labeled and bagged everything! I'll let you know how it goes.. thanks!

ok so i just removed the valve covers and they are caked with yellow crap! it looks like cheesecake in there.. im assuming thats bad. What does that mean?

Secondly, what can I use to clean all these parts.. lacquer thinner? what do you guys use? thanks.

ok so i just removed the valve covers and they are caked with yellow crap! it looks like cheesecake in there.. im assuming thats bad. What does that mean?

Secondly, what can I use to clean all these parts.. lacquer thinner? what do you guys use? thanks.
Your Cheesecake is a combination of antifreeze/water and oil. You can clean it with engine cleaning solvent. I wouldn’t use Lacquer Thinner. It will eat up your valve guides, and that’s not a good thing.

Your Cheesecake is a combination of antifreeze/water and oil. You can clean it with engine cleaning solvent. I wouldn’t use Lacquer Thinner. It will eat up your valve guides, and that’s not a good thing.

Can an engine cleaning solvent be used anywhere in a engine?? Also I was told to clean the gasket surfaces with acetone or laquer thinner..

I just want everything clean when i put it back together.

Can an engine cleaning solvent be used anywhere in a engine?? Also I was told to clean the gasket surfaces with acetone or laquer thinner..

I just want everything clean when i put it back together.
Engine solvent can be applied anywhere in the engine. It doesn't take off paint like acetone & lacquer thinner does. Just make sure that when your done cleaning the heads your shoot it down with water. If the heads are going to sit for a day or so. It would be a good idea to pour oil over the springs, rockers, & valve guides. This will keep it from rusting. Cleaning of the gasket surface, I would use brake lean. It doesn't leave any residue. That will give a better seal on your gaskets.

Yes you need to remove it. Its a Temp. Sensor. I can't remember what size deep well socket it is, but when you remove it. You will have Anti-Freeze running out.

So this bolt is now offically stripped.. its edges were very rounded to begin with then i used an adjustable wrench on it.. bad idea. Any tricks on how to remove it? Its in a pretty tight spot.

Ok now in order to get to the right head gasket I need to remove the air conditioning compressor.. It says the system is under high pressure and I should discharge it.. can I do this myself?

There isnt anyway to keep the A/C charged while I get to the heads?

Yoiu can leave the air cond freon lines/hoses on the air cond compresser.
Just unbolt compresser from its mounting bracket and lay it over to the side.
Sometimes you can use a little wire to tie it or hold it over out of the road.
MT

Yoiu can leave the air cond freon lines/hoses on the air cond compresser.
Just unbolt compresser from its mounting bracket and lay it over to the side.
Sometimes you can use a little wire to tie it or hold it over out of the road.
MT

sweet! thanks for the quick response!

It looks like i need to remove the pulley part in order for the bolts to come out.. but I dont see how to remove it??? am i missing something obvious??

They are a tight fit.:grinyes: :lol:
Most of the time you can grind a little off of one side of the bolt head and slip it by the pulley.
Loosen all 3 bolts and just flaten on side of the bolt shoulder down to the flat side of the head of the bolt. and move the compresser around a little and they will come out. It works for me 99 out of a 100 times. :grinyes:
Another thing I do is take the fan shroud and fan blade off. That way you can sit on the rad and stick your feet down there or go all of the way in and stand up on the floor right in front of the engine and work away without having to bend over the fenders or hood. Sure saves my old back. :lol:
Good Luck
MT

It looks like i need to remove the pulley part in order for the bolts to come out.. but I dont see how to remove it??? am i missing something obvious??
Those bolts can be a problem. MT got the right idea. Alot a wiggling and a lot of swearing and there you got it. Hang in there.........

Those bolts can be a problem. MT got the right idea. Alot a wiggling and a lot of swearing and there you got it. Hang in there.........

I got those bolts out using MT's advice! Thanks!

Now Im trying to remove the fan and there is 1 bolt on the fan that WILL NOT come loose.. ive been working on it for like 2 hours! Its the last bolt holding the fan in.. all of the other bolts came out easily! Is it normal for one of the bolts to be so tight? almost welded.

Its tuff because you gotta hold the fan pulley while using a combination wrench.. any tricks to get this off?

I got those bolts out using MT's advice! Thanks!

Now Im trying to remove the fan and there is 1 bolt on the fan that WILL NOT come loose.. ive been working on it for like 2 hours! Its the last bolt holding the fan in.. all of the other bolts came out easily! Is it normal for one of the bolts to be so tight? almost welded.

Its tuff because you gotta hold the fan pulley while using a combination wrench.. any tricks to get this off?
Try using some penetrating oil on the stuck bolt first. Put 2 bolts back in the fan and tighten them down half way. Use a long breaker screwdriver and place it between the bolts so you can lock the fan from moving. Then with your open end, Try placing a pipe over the back side. I use a ¾ EMT Conduit on my box wrenches, when I need to get more leverage. This will give you more leverage in cracking that bolt free.

Try using some penetrating oil on the stuck bolt first. Put 2 bolts back in the fan and tighten them down half way. Use a long breaker screwdriver and place it between the bolts so you can lock the fan from moving. Then with your open end, Try placing a pipe over the back side. I use a ¾ EMT Conduit on my box wrenches, when I need to get more leverage. This will give you more leverage in cracking that bolt free.

Yeah my friend came over with Kroil Oil.. wow that stuff works good! We then just took a pipe wrench to the O2 sensor I was having so much trouble with. Man that thing was on there!

When i put my head bolts back in is there some kind of oil/sealer i should be applying to my bolts? what about the other intake bolts?

You might consider using new head bolts.
The last set of new head bolts I got already had some kind of sealer on them.
Teflon bolt thread sealer works good on intake bolts.
MT

You might consider using new head bolts.
The last set of new head bolts I got already had some kind of sealer on them.
Teflon bolt thread sealer works good on intake bolts.
MT

yes i have new headbolts on my list of things to buy. thanks

You should lube the threads of the head bolts to get a true torque reading. If you have some with a subtance already on them, you should be good. I usually buff the old ones clean, and apply assembly lube to the threads. Sealing them is generally not an issue.

So i removed my first lower head bolt.. clean coolant came out.. does that mean anything? should it be dirty if the gasket was bad?

So i removed my first lower head bolt.. clean coolant came out.. does that mean anything? should it be dirty if the gasket was bad?
That is normal. Check to see your head gasket if there is any breakage between the cylinders. You would see its wet or discolored from the rest of the gasket.

You should lube the threads of the head bolts to get a true torque reading. If you have some with a subtance already on them, you should be good. I usually buff the old ones clean, and apply assembly lube to the threads. Sealing them is generally not an issue.

Definitly use sealant and do not use assembly lube on these head bolts. They thread through into coolant passages as you can see. They will leak if you follow hitechs recommendations.
Read the manual!!! that way you are not trusting your engine to a bunch (me included) of annonamous "experts".

Well, based on about 20 years of experience - Chevy Master Tech - ASE Master, Engine Rebuilder for Ford, Chevy and Pontiac - and NEVER sealing head bolts on a smallblock, and NEVER had one come back leaking, I would say I was pretty accurate. Other engines? Yes, they need sealant. Some engine, never reuse the head bolts. But that does not apply to smallblocks. Just that simple.

To say that it will leak without sealant is pretty far fetched.

I will say that I have seen ONE, in 20 years, spring a coolant leak around a head bolt. Wasn't my job (meaning is wasn't in my stall) and I don't recall what the deal was with that one. Never been an issue.

yes i have new headbolts on my list of things to buy. thanks
I think new felpro headbolts and some others may already have sealer on them.
When you get your bolts look and see .
If not permatex thread sealant with teflon is good and GM makes a head bolt sealant.
MT

Well, based on about 20 years of experience - Chevy Master Tech - ASE Master, Engine Rebuilder for Ford, Chevy and Pontiac - and NEVER sealing head bolts on a smallblock, and NEVER had one come back leaking, I would say I was pretty accurate. Other engines? Yes, they need sealant. Some engine, never reuse the head bolts. But that does not apply to smallblocks. Just that simple.

To say that it will leak without sealant is pretty far fetched.

I will say that I have seen ONE, in 20 years, spring a coolant leak around a head bolt. Wasn't my job (meaning is wasn't in my stall) and I don't recall what the deal was with that one. Never been an issue.

Well if you want to go by years of experiance I have 50 years does that mean I know 2 and 1/2 as much as you do.
And yes I have worked for the big 3 car dealers line tech and also HD truck.
But that sometimes does not mean squat.
But one thing I have always been told and have saw used is sealant on chev small and big blocks.
Read your gasket instructions and read your repair manuals and why do new head bolts come with sealant on them and why does gm make sealant for them and put it on there new factory engines?
And you had better use new head bolts.
MT

Well, based on about 20 years of experience - Chevy Master Tech - ASE Master, Engine Rebuilder for Ford, Chevy and Pontiac - BLH BLAH BLAH

To say that it will leak without sealant is pretty far fetched.

I'm Very impressed by your dealership credentials. I assume by this that you are allowed access to the official GM manuals. Please post the GM recommendations for installing head bolt on a 1994 4.3L motor.
IMO The coolant seeping through the head bolts may not appear as an extenal leak. It May appear as a blown head gasket, or bearing failures due to coolant diluting the oil. But these are "new" billable problems so thats what the dealership wants.

You raise a couple of good points. Yes, we were (and probalby still are) driven to book hours. And no, we are not pushed to do jobs just to last the warranty period. When a job comes back, I do it for free. That kinda sucks for my hours that week. :) And do we all bypass stuff in the manual? Aboslutly YES. The manual is written as much to CYA (at a coprorate level) as to give information. Corporate attorney's have as much to do with what goes in there as do the design engineers. For instance, the '94 (I think) Camaro manual says in the A/C section concerning R134a that exit temperatures in the low 60's are acceptable and are performing up to factory specs. Try telling a customer that is sweating in his brand new ride that it is performing to specs and there is nothing you can do for it. No we most definitly and absolulty do not take the manual for gospel truth, because it isn't

As far as sealing/lubing the head bolts - sealing certainly isn't going to hurt anything, there is no problem in doing it of course. It simply isn't an issue on this particular motor. You are incorrect in your assumption that it would show up as an interal leak. The bolt holes in the head gasket are just as sealed as any other part of the head gasket. In theory, the only potential leak is externally between the bolt shaft and the outside of the hear, which would appear as leaking from under the head of the bolt.

Now, back to doing work just good enough to get by. Simply logic tells you that the failure rate would be much higher for such a technician. Personally, I won every Quality Repair Challenge that I particpated in. How was this done? Though the corporate offices polling my customers through questionaires regarding recent work. My CSI hovered around 98%. You can't achieve that high of CSI by doig work "just good enough" I know, everywhere I worked, there were guys who were content to do "just good enough" and they ALWAYS had remarkably low CSI numbers, and rarly stayed in one place very long. My last place of employment as a tech was 11 years.

And the CYA doesn't end at the service manual level either. I once saw 5 clutches out into a one-ton tow truck within two weeks. They never left the shop. They simply didn't work properly. Our parts manager was on the phone quite a bit over that one. The other end of that phone line kept insisting that we were the problem, the guys installing the parts. We finally had a field rep come out and told to go with an aftermarket pressure plate. Once we did, problem corrected. The parts rep swore up and down that there was no issue with this part, but we later found out that this issue was known corporate wide and was being hushed until it could be resolved. Sure enough, a TSB came out about a month later on it. From the corporate level, CYA comes ahead of all else. And sealing head bolts, or using new ones on a smallblock is CYA and nothing more.

Again, you raised good questions. I hope you don't take offense at my answering them from my persepctive. I certainly haven' meant any. :)

Gentlemen, Not to offend anybody, but. Lets not stray and compare years of experience. We all come from different parts of the world and encounter different situations. If you use a Teflon sealer you’ll get the best of both worlds. True torque and sealing.

Can anyone reccomened a site to order some new head bolts from?? I've went to my local auto parts stores and they dont have them in stock.. and they cant even special order them! their wherehouse is out of stock. Thanks!

10-4 on the years of experance. I got a little carryed away there.
Sorry about that.
And a big 10-4 on the teflon sealer on head bolt threads.
I checked the good book and on that year and model and engine it says to apply GM sealant 1052080 to head bolt threads.
Also the good book says to clean the head bolts holes. I always run a tap down them and if they are dirty or rusty.
But teflon sealer is just as good as the GM stuff and does come preinstalled on some aftermarket head bolts.
It will work on the intake bolts to. Some new GM intake bolts have it and some have a red sealer which may be teflon or some other sealer on the threads.
Also while we are on sealer on the intake manifold ends GM had a tsb out to use the GM whacker T black silcone on intake ends.
I have went to Import gray silcone sealant but that was my own choice.
Just make sure you use good stuff there.
Good luck MT
MT

ok i've kinda asked this questions before but I just want to make sure.. can i apply brake cleaner to the valve springs and everything(metal) in the engine? then after i apply the brake cleaner should i put oil? how fast does this stuff rust? thanks sorry for being such a newbie :rofl:

ok i've kinda asked this questions before but I just want to make sure.. can i apply brake cleaner to the valve springs and everything(metal) in the engine? then after i apply the brake cleaner should i put oil? how fast does this stuff rust? thanks sorry for being such a newbie :rofl:

Quote:
Originally Posted by yesimsteve
Can an engine cleaning solvent be used anywhere in a engine?? Also I was told to clean the gasket surfaces with acetone or laquer thinner..


Like I said in my previous reply:
Engine solvent can be applied anywhere in the engine. It doesn't take off paint like acetone & lacquer thinner does. Just make sure that when your done cleaning the heads your shoot it down with water. If the heads are going to sit for a day or so. It would be a good idea to pour oil over the springs, rockers, & valve guides. This will keep it from rusting. Cleaning of the gasket surface, I would use brake lean. It doesn't leave any residue. That will give a better seal on your gaskets.
__________________
1994 1st.Gen. S10 Blazer Tahoe
Aloha
Gabe

VERN
:)
Nice reply hi-tech Vern. Sorry for lumping you in with the stereotypical dealership machanics. I know some mechanics at a local GM dealership that each keep a 5-gallon bucket by their tool box for the "extra" bolts, screws, clips & brackets they have left over.They fill the bucket about once per year and they really don't care about anything except turning hours. I gather from your reply that you are not like them. Thanks for letting us know there are some good ones out there.
ps. I'm still gonna use sealant on my head bolts.

Hey guys.. its going pretty good almost all put back together now. I took off all the spark plug wires and im trying to put them back on. The firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2... do i put them on the distributor cap in that order?? or do i put them on clockwise like this:

6 5
4 3
2 1

the book is kinda confusing on this.. thanks.

First you have to find no tdc compression stroke and set your dist rotor to no 1 plug wire terminal.

Start with no 1 and install the rest of them clockwise as per the firing order.

First you have to find no tdc compression stroke and set your dist rotor to no 1 plug wire terminal.

Start with no 1 and install the rest of them clockwise as per the firing order.

Hey MT.. could you please explain how I could do that? trying to figure it out with the manual.. but cant. It only says "replace each spark plug wire 1 at a time"...lol

Hey MT.. could you please explain how I could do that? trying to figure it out with the manual.. but cant. It only says "replace each spark plug wire 1 at a time"...lol
Turn your motor by hand til your number 1 piston is top dead center. If you put your rotor on. It should be pointing to number 1 position. Starting with number 1. moving counter clock wise count 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and place the wires to your plugs. Driver side is odd 1, 3, & 5. Passenger side is even 2, 4, & 6. Hope this helps.

Hey MT.. could you please explain how I could do that? trying to figure it out with the manual.. but cant. It only says "replace each spark plug wire 1 at a time"...lol
Sorry about not explaning more.
Gabe25 has got it covered good.
But remember there is two Top Dead Centers TDC on the pistions.
One is one exhaust stroke and the other one is compression stroke.
Or other words every other time the engine turns over it is on TDC compression.
With No 1 spark plug out put your finger not in :grinyes: but over the spark plug hole and when you are turning or crnking the engine over you will feel the compression stroke. It will push air out spark plug hole.
When it starts to push out air stop when the mark on crank shaft pulley lines up with the timming marker at O degrees or TDC.
Then as you set the dist in and point your rotor to No. 1 spark plug wire on dist cap.
Good Luck MT