power steering flush - how do I do it?

I need to do a power steering flush on my 95' SC1 and my Haynes repair manual doesn't have instructions for it. The mechanic charges way too much for it (almost $150 - which I don't have) and says that if I don't get it done, my dirty fluid is going to ruin the rack & pinion. Does anyone know how to do this. I've flushed the radiator before, but I'm guessing that this is quite different.

How bad is it?
I change the fluid in the reservior every couple of years.( same with the brake reservior).
I built something to do this with. Not high-tech, but it works.
I used an old oil bottle, drilled 2 small holes in the lid, and put 2 hoses in. Mark one. Suck on the marked one, with the other in the reservior. When drained, fill it. If the oils dirty, do this a few times a week until its clean. A bit of work, but cheap, and you probably have to buy a litre of fluid anyway.

apparently it's pretty bad, they said that I need to get it done soon or it is going to start corroding and eating away my rack & pinion -- that was more than a month ago, so I appriciate your advice. Since you are describing a syphen type of deal, does that mean that it has to be drained from the filler reservior? There is not a drain at the bottom that can be opened? It wouldn't be the transaxle drain plug, would it? I have the Haynes manual and it is so useless, wish I had gotten a Chiltons, so I could at least find some descent diagrams of the parts.


How bad is it?
I change the fluid in the reservior every couple of years.( same with the brake reservior).
I built something to do this with. Not high-tech, but it works.
I used an old oil bottle, drilled 2 small holes in the lid, and put 2 hoses in. Mark one. Suck on the marked one, with the other in the reservior. When drained, fill it. If the oils dirty, do this a few times a week until its clean. A bit of work, but cheap, and you probably have to buy a litre of fluid anyway.

Here is what I did, not very safe, but it worked.

1. Raise the car on jack stands. This is the not safe part because you will need to start the car while its on jack stands. Make sure when doing this the car is on flat ground.

2. Disconnect the return line at the reservoir. Plug the tip of the reservoir when you do this.

3. Get under the car and stick the return line into an empty 1 gallon container. the old oil will pour into this. You will need some help because the pump will empty quick.

4. Open the cap of the power steering pump and stick one of those wide mouth funnel that are used for antifreeze.

5. Here is when you need the help. Have someone start the car. The oil will pour out into the container as this is happening you or someone needs to be filling the reservoir with new oil. as soon as you see the new oil coming out into the container you know you have flushed the old oil. Turn off the car and connect the line back in its place.

Hope this helps in any way. If anyone has a better and safer way please let me know. I was not very comfortable under the car while the engine was running. Maybe next time I will secure the container and the hose and inspected from the outside.

By the way I only spent around 30 bucks on the jack stands and the 5 containers of power steering fluid. I only used 3 bottles for the job and top off.

Tacuvito.

Okay, scratch that transaxle question - i mentioned it because I saw it in the repair maual and I was just being dumb for a minute -- I know that is to drain transmission fluid in automatics - I have a stick. Don't know what I was thinking.


apparently it's pretty bad, they said that I need to get it done soon or it is going to start corroding and eating away my rack & pinion -- that was more than a month ago, so I appriciate your advice. Since you are describing a syphen type of deal, does that mean that it has to be drained from the filler reservior? There is not a drain at the bottom that can be opened? It wouldn't be the transaxle drain plug, would it? I have the Haynes manual and it is so useless, wish I had gotten a Chiltons, so I could at least find some descent diagrams of the parts.

Yes, that is much better than my way.
I would add that the person at the steering wheel turn the steering lock to lock, softly, to get all the old oil out.
Is the oil dirty in the reservior? "It's going to start corroding things" can be said of new oil too. I've done it my way for years, and the oil is still clear, but it always was.

Yeah, I forgot to mention that, To get all the oil out of the steering gear we turned the wheels lock to lock. sorry for not being more clear. thanks.

to drain fluid on an automatic and manual there is a plug on the engine side of the transaxle. you cant miss it, its a pretty good size bolt.

Thanks a lot you guys, okay, next question - If the dirty fluid was starting to affect my rack & pinion, what would the symptoms be? For the past couple of days my steering has felt unusually loose. There is more play in the wheel all of a suddon. Kind of like it feels when the wheels are out of balance, but there is no reason they should be, I haven't changed a tire or anything.

Thanks a lot you guys, okay, next question - If the dirty fluid was starting to affect my rack & pinion, what would the symptoms be? For the past couple of days my steering has felt unusually loose. There is more play in the wheel all of a suddon. Kind of like it feels when the wheels are out of balance, but there is no reason they should be, I haven't changed a tire or anything.

Thanks a lot you guys, okay, next question - If the dirty fluid was starting to affect my rack & pinion, what would the symptoms be? For the past couple of days my steering has felt unusually loose. There is more play in the wheel all of a suddon. Kind of like it feels when the wheels are out of balance, but there is no reason they should be, I haven't changed a tire or anything.

I see I'm not the only one with an ocassion problem with the "post reply" button.....
Outside temperatures? My steering gets stiffer in the cold for the 1st while. Why not jack a tire up to make sure all of those connections are tight, steering linkages, wheel bearings, tire pressures, etc. I haven't heard that Saturns are bad on steering racks.
That said, you took it to a mechanic because the steering is "funny". Maybe it's already worn out, and causing the dirty oil.

Well, I can't blame the cold weather, living in So. Cal., although it has been raining for the past few days. Anyhow, I actually didn't take it to the mechanic for any steering problems, I just took it for a tune up and oil change and at the time was hearing a clicking sound when I would turn the wheel in one direction. the sound turned out to be a disintigrated motor mount, which I had replaced and the problem was gone. The sound was the only reason I had them check the steering and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Guess I had better just get on that flush soon and see what happens. Thanks very much, I appriciate your help.

I see I'm not the only one with an ocassion problem with the "post reply" button.....
Outside temperatures? My steering gets stiffer in the cold for the 1st while. Why not jack a tire up to make sure all of those connections are tight, steering linkages, wheel bearings, tire pressures, etc. I haven't heard that Saturns are bad on steering racks.
That said, you took it to a mechanic because the steering is "funny". Maybe it's already worn out, and causing the dirty oil.

dirty fluid typically doesnt do much at all. sounds like you have a bad tie rod, loose gear box, bad wheel bearing, or bad cv halfshafts. the clicking noise would bring up more of bad wheel bearing or bad cv halfshafts. unlike on old cars, loose steering was an easy thing to figure out because it was normally an idler arm. now with these power racks its just tie rods, but other things do affect the steering. i had issues with a bit of pull and a clicking noise, and i found a bad wheel bearing. cv halfshafts once getting to the point they want to seperate, cause bad steering, clicking noises, and/or vibrations.