'99 Electrical Problem--Help Needed

I have a 99 model LX, that will not keep a battery charge. I have recently installed a new battery, and a new alternator. I continue to have the same problems.

Any ideas?

will it keep its charge through the day and over nite it wont crank.?? If so you have somthing pulling from the system.. Also did you have the system checked with a volt meter to make sure the charge is getting to the battery. If not do so it could be a relay somewere...hope this helps

Hi Jboler

I knew a guy locally with the same type of problem on his '98. It turned out his rear wiper was out of postion and continued to draw power in an attempt to "park" itself after the vehicle was shut off - that is what Ford said anyway.

Sleuthing these problems out is tough. What most would say to do is to hook up an ammeter "between" the battery and the van and check for/measure current draw. Then one-by-one remove a fuse and see if the draw is diminished with that particular fuse pulled. If so, you have narrowed down the items which might be your problem. You then have to check items on that particular fuse for electrical draw after you have shut down/switched off the van. It is a tedious process, but what a DIY'er must do to track a random electrical draw.

I of course assume you have checked the usual suspects of dome lights, glove box lights etc.

Good luck, let us know what you come up with.

will it keep its charge through the day and over nite it wont crank.?? If so you have somthing pulling from the system.. Also did you have the system checked with a volt meter to make sure the charge is getting to the battery. If not do so it could be a relay somewere...hope this helps

For the first couple of days, I could charge the battery over night, and it would run fine a couple of days. Then you would wake up, and it wouldn't turn over.

Now its actually surging while driving. I suspect that the cable between the battery and the alternator is bad. Is there anyway of testing that? Also, the parts store told me that this van could you either a 110 amp alternator, or 130 amp. I installed a 110. Could that be a potential problem?

Thanks.

If the line you think is bad such as frature or fray I could see there being a problem and if you have a fully equiped windstar you may have the wrong alt. The best way to check is to run a check on the system.. 14-15 volts should be going back to the battery not always true but anything lower than 12 its not getting it charge. as for the surge it possable its starving for amps..as the volts get to low to operate the system.. Advanced Auto or Autozone will do this for free or if you have a volt meter you can do it your self.

For the first couple of days, I could charge the battery over night, and it would run fine a couple of days. Then you would wake up, and it wouldn't turn over.

Now its actually surging while driving. I suspect that the cable between the battery and the alternator is bad. Is there anyway of testing that? Also, the parts store told me that this van could you either a 110 amp alternator, or 130 amp. I installed a 110. Could that be a potential problem?

Thanks.

Excellent advice here.

Do remembr that some items do continually draw current to keep the memory live (such as the radio presets etc) and the remote function as well as anti theft. These should be extremely low draws (a few milliamps or so).

Also if you have an ohmmeter inline with the battery do not attempt to start or turn on high currect devices as this may (will) fry the ammeter.

As was suggested ensure that you have 14 or more volts when the vehicle is operating indicating that the battery is charging. You should get at least 12.6 when the vehicle is off.

You could try after a good drive to disconnect the negative terminal and measure the battery voltage. then measure in the AM. This will tell you if the battery holds the charge without any drain.

I have a 99 LX 3.8 with the same prob. The fuel pump relay clicks like crazy even with no key in the ignition. The fuel pump sounds like its constantly trying to pump. I replaced the relay and the battery and was good for 2 years. This summer I heard the clicking again but it was so intermittent that I ignored it till this fall. The van was dead one morning. We jumped it and took it to the shop but they could not find anything wrong. I had them do the relay again and they charged the battery and we were good for 2 weeks. Died again. I gave the battery 6 amps overnight and were in good shape again. My best guess is that the relays are cheap and prone to freaking out in low voltage conditions causing rapid battery drain. My wife drives the van and takes many short trips which may not allow the battery to recharge leading to the low voltage situation. My plan is to trickle charge the battery once per month through the winter. Comments welcome.

I have a 99 LX 3.8 with the same prob. The fuel pump relay clicks like crazy even with no key in the ignition. The fuel pump sounds like its constantly trying to pump. I replaced the relay and the battery and was good for 2 years. This summer I heard the clicking again but it was so intermittent that I ignored it till this fall. The van was dead one morning. We jumped it and took it to the shop but they could not find anything wrong. I had them do the relay again and they charged the battery and we were good for 2 weeks. Died again. I gave the battery 6 amps overnight and were in good shape again. My best guess is that the relays are cheap and prone to freaking out in low voltage conditions causing rapid battery drain. My wife drives the van and takes many short trips which may not allow the battery to recharge leading to the low voltage situation. My plan is to trickle charge the battery once per month through the winter. Comments welcome.

I have never expierienced a relay problem first hand on my 99 but the symptoms you descriped in regards to the low level voltages and the effect on the relays and your theory is consistent with what others have suggested.

Are you on the original battery? Maybe it is not accepting the charge that well. Is there oxidation on the terminals or other end of the cables? Perhaps something else is draining your battery while the vehicle is running and is "stealing" power that would otherwise be avaible for the charging needs. A charging system should be able to "top" up the battery after a normal start fairly quickly.

Well now I am clueless. I've replaced the battery, replaced the 110amp alternator with a 130amp (all of which tested good), and still have the same problem. The charging system is quite simple, but I can't figure this out.

I'm at loss here. Is there a relay that could be causing this problem?

Well now I am clueless. I've replaced the battery, replaced the 110amp alternator with a 130amp (all of which tested good), and still have the same problem. The charging system is quite simple, but I can't figure this out.

I'm at loss here. Is there a relay that could be causing this problem?

Hello

With the engine running, put a volt meter across the battey terminals. You should get around 14.5 (above 13 anyway) volts.

If you think it's a relay causing trouble, with the battery disconnected, put an OHM meter across the battery cables, and see how many OHMs you get. Make sure things that could be on without the key are off. (ie. cel phone chareger....etc..) I'm not sure what's normal on a vehical that is functioning properly(hopefully someone else will fill this in for us), but if you see it's high start pulling fuses\relays\Maxi fuses. When you see it drop check out that area that the fues\relay... pertains to. This will take time.

Regards

Dan

I agree with Lasabremint.

If a battery does not have enough of a charge to start the car then either it is not charging correctly, the battery is not holding the charge or it is being drained excessively.

With the engine running, put a volt meter across the battey terminals. You should get around 14.5 (above 13 anyway) volts.

12.5 is as good as it gets. Usually, it's down between 11.5 and 12.

12.5 volts across the battery terminals while the engine is running is too low.

You could have purchased a defective alternator or battery. You could also have oxidation between the cables and terminals. I assume the regulator is part of the alternator.

Did you run the test will all of the accesories off? If not see if that makes a difference.

12.5 volts across the battery terminals while the engine is running is too low.

You could have purchased a defective alternator or battery. You could also have oxidation between the cables and terminals. I assume the regulator is part of the alternator.

Did you run the test will all of the accesories off? If not see if that makes a difference.

After the system failed, I took both the battery and the alternator off of the vehicle and Autozone test them. Both of them tested good. And it is my understanding that the regulator is built on to the alternator.

After the system failed, I took both the battery and the alternator off of the vehicle and Autozone test them. Both of them tested good. And it is my understanding that the regulator is built on to the alternator.

If you rule out the battery and the alternator then either:

1) The proper charge is not getting to the alternator because something else is drawing the current and there isn't enough left over for the battery.

2)There is resistance (Oxidation) in the path to the battery

3) The battery is being drained while the vehicle is off.

There's some good stuff above in this string.

In '99 the Windstar circuitry got really "detailed" ( I didn't want to say "complicated"). You really need a roadmap for some problems. You can order a circuit book from Helminc.com for $50 or less ... worth the money. Part number FCS-12255-99.

In the '99 glove box manual, fuse #6 is mentioned. Its in a special holder that makes it easy to disconnect without fully removing it. This fuse eliminates elect loads that you can do without until you find your problem.

The coil of the fuel pump relay gets a constant positive 12 volts, ... but the ground side of the coil is switched by the PCM (gets hairy don't it?). Therefore, the PCM power relay may be causing the fuel pump issue.

And let's not forget the old ignition switch. It's now a black electrical box low down on the steering column. When it starts failing, weird things can happen. Had to replace mine at about 70 kmiles.

I am on a replacement battery purchased 2 years ago. Ive been problem free for a week now. My wife makes several trips per day that are less than one mile. Can this drian the battery over time? Perhaps my charging system is on the week side too. I'll be sure to check back if I run into trouble.

99 died again. Will spend $$ tomorrow at the shop. Will let you know.

spent $$ for new battery. Battery had a intermiten short. Van starts every time now. No more dead battery :)

I had a new battery put in last week and I no longer have no start/dead battery issues however the still is a relay fuel pump issue. Periodically (with no key in the ignition) the fuel pump pumps constantly and relays/swithes under the hood click continuously. If I so much as sit in the drivers seat it stops. If I get out of the drivers seat it starts. No key, just get in and out of the van. Could it be a faulty fuel level switch? Anyway the battery is so strong we will probably get thru the winter/summer.

For non-charging issues......check fuse "T" in the engine compartment fuse / relay box.
It is a mini-fuse....and 15 amp.
I've changed that one.......
It will keep a perfectly good battery from charging with a perfectly good alternator. An alternator can blow this fuse when it fails. You put a new alternator in.....and still get no charging action....until you replace this fuse.

For fuel pump.....newer winstars than mine....have issues with the fuel pump relay....which is also in the engine compartment fuse / relay box.
More than a few posts in this forum on the relays in these newer cars failing....and causing no fuel pump operation....and intermittent....very strange symptoms fuel pump operation.

My 1996 has the fuel pump relay, Fan high/low relays, and AC compressor relays in the CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module). The PCM powers the relays..... I have the CCRM replacement information in my pictures at http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK

For my '96, they came out with a new and improved CCRM unit that has better sealed relays.
The problem was...in cold weather...you would drive for a while....long enough to get things nice and warm.....stop and shut off the car for about 15 minutes....and come back....engine cranks, no CEL...but no start....due to fuel pump not running......caused by moisture in the CCRM relay(s).
I have not seen posts in this forum on CCRM issues.....so there must not have been many in the past year.