96 SL2 turns over, won't start

I recently had a check eng light and ran the diagnostic on it. Was told the Camshaft/crankshaft pos'n sensor was faulty. I was able to drive with no problems until yesterday. I went outside and the car won't start. It turns over with no problems, just won't fire. I replace the position sensor today and still nothing. I know that I have fuel and air, but not sure about the spark. I tried the old screwdriver trick to the plug wire and saw nothing, but am not sure if I did it perfectly(I'm no mechanic....just stayed at the Holiday Inn Express last night :-) ).

What next without buying everything new and just guessing at where to start.

Thanks in advance,
Seth
96 SL2

I have a 95 SC2, and just had the same problem. The ignition module was bad and was making the ignition coils burn out. Sounds like it's the coil. Otherwise I recommend just calling Saturn.

Thats along the lines I was thinking. Is there a way to test the ignition module prior to spending 150 plus on one? How about the coils? Can I test those also (they are much cheaper to replace).

If anyone could help me out on how to test I would really appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,
Seth

I don't believe you can test the coils. But the module you can remove and take to most automotive shops and have it tested. I would call around to shops and see if they'll test for free. This was how I found out my module was bad. We simply brought it in and had it tested for free.
The module itself costed $100 straight from Saturn!
Saturns mean also get parts from Saturn. Cheaper and better quality, odd but true.

the camshaft code will not cause a no start on a saturn. the position sensor you replaced was most likely just the crankshaft position sensor. remove the plug wires from the coil and crank, if there is no spark tower to tower check all fuses, as the ignition module is not a common weak point on saturns. if you have spark, then your problem lays elsewhere(how did you test for fuel?)

the camshaft code will not cause a no start on a saturn. the position sensor you replaced was most likely just the crankshaft position sensor. remove the plug wires from the coil and crank, if there is no spark tower to tower check all fuses, as the ignition module is not a common weak point on saturns. if you have spark, then your problem lays elsewhere(how did you test for fuel?)

I didn't say the module was a weakness, but for the year of this car, it's common for the coil to go. Talk to any Saturn tech, they'll tell you the same thing.

okay...

I pulled the coils today and threw the ohm meter on them to try to see if they are good or not (I really have no clue about this, but went off of what someone told me). Both coils read on the ohm meter at 0.5. If both read this, I tend to believe they are good (unless both went bad at the same time). It there a way I can test the control module itself with a multimeter? I tried the local Advance Auto Parts and they don't test them. I have a hard time buying a new one if I truely don't know its bad.

What else in the system could it be that I can check myself. I have some common sense and have worked on cars in the past, but don't know all that much. If you have any ideas, could you be in depth about it for me?

thanks!
Seth

I think by doing what you did you ruled out the module. A faulty module would make the coils go bad. I'm outa ideas. Good luck in figuring it out.

did you see if there was a spark jumping tower to tower during cranking?

and althought i don't know the exact spec. i beleave 0.5 would be low but possible for the primary side(underside of coil), but for the secondary side(tower to tower) expect a reading between 8-16 Kohms

How about a way to test the Ignition Control Module with a multimeter? I think the coils may be good, but not sure how to test the ICM. There is a 5 wire plug that plugs into it....what wire is what? Can I test those? How about the module itself?

Does someone have a Haynes Manual for this model car that can help me out diagnosing this?

This is killing me!

Thanks for all the help so for, but everything listed above is good to go. I've also read about a CHIME fuse under the dash that makes things go weird....but that is good also.

HELP!

Seth

the hanyes manual says the same thing i did, check if a spark tower to tower, do you have spark?

the ignition module can not be tested itself with a multimeter. the inputs and outputs may be, but i need to know if you are geting spark frist.

the hanyes manual says the same thing i did, check if a spark tower to tower, do you have spark?

the ignition module can not be tested itself with a multimeter. the inputs and outputs may be, but i need to know if you are geting spark frist.

No spark tower to tower on either coil. Thanks for the help so far.....what next??

Seth

ignition module wiring diagram - http://www.saturnfans.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/18774/

check DIS fuse.

If you have a NOID light check for injectior pluse, if you have a pluse you can skip the next test, if you don't have a NOID light you must do the next test.

set multimeter on AC Volts, connect to crankshaft sensor. and crank engine. if you have no voltage replace or bench test crankshaft position sensor.

crankshaft position sensor bench test. ohms terminal to terminal = 900 ohms +/-200 ohm; terminal to housing = OFL; set meter to AC volts, connect leads to terminals, wave a peice of iron or steel infront of sensor(not alumnum) you should get some reading other then zero.

if the CPS checks fine but you have no spark and no injectior pluse you'll need a scantool.

check the ignition module connectior for ground at terminal B and power at terminal A.

if your multimeter is digital or you have a osilioscope and can backprobe- set for DC volts and check for a signal to terminals C and E(maybe 2 volts?, no more then 5)

if you have power and ground to the module and ether injectior pluse or a signal to C and E, but no spark, suspect the module(buy a cheap junkyard module to confirm)

Thanks. I'll give it all a try tomorrow after work and let you know how it goes.