2001 Windstar knocking

2001 windstar, 45k miles. Knocking from engine at idle, goes away after awhile, then comes back. Sounds like it's coming from the valve cover area or air intake plenum, no performance issues, no trouble codes. I have read several posts about a tsb regarding this issue on "baffle noise". How to get this tsb, or what parts, etc. needed. Anyone have any ideas where I should start?

2001 windstar, 45k miles. Knocking from engine at idle, goes away after awhile, then comes back. Sounds like it's coming from the valve cover area or air intake plenum, no performance issues, no trouble codes. I have read several posts about a tsb regarding this issue on "baffle noise". How to get this tsb, or what parts, etc. needed. Anyone have any ideas where I should start?
basically the upper intake is the cause of the noise.it separates into two pieces due to defective spot welds, and the pieces hit against each other causing that knocking type noise.ive never seen it cause any drivability issues, just that annoying knock.if you take that off to replace you might as well replace isolator bolts and all the rubber o-rings and gaskets,along with the updated valve cover, of course im assuming that work hasnt already been performed. by the way if it hasnt, its only a matter of time before your CEL comes on with lean codes.

Yep, the baffle comes loose on the inside of that black plastic monstrocity of an intake. I'm not sure how it would run without it, so you either have to try to secure it home-remedy style, or replace the whole upper intake assembly.

G/luck
Joel

Yep, the baffle comes loose on the inside of that black plastic monstrocity of an intake. I'm not sure how it would run without it, so you either have to try to secure it home-remedy style, or replace the whole upper intake assembly.

G/luck
Joel
Thanks for the replies. I'm going to try and repair the baffle first, while I'm in there, I'll look to see how much of a job replacing the isolator bolts are. If I do decide to buy new bolts, will the parts counter at my local ford dealer know what the new one's are and how they are different from the old ones? I don't want to get the same kind....

You may want to do some searchs on this forum. A lot of good stuff has been published already by several folks .... including photo links.

You may want to do some searchs on this forum. A lot of good stuff has been published already by several folks .... including photo links.
Yes, have read alot of them and seen the pics. Just wanted to make sure that I was on the right track. It's a shame, just bought the thing two months ago from CarMax, guess they don't check everything!!

Take heart! It's a fairly easy repair, whether you plan to re-glue it (I did) or buy a new piece.

... It's a shame, just bought the thing two months ago from CarMax, guess they don't check everything!!

They always do the bare minimum to maximize their profits :disappoin . If you havent yet (45Kmi) make sure you do an ATF/filter change, P-steering flush and cooling system flush. #1 is the ATF. The AX4N transaxle really beats up the ATF. Use only Mercon-V.

G/luck
Joel

They always do the bare minimum to maximize their profits :disappoin . If you havent yet (45Kmi) make sure you do an ATF/filter change, P-steering flush and cooling system flush. #1 is the ATF. The AX4N transaxle really beats up the ATF. Use only Mercon-V.

G/luck
Joel
Man, thanks for that info, I have also started to notice a shudder going into 3rd under light load, doesn't do it a full throttle. I've checked the stick, the fluid does not appear or smell burnt, but I'm going to change it to be safe. Don't want to have tranny problems already. Didn't get a warranty.

Man, thanks for that info, I have also started to notice a shudder going into 3rd under light load, doesn't do it a full throttle. I've checked the stick, the fluid does not appear or smell burnt, but I'm going to change it to be safe. Don't want to have tranny problems already. Didn't get a warranty.

Those bolts arn't cheap!! $75.00 for the 8 isolator bolts and 6 gaskets. Going to start tearing into it tomorrow. Also got a big tube of sensor safe RTV. Just beginning to wonder: if the loose baffle causes the noise, what do I need to replace the isolator bolts for? Is it the loose baffle or the deteriorating bolt washers that trigger the codes?

The bolt washers (aka isolators) deteriate and then things don't seal up nice and tight....resulting in vaccum leak(s) and that gives you lean codes.
Something rattling around loose in the intake makes an anoying noise....and I would be concerned about something breaking loose and going on into the engine. Does not take a very big piece to cause problems.

The bolt washers (aka isolators) deteriate and then things don't seal up nice and tight....resulting in vaccum leak(s) and that gives you lean codes.
Something rattling around loose in the intake makes an anoying noise....and I would be concerned about something breaking loose and going on into the engine. Does not take a very big piece to cause problems.

Thanks for clearing that up.

Thanks for clearing that up.

Follow up: Just completed the isolator bolt replacement, also replaced the 6 intake gaskets. Not too bad of a job. I was able to get it done without having to remove the cowl, just removed the wipers and the plastic cover and then removed all the bolts holding the cowl, was able to lift it enough without having to remove it. I was also able to replace the gaskets without having to remove the throttle linkage and all that, you can lift it up enoughh to see/replace the gaskets. Thanks to all who have replied and also for the excellent instructions and feedback on this subject in this forum. I used sensor safe RTV to secure the baffle as it had come loose, I have no knocking anymore and hopefully won't have any of those pesky trouble codes caused by vacuum leaks. Thanks to all!

Follow up: Just completed the isolator bolt replacement, also replaced the 6 intake gaskets. Not too bad of a job. I was able to get it done without having to remove the cowl, just removed the wipers and the plastic cover and then removed all the bolts holding the cowl, was able to lift it enough without having to remove it. I was also able to replace the gaskets without having to remove the throttle linkage and all that, you can lift it up enoughh to see/replace the gaskets. Thanks to all who have replied and also for the excellent instructions and feedback on this subject in this forum. I used sensor safe RTV to secure the baffle as it had come loose, I have no knocking anymore and hopefully won't have any of those pesky trouble codes caused by vacuum leaks. Thanks to all!

I am going to be working on the same thing on my 2001 windstar. The baffle rattling began about 2 years ago on mine and now I am getting the Bank 1 and 2 system too lean codes. Do you have any pics related to this project or a step-by step? Were those bolts $75 per bolt or was that for everything? I heard that they were expensive.

Thanks!

Here's the procedure you want:

http://www.leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html

I just did this a few months ago. It's time consuming, but not terribly difficult. Other items to note:

- You can identify the updated isolator bolts by the seal color: The new ones are green; the originals are black. The bolts are something like $5 each. Yes, you'll spend about $75 for the bolts and a set of port seals.

- Several people have had success with baffle noise by using RTV sealant to hold it in place. Mine didn't have this problem, so I can't comment.

- Yes, you'll want the updated isolator bolts; you'll eventually see problems related to the old seals.

Absolutely fantastic! Yes Virginia, there is a Santa Claus! Both I and the wife thank you.

Happy Holidays!