The ultimate project: 1/12 Tamiya McLaren MP 4/6

Superb work :bigthumb:

thanks for the comments guys.
Sadly there was a long time without updates "again" :shakehead... I was quite busy with learning for my final examination of my apprenticeship which took place in early december and january. I got the results yesterday and I passed with a really good result :cheers: But enough of that.. :iceslolan
So now I have time again to work on the model and I hope I can post the next update soon. Meanwhile two pics of the AZRM aluminium anodized wheel set for my MP 4/6... :popcorn:

http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_6362333865616435.jpg
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3339313161373962.jpg

hey, great build! good to see some updates. Those rims look aggressive :)

Superb job on brakes, and... also those rims are great: could you please say more about the manufacturer?

This is really an ultimate project~ :worshippy

This is... a piece of ART! Truly, deeply amazing!

could you please say more about the manufacturer?

The manufacturer is the owner of this shop Mac's Modeling (http://www.macsmodeling.com/index.htm), the parts are sold under the name of Arizona Racing Models (AZRM), just look at the 1/12 shop and you will find the wheels.

http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_6637353138626239.jpg
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_6266323362353461.jpg

Wow! $175 just for the wheels?

Very impressive brakes! Your engine looks amazing,I thought it was the real thing.The wheels too are very impressive.Quite expensive,but when you consider the work that goes into the production of them the price is very reasonable.

What a super build I have to get one some day just love it :)

Duuude! This is crazy...good crazy. Awesome build!

Wow! $175 just for the wheels?

I love our hobby!

Anyone who spends that much for wheels is well,...................LIKE ME!

Good find, they are beautiful.

first post. this build is absolutely stunning!
may be u can build a carrera GT after this as i don't see many of that were built here.

Shoot, here I thought there was an update, got all comfortable and everything.

Mike.

Superb job on brakes, and... also those rims are great: could you please say more about the manufacturer?

Arizona Racing Models - aka Mac's Modeling. (http://www.macsmodeling.com/index.htm)

oops. responded before reading all the responses.

Wow! $175 just for the wheels?

I pre-ordered them so I got them a bit cheaper :wink: but they look absolutly stunning and I would buy them again...

first post. this build is absolutely stunning!
may be u can build a carrera GT after this as i don't see many of that were built here.

mhh.. I have the kit in my to do pile but I am afraid the Model Factory Hiro Aston Martin DB-R9 will be the next one...:licka:



Shoot, here I thought there was an update, got all comfortable and everything.

Mike.

Hey Mike... upda..what? sorry just kidding. You got all comfortable and everything? Wow I feel honored :wink: and to give something back I dedicate this one to you :grinno: :grinno:

UPDATE
You probably remember the engine
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_6362613832333635.jpg

I was quite happy with the look even after the "incident" (some pages earlier) but after that the next disaster wasn't far away...
As I wrote in the wip I painted the engine block and gearbox with Revell semi gloss black which was the biggest mistake I could have done... While handling the engine to drill some holes for AN Fittings etc. the paint started to rub off (and I was really careful, just like a modeler :grinyes:) and as you can imagine I was really ****** off... I had the same problem on my SLR with the Revell Paint and after that I switched to Finisher's paint which is way better in every aspect. So same plan for the MP 4/6... I stripped the engine :crying: :crying: (don't ask I didn't take any pics :wink:)
But I saved the valve covers, oil reserviors and some other small things :smokin:

But these things are part of the fun, right? Ok not really but I saw the positive thing about it "I can add more details"... there were also some gaps at the gearbox I wasn't happy about...
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_6133633038633862.jpg


But filling these is a problem because you have to insert the suspension parts before "closing" the gearbox. And if you insert them and close the gearbox you can't paint it because the suspension parts are black.. I hope you get what I mean if not here's a pic from the instructions :p
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/400_3236346464323439.jpg
High-Res click (http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3236346464323439.jpg)

I started to remove the gearbox from the engine mainly for easier painting (sanding) and detailing.
And this is how I solved the problem... I saw (PE-saw) all the suspension parts in half and inserted little pins to the ends so they can be "plugged" together afterwards. And that's it now you can glue all the gearbox parts together, paint them and later insert the suspension parts...
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3231336364633830.jpg
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3934626438616331.jpg

So this is how it looks after some filling and sanding with the suspension parts fitted after all the other parts where glued together. I also drilled many holes for bolts etc. I will use more real bolts (like the ones from Scalehardware.com) which replace many PE bolts...
The 4 pins you see on the front of the gearbox are simply for helping me to get the exact position when glue it to the engine
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3431656433353231.jpg
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3138393936613433.jpg

I had to come up with a little plan that I don't forget all the things I wanted to add and most important to put the right bolt in the right hole. I took a storage box and wrote numbers on the trays. Then simply took a pic of the gearbox and marked the holes. I now have about 60 parts (bolts, nuts etc) just for the gearbox :screwy:
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/400_3766363731343837.jpg
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_6430313034616561.jpg
There are also some awesome RB Motion velocity stacks in there :wink:
Ok enough of that boring stuff :)

Big news... I got myself a lathe a mini-lathe to be exact.
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3532636635333433.jpg

It took some time to get everything to the right place or better to get some space at all. Even mini isn't that mini :licka:
Also setting up the lathe was quite time consuming and the first steps where quite an adventure for a complete machining beginner but I managed it and I'm really happy with it.
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3532636635333433.jpg

I added two things a quick change tool post (QCTP) and a digital read-out set. I had a hard time with the normal dials at first and learned some lessons. You get used to everything so after some practice it worked very well but nonetheless the digital displays make it way easier (for me atleast).
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3032633532303363.jpg


And what's the first part I made for the MP 4/6?
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3763396164346638.jpg


right, new rear shocks! When looking at my reference pictures and then looking at the Perfect Parts rear shocks, you quickly see that they are really "basic". So I made some measures and developed (that sounds cool eh? :lol: ) my own rear shocks. Another thing to get used to was a CAD program to make drawings. I mean it's great to make some parts but it's even better if I can make them again (with the same measures). So I am doing every part on the PC before actually making it which cost me a lot of time at first. CAD programms can be really frustrating if you don't know how to use them...

here's a comparison shot of a drawing between mine (V1.0, I'm at 1.3 currently :wink:) and the perfect parts rear shocks
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/400_3463323965336264.jpg
High-Res click (http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3463323965336264.jpg)

Now to the actual parts, this is the current version of my rear shocks. Which are almost good only some minor changes and they should be fine. I will be using the top/head? (I don't know what it's called in english) of the kit parts because I can't make them myself...
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_6365356130363062.jpg

comparison with the perfect parts on the right and mine on the left. You see the "ugly" PE Part on the PP parts? That's for the mounting hardware which is in the PP set also a PE part (you can see the PP shocks (assembled) I original used on one of the first pages of the thread). I made a smaller hole in mine from the beginning so I can insert a rod end from RB Motion which hopefully arrive soon :rolleyes:
and I don't want to praise myself but I like the finish on my parts way more :grinno:
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3539653631646664.jpg

This shows some different versions I made, on the left is the current design and on the right the first. They are not much different but as you can see my maching skill was not that good for the first version :nono:. Then I quickly changed my mind and practiced a lot more before making the next "modelparts"..
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3765343536353361.jpg

One last pic of my current design, I didn't even cleaned it up carefully just to take a quick pic for you Mike :grinno:
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_6663386438656235.jpg

I have many more ideas for some turned parts like coolant overflow/pressure regulator reservoir, little connectors for all the braided tube and hoses (I hope to get these small things done..), throttle linkage and much more.


Ok that's it for now. I hope you don't mind that I posted the new pics with a resolution of 800x600, I guess I made a little mistake when resizing them...
I actually wanted to wait till I have painted the engine + gearbox so I can show you some more things but since you guys brought this thread up again I had to do something :wink:


I hope you still enjoy this thread... till the next update

I have the kit in my to do pile but I am afraid the Model Factory Hiro Aston Martin DB-R9 will be the next one...:licka:

Oh sh$t I better get started on mine, that way I don't have to one up you. :grinyes:


Hey Mike... upda..what? sorry just kidding. You got all comfortable and everything? Wow I feel honored :wink: and to give something back I dedicate this one to you :grinno: :grinno:


Aww Shucks, an update just for me :sunglasse :sunglasse

Great update, sorry to hear about the engine, but it looks like it worked out for the better. Congrats on the lathe, I love mine, how did you drill the holes in the sides of the shocks? The finish looks very good, thats from the sharp tools. I like your CAD drawings, and here I am just scribbling on a piece of graph paper. Keep up the good work. I'm going to push my MP4/6 to the back of the closet.

Mike.

That is some lovely work with the new toy....

Welcome to the lathe club Dennis! I must say your shocks look much better than my first effort!
I saw that last update was just for Mike, can I have one now just for me?.......now! :grinyes:

COngratulations on your new "toy" and even bigger congratulations on putting it to great use straight away! :thumbsup:

Thanks guys!!!

Congrats on the lathe, I love mine, how did you drill the holes in the sides of the shocks?

Before I got to the actual diameter of the shock (like 0,4mm more or so) I advanced the tool (at the right place of course) until it just touched the work piece so it creates a little groove. Then I used a center punch (the smallest I have, the hole is only 0,8mm) to "mark" the hole, then used a pin vise and started to drill it out by hand since they are made of aluminium that's not a big deal. After that I simply continued machining it to the right dimensions.

I saw that last update was just for Mike, can I have one now just for me?.......now! :grinyes:

The last "now" might be a problem but if you get all comfortable and everything when you see a reply to this thread we might can work something out :grinno: :grinno: :grinno:

Nice to have a lathe, no?

I'm still waiting for mine............:banghead:

NIce schoks you've made.

Incredible skills you have!

Jamme

This hobby is moving to a new level, isn't it....

Murray

Great job as ever , man. First turning job seem fantastic: also I gues you have some great cutters.

I own the Einhell too (MTB 3000) : have you rebuilt it? I didn't but my still having some games. 2nd question: could you say me where you purchased digit set and the quick tools fastener? Thanks in advance.

I own the Einhell too (MTB 3000) : have you rebuilt it? I didn't but my still having some games. 2nd question: could you say me where you purchased digit set and the quick tools fastener? Thanks in advance.

I disassembled almost everything to clean the lathe since it comes covered with grease... then I put everything back together and made all the adjustments for the cross-slide, saddle and so on. Incase you don't know this site take a look at mini-lathe.com (http://www.mini-lathe.com/). There a tons of tips and how to's. I bought the digital read out set (DRO) and other parts at LittleMachineShop (https://www.littlemachineshop.com/), maybe the best shop for the mini lathe. They have a great service!

Yep I meant those: I didn't, just quick WD40 clean-up ;), I know the site, Mike and I guess Andy said me about: thanks for the shop's link.

How are the digital readouts working for you? I wanted to buy them at Dortmund for mine, but the seller plain told me to stay away from them because they don't measure the movement of the slides but the turns of the handle, so they show you movement while you don't have any in the beginning ( because of the "game" in the setup...) and after all that's the whole point of getting the readout...to avoid the "game".
It does work fine on my mill now....

Amazing... I don't know what else to say... This is too much for me to handle. Very nice job~ I am interested to see more of your work on this~

How are the digital readouts working for you? I wanted to buy them at Dortmund for mine, but the seller plain told me to stay away from them because they don't measure the movement of the slides but the turns of the handle, so they show you movement while you don't have any in the beginning ( because of the "game" in the setup...) and after all that's the whole point of getting the readout...to avoid the "game".
It does work fine on my mill now....

Yes you are right, they measure the turn of the handle which is a little problem because of the backlash as you said but if you take up the backlash before zeroing the unit or beginning a cut your're fine. Sure it's annoying if you forget it and remove to much material but as soon as you get used to it it's quite accurate and I'm happy with it. But keep in mind, it's mini lathe quality and I opened both units, cleaned them and "tuned" them a bit.

There's a really good review of the set on mini-lathe.com. He descripes the "problems" and made a "accuracy test". He explains it also way better then me with my poor english :licka:. Worth a read if you're interested in the set. here's the link (http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Reviews/Sieg_DRO/dro2.htm)

There are also way better and more expensive DRO sets out there but for my use this is more than enough...:wink:

Dennis and G - I have the same lathe too but mine's sold in the UK under the Clarke name. Interesting to see that you've both been to the same website and read up, as I did - it's full of valuable info. I stripped my lathe from the get-go and have done a fair bit of 'tuning up' - though I'm no expert with the lathe yet.

What I would recommend is getting one or two spare nuts for the cross-slide screw. You may have noticed already that this nut can be twisted slightly to reduce cross-slide play by using the two allen bolts that go through the cross-slide under the tool post - however, the nuts are only soft bronze and the two threads can strip very easily. I've also found that the nut thread itself wears on the cross-slide screw and needs regular 'tweaking' so it makes sense to have spares just in case. They're cheap - I bought a few just in case they get hard to find in the future.

Also Dennis, can you show us the tool that you used to cut those narrow grooves please. This is one thing that I can't get right yet as I think all my tools are too wide!:banghead:

Your work is truly inspiring! Kudos to you!

You know, sometimes I actually believe I have some modelling skills, and when I feel to superior, I watch this thread... And I always feel very humble again :eek:

this is incredible. an inspiration.

Brilliant work!

Also Dennis, can you show us the tool that you used to cut those narrow grooves please. This is one thing that I can't get right yet as I think all my tools are too wide!:banghead:

You stealed my answer LOL! Yep I meant the same: I narrowed a straight cutting tool (seamed insert) to 0.8mm wide but I broken the vidia insert after few second!!!!!

I ever though my lathe was crap but after I know that Jay and Thyesaint have same I suppose also mine is great ROFL!!!!

Really pleased to see you back on this one Saint - I would be devasted having to start that motor again though but Im sure its gonna look even better - even though it was stunning before.

cant believe I've only been away for a couple of weeks and come back to find two of the best threads on here and alive again - keep up the great work matey.

This model should be insparational for every modeler in the world. The additino of the lathe just puts it over the top. THIS IS AWESOME!!!!!!! Equally amazing is that you have accomplished this much so far! I will keep updated as always--and will never build this kit.:grinno:

Hi Thesaint111, could you tell me from where you bought the Perfect Parts kits for your McLaren?

Hi Thesaint111, could you tell me from where you bought the Perfect Parts kits for your McLaren?

These parts are only available at www.racingminiatures.com (http://www.racingminiatures.com). The site is currently undergoing some-rework so it's down for now.

The PP set is very hard to come by and goes through small batches of production once-in-a-while. It's almost impossible to get at this point.

I got lucky and managed to get my hands on 4 brake detail sets and 2 each of the MP4/6 and F641/2 photoetch sets.

Thunder Valley F1 releasing some big scale F1 stuff that is supposed to be much better than the PP items.

Btw, there have been no updates for a while, what's going on??

is there a recent update to this thread?

:eek2: :eek2: :eek2: Really out of this world !!!!!!!

Any progress on this build??

Thanks guys and also thanks to all the people who contacted me about the build via pm.

Sadly there was not much progress during the last couple of months. I hope to get back to it soon. But I have to finish the Aston first were I made some good progress.

And as soon as I get back to it you guys will be the first to know and see it. Just incase somebody thought that I forgot about the thread :p

The absolute BEST, most AMAZING and inspiring modeling I have ever seen. Looking at your stuff makes me wonder why I even try? If God built a model it would look like yours. I've just read through 15 pages of updates and comments and I'm absolutely blown away! You are AWESOME!!!!!!!!!:ylsuper:

Any progress on this unbelievable build mate?

Hi!!

I'm very interested in your build, and after my finished F40 I will start the McLaren. Well at first, a big respect, very very nice build, a dream :) So you said this will be a long long build, but perhaps you can tell us if there is any progress on this stunning build? Would be nice to see more pictures :smokin:

Greets Woody

Wow it has been a while since there has been any activity here. It would be great to see an update on this beautiful work. I have had two of these to build and I look like getting the time to devote to it so revisiting this thread as well as Bil's build was a must. I have just parted with some serious bread for a PP kit and would love to get a look at the Formula Perfect manual.
I remember seeing some info on a thread regarding scanned copies of the Formula Perfect manual for this model. Can anybody help?

Yesss, finally got a Mp4/6 from the internet. Engine was already done so I had to dissmantle it and start all over again. These pictures are perfect to do this :tongue: I hope this WIP will continue!

Best regards
Laurens

sorry guys, no updates even after years :frown:
I simply haven't got the time to do any work on this or any other of my projects... But as I said before I will update this thread when I continue to work on it.

any progress on this project?????????

Hi all, I have been lurking on these forums for a while since initially finding this thread. It was the post that got me started on my build and is at the level of detail I am aspiring to. I actually started mu build about a year ago but have been learning how to do a lot of stuff - including how to use a lathe and a mill. I decided to set up my own blog site to track the progress of my build and turn it in to a hub of useful information. If anyone is interested the link is in my signature. For some reason I can't insert any pictures in to this post though - none of the editing icons seem to work :-(