I could CRY!! But it's fixable...

For anyone who's interested, Jimmy Dludlu is also worth listening to :) :bigthumb:
Spot on and he's an ace guy. There's so much music that's not getting exposure outside S.A.

On the model, I decided to give it a last go with the sandpaper and put some serious elbow grease in this morning and it looks like I'll be able to get away with it without stripping it.

And if people think this threads too long then sorry but it's made a difference to how I approach removing paint. Almost every thread except this one says dip the model in DOT3/4 and I'd have just gone ahead with this method without the suggestions and advice from this thread.

In saying that leeturne, I am really glad I started this thread now. I fully agree. I have learned alot from the comments that everyone has made. Keep them coming.

I must say, I am quite impressed that there are quite a few people here that know South Africa. It really makes me feel welcome. :)

I also have to say thought, I have never heard of Jimmy Dludlu. I will look him up.

:banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

So I lay down a PERFECT PAINT JOB and the break line shows through. That's what I get for being an impatient Newbie!!

New Guys,....Take advice from me. BE PATIENT. I have truly learnt this lesson today. I have to strip again and respray.

But MPWR, I am using nail polish remover(Acetone Free) this time. I hope this is cool.

I will post pics when i can.

that's bad news but the good news is you learnrd smthg.

i'm not a very experienced modeler, but i really suggest you get grey primer to check your putty work is DEAD smooth b4 you start painting. In my experience (limited) it can take up to 5 rounds of putty/sanding till you r ready to go. check out m boxser, i snapped the A-frame.

PS sorry 4 bad spelling, but i posted this from my mobile :(

But MPWR, I am using nail polish remover(Acetone Free) this time. I hope this is cool.

I will post pics when i can.

Test it first! Soak some extra runner in the nail polish remover for a couple of days, and see what happens.

Meanwhile, are you sure it needs to be fully stripped? Can you sand out the area of the break, and just fill/prime/paint it? Lets see some pics!


As far as the alcohol, my grocery store carries 99% isopropyl, so this is what I tend to use. Obviously, the water content is pretty negligable, so it's pretty well all active ingredient. As long as you keep it covered so it doesn't evaporate, it doesn't doesn't seem to lose it's potency. The current batch I have is at least 10 months old, and I've striped several bodies in it, along with many, many other smaller parts. Still going strong. I haven't even bothered to filter it- I've just kept it in a covered reusable/disposable food storage container, large enough to soak a body in. That's my solution, and I'm sticking with it.

If you use something like 70% isop, as the alcohol evaporates out, the ratio of alcohol to water will go down- but probably not so much that you'll notice a change in performance (unless you leave it uncovered). The amount of alcohol in my batch is certainly less than it was (maybe down by 20-30% in 10 months), but if I need more, I'll just add more.

I keep a CSC type product for stripping enamels and chrome, (kit chrome must die!). I've learned the hard way to keep this stuff covered also. But as the vast majority of what I use is acrylics and lately some laquers, I don't use it much.

Test it first! Soak some extra runner in the nail polish remover for a couple of days, and see what happens.

I agree! I'd be a nevous wreck thinking what THAT might do to my model. Maybe nothing but....? ouch!

While you are waiting you can listen to some Black Monshine? :);)

MPWR, I agree with you on the kit chrome too :bigthumb: but it ain't gonna happen until the mass market modeler is going to use A2 or be happy with silver paint :( At best maybe we'll get 2 sets of parts- with and without chrome.

If ou ever decide to do a Scagi, let me know. I might be able to help yo out with an unchromed sprue.

well, Acetone free means that it doesn't melt plastic. It is the nail polish remover for false nails.

See what I mean. I have now stripped it twice. but I just can't seem to shake this indentation. I have put 2 layers of putty on it anf I have done so much sanding to try and get it level!!

Guys help out please...

http://www.bluesteam.net/images/other/IMG_2233.jpg

To me it looks like you just need to do more putty/sanding ad nauseum :)

What putty are you using? Tulene based or epoxy? Toulene putty shrinks and crackes as it dries out. Not such a big issue on small jobs but worth being aware of if you are filling larger areas. Check out Milliput on the www.

Are you letting it dry well before moving on? From the spped of your posts, I'm not so sure ;)
(or maybe I'm just jealous that you work so fast LOL)

There are some interesting looking Mr. Surface levelling products on HLJ, but they don't work miracles. IMHO you just need to do it again and again until it's perfect. You will get there, just not first time round :)

One thing I learned that helped me improve my sanding was to use a firm, rubber/sponge block and wrap my sandpaper around that for sanding - it helped me get MUCH better levelling than just holding the paper in my fingers. I've heard of the term "block sanding", I haven't a bloody clue what it means, but I'm guessing that it's just that.

Wait to see what others think though.

Thanks Kluts, I think you're right. I'm not being patient enough. I think it was about 3hrs in between putty and sanding. So I have now left it over night. 10hours. It should be dry now. I will sand today and let you know.

I'm using Tamiya Putty.

Resin is something different, never use brake fluid on resin, only owen cleaner.

This needs to be in the FAQ's in very BIG letters

I trashed a Porsche Veilside body kit this way, makes the resin go all floppy. :disappoin

I learned another valuale lesson. Don't dip ANYTHING in nail polish remover. Even the acetone free one. It makes the parts EXTREMELY brittle. I have to order spare parts now. It's going to take forever!!

Check it out guys!!!!! After alot, and I mean ALOT of putty and sanding and respraying I FINALLY got it the way I want it!!!! This might seem simple to you pro's but I'm quite proud of myself!

MickBench, What do you think :D

YEAH!!!

:D :smokin: :icon16: :grinno: :lol2: :cwm27: :rofl: :naughty: :sunglasse

Before
http://www.bluesteam.net/images/other/IMG_2233.jpg

After
http://www.bluesteam.net/images/other/IMG_2246.jpg http://www.bluesteam.net/images/other/IMG_2244.jpg

That's a lot better... Great save. If you hadn't posted the broken body on here, I don't think anyone would have known..

Most of the time, the mistakes can be fixed.. Just like this one has.. Unless you are building a Revell C5-R.. Another story..!! **shakes head**..

Congratulations! Looks good from this side of th globe ;)

Now start a WIP thread and show us the rest :)

Well, I'll give it another coat of primer cause the under body is showing through slightly and then I'll proceed to the colour. I will be starting the WIP thread soon. Thanks for your support guys!

hey, i finally got hold of some isopropyl. I have run into more problems and have to strip the paint down AGAIN!!!

NEVER SAY DIE!!!! I will keep trying until I get this right...

So, How does one actually use this alcohol stuff? Should I dip it in overnight or should i just wipe it off with cotton wool or something?

Please ignore this. I reread the entire thread and noticed that MPWR explained to dip it in a sealed container. bu my question is for how long, overnight?

As long as it takes. Acrylics will be gone in 10-15 min, laquers may take a day or so. Put it in the container, seal it, let it sit a couple of hours, check on it, if it's ready do a bit of scrubbing, if not, let it sit some more.

Now why are you stripping this time...?

Ummm.....I have PM'd you MPWR.

Now why are you stripping this time...?

Force of habit? :)

j/k - good luck and listen to an experienced voice.