Adding power to a SL2

Hi, I just bought a 1995 SL2. I am looking for a way to add 10-20 hp without going into the engine or reducing any reliability. I only want to spend about 100 bucks.

I was looking at a revchip, which adds up to 20 hp for only $25. I'm thinking it will add about 8-12 hp, which is still good. http://www.revchip.com/about.html

I heard about putting on a 1992 header to add more airflow, so if I buy one of them will it install directly on, or will I have to modify it?

Also, I was looking into a cold air intake, any recommendations on brands?

And I know that shaving the head a little bit can get the compression up some, will that help any in a car? (I know it works in quads)

Any other cheap ideas to add a couple hp?

That rev-chip won't do anything for your car except end up causing some sort of damage. All it is is a resistor that changes the readings going into the ecu and will make you car run lean. If there was any such thing as a cheap $25 dollar "chip" that just replaces a sensor to give you more hp, then the sensor probably wouldn't be there in the first place.

As far as "cheap hp" there is no such thing... There are things you can do that will add a bit of power, but nothing major... Such as removing the resonator off of the intake tubing and such.

Well Mike, do you ever watch Trucks on Powerblock TV? Stacey David has a segment called marketplace, which talks about a bunch of different products. I believe they tested this oil additive in an F150 that added 9hp and cooled the oil temp. I forget what it was called but if anyone out there can remember it would be great because I wouldn't mind getting some of it.

Hopefully it should add 4 - 5hp in the saturn. I'm pretty sure that it wasn't that expensive too. Maybe around 10 - 15 bucks.

10-20 hp, thats going to cost more then $100. the rev-chip is a joke as with many other little stupid items like that. im making anywhere around 20+ horsepower (stock motor with 158,000 miles) over stock with about $1200 invested. no chip or fuel controllers, just regular bolt ons.

iceman intake-$170
pacesetter headers-$160
catco converter-$60
apex'i n1 muffler-$200
2" exhaust pipe w/welding-$150
aluminum flywheel-$480

now ive got more but those are the things that have done anything. ive got a stock replacement clutch, msd ignition, and many other things. now the flywheel actually removed some torque because of less rotational weight but it revs alot quicker.

well theres why you spent so much to get 20 hp. You spent 170 on an intake, I'm gonna be getting one for about 30. You spent 160 on a header, I'm getting the header and downpipe for 60. $200 muffler which probably added 1-2 hp tops, $150 for a 2" exhaust what the hell? almost 500 for a light flywheel.

Not giving you shit or anything, but im just saying I can get all of that(excluding flywheel) for about $150-200

well i bought name brand parts, and i dont like ebay. what i have spent is to get quality reliable parts. also the n1 muffler is actually one of the best mufflers out there. it got its name from the n1 racing. the $150 i spent on the pipe, was for the pipe, bending the pipe, and having the cat, muffler, and o2 sensor welded on. ive spent my money wisely and got much more out of it them expected. the projected hp numbers you hear from these parts is full of crap. with everything i bought, with projected hp, i should have like 60hp over stock. its all hype to get you to buy the products. in order to actually make anything out of bolt ons you need to do some tuning. my car has been dynoed so i know the numbers. i know what im doing.

also my n/a set up is good for now, but the future is bigger then anybody has thought for a saturn. im already in the process of having new custom parts made for them through great companies. i dont know how long its going to take to finalize everything a see products come out, but its going to be done.

going back to the original question... those chips are a joke, they dont add anything unless your paying big bucks for a quality one from a racing shop.

If your looking for alot of power for really cheap, i suggest doing what the Honda Boys do - get some stickers and put them all over your car. NOS stickers are least least 50hp each.:thumbsdow

just stay away from chips off ebay - i bought one for my first car and it turned out being nothing more than a little capasitor from RadioShack. they are a rip-off.

10-20 hp, thats going to cost more then $100. the rev-chip is a joke as with many other little stupid items like that. im making anywhere around 20+ horsepower (stock motor with 158,000 miles) over stock with about $1200 invested. no chip or fuel controllers, just regular bolt ons.

iceman intake-$170
pacesetter headers-$160
catco converter-$60
apex'i n1 muffler-$200
2" exhaust pipe w/welding-$150
aluminum flywheel-$480

now ive got more but those are the things that have done anything. ive got a stock replacement clutch, msd ignition, and many other things. now the flywheel actually removed some torque because of less rotational weight but it revs alot quicker.
You say you are using a lighter (i assume) aluminum flywheel with the oem clutch. is it a good combo? i wanted to get a flywheel in the summer but didn't want to be forced into a clutch kit if i didn't need one.

well theres why you spent so much to get 20 hp. You spent 170 on an intake, I'm gonna be getting one for about 30. You spent 160 on a header, I'm getting the header and downpipe for 60. $200 muffler which probably added 1-2 hp tops, $150 for a 2" exhaust what the hell? almost 500 for a light flywheel.

Not giving you shit or anything, but im just saying I can get all of that(excluding flywheel) for about $150-200
he spent money on parts for his car. god bless him. there's nothing wrong with going cheap. Hell i had to go cheap the first year i had my car, but now I spend money money money. spending the extra dollar for brand name parts is how you get an aftermarket. if more people want it, demand increases and the companies get to work (in theory i guess) so you don't have to go the "ghetto" route. I spent 220 on my cai, header was 100, 50 on my muffler and 200 on my exhaust.

To the original question, stay away from those stupid chips. even if there was a real one, it wouldn't be that effective on a 4 cylinder car without extensive mods and tuning.

yeah my aluminum flywheel is doing fine with a "stock" clutch. many guys like to run the valeo and will use an aluminum flywheel. the combo allows for good drivability and quick revving. the valeo clutch seems to be very well stable with the saturn. see with the saturn there isnt much choice for a great quality, lasting, and actually usable clutch. its pretty much a stock, preferably valeo or luk, or ACT 6-puck solid hub (there is a 4 puck but its a bit more aggressive). the ACT is great clutch, but unless your putting down some good power you dont need it, unless you want it which then i hope you like a chattering clutch.

the only thing about the aluminum flywheel is, some have a clearance issue because its aluminum. i know a guy who is running one on his 01 sc2 and the flywheel cover plate had to be removed since it was interfering. also it might need to be shaved so it fits flush on the crank flange. nothing major just need to test fit before calling it done.

mike go to your local junkyard and find a factory header off a 91 or 92 sl2 or sc2 this header offers more power than the pace setter one when used with a newer motor (93 up) i use a saturn as a dirt racer and this proved worthy of my approval i actually switched from the pacesetter to the 92 header and the car just pulls better in the straights also if you wanted to get real deep use a 92 crank and rods in your 95 block the crank has a longer throw than your 95 does giving you more compression you must keep the 95 head for this to prove effective the 93 and newer heads are a tiny bit shorter and if you shave the 95 head on top of the crank work you will see a significant horsepower increase

dailydriver 2001 sc2 w/turbo(190hp)
Racecar 1999 sc2 4cyl modified class(288hp)

the 91-92 header has more power then the pacesetter? um if there is a difference that it will come into next to nothing. both will do the same. once is cheaper then the other, thats about it.

and as of the crank thing, they all have the same stroke. if your going to upgrade the crank, the normal choice for anyone is the 99+ because its been balanced better so there is less vibration. in the 99+ engines the rods are very slightly longer, but the wrist pin was raised in order to keep same stroke. the only real difference is to have flat faced valves installed in place of dished valves.

also the cranks from 91-92 are not interchangable with any other years other then there own. 93+ can be interchanged, STAY AWAY FROM 91-92! really only thing that is like good on it is the header.

The 92 header is the cost effective way to go since it will do most of what aftermarket headers do (i wouldn't say it's as good or better) and has a good bracket already to keep it from cracking. Go with pacesetter if you install it properly.

yes the 91-92 header/downpipe combo is more cost effective, if you can find one. some of those headers also have been known to be cracked so if you pick one up cracked then itll have to be welded.

for me i had no choice. i looked around for a while and found nothing, so i just bought pacesetter. its not ceramic coated but here after a while im pulling it off, blasting it, and then getting it coated. once i start making money again ill be building a turbo kit, so the headers will go.