Window edges

Hi,

I've been wondering for quite a while now; is it even possible to paint the black border around the window of some cars with a brush?

I've tried it a few times now; it comes out reasonable sometimes, but many times the tape bleeds, or the edge isn't clean enough. (I'm using Tamiya's acrilic gloss black for painting the edge)

I know most people here use an airbrush, and they get very good results by doing so. I don't have the money for an airbrush, tho... So, is there any way to do a clean window edge with a brush? Should I perhaps use an other kind of paint?

Check out the HT section. the answer is there.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t56889.html

Check out the HT section. the answer is there.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t56889.html

Thanks, however that's not what I meant.

I mean the black edge on the window, not the window trim! It's pretty hard to explain... well, it's those edges on the inside of the clear piece, which are supposed to be painted black.

Of course it's possible. I never airbrush those areas unless it's a Tamiya kit w/precut masks-if I make my own masks I'll hand paint w/a brush.

If you mask the area, you must use masking that fully seals or it bleeds. Tamiya masking tape is great, as you can see by it's color if it's properly burnished down. Even then you might get a few mistakes that need to be carefully cleaned up when you remove the masking.

Lately I've been taking an easier route, I use a black Sharpie. I have one of the bigger Sharpies that has a chisel tip on one end and the pointed conical tip at the other. I tend to use mostly the flat chiseled tip, it's fairly easy to line it up w/the edge of the glass and get a rhythm going that you can guide the marker back and forth right up to the edge of the frosted area w/o going past it. You have to sneak up on it, make several passes w/the marker for full coverage and to get up to the proper edge of the frosted area. I'll do this along the (generally) four sides to the glass, then use the smaller tip to fill in the corner fillets. This trick is easier than messing w/paint and masking, and my results are nearly identical to when I build a Tamiya kit w/precut masks and where I airbrush the areas. I also do this glass detailing while under a very strong desk lamp so I can see what I'm doing at all times.

Just as ZoomZoomMX-5 said, if you notch your sharpies, then run them around the edge smoothly you can get good results on thinner window bands.

http://img465.imageshack.us/img465/7625/d10yj.jpg

For larger areas though, sharpies tend to be a bit translucent so, I follow up with a coat of PolyScale flat black. Work the final paint just too the edge but leaving the marker as the main defining line.

Thanks guys, I'll give that a try. My english is not very good, though, so some things are hard to understand.

So by "sharpie", do you mean a fineliner or those thick permanent markers?

Yeah, Sharpie is just a brand name but, there are a ton of other markers that work just as well, if not better.

http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/8468/sharpie4hl.jpg

I've found that some "laundry" markers are very opaque and cover in one coat but, they in turn are harder to clean up after if you make a mistake which, should be touched on here also! If you do happen to slip up, ordinary rubbing alcohol will usually remove the marker easily.

Thanks guys, I'll give that a try. My english is not very good, though, so some things are hard to understand.

So by "sharpie", do you mean a fineliner or those thick permanent markers?

Yeah, Sharpie is just a brand name but, there are a ton of other markers that work just as well, if not better.

http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/8468/sharpie4hl.jpg

I've found that some "laundry" markers are very opaque and cover in one coat but, they in turn are harder to clean up after if you make a mistake which, should be touched on here also! If you do happen to slip up, ordinary rubbing alcohol will usually remove the marker easily.

Thanks a lot, you and Zoomzoom are of great help to me. I'll give it a go!

I must say i'd have to agree these guys with the markers...i prefer using the fine tip markers, or even the markers that you can buy from the hobby stores by Testors, although they are very expensive compared to a normal sharpie, or fine tip marker. I would try doing it with marker first, and then see how well it turns out