Universal door lock Actuator will work on 2001

garync1,

what do you suggest I do? After dealer quoted me "between $300-400", I decided to tackle it myself. I do have all in one mechanism, I can see it. What I cannot see is whether the actuator is screwed or riveted into the mechanism, or just maybe "clicked" into some sort of box. I cannot see there. So my question is this: is there a way to get the whole mechanism out, and if so, does anybody have instructions on how to do it? If not, what do you recommend I do? I read the thread, looked at the pictures, but nothing looked like mine 1998 Windstar. Thanks so much. BTW, if anybody has rear AC blowing hot air only, I would be more than happy to help, as I just fixed it last week.

I often get a print-out of the exploded parts drwg from the Ford parts counter of whatever I am working on. It usually shows me how things go together better than the shop manual.

Have you priced the part at the Ford counter? It may be worth it to you to pay the extra bucks and get the new part in hand. The new part may give you just the info you need to remove the old part.

I did get the drawing at the parts counter. I also looked at the part. The problem is that while it shows that actuator clicks into the mechanism, it also shows a rivet. Ford did not have any kind of instructions manual on this (at least that's what I was told). So I wanted to get the part out and see for myself how the attachment works. I was able to disconnect only one of 2 rods, so I cannot get it out of the door. So I was just wondering if anybody on this forum was able to get it out by disconnecting both rods, and if so, how did the disconnect manual lock rod. It also appears to me what many people did was a kind of workaround where they just left the old actuator in place, spliced the cables leading there, and attached the new actuator to the door and the lock rod. I just wanted to try step 1 before proceeding to step 2.

You may have read my post above on 3-18-08 ... I've done the actuator on the '99's driver's door. I went with the Ford part for simplicity. I just don't remember any particular problem ... but that was a few months ago. This is a product of aging. I also don't remember rivets-vs-clips ... perhaps someone else does.

There is always some little trick-clip, or a special "twist", holding the rod ends in place. I usually have to get a small flashlight, and sometimes a small mirrow, to study things over before actually working on them.

garync1,

what do you suggest I do? After dealer quoted me "between $300-400", I decided to tackle it myself. I do have all in one mechanism, I can see it. What I cannot see is whether the actuator is screwed or riveted into the mechanism, or just maybe "clicked" into some sort of box. I cannot see there. So my question is this: is there a way to get the whole mechanism out, and if so, does anybody have instructions on how to do it? If not, what do you recommend I do? I read the thread, looked at the pictures, but nothing looked like mine 1998 Windstar. Thanks so much. BTW, if anybody has rear AC blowing hot air only, I would be more than happy to help, as I just fixed it last week.


You should be able to do the universal actuators if you want.. I know yours may differ but if they are power control, all you will need to do is find an area to mount them and use a test light to find the power for them.. If you use a test light you will push the lock button to unlock and start probing the wires to find which one lights up while you push and vise versa for the locking.. Then splice the wires in. Mounting the actuators can be just a little tricky because you will have to roll your window up and down to make sure it does not get in the way of rolling down your windows. I used a volt meter but a test light is far cheaper and and light right up when you find the wires while pushing the lock and unlock switch.. Mounting is not the hard ether. I was able to tie into bolts already there but drilling is not that big of a deal ether. I have done this on a Ford Exployer and F150.

Any way this is the type of actuators I use ebay has them on all the time.. You can even get just one from other sellers if that all you need..
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Power-Door-Lock-Actuators-Universal-360-Degree-Swivel_W0QQitemZ360081347829QQcmdZViewItem?hash=it em360081347829&_trkparms=72%3A552%7C39%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C2 40%3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

I do not promote any sellers on ebay so this is just an example.. You can buy from who ever you like on there.. If you like.. Just wanted to lead you to the right ones.. They are two wire set ups is all you need..

btt may help for below or above post

Almost 3 and a half years after the first reply to this subject, I finally changed out the driver's side actuator on our Windstar. Procrastination FTW!
I wimped out though, and got an OE replacement one from Autozone. $59. Now I can lock/unlock the door again with the remote.

Almost 3 and a half years after the first reply to this subject, I finally changed out the driver's side actuator on our Windstar. Procrastination FTW!
I wimped out though, and got an OE replacement one from Autozone. $59. Now I can lock/unlock the door again with the remote.


Hey I am glad you got it done. i am also glad some parts stores have these now. My way was just a cheap route at the time.. Seeing how the dealer was breaking the banks of some folks. Well maybe not breaking there bank accounts but putting a nice dent in them.. I will say my way has held up longer than I thought. But glad to know now it was a cheap way around things that was not really that hard to do.

I'm here to report another success story using the cheapie ebay actuators! About 3 hours, all told, for the front passenger door. I bought two universal actuators for about $17 shipped, and it went as described on my '03. I also cut the harness wires to splice into, as the new actuator had banana-type plugs (that I also cut off and stripped to splice). A colleague still has my soldering station, so I couldn't do it the right way (though I could have gotten some shrink tubing). I ended up twisting the conductors to splice, then used electrical tape to seal and isolate the joints. Works like a charm- thanks gary!!!!

Hi,
I just wanted to report that I used the above procedure on my 2000 Windstar.
I used the universal two wire type. Mounted as stated above. Note that the wire colors were red from van to green from actuator and yellow/mixed from van to blue from actuator. These are the same colors shown in the link to the pictures/blog but are different than in the original post.
All lock functions seem to work fine now. This was for my drivers side front door.

Just updating an old thread but i bought the OE replacement part took the door panel off but cant figure out how to unhook the actuator from INSIDE the door i got the wires unhooked but is there a special way to actually get the actuator OUT and push the new one in OE part cost my $64 and currently resides under the seat with the replacement HID bulbs any one with pictures or know how to get it out with some sort of ease please help as i was crushed in between my bumper and another car at christmas and have since developed lower back issues and knee problems so i cannot tackle this for very long at a time

Thanks

Ah yes, the dreaded Ford door lock actuators and not to follow too soon afterwards the electric windows and the electric sliding doors...but I digress. ;-)

I just happen to have to work on the same problem once again so things are fresh. Did you try unscrewing the outside door handle? There also is a yellow (on mine) snap open and closed rod end keeper that needs to be popped open to disconnect the rod between the outer door handle and the latch and lock mechanism. All of that will have to come out with the actuator attached to then remove it from the lock/latch, which should be obvious the three Torx screws need to be removed last. There probably will be at least two rods you will need to disconnect to get it out.

JFYI, I have found it very helpful to have an appropriate height chair, object to sit on to ease the back strain while working on the door and something soft on the ground if I have to kneel. Fixing the electric window takes a long time.

Good luck.

Ah yes, the dreaded Ford door lock actuators and not to follow too soon afterwards the electric windows and the electric sliding doors...but I digress. ;-)

I just happen to have to work on the same problem once again so things are fresh. Did you try unscrewing the outside door handle? There also is a yellow (on mine) snap open and closed rod end keeper that needs to be popped open to disconnect the rod between the outer door handle and the latch and lock mechanism. All of that will have to come out with the actuator attached to then remove it from the lock/latch, which should be obvious the three Torx screws need to be removed last. There probably will be at least two rods you will need to disconnect to get it out.

JFYI, I have found it very helpful to have an appropriate height chair, object to sit on to ease the back strain while working on the door and something soft on the ground if I have to kneel. Fixing the electric window takes a long time.

Good luck.

Hi thanks for the info i will try and tackle it again next weekend but the actuator i have looks like it snaps into place and the one in the door doesn't feel like its bolted down either and going by the youtube video it should just pop out but these guys are professionals and always make it look easier than it truly is but i will look at it again just thought i would try it after doing a heater core on my brothers 99 taurus after removing the dash and being a contortionist trying to fit into the foot wells and such my back won't take it again for a bit so i will just manually lock and unlock it as i forgot to reattach the power lock wire.... but again thanks for any and all input this is the actuator i have

Congratulations on your successful heater core transplant. I've been back there too....sigh.

The actuator does snap into place on the lock/latch mechanism, but I never found it to be realistic or even possible to actually separate the two while still inside the door. The actuator very tightly slides on and off the lock/latch mechanism, but to remove it you have to depress a tang much like that on an OEM auto wiring connector, which you should be able to see on your replacement part.

For me, it would not be possible to work on and see what I was doing inside the door to try to remove just the actuator because it's such a tight space with very limited visibility. That said, just keep good track of where on the rods they connect at the connectors, say with a Sharpee, etc., to be sure they get returned to their original spot or they may be out of adjustment and won't work or not work well.

won't be able to tackle this for a bit (Threw out my back lifting an 18Kg box of cat litter and temps in the low to mid 30's don't help) might just find a ford mechanic that does side jobs and see if that works i just thought it looked easy looking at the actuator itself..... or when i get the stereo put in i can ask the installer if they can do it... i don't know i don't want to do to much as after being hit by a car i think we are being watched by the insurance corp. oh well another day on the couch with NOTHING on tv:frown:

Sorry to hear about your back, but I'll take your thirties over my humid nineties here in Virginia. What part of Canada are you to have daytime temps like those? Must get crazy cold where you are in the winter. My condolences. Must be hard to get anything done outside and stir crazy inside with that kind of snow and cold. I'd have to reprioritize getting a fully enclosed garage/shop if I was up your way instead of the wide open, substandard, leaky roof pole shed.

Sorry to hear about your back, but I'll take your thirties over my humid nineties here in Virginia. What part of Canada are you to have daytime temps like those? Must get crazy cold where you are in the winter. My condolences. Must be hard to get anything done outside and stir crazy inside with that kind of snow and cold. I'd have to reprioritize getting a fully enclosed garage/shop if I was up your way instead of the wide open, substandard, leaky roof pole shed.

Thanks but today it was 34c and cloudy with a chance of showers which happened and made it muggy, i keep forgetting that in canada we have celcius and you have Fahrenheit. Last winter i was only in a sweatshirt so it didn't get that cold i think that British Columbia is turning tropical...LOL... but i do have a garage (Enclosed) but being the only vehicle i can only tackle small things as as soon as i tackle bigger jobs someone needs the van.... i am looking for a small car so i can pick away at the things that have been bugging me since i got the van but thats a whole different forum. i might just drop this van and buy a new one with more options that i found for 1300 dollars