Masking

Has anyone ever done a "How To" on masking the small parts? All I have found is masking for Flaming and using the Tamiya 40mm tape.

I am battling to mask the parts. Can anyone show me a short how to on the more "difficult to get around" parts.

~* gabbadude *~

what parts are you wanting to mask?

Had the very same problem with masking..

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=425638&highlight=masking

Have a read, if this doesn't help then you'll have to read some more examples.. It's hard, but I worked it out in the end. Read 360spider's reply.. His advice was sound..

The front and rear suspension of the Honda S2000.

Take a read of my progress thread of this model -

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=424897

First page shows how I masked the underchassis up.. It was real tricky but it can be done.

The front and rear suspension of the Honda S2000.

its in the tutorial section
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?s=&threadid=104625

its in the tutorial section
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?s=&threadid=104625

Ah sorry mis-read that.. Though he was having problems with the underchassis..

I never mask up these bits.. Just go at it free hand..!! I'm a bit lazy at times..

Thanks MickBench. It really helps to see that someone else had the same problems as me. Its a nightmare!! The paint ALWAYS bleeds.

What I want to know is how you get seven replies when youve had only one view :screwy:

Hehe, you noticed that too huh.

What I want to know is how you get seven replies when youve had only one view :screwy:

LOL :rofl: its 10 to 1

And counting. :)

Blu-tack or silly putty.

Murray

Blu-tack or silly putty.

Murray
Or Prestik as we call it in South Africa.

Prestik, So that's what blu-tack is. Prestik!! Ok kewl!

MickBench, Are those purple stains from burnishing? What do you use and what does that do for the masking?

I have found that white glue on small parts works great.
Place the glue on the part to mask it using a toothpick and let it dry. Paint and remove.

Its the same as using the liquid mask only cheaper.

Chris

MickBench, Are those purple stains from burnishing? What do you use and what does that do for the masking?

The purple is humbrol liquid mask, and it works for sealing corners etc.. It's no good for a straight line, but perfect for dabbing in the corners..

Also, blue tack works just as well, and white glue is good as well.

BTW - That rear axel you broke can be fixed, I know as I did the same as what you did to mine.. I know you didn't want to talk about it, but thought I would mention it..

Hectic! Did you also break the arm off?

Hectic! Did you also break the arm off?

Yeah, it was one the none build documented cocks up I made when I was building the model, and I made a fair amount of them on my model I can tell you. I pressed down on the gearbox when mounting into the subframe a little too hard and both axles snapped off... I used plastic cement to fix. I applied the cement to both ends and left it for around a minute, and then carefully attached the two ends and then mounted the part back into the rear sub frame, as this got me the correct shape and allowed it to dry. I left the part for a few days and then sanded best I could, primed and painted. It was a cock up I was able to fix, thankfully.

I'm surprised that the weight of the model doesn't break it again. Thanks. I will try and fix it

I'm surprised that the weight of the model doesn't break it again. Thanks. I will try and fix it

There is very little weight on the part once you get it installed and mounted to the sub frame and chassis.. The brake discs and rear uprights help to keep it all in place..

Well my model has been built for months now, and I can't see it bending or cracking, and so it must have worked...

Thanks Mickbench. It really helps what you have said. I really was feeling asthough it was the end for it. But maybe there is hope!! I'll let you know...