EGR valve problem on a 1997 SL2

I bought a 1997 saturn with a blown engine. I have a 1994 engine with low miles that I want to put in it. My problem is that the head on the 97 has a electric egr valve while the 94 has a vacumn valve and they are not interchangable due to the design of the head. Can I do away with the egr valve all together and is there a way I can fool the computer so That I would not get an engine check light?

there is a adaptior you can use, search junkyards for a 94 DOHC engine with california emissions or buy direct from saturn Part# 21006753

Part# 21006753 is no longer available from saturn has been discontinued

Part# 21006753 is no longer available from saturn has been discontinued

Thanks,
For the replies. I live in North Florida so I don't think I would have much chance of finding a 1994 DOHC engine from california in the local junkyard. Does anyone have one for sale? I may end up rebuilding the head from the 97 and just using the short block from the 94.

some new england states also require cali emissions, you may get lucky

some new england states also require cali emissions, you may get lucky
What is the worst that could happen if I leave the egr disconnected?

first, your SES light will be on and if you move out of florida, you will automaticly fail an emissions test. it is also ilegal to remove, disable, or tamper any emission device regardless of state. as for the actual effects of the engine, the air/fuel ratio will be off, combustion and exhaust temps will be excessively high, possibley resulting in damage to the engine(burnt valves, warped head) or to the catalyic convertor. hosistly, i know some people who do do it, done that i know of with damage yet, but i doubt those engines will last 200,000 miles.

first, your SES light will be on and if you move out of florida, you will automaticly fail an emissions test. it is also ilegal to remove, disable, or tamper any emission device regardless of state. as for the actual effects of the engine, the air/fuel ratio will be off, combustion and exhaust temps will be excessively high, possibley resulting in damage to the engine(burnt valves, warped head) or to the catalyic convertor. hosistly, i know some people who do do it, done that i know of with damage yet, but i doubt those engines will last 200,000 miles.

Thanks for all the advice sierrap615. Can I use the 97 head on the 94 short block. If I can, I'll have it recondition. Also while I have the top off what modification can I do for performance.

you wont be able to leave the connection off. if you do a ses light will stay on and could possible screw up drivability. the car just wont function right. ive been around saturns for quite some time and seen many swaps, and no one swaps an old motor into a newer car unless they plan to replace the pcm. they do however, do swaps with different heads and blocks. you must stick with your second gen head, as of the block practically all will work but i think your suppose to stay away from the 91-92 blocks because they dont swap out 100%. im even building an engine with an 01 block and a 97 head(pretty much the best out of all combinations). if you want to get into the work, you could swap the heads as long as the blown engines problem wasnt the head or head gasket. if head gasket then you can have it machined to be flat again.

ok so you dont have to read everything up there. yes the head will swap out. as of performance i just got finished writing on this in another topic. its up to as of how much you want to spend. there is porting, where most power is gained, then you have like dual valve springs which at high rpm keep the valves seated so they dont do the all to dreaded valve lift. they make titanium retainers and keepers, high temp valve stem seals(A MUST!), stainless valves, and an assortment of performance cams. check out www.streetdesignauto.com www.spswebpage.com www.saturnmotorsports.com

ok so you dont have to read everything up there. yes the head will swap out. as of performance i just got finished writing on this in another topic. its up to as of how much you want to spend. there is porting, where most power is gained, then you have like dual valve springs which at high rpm keep the valves seated so they dont do the all to dreaded valve lift. they make titanium retainers and keepers, high temp valve stem seals(A MUST!), stainless valves, and an assortment of performance cams. check out www.streetdesignauto.com www.spswebpage.com www.saturnmotorsports.com

Thnaks,
I've checked out this site and they are great. The donor car is a 94 it has about 90,000 miles and the compression is at 200 on all cylinders. it came out of my wife sc2 which she ran off the road and damage the lower cardle as well as the under side of the car.I've own this car since new and I 've taken care of it. The 97 I bought on ebay with a brand new leather interior and the car is in like new condition. It has about 2500 in upgrades but. it had a spun rod bearing and compression of about 165 on three cylinder. So I have a good lower unit with the 94 and I'm going to get the head from the 97 recondition. I will use the high temp seal.I will shave the head down alittle and open up the exhaust and intake. What do you think?
Thanks

really the cheapest power upgrade is to port match the intake. it wouldnt hurt either to do the same with the exahaust. just take the gaskets and set them up on the both surfaces and make marks where the items can be shaved to match the gasket port. but dont flop the gasket around! each port could be slightly different from one another and you dont need like a vaccum leak. also if there seems to be alot that can be removed, then dont go crazy with it and like make the head so thin that after a few times it heats up and cools down that it cracks.