How many mpg are you guys getting

It turns out that I'm older than dirt :uhoh:
I found out about a year ago that dirt replenishes it's self every 34 years.
And I'm 36

:lol::lol::lol::lol: That was good.

I gotcha beat there by four more . Wait till you get to the point where your back hurts when you stand in front of your blazer and think about leaning over the engine to do something. Rob

I gotcha beat there by four more . Wait till you get to the point where your back hurts when you stand in front of your blazer and think about leaning over the engine to do something. Rob
I feel that way at 24!!!!

I was there a few years ago too.

i feel like that most weeks (sometimes i work Frozen Foods section, bending over that coffin case. i go home limping because of the pain, can't stand straight for a few hours. and im almost 23.... this can't be all there is to live for??? working, and paying bills for a place that i never enjoy being at?

i feel like that most weeks (sometimes i work Frozen Foods section, bending over that coffin case. i go home limping because of the pain, can't stand straight for a few hours. and im almost 23.... this can't be all there is to live for??? working, and paying bills for a place that i never enjoy being at?
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA:lol2: Unless you are Rich welcome to the world of being an adult!

no doubt on that LT98, time to win the powerball jackpot.

Ugh, my ACHING back! I just got done with replacing my CPI spider and nut kit. While I had the top half of the intake torn apart, I replaced the cap and rotor bug, cleaned out *everything* to shiny aluminum inside the plenum on both halves, reaseated everything together with a fresh gasket. ($7.50 at NAPA for the plenum gasket, which is *cheap* - makes me want to pop the plenum when I need to reach other hard areas since replacing the gasket is lunch money.) While there, I got rid of the generic OEM replacement silicon "lifetime ignition wires" found at Autozone and put in a fresh set of AC/Delco "black beauties" on top of a stock Ac/Delco cap-n-rotor. Fresh plugs went in, they are AC/Delco Rapidfire (non-platinum) #1's gapped to .045. All of the boots properly greased with dielectric goop. Having had the oil pan's plug out for over a week, damn - there is A LOT of oil that sits in an engine that continues to drip out, the plug hole never went dry after periodically wiping it every few days. Installed a Fram #1 Suredrain plug, sealed with teflon in addition to a copper crush gasket. You just screw a hose into it and she drains the oil, fast as anything. Put the protective cap on before you fill up and she's golden.

Did a quick run on Supertech 5w-30 synthetic for about 300 miles - easy to do when you enjoy having your wheels BACK! Re-timed the engine after I was certain that it was running *right* Tanked up on Phillips-66 87 regular motion lotion after the gas gague dropped to 1/4 tank fuel left. Drained with the Suredrain bung, and when the oil stopped pouring out, disconnected the hose and put the cap back on. Filled up with German made Castrol Syntech 0w-30. Dropped the skids and the front wheels to grease my zerks, what the hell - I am already under the thing and DIRTY from laying face-down in the open plenum all morning. Put ANOTHER 200 miles on it before having to top off the tank and it only dropped to half a tank! (This is mixed but mostly local town and back street driving. I want to take a road-trip soon to get Highway mileage figures again) My baby's back and running more powerful, cleanly and quiet than ever before. My roomate did not believe me, but - I balanced a nickel on the front bumper with the engine idling. It stayed where I put it. :D Purrrrrrrs like a naughty kitten at idle, roars like a tiger, burning the rear wheels at launch and sounding SOLID through that FloPro 750. I get honks and people flashing their lights as I go by, one fellow shouting, "NICE TRUCK!" My Blue Beast Blazer is back with a vengeance folks.

Back to topic. Tons of stuff will affect fuel mileage. Letting a machine fall out of tune from neglect will cost you more in fuel costs alone these days. Drop the cash, fix the truck. She'll run strong and at her (or His if you are Girlbear) peak with a little TLC every few weeks and tuning up/fixing problem immediately when they arise...for *MUCH LESS MONEY* if you just ignore it and keep dumping gas in the tank. If you trace your fuel problems back to the injection system, especially on 93~95 vintage year trucks - get it fixed ASAP. It is harming more than just your gas mileage. If you have the skills and inclination, the mechanical work is easy. I took my time, since I had *never* taken apart the fuel injection on a CPI Blazer before. I cleaned everything up and used ALL of the new parts that came in the parts boxes, even discarding fasteners. Start to finish, CPI, Nut Kit, timing set, cap, rotor, plugs, wires and two oil changes over the course of this weekend to include a total front chassis lube and tire rotation was just 4 hours of my time. And I am am idiot, so you guys can do this stuff really easily.

Oh, and if you are trying to reach that #27 Torx screw back behind the block that holds the nut kit bracket in place, just go with a 1/4" ratchet with a compact, offset handle. Disconnecting the fuel and return lines with a flare nut wrench before you remove the bracket will make sure you don't round the nuts off on the lines and increase access space to the bracket screw. Removing the ignition cap and rotor and the electrical connection to the socket facing the driver's side will give you PLENTY of maneuvering room for your hands, finessing the bracket into place and make sure you don't drop your new Torx screw. ;) Lubricate the nut kit's O-rings on the metal recievers that pass through the back of the block and on the fuel injector with fresh engine oil. It will make assembly easier, assure a tight, no-leak seal the FIRST time and you won't tear them up when you pass them through the block and the orifices on the regulator body. *Never* re-use the metal clip that holds the fuel lines to the injector body. Use the new one that comes in the AC/Delco box for your spider kit. Pressure test before you close up by jumpering power from the battery to the test line against the driver's side passenger wheel well right next to the ABS unit. You will smell gas before you see the drip, and the first scent of fuel will be the strongest - do your best to locate the leaks before you get acustomed to the smell and recheck your work. If you botched the first o-ring installation on the injector body/fuel lines joint, discard them and *carefully* reinstall the lines with the second set of o-rings that come in the nut kit box. I lucked out, mine was fuel tight on the first shot. :bigthumb:

that sure drain plug is a life-saver (and and lease saver). I live in an apt. complex that allows NO work to be done on vehicles on their parking lot.... just jack up the truck, to get onder there, pretend like i'm changing a tire, and viola.

Hey Wolfox
After reading your post, (HOLY SH*T MY BACK WAS SORE JUST READING ALL THE STUFF YOU DID TO IT) You motivated me, so I went outside and washed and vacumed the truck out, I also put 35LBS of air in each tire.
Glad your back on the road again!

:smokin: :smokin: :smokin: :smokin:

DINO, If you feel like doing all that to my Blazer, Topaz, and motorhome I sure won't complain :biggrin:

Mike, That reminds me of when I lived in an apartment several years ago.
Although I did have an advantage. The managers turned a blind eye towards me and just left me do my wrench swinging. As long as my stall was left clean when I was done.
They even gave me the corner in the underground so that it was less visible.

Hey Wolfox
After reading your post, (HOLY SH*T MY BACK WAS SORE JUST READING ALL THE STUFF YOU DID TO IT) You motivated me, so I went outside and washed and vacumed the truck out, I also put 35LBS of air in each tire.
Glad your back on the road again!

:smokin: :smokin: :smokin: :smokin:
Don't forget to check out your air filter, it's six months old now.......

Shouldn't there be a Mod in here telling you guys to get back on topic???

Don't forget to check out your air filter, it's six months old now.......


:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

[QUOTE=OverBoardProject]DINO, If you feel like doing all that to my Blazer, Topaz, and motorhome I sure won't complain :biggrin:

AHHH No But Thanks For Asking :lol2: :lol2: :lol2:

Oh, that's way too much air. Carrying that much weight on your wheels just eats into your fuel efficiency. You want to lighten up there a little. *snicker* But yeah, I keep 35 PSI in my wheels. The truck rolls better on the BFGoodriches set to that. The wheels tend to howl when they get low. Got them rotated and rebalanced Sunday afternoon at the Walmart I bought them and a lifetime warranty from and the monkey in the bay "Underfilled them" back to the door pillar specs. I Buzzed 2 blocks down the road, pitched $0.50 into the air pump and brought them up to 35. Cruised home in a purring rig riding smooth as silk. The extra 3 PSI not only helps if you roll around with a back bed filled with gear and tools, but saves you a bit on gas. Makes the ride a bit harsher. I tried 37 PSI out of the 50 allowed by the sidewall on the tire and she would just bounce harshly on any bump.

Hey Wolfox
After reading your post, (HOLY SH*T MY BACK WAS SORE JUST READING ALL THE STUFF YOU DID TO IT) You motivated me, so I went outside and washed and vacumed the truck out, I also put 35LBS of air in each tire.
Glad your back on the road again!

:smokin: :smokin: :smokin: :smokin:

my blazer is lucky to get 12 mpg city, got luck at 16mpg highway a couple of weeks back. This is after a tune-up (cap,rotor,plugs,wires,fuel filter,air filter,cleaned MAF sensor). still getting lots of misfire codes.

If you have a CPI Blazer or a SMFI, a stuck open poppet valve can bleed all of your fuel pressure from the regulator body, which may be creating a lean miss-fire in the other cylinders. Try running two tanks of SUV-sized Techron additized fuel back to back and see if it picks up. Otherwise, well - you're looking at what I had to do, or at the very least, a dealer visit for them to blast a strong solvent through the offending SMFI injector or through the whole works if it's a CPI fired machine if you do not want to toss the whole assembly away over *one* injector.