Need Advice before moving on: Backlight LED for Dash

Ok so two of the LED's have gone out on my dash, the ac and the rear defroster. So now when its dark and my headlights are on they dont show up. I went to chevy the other day and they told me a pretty funny joke, and the joke was they have to replace the whole head unit with the ac and heat switches and all to replace the lights and this will cost me a nice chunk of 150$ to replace two LED's. So im guessing there has to be any easier way to replace them seeming that chevy doesnt sell these lights. Just wanted to ask opinions before I move on. I might pop my dash off today and take a look but I thought id ask. Thanks


Forrest

Either do it there way or get your soldering gun ready, because those are soldered in. Chuck 16 has changed out his HVAC lights with LED's. If GM (and everyone else, for that matter) would use LED's instead of the little incandescent bulbs they use, none of this would be a problem.

It's actually not to bad of a job. If your steady with a soldering gun then you can swap them out to LEDs. I've done my Stereo as well; as most of them were burnt out. The cool thing, is that you can pick any colour you like...

Just had my head unit replaced for that under warranty, $245 parts an labor for GM to pay. Would have just soddered new LEDs if it weren't under warranty.

i love led lights but the only thing i dont like is the fact that you cant control how bright they are =\

Im planning on doing all of my interior lights with LEDs. I just wish someone would put together step by step how to do all of the lights with pictures. Im a visual guy and I need pictures. I dont even need explanations of the pics lol..i can usually figure it out. I know theres threads out there but I dont know where all of them are lol.

excellent thanks for the advice..the the sodering iron i go!

Chuck, what would it entail to turn off a light on my dash? My ABS modual shot craps 2 years ago and am quite comfortable with standard braking. However, I would love to turn that ABS light out on the dash. Any ideas/instruction?

i love led lights but the only thing i dont like is the fact that you cant control how bright they are =\


You can control the brightness of them by choosing different Resistors. All you would have to do is have a variety of Resistors handy and test them on your bench until you get the desired Intensity. I used 270 Ohm Resistors in my Stereo and it's pretty decent on the eyes. The other thing you have to keep in mind is that the LEDs, for the most part, are providing indirect light. They are in there to illuminate from behind so the plastic will eat a lot of the light that the LED emits.

Im planning on doing all of my interior lights with LEDs. I just wish someone would put together step by step how to do all of the lights with pictures. Im a visual guy and I need pictures. I dont even need explanations of the pics lol..i can usually figure it out. I know theres threads out there but I dont know where all of them are lol.

Hey Korndogg,

If you want some pics of my Stereo swap I'd be happy to email you them. They don't show the back of the circuit board but, it's pretty straight forward. I also have a diagram illustrating the + and - terminals on the board.

Chuck, what would it entail to turn off a light on my dash? My ABS modual shot craps 2 years ago and am quite comfortable with standard braking. However, I would love to turn that ABS light out on the dash. Any ideas/instruction?

Hey Man,
I would think that the way to turn it off would be just to pull the bulb from the back of the dash. Pull your cluster out and see what's back there for illumination. I haven't pulled my cluster yet as all the bulbs in there are still working great... If it's an LED I'm pretty sure you could just de'solder it off the board and it wouldn't illuminate any more.
Cheers
Evan

Hey Man,
I would think that the way to turn it off would be just to pull the bulb from the back of the dash. Pull your cluster out and see what's back there for illumination. I haven't pulled my cluster yet as all the bulbs in there are still working great... If it's an LED I'm pretty sure you could just de'solder it off the board and it wouldn't illuminate any more.
Cheers
Evan

The 99-02 just has a little twist lock bulb, like the larger gauge lights. Should be very simple to remove.

Thanks for the information,..I will try when the weather permits.

hey chuck I remember seeing a tread where you showed how to swap the lights or is it me being dumb??

Hey Korndogg,

If you want some pics of my Stereo swap I'd be happy to email you them. They don't show the back of the circuit board but, it's pretty straight forward. I also have a diagram illustrating the + and - terminals on the board.

Sure man Ill take whatever you have. [email protected]

Thanks!!

oh and do you know if it is actually possible to switch every light inside the truck to and LED?? Cause if I do this, I want it all to look the same.

Kenwood Guy,

Glad to finally see a pic of your truck. Looks good.

Kenwood Guy,

Glad to finally see a pic of your truck. Looks good.
:1:

hey chuck I remember seeing a tread where you showed how to swap the lights or is it me being dumb??

Check this thread out...

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=503625

:1:


:iagree:

Hey chuck do you have a copy you can email me of the negative and postive part of the bulb and how they fit in there? I soldered 4 new red bulbs in and when i put them in and started my truck they all blew instantly. I made sure the solder wasnt touching eachother so Im not sure what happened maybe except i reversed the neg and postive. I noticed the neg and positive prongs on the bulb but im not much of an electrician so i dont know much about curcuit boards. Thanks bro.



New Update:So now i bought more LED's and just slid them into place while my AC head unit was plugged into my truck. It lit up but started smoking?????? Im guessing thats what the other LED's did because i could smell it after i opened the unit back up. So im lost here...do i need a certain type or can different LED's handle and different voltage??

oh and my email [email protected]

See Here...

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=503625

Ok so I have to solder the resistor in line with the positive connection correct? So wont this prevent the LED from sitting flat against the board, or can i put the resistor somewhere else so its in line? Im sorry about the dumb questions but the last electrical class i took was in highschool =D.

Ok so I have to solder the resistor in line with the positive connection correct? So wont this prevent the LED from sitting flat against the board, or can i put the resistor somewhere else so its in line? Im sorry about the dumb questions but the last electrical class i took was in highschool =D.

Hey no sweat man. Yes if you point the LED straight up then it won't fit. What I had to do was cut the resistor short and wire it inline; then I had to point the LEDs downwards. I've been told you can buy different height LEDs but, bending the LED works fine as well. With the stereo I, just angled the REsistor off the anode and off to the side so that they would fit into place. Does this seem clear? I've also been told with the A/C, recirc and fresh air buttons you can wire an LED just in line with what feeds that circuit but I found that out after I did mine. Hope this helps???? :iceslolan

chuck have you done the insterment cluster yet??? I have to see that!!! the cd controls look great but I have a stock tape player in mines would the same process work??? also did you change out the resistors??? thanks guys for the comp. on my truck I hope to pump some after market juice in it when I get some extra dough

chuck have you done the insterment cluster yet??? I have to see that!!! the cd controls look great but I have a stock tape player in mines would the same process work??? also did you change out the resistors??? thanks guys for the comp. on my truck I hope to pump some after market juice in it when I get some extra dough

The Stock Tape Deck should work; it's the same setup just have to pry it open and have a look. There are no resistors in the factory setup. They are just plain incadescent bulbs inside. I found the 270 Ohm resistor to be the best for intensity; the bigger the resistor the darker the LEDs. Thanks for the comment on the CD Player. PS -- Haven't done the Cluster yet; once the bulbs burn out I'll definately be swapping in LEDs. Shouldn't be too hard to do.....

The Stock Tape Deck should work; it's the same setup just have to pry it open and have a look. There are no resistors in the factory setup. They are just plain incadescent bulbs inside. I found the 270 Ohm resistor to be the best for intensity; the bigger the resistor the darker the LEDs. Thanks for the comment on the CD Player. PS -- Haven't done the Cluster yet; once the bulbs burn out I'll definately be swapping in LEDs. Shouldn't be too hard to do.....

Easy as pie... contrary to what some people will tell you, it does produce some bright spots, but they're hardly noticeable.

so you have done the cluster??

yup

Hey no sweat man. Yes if you point the LED straight up then it won't fit. What I had to do was cut the resistor short and wire it inline; then I had to point the LEDs downwards. I've been told you can buy different height LEDs but, bending the LED works fine as well. With the stereo I, just angled the REsistor off the anode and off to the side so that they would fit into place. Does this seem clear? I've also been told with the A/C, recirc and fresh air buttons you can wire an LED just in line with what feeds that circuit but I found that out after I did mine. Hope this helps???? :iceslolan


Ok so basically if the curcuit board is lying flat on the table instead of the bulb sticking straight up at the sealing its will be pointing straight toward me or away from me making the bulb parralell with the board?

Easy as pie... contrary to what some people will tell you, it does produce some bright spots, but they're hardly noticeable.

Couldnt you "rough" the LED's some to dissipate the light alittle better somehow??

Ok so basically if the curcuit board is lying flat on the table instead of the bulb sticking straight up at the sealing its will be pointing straight toward me or away from me making the bulb parralell with the board?

Yes.!

Just kidding. Yes it will be bent over pointing towards you.

Ok Sorry for the lousy quality; these were taken before I had my nice digital camera.
http://www.gm-trucks.com/gallery/albums/userpics/26892/HVACled.jpg
http://www.gm-trucks.com/gallery/albums/userpics/26892/HVACleds.jpg

yup

Hey Blender,

Got pics???

Evan

did you just swap the bulbs because if its that easy ill do it asap!!! what are the specs on the new bulbs???

I swapped the bulbs but, you have to remember to put a resistor in line with the LED. The old bulbs had to be desoldered to come off and the new LEDs had to be soldered in. You should be able to get the bulbs from any Radioshack or Electronics store. I picked up mine here in town at a company called "Interior Electronics". Just ask for 12 V LEDs or LEDs that have a forward voltage of 3.5 Volts. You can also purchase LEDs on eBay but, I didn't want to wait that long.

EDIT:

These look like a good deal

http://cgi.ebay.ca/NEW-BLUE-LEDS-Ultra-Bright-12-Volt-LED-DUTCH-BIN_W0QQitemZ8031785423QQcategoryZ33713QQrdZ1QQcmd ZViewItem

can you illustrate how you put the resistor inline????

did you just swap the bulbs because if its that easy ill do it asap!!! what are the specs on the new bulbs???

For the gauge cluster LED swap, I ordere 3 of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8013918909&category=33713
(there were 2 bulbs in each set
and 6 of these:
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=LB-T3T&Category_Code=

Thst is really all you need to do the swap

Follow these directions:
http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24726
to do the swap

I'll get some pics later when it gets dark

your the best blender!!

Here's my gauges:
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a5/BlenderWizard/Silverado/ledgauges.jpg

I think it was a really cool mod. The differences in the "hot" and "cool" spots are nowhere near as apparent as they are in the pic. And the dimmer doesn't really do anything to it anymore. But if you count the hot spots, you will know exactly where all 6 bulbs are in that pic.

Wow im impressed!!! great job blender do the hot spots bug you????

Wow im impressed!!! great job blender do the hot spots bug you????

No, they're really not very noticeable in person.

Looks good Blender. I had figured you had wired in LEDs and not those Peanut ones. Nice work...

Looks good Blender. I had figured you had wired in LEDs and not those Peanut ones. Nice work...

Nah, there's no need... since there's another option readily available. Rewiring is only needed on the 03-06 models, as they do not have twist locks.

Ok so what spec lights do you find best? How does 5mm LED with 220 OHM Resistor sound?

While im at it i might as well replace the larger lights behind the knobs too. are those 10mm bulbs?

oh and is 8000 mcd too bright?

Also blenderwizard isnt the odometer gauge sealed shut? Also i have an issue with my odometer. The gear selection digital lights go in and out. Their out most of the time but when i push my trip selection button really hard or when the heat is running the gear gauge seems to come back on.. any ideas?

is there any way someone can make a complete list of parts that I would need to do the Radio, Heat A/C controls, and the dash?


Also...Is it better to just use a soldering iron? I have a soldering gun but I dunno if it will be too big?

Ok,
Cluster, I'm assuming from Blender's Notes that you need the following:

6 of these: 161 168 194 4 LED Wedge Bulb Found here
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8013918909&category=33713
6 of these: Lampholder Twistlock for T3-1/4 Wedgebase lamps (555,etc) 24-8767 LB-t3t
Found Here.
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=LB-T3T&Category_Code=



As for the Stereo, HVAC, recirc, fresh and A/C. You will need the Following:

Radio
10 LEDs
3-5mm 4-7000 MCD with a forward voltage of 3.5v
10 Resistors
230-1000 OHm Depending on how bright or dim you want it.
I find 270 to be just fine.


HVAC
It's been awhile but I believe 7 LEDs
With the same specs as the Radio.
3-5mm 4-7000 MCD with a forward voltage of 3.5v
Resistors
230-1000 OHm Depending on how bright or dim you want it.
I find 270 to be just fine.

As, far as soldering tools go a Soldering Iron is preferred but, you can do it with a soldering gun it's just not as convenient. I did mine with a Soldering gun as it was all I had. It helps to if you have a "Solder Sucker" for de-soldering the old Lights out.

Please feel free to ask questions of modify the Shopping list here as noted... :smokin:

thanks a bunch man. That helps me out alot.

I was looking on ebay for a soldering kit with the iron and sucker and everything but I couldnt find any. Maybe Ill just go to radio shack and pick one up. They should have one there I would think.

Yeah, they should have one; Home Depot might even have that stuff. Or just look in the Electrical section of your phonebook. I just went to the local Electronics store and picked up the parts from them...

For the gauge cluster LED swap, I ordere 3 of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8013918909&category=33713
(there were 2 bulbs in each set
and 6 of these:
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=LB-T3T&Category_Code=

Thst is really all you need to do the swap

Follow these directions:
http://www.gmfullsize.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24726
to do the swap

I'll get some pics later when it gets dark

I know this is an old thread, but I am about to do this to my truck. I upgraded the stereo, and I want all the lights to be that same blue to match the display. Seems pretty straightforward. My only question is, why do you need the six sockets listed above? Don't the stock bulbs pull out of the stock sockets? In the pics from the post on gmfullsize, they look identical besides being a different color.

Ok,
Cluster, I'm assuming from Blender's Notes that you need the following:

6 of these: 161 168 194 4 LED Wedge Bulb Found here
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8013918909&category=33713
6 of these: Lampholder Twistlock for T3-1/4 Wedgebase lamps (555,etc) 24-8767 LB-t3t
Found Here.
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=LB-T3T&Category_Code=



As for the Stereo, HVAC, recirc, fresh and A/C. You will need the Following:

Radio
10 LEDs
3-5mm 4-7000 MCD with a forward voltage of 3.5v
10 Resistors
230-1000 OHm Depending on how bright or dim you want it.
I find 270 to be just fine.


HVAC
It's been awhile but I believe 7 LEDs
With the same specs as the Radio.
3-5mm 4-7000 MCD with a forward voltage of 3.5v
Resistors
230-1000 OHm Depending on how bright or dim you want it.
I find 270 to be just fine.

As, far as soldering tools go a Soldering Iron is preferred but, you can do it with a soldering gun it's just not as convenient. I did mine with a Soldering gun as it was all I had. It helps to if you have a "Solder Sucker" for de-soldering the old Lights out.

Please feel free to ask questions of modify the Shopping list here as noted... :smokin:


**UPDATE**

For those of you 99-02 guys still wanting LED's in your cluster, use this type:

WLED 5-LED Wide Angle LED bulb

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&keywords=&cart_id=4756894.14981&next=50


They give a much more even lighting effect in the cluster than the 4 LED bulbs do; I just switched mine, and there are no more hot spots.

The twistlock connectors work just the same.

Also, the factory bulbs/twistlocks are a single unit and cannot be seperated.