Valve cover replacemet/De-Carb 2000 Ford WS

Ahhhhhhh!!!! Right at 36,001 miles ............
1st it was the T. Rods $180.00
2nd it was the Sun gear $1400.00
now it's the valve cover/de-carb. & my mechanic wants $325.00

What do you suggested?

I did read the new TSB 04-19-2 that lists a procedure for the de-carbing
sound easy enough for my husband

Can any one give me step by step intructions or a website that would help on how to replace the valve cover?

THANK YOU;

Marissa

Here's a past post on that TSB and the decarbon process, I've used Seafoam via the PCV line instead.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=406695&highlight=pm2

Here's a post with the detailed instructions on replacing the valve cover:

http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html



The valve cover is very easy to replace and only runs around $60 and the decarbon products should be <$10 or so. Is there something else being done, if not then definitely do this yourself. The other thing to be aware of is if you do the full TSB it retards your timing to prevent knock resulting in decreased performance and MPG.

Thanks so much for the info. My question is ... the instructions given on
://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html , is that showing how to clean out the lines with a recommendation of changing the valve cover?
Can I just change the valve cover and then perform the de-carb. by using the seafoam to clean out the lines?

Thank You;

Marissa







Here's a past post on that TSB and the decarbon process, I've used Seafoam via the PCV line instead.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=406695&highlight=pm2

Here's a post with the detailed instructions on replacing the valve cover:

http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html
The valve cover is very easy to replace and only runs around $60 and the decarbon products should be <$10 or so. Is there something else being done, if not then definitely do this yourself. The other thing to be aware of is if you do the full TSB it retards your timing to prevent knock resulting in decreased performance and MPG.

That page has the steps to complete an entirely different TSB, related to lean error codes P0171/P174. But it did include the steps to replace the valve cover. The decarb TSB that you list above is strictly to address engine knock due to carbon buildup. That's what your symptoms are correct?

[QUOTE=lewisnc100]That page has the steps to complete an entirely different TSB, related to lean error codes P0171/P174. But it did include the steps to replace the valve cover. The decarb TSB that you list above is strictly to address engine knock due to carbon buildup. That's what your symptoms are correct?

Yes I did take it to a machanic and he told me the knocking I am hearing is a spark knock.

I'm not sure what a TSB & her never made mation of any codes...
and I guess what trying to say , if I complete the 1 st step ( of the photos shown) and replace the valve cover, will performing the de-carbonization of the lines be enough to stop the knock.

Thank You
Mari

I recently performed the leckemby.net procedure on my 2000 Windstar, including replacing the valve cover. What I learned doing this has convinced me that the original valve cover can be modified to perform like the revised valve cover.

Take a look at this page (written for a Mustang V6 3.8, but the valve cover looks just like a Windstar):

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/pcv_filter.htm

Note that the only real differences are a hole in the steel plate (easily plugged using a bolt and quality locking nut) and a few other changes easily made with tin snips and a pair of pliers. Easy way for a knowledgeable DIYer to save about $60.

Here's a past post on that TSB and the decarbon process, I've used Seafoam via the PCV line instead.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=406695&highlight=pm2

Here's a post with the detailed instructions on replacing the valve cover:

http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html



The valve cover is very easy to replace and only runs around $60 and the decarbon products should be <$10 or so. Is there something else being done, if not then definitely do this yourself. The other thing to be aware of is if you do the full TSB it retards your timing to prevent knock resulting in decreased performance and MPG.

Hello. It's me again, I went to purchase the Value Cover from FORD for my 2000 W.S. and was asked; which one? left or right? Is there two and do both have to be replaced? By the way Ford wanted $600.00 to do the job. They have their nerve!
Thanks You again for all your help

Mari

Its the LH valve cover and that's the only one that the TSB calls for replacing. The part# is 3F2Z-6582-BA.

Its the LH valve cover and that's the only one that the TSB calls for replacing. The part# is 3F2Z-6582-BA.

Thank You!

JUst to add...
Last I read, the replacement valve cover was not painted....so it will be silver....unless they have changed things.

The part of the TSB that Lewis was talking about that will retard your timing....is a re-program of the computer (PCM reflash). This compensates for carbon in the cylinders...and does away with the pinging and knocking.....but it does it by delaying the spark...which decreases your mileage.

The lean codes that have been mentioned (P0174&171) will result in the Check Engine Light (CEL) coming on. So...if your check engine light is not on, you do not have those codes.
IF your CEL comes on....you can have the codes read for free at many auto parts stores.....including Autozone....but you will want to make sure to get the actual numeric code from them...
If you get the "lean codes" they often try to sell you oxygen sensors....which very rarely solve the problem. That is when you want to come back to this forum.....and do a search on the code you get......

I would also recommend that you save the link / information about the complete TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) in case you need it.

Here's a past post on that TSB and the decarbon process, I've used Seafoam via the PCV line instead.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=406695&highlight=pm2

Here's a post with the detailed instructions on replacing the valve cover:

http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html



The valve cover is very easy to replace and only runs around $60 and the decarbon products should be <$10 or so. Is there something else being done, if not then definitely do this yourself. The other thing to be aware of is if you do the full TSB it retards your timing to prevent knock resulting in decreased performance and MPG.

Thank You again for all your help, I purchased the Valve cover , where would be the best place to get the decarb. products, and is Seaform the brand?
Mari

The decarb products in the TSB are Ford products, you could probably get them at a dealer or order them online. I think I've seen them at 1stfordparts.com, part #'s are in a past post (I think PM2 and PM3). Seafoam is a retail brand you can find in about any auto parts store in the US.

There is a section in the how-to do the TSB where the torque for the bolts is questioned because Hayes writes them at 89 ft-lbs. The Ford CD has it at 89 ft-in or 10nm or 7.4ft-lbs. Hope this helps. Thanks for the great how-to.

My edition of the Haynes has the torque listed in "in lbs", but it is confusing.

I have little faith in any chemical "bullet" being able to remove a bad carbon build-up ... by merely adding it to a running engine. Now, periodically using it as a preventative effort to minimize the build-up ... that's different. But a heavy build-up can only be removed by disassembly and elbow-grease ... and soaking in cleaning chemicals to aide the process. I use Permatex Gasket Remover to help soften up carbon build-up during an overhaul ... especially helpful on piston tops and ring grooves.

I once had a ping on my '99 Winnie. It went away after the EGR jets were unplugged. At the same time all the air intake was cleaned, including the IMR butterflies ... but the clogged jets were the culprits.

Of course, using the chemicals in the air intake is simple enough to try ... and I probably would try it myself ... just don't get your hopes too high!

Good luck!

I have used the Ford and Seafoam. Overall, I'd go with the Seafoam. It was just as effective and was less expensive.