Help with a 95 power loss on long trips

First time poster looking for some help on a 95 with two issues.

The first thing has happened on only long trips after about an hour of driving or basically when the thing is good and hot (towing a small trailer heavy load of stuff) When I let off the gas and get back into the throttle there is no power. I can hold the pedal down a little and wait maybe 5 to 10 seconds and then power rushes in. If I fully depress the throttle the Van down shifts and and the power will return. It makes it impossible to maintain a speed by feathering the thottle. I have taken it out of OD and issues are the same. If I use the cruise it starts bucking as the cruise control open and closes the throttle. No CEL until recently it flagged an O2 sensorBank 2 sensor 1 Lean condition (the CEL reset after two days of normal daily driving). It makes some sense that it could cause the issue but as I talk to others they don't think it could cause it. I'm hearing fuel pump. We take very few long trips so this problem has existed for the past 2 years. I would think if the fuel pump was going it would have gone by now or started acting up in everyday driving to work and back. I do also have a vibration that I hear at exactly 28 mph from the right rear of the vehicle. I thought maybe exhaust but I replace it. Now I'm thinking pump noise from the fuel pump the dealer has looked for the vibration with no results. I have new everything on this van and hate to dump it over this issue but we are doing more long trips and sitting on the side of the road isn't fun. I'm trying to figure this out before a total failure.
The other issue is a rubber on metal sound coming from the steering linkage right at the fire wall. I noticed it on the first cold wets days we had in Michigan I tryed a little silicone and grease just to see if it would effect the problem didn't help. My concern is the rack I have had the fluid changes and they did flush it with a chemical to get the gunk out. Of course once it gets into a warm repair garage it stops. Again I'm trying to head off another show stopped issue like a rack

Any experience would be appreciated the mechanics scratch there head unless they see it all the time. Hoping to find someone who has had this problem and resolved it or had it resolved.

Isn't this fun

Thanks,

First time poster looking for some help on a 95 with two issues.

The first thing has happened on only long trips after about an hour of driving or basically when the thing is good and hot (towing a small trailer heavy load of stuff) When I let off the gas and get back into the throttle there is no power. I can hold the pedal down a little and wait maybe 5 to 10 seconds and then power rushes in. If I fully depress the throttle the Van down shifts and and the power will return. It makes it impossible to maintain a speed by feathering the thottle. I have taken it out of OD and issues are the same. If I use the cruise it starts bucking as the cruise control open and closes the throttle. No CEL until recently it flagged an O2 sensorBank 2 sensor 1 Lean condition (the CEL reset after two days of normal daily driving). It makes some sense that it could cause the issue but as I talk to others they don't think it could cause it. I'm hearing fuel pump. We take very few long trips so this problem has existed for the past 2 years. I would think if the fuel pump was going it would have gone by now or started acting up in everyday driving to work and back. I do also have a vibration that I hear at exactly 28 mph from the right rear of the vehicle. I thought maybe exhaust but I replace it. Now I'm thinking pump noise from the fuel pump the dealer has looked for the vibration with no results. I have new everything on this van and hate to dump it over this issue but we are doing more long trips and sitting on the side of the road isn't fun. I'm trying to figure this out before a total failure.
The other issue is a rubber on metal sound coming from the steering linkage right at the fire wall. I noticed it on the first cold wets days we had in Michigan I tryed a little silicone and grease just to see if it would effect the problem didn't help. My concern is the rack I have had the fluid changes and they did flush it with a chemical to get the gunk out. Of course once it gets into a warm repair garage it stops. Again I'm trying to head off another show stopped issue like a rack

Any experience would be appreciated the mechanics scratch there head unless they see it all the time. Hoping to find someone who has had this problem and resolved it or had it resolved.

Isn't this fun

Thanks,


You may want to look at fuel filter change if it isn't one of 100 things you may have already repaired/replaced on the Winnie.. The hesitation or stumbling during the acceleration sounds like a dirty or clogged fuel injection system .. get a good quality fuel inj. cleaner and run it thru the system for the next 2-3 tanks and then every 3rd or 4th fill there after.. octane rating is very important and most drivers (88%) buy regular gas/fuel. And, the Winnies been known to cough and sputter up a "fuel ball" <<so to speak>> because of it. Could very well be the fuel pump as you mentioned as well as in a low fuel pressure or a restricted fuel line somewhere. Any accidents as of recent or going over a curb and scrapping the bottom of the vehicle? Filters almost under your front passenger drivers seat area in the front left area of the fuel tank. Take a look under there for damage etc if that was the case or changing the fuel filter.Could even be the air filter clogged up when you mentioned surging .
The vibration issue.. sounds to me like the tire issue I just replied to as well that you posted about pulling to the right at high hwy. speeds.The front passenger or back passenger tires may be out of wack from rotating the tires issue. The steel belts literally learn a path /rotation and if you happen to pull them from the drivers and flip them to the passenger and vise versa.. you'll have nightmares especially on older tires with some wear on them. THave them checked for balancing issues firstly.
The rubber on metal sound.. ?? no idea.. Winnies are notorious for teh rack and pinion going..and I have had to replace mine just last year. Can you say Cha Ching! Good luck with teh Xmas drive and the new baby .. get the van checked ..especially when your talking yours and the babies and husbands safety!

2 bottles of Chevron Techron Fuel system cleaner (1 bottle treats 10 gallons). This is a great product...and very easy to find. I would do 2-3 tanks as you have been advised.
Not all fuel system cleaners are the same...and this one seems to be highly recommended and very easy to find.
It is best on an ongoing basis to do a good treatment about 3 times a year...
The cleaner does a good job.

How old are your spark plugs?
The need to be Double Platinum spark plugs.... and those are only offered under the Motorcraft and Autolite names.
Spark plug wires?

Air filter?

There are several things that can cause the clunk sound in the front end...... 1 is where the front of the front suspension connects to the subframe.....
If look under the front of the car....right under the oil filter is the one on the passenger side. You will see a rod...that goes through the subframe....with a big nut on it...... At that nut...in the subframe is a bushing. The mount for the bushing can break free.....and move slightly...causing the clunk. The solution is to have the subframe bushing mount welded. I have a picture of this location in my pictures at http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK
It is not something that is going to fall out....just make an anoying sound....the movement is VERY slight....just enough to make a sound.

Another cause of the clunk can be caused by the subframe bushings....These are at the 4 points that the front subframe connects to the unibody.
Put simply.... The front suspension is connected at several points to the subframe. The subframe is connected at 4 points to the unibody of the car.


I also have the fuel filter shown in my pictures.

Please take note that the intake on your '95 is MUCH different than what is on my '96...and later years.

The lean code for bank 2 sensor 1 is most likely caused by a vaccum leak. If it comes back....hold off on the auto parts store advise to replace the oxygen sensor for $50 or more....as that rarely solves the problem. If you have the 2 catalytic converters as the '96 and later years have.....then you would want to replace the oxygen sensors in pairs....as the switching charactoristics slow down over time. The PCM will light up...and there are specific codes for oxygen sensor failures......including a specific code for slow switching....should the switching become too slow.
My point in replacing the sensors before each converter as a pair.....is that you want the same switching charactoristics for both banks of cylinders.

You may want to look at fuel filter change if it isn't one of 100 things you may have already repaired/replaced on the Winnie.. The hesitation or stumbling during the acceleration sounds like a dirty or clogged fuel injection system .. get a good quality fuel inj. cleaner and run it thru the system for the next 2-3 tanks and then every 3rd or 4th fill there after.. octane rating is very important and most drivers (88%) buy regular gas/fuel. And, the Winnies been known to cough and sputter up a "fuel ball" <<so to speak>> because of it. Could very well be the fuel pump as you mentioned as well as in a low fuel pressure or a restricted fuel line somewhere. Any accidents as of recent or going over a curb and scrapping the bottom of the vehicle? Filters almost under your front passenger drivers seat area in the front left area of the fuel tank. Take a look under there for damage etc if that was the case or changing the fuel filter.Could even be the air filter clogged up when you mentioned surging .
The vibration issue.. sounds to me like the tire issue I just replied to as well that you posted about pulling to the right at high hwy. speeds.The front passenger or back passenger tires may be out of wack from rotating the tires issue. The steel belts literally learn a path /rotation and if you happen to pull them from the drivers and flip them to the passenger and vise versa.. you'll have nightmares especially on older tires with some wear on them. THave them checked for balancing issues firstly.
The rubber on metal sound.. ?? no idea.. Winnies are notorious for teh rack and pinion going..and I have had to replace mine just last year. Can you say Cha Ching! Good luck with teh Xmas drive and the new baby .. get the van checked ..especially when your talking yours and the babies and husbands safety!


Ya the thing is almost brand new with all the new parts. Plugs wires fuel filter Idle air, Throttle position and I have been running fuel injector cleaner. It run great until it gets good and hot that why when I got a light for the O2 sensor I thought it was worth asking others if that could be a cause my mechanic thinks maybe trying to confirm it before buying another $70 part

What are your thoughts on that the problem only happens when it is good and hot. Everyday driving is fine.

I have used injector cleaning plugs everything obvious.

It is a BIG long shot....but the fuel pump relay is inside the CCRM on our older windstars. They did come out with an updated CCRM with better sealed relays. The problem was a non-start after getting the engine good and warm....and then shutting it off for about 15 minutes....during COLD weather. This is not the problem that you are having...but I am wondering if the fuel pump relay is a possible cause. CCRM is Constand Control Relay Module.
I also have pictures of this item in my pictures. It is easy to change. Location in my '96 is between the radiator and the battery. You have to get at it from under the car..... But the pictures make it much more clear than my typing.

The CCRM contains gets its signal directly from the PCM to drive the relays. The relays inside the CCRM are Fuel pump, Radiator Fan Low Speed, Radiator Fan High Speed, and A/C compressor.

A non-functioning or intermittent functioning fuel pump will not light the CEL or set codes. I can guess that it could cause another code...but not any fuel pump code.

To buy Motorcraft parts that you cannot get at part stores.... http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214072

This is a FORD dealership in Seattle that give good prices on parts online. Send them an email telling them what part you want....and include specific information on your car/year/engine. They will respond telling you what part to buy. I seem to remember that it was not real clear on this part in the menu driven descriptions. They are VERY helpful by email and on the phone. They sent me a response to my email question with the link to the part.

Replacing mine solved a problem with my radiator fans only comming on with the A/C...and not by engine temp. Point being....everything else can be working great.....just one function not working correctly.