Car turns off while driving

This happened Three times yesterday. The first time i just started the car and about 2 minutes into driving I hit a small bump and it cut off and in the message center the battery light came on, I put it in park started it drove about 4 blocks and it cut off again, the battery light came back on, well I started it and drove to the nearest Autozone where I had them test my battery and alternator. The alternator was fine but the battery wasn't holding a good charge. The third time was later on in the day as I was driving the car it a bump in the road and in the message center the security light came flashing on and off (like it wanted to stay on but there wasn't enought power) and then the car cut off again, the battery light had came on as well. I have noticed that this has happened with the car still cold and after it reaches operating temp it doesn't happen. I also live in Wisconsin where the outside temp is like zero degrees, could this be weather related? Has anyone else encountered the same issue?

Many v6 GM engines have crankshaft position sensors that go bad and cause the car to stall quite often. See if it throws a code and find out what it is telling you. Sometimes, though, the sensor won't throw a code - have it checked out.

*update*

Yesterday it did it 5 times while driving and today once so far. Could this possibly be a fuel problem because after it turns off and i start it again the car takes longer than normal to start (it usually turns over right away) The day this all began when i went to start my car that morning it started but was shaking un-controllibly because i was out of gas from driving the other night (gas guage broken) and it didn't help it was 2 degrees out. I put gas in and it started just fine. engine light came on saying it was multiple cylinder mis-fire, so it was my gas. But could i have broken my fuel pump or fuel injector? Any ideas?

*update*

Yesterday it did it 5 times while driving and today once so far. Could this possibly be a fuel problem because after it turns off and i start it again the car takes longer than normal to start (it usually turns over right away) The day this all began when i went to start my car that morning it started but was shaking un-controllibly because i was out of gas from driving the other night (gas guage broken) and it didn't help it was 2 degrees out. I put gas in and it started just fine. engine light came on saying it was multiple cylinder mis-fire, so it was my gas. But could i have broken my fuel pump or fuel injector? Any ideas?


What engine do you have in your Impala?

It is either ignition or fuel. Someone already mentioned the crankshaft position sensor. If you suspect the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator or fuel filter you can test fuel pressure at the fuel injector rail.

BTW - It is not a good idea to run too low on fuel during the winter due to the possibility of getting condensation/moisture in the gas tank.

Its the 3.8L V6. Is that test something I can do by myself or take it to a garage? Also where is the crankshaft position sensor located in the car and how would i know its faulty. Are there any tests to find out if it is the ignition?

Its the 3.8L V6. Is that test something I can do by myself or take it to a garage? Also where is the crankshaft position sensor located in the car and how would i know its faulty. Are there any tests to find out if it is the ignition?

You can do it DIY if you have a fuel pressure tester and auto shops normally have one to do testing. The fuel pressure gauges are available at Autozone for around $20. On the driver's side of the engine at the fuel injector rail closest to you is a fuel pressure regulator with a Schrader valve. You connect the gauge there. Turn ignition to run not engine start (fuel pump prime) and it will read around 48 - 55 psi. Start engine and it will read around 45 - 55 psi. If this reading is out of spec you can suspect a fuel pump or clogged fuel filter. Then while engine is running remove vacuum line at the fuel pressure regulator and it will read a median of around 52 psi. If it deviates more that 4 to 7 psi with vacuum on and then off the fuel pressure regulator is defective.

On the crank sensor (CKPS), it is located behind the harmonic balancer pulley on the passenger side of the engine, radiator side. If you have a SES light on it may give a odb-ii DTC error code on a scanner or or may not. Some of the other symptoms with a CKPS is the tach will drop to zero a split second before you notice the engine has stalled. It may also give a ABS light and trac off light at the time of stall. A CKPS is very difficult to troubleshoot unless the PCM gives you an error code.

I actually have a appointment with a local dealer to have my fuel pressure regulator replaced because it is covered under the recall so hopefully it will solve my problem. but i just have a gut feeling that its something else and it bugs the heck out of me when i can pin point the actual problem. i really appreciate the advice. I'll update when I get new info.
Thanks.

I am also gonna try to replace the CKPS this weekend and see if it solves my problem. The only thing is, if the CKPS is the issue, its strange that it doesn't throw a code sometimes.

*update*

I haven't gotten around to replacing the CKPS sensor this weekend but it seems that my car has gotten worse. When I started the car this morning it started normal but as soon as i shifted from park to reverse the car died and it died every try after that, after it warmed up alittle i was able to get it past reverse and into drive. I let it warm up alittle in drive and shifted back to reverse. it hesitated alittle but i was then able to back it out my driveway. Why would the car stall when i shift from park to reverse? I'm clueless here.

Also it did die in drive yesterday when i started it but i stalls more often in reverse than drive when the car is started and shifted into a moving gear.

In regards to my earlier posting. (car turns off while driving)
The car finally died on me Monday. The engine doesn't even turn over when I turn the key. Today I had it towed to GM dealer. The issue with my car is a wiring problem from the dash ignition to the PCM to the Ignition Relay box in the left side of the engine compartment. The starter, battery, etc are fine the mechanic was actually able to crank the car from the ignition relay box, so it lies in the the engine wiring harness. GM wants $1,500.00 to replace entire harness or $100.00 an hour to diagnose which wire or wires is the issue. I put the brakes on it, till I could call a few other shops and get a price. To anyone that reads this thread I will post the wiring schematics can you decifer which ones are giving me issues? Is it smart to have GM repair a problem like since they are and have mechanics that are more familiar with the wiring schematics of their cars?

let me know

In regards to my earlier posting. (car turns off while driving)
The car finally died on me Monday. The engine doesn't even turn over when I turn the key. Today I had it towed to GM dealer. The issue with my car is a wiring problem from the dash ignition to the PCM to the Ignition Relay box in the left side of the engine compartment. The starter, battery, etc are fine the mechanic was actually able to crank the car from the ignition relay box, so it lies in the the engine wiring harness. GM wants $1,500.00 to replace entire harness or $100.00 an hour to diagnose which wire or wires is the issue. I put the brakes on it, till I could call a few other shops and get a price. To anyone that reads this thread I will post the wiring schematics can you decifer which ones are giving me issues? Is it smart to have GM repair a problem like since they are and have mechanics that are more familiar with the wiring schematics of their cars?

let me know

tell you waht, I dont really wanna be the "in between guy" and im not trying to steal you over to NAIOA, but go there and register, and post your question, there is a guy on there that is ABSOLUTLY AMAZING with electrical know-how about our cars, and all cars.

he will actually proabably be your best bet, unless someone here is an elecrtical engineer with 20+ years of experience and over 10 with car electrical systems. which if there are, then good, but this guy is amazing, but if its way too much work for an unexperienced person to attept, he'll tell you.

In regards to my earlier posting. (car turns off while driving)
The car finally died on me Monday. The engine doesn't even turn over when I turn the key. Today I had it towed to GM dealer. The issue with my car is a wiring problem from the dash ignition to the PCM to the Ignition Relay box in the left side of the engine compartment. The starter, battery, etc are fine the mechanic was actually able to crank the car from the ignition relay box, so it lies in the the engine wiring harness. GM wants $1,500.00 to replace entire harness or $100.00 an hour to diagnose which wire or wires is the issue. I put the brakes on it, till I could call a few other shops and get a price. To anyone that reads this thread I will post the wiring schematics can you decifer which ones are giving me issues? Is it smart to have GM repair a problem like since they are and have mechanics that are more familiar with the wiring schematics of their cars?

let me know


That is an expensive repair job. Are they 100% sure it is that wiring harness and not just the ignition switch and harness assembly. The ignition switch is less expensive around $125 GM list price and takes fewer labor hours to replace. Other symptoms may include losing daytime running lights, HVAC blower not working, no rear defogger, no radio, no heated seats, etc. in addition to engine shutting off.

" Is it smart to have GM repair a problem like since they are and have mechanics that are more familiar with the wiring schematics of their cars? "

Most dealers are crooks.If you can find a good auto electrical shop you will save a bundle.Where are you located?

Southeastern Wisconsin
You know anyone out here?

Sorry but no.Im in Massachusetts and im not a liberal!!!

Your State voted as you say LIBERAL you right wing commie, Know your facts before you try to talk shit!!!

See what he wants to hot wire it to get you going, if possible. I would look for a sharp independent shop though. $1500 sounds like a lot of $$ to me.

Bob

Your problem has something to do with this...



No-Start or No-Start/No-Crank complaints
can occur for multiple reasons. However, one
of the reasons can be a shorted Class 2 bus.
Vehicle Theft Deterrent systems utilize the
Class 2 bus to communicate security
information between various controllers. For
instance, the BCM will get information from
the Passlock module and then communicate
with the PCM to allow or disallow fuel
delivery and/or starter enable.
When the Class 2 bus is shorted to either
ground or battery voltage, the controllers are
unable to communicate with each other. This
is because the voltage on the line is held
static at either ground or B+. The Class 2
message toggles the voltage on the bus
between 0 and 7 volts, but when the bus is
shorted, the toggling cannot take place.
Because the voltage remains static at either
ground or B+, the Class 2 message can't be
sent or received.
Without these Class 2 messages being
sent and received, the PCM won't get the
proper security messages which would
normally enable fuel and/or starter enable
and the customer will have a No-Start or No-
Start/No-Crank complaint.
TIP: If the problem is intermittent,
remember to search for the U1300 - Class 2
Data Link Low, and U1301 - Class 2 Data Link
High--in "History". This will help determine the
source of the problem.

You know that all sounds right, But that was all Greek to me buddy. When the mechanic was showing me the issue at the dealer he grabbed the wire harness right before it entered the pcm (airbox) and lifted it alittle, when he did that with the ignition on the car turned on, you could here the fuel pump engage(if I probaly turned the key it would have started) As soon as he let the harness go it all killed, he told be that " I bet if you went over bumps your car died" he was right on the money. So this issue all began when I started my car on a very cold morning (-2F) the car shook so violently because i had no gas (broken guage) and i mean violently. I shut it off and tried it again thinking maybe it was frozen gas and i chould of shook the line free but it shook again and i shut it off, i finally put gas in and it started up and acted normal except for it stalling while i drove (mainly over bumps) Is it possible that since the car shook so violent that i shook loose the crank and ignition wires from the PCM (not all the way loose but just enough for a bump to pull it from its position and kill it)? I finally got it at an electric shop so hopefully it'll be ready soon.
Question: Does cluster refer to PND123 on my dash?
replies appreciated.

Support George Bush lungie

Your car problems are caused by Global warming and nothing can be done to fix it .JUNK IT

Do us all a favor and leave this forum, I don't have patience for childish remarks.

Well what about your you idiot?

"Your State voted as you say LIBERAL you right wing commie, Know your facts before you try to talk shit!!!"

I meant what about your comment you IDIOT?

Idiot Hummm? look who's talking or should I say trying to. Learn how to put together a sentence dumbass.

[QUOTE=billyo69
Most dealers are crooks.[/QUOTE]

Show me proof.

I would hold off until some other diagnosis is done.
First thing is if the modules are communicating with each other and if so are their any communication codes stored in any modules.
I would look at the integrity of the power and ground to the modules before I would look at the Class 2 line.
From what you are saying about moving the harness and the PCM starts to turn on componants, I would check terminal tension and check the wires near the PCM.
Proper wire diagnosis can be done without tearing into the wiring harness or diassembling the vehicle.
On this vehicle, I would check the wiring harness where it runs against the A/C accumulator, the harness will rub there and cause some wierd driveability concerns.
Have the dealer check this TSB #00-06-04-049B...your vehicle is showing a classic example of what is covered in this bulletin

"Most dealers are crooks.[/QUOTE]Show me proof."


Most ive dealt with around here anyway.

My experiance is they have you just keep throwing money at a problem.

But not all are that way.There may be one honest one on the planet.

Just my opinion.
For the $ they charge they should be able to pay there mechanics better.Which would result in better mechanics. JMO

"Most dealers are crooks.Show me proof."


Most ive dealt with around here anyway.

My experiance is they have you just keep throwing money at a problem.

But not all are that way.There may be one honest one on the planet.

Just my opinion.
For the $ they charge they should be able to pay there mechanics better.Which would result in better mechanics. JMO[/QUOTE]

Where is around here?

Pay does not make a better mechanic, and you must be dealing with mechanics.
It takes education and training to become a Technician.
Instead of going to the dealer and having anyone work on your vehicle, why don't you do some research.
Find out which service personel or not only ASE Master Technicians, but more importantly which personel are GM Certified, GM Master Technicians or better yet GM World Class Technicians (there are only 600 WC Techs in the US) and have them diagnose and repair your vehicle.
I will agree that the pay structure for Professional Technicians needs to be overhauled, but that is another rant onto itself :banghead:

Follow my instructions in the last post and you will repair your vehicle

I am in the central Massachusetts area.My vehicle is repaired with a THERMOSTAT.The dealer charged me $80 for tech diagnosis which when completed i was told i needed a DASH CLUSTER. I did not have the dealer replace the cluster instead i replaced the STAT and problem fixed.So they are either crooks or stupid.I have 10 vehicles on the road at most timesand i have many true dealer stories similar to that one.

Ok, I just searched this forum and found this thread to a problem I just had today.
It's a 2004 base model.
I was driving on the freeway today and went over a medium bump at around 70mph, the car died just as it hit the bump.
I threw it in neutral and pulled over with no steering after almost being killed by 2 tractor trailers.
After coming to a stop, I turned it on without a problem, drove it straight to the dealership i got it from 3 weeks ago. They took a look and found nothing of course.
It's only happened ONCE and i drove 100 miles since the incident and nothing happened.
It strikes me how similar the original poster's first experience was, he went over a bump as well.

Is this something I should check into, or not worry about?? :uhoh:

Update: Just did it again after pulling out of a driveway. That's twice in one day (enough for me)
I'm almost positive this is an electrical problem because it happens even if I have throttle down. Typical stalls from fuel or misfire problems happen when the foot is off the gas.
I made another appointment at the dealership (carmax), what can I tell them to get them started on reparing the actual problem? I'm tempted to force them to return the car since I just got this thing 2 weeks ago.

:frown: