Transmission change problem

Hi,
After driving on the motorway today, I have noticed that the kick down from 5th to 4th is not smooth, and causes a "clonk" sound, and the car judders.
I also get the same effect when I use the tip-tronic shift down from 5th to 4th.

What would cause this?

All other gears up and down are fine

Pls help
Many thanks
Amo
2002 Shogun/Pajero/Montero 3.2 Di-d Equippe LWB

Had exactly the same problem with my 97 Pajero 3.5 GDI. Try adding some PowerUp NNl690G additive (100ml) to the tranny and your problem will go away. Apparently, this is a common problem with the autos (sticking valves, I'm told) and the additive will help lubricate the parts. If you still have problems you may have to get your tranny oil replaced and flushed. Make sure you use the correct oil as the cheapy stuff won't work.

Good luck and post your results.

Jim
NZ

Hi,
What is PowerUp NNl690G additive.
I live in the UK.

THanks

Amolak

Hi,
What is PowerUp NNl690G additive.
I live in the UK.

THanks

Amolak

I'm not sure if they have in the UK but we have in NZ and it is made in the States so I would think that they have a distributor there. I have attached the NZ website below for you to look at. There may be other additives you can use which may do the trick. Otherwise, it is best to get you tranny fluid changed and flushed as this will free up the valves. Don't leave to long or else you will have some mechanical damage to contend with as well. Let me know how you get on.

Jim

www.powerupnz.co.nz

Hi,
I was told that if you change the transmission fluid, only about 30% comes out as the rest of it stays inside the (er,, cant remember the name of the part).
Another specialist told me never to add any additive, and that the fluid never needs to be replaced.

I dont know what to do?? :shakehead :shakehead

Maybe I will get the fluid replaced.

Amola

They make specific additives (generally synthetic) for auto trans so it is OK to use. In the olden days you didn't need to change the oil as it was only mineral oil with no additives. In modern times the oil is based on mineral oil but has many synthetic additives in it. Over time the additives disapate and should be replaced.

If you change the oil all is not recovered and usually the "gunk" is left inside attached to the filter ports and the internal filter itself. To rectify you should flush the fluid through and then re-fill with new oil which is why it is so expensive. Not every mechanical shop has the equipment to flush so they generally just dump and re-fill.

My advice would be to try an auto transmission additive to see if it solves the problem. If you do not notice any improvements then bring in and have fluid flushed and replaced with manufactures recomended spec.

Jim

Hi, What do they use to flush the transmission with?
thanks
Amo

Hi,
Spoke to a local tranny specialist. He said that if it was a valve problem, then it would also occur on the upshift.
He said it is more likely an ECU problem.
thanks
Amolak

They flush the system with the same hydroulic fluid they use to fill the tranny with. Sometimes they may use 5 litres to flush and approx 10 to fill.

Another thing you may try if you believe it is the ECU causing the transmission problem is running a higher octanefuel. GDI motors are supposto run premium which is about 96oct which also has a benifit of lower sulfur levels. I ran this and it did help the tranny problem initially and it also gave me alot more performance. The additive I put into the tranny fixed the problem right away and I had problems with not shifting down from 4th just like you. This is why it shuttered because it was in to high of gear for the driving speed.

All I can say is give it a try to see if it makes a difference. If it doesn't work dump the oil and flush.

Jim
NZ

Hi,
My engine is the D-id (diesel) 3200.
I use the BP Ultima diesel which is the top grade diesel.
Would try an additive but dont know which to try in the uk.
tx
Amo

Hi,
What do u think of this product:
http://www.3d-transmissions.co.uk/gearbox_lubes.html

thanks
Amolak

Sorry for my ignorance Amo, I thought you had a petrol model. Don't know about how the diesels work in relation to the ECU. I doubt that this is your problem though.

The link you sent looks good. I think that most of the additives are much the same. Going back to my original advice, I would give it a try and see if it makes a noticeable difference. If not, you havn't wasted much time or $$ and you can then flush & change the fluid. Generally the trannys have been playing up around 90k on the clock. You havn't mentioned your milage but I assume that being a 2002 it doesn't have that much.

Another train of thought. I believe that your model is equiped with the "adaptive" transmission. This tranny is supposto monitor your driving and adapt to how you drive. You can reset this by getting Mitsi to re-boot your system or I think by dissconnecting you battery for 10 minutes. I have heard that it takes approx 30min to measure your driving techniques. Maybe it got its tits in a tangle somewhere along the line. Stranger things have happened!

Jim
NZ

Hi,
It has 36k on the clock, and yes it has adaptive transmission,
Will try this product next week.
Cheers
Amo

Hi, Tried lube gard. Still same fault.

Amo

i have 2001 fullside montero, I have the clunking sound when drive 40 to 50 miles/hour and release the gas padel completely then step on gas pedal little hard the clunking sound occurs. and it is happen when it donw shiff too but not offen. the mistsubushi claim that the sound is normal, the sound comes from the movement off rear differental. it is only happen to 2001 and 2002, the 2003 is redesign to fit that problem. mitsubishi not going to take car the problem on 2001 and 2002.

my mit has rear independent suspension

Hi,
Mine only occurs when I down shift from 5 to 4, by pressing the pedal hard.
Cheers
Amo

Amo, we may have different problems tha orginally discussed. Mine shifts from 5th to 4th very well when pressing the accelerator hard but not so go when I'm light on the petal. Things have got better since I started running a better fuel (98 oct) with definite problems on the high sulfur low octane rating. Have you thought of trying some diesel additive to try and clean out the injectors and boost the fuel performance? I know it sound strange but there is a definite corelation between fuel and transmission performance with the petrol models (ECU I presume).

Did you ever get the tranny flushed?

Jim
NZ

Hi,
I already use BP ULTIMA Diesel.
It is the best and has additives.
I have not had the tranny flushed.
thanks
Amo

Hi,
I already use BP ULTIMA Diesel.
It is the best and has additives.
I have not had the tranny flushed.
thanks
Amo

Amo,

Any progress reports on this problem? Even with the additive I used I still get the occasional engine stutter and transmission hick-up especially when I run a lower grade fuel. Would like to know if you flushed the tranny and if it made a diff.

Jim

hi,
I just learned to live with it.
tx
Amo

Hi,
This problem has been fixed by disconnecting the battery for 30mins.
Im amazed!!!!, it was all due to the computer needing to be reset.
cheers
AMo

i have 2001 fullside montero, I have the clunking sound when drive 40 to 50 miles/hour and release the gas padel completely then step on gas pedal little hard the clunking sound occurs. and it is happen when it donw shiff too but not offen. the mistsubushi claim that the sound is normal, the sound comes from the movement off rear differental. it is only happen to 2001 and 2002, the 2003 is redesign to fit that problem. mitsubishi not going to take car the problem on 2001 and 2002.

my mit has rear independent suspension

The clunking sound could be spline wear in the output shaft where it fits into the transfer case (I am repairing a 2000 model pajero at the moment with this problem with 120,000km on the clock)
The splines have almost gone on both components. Hope this information helps

Hi,
This problem has been fixed by disconnecting the battery for 30mins.
Im amazed!!!!, it was all due to the computer needing to be reset.
cheers
AMo

Glad you got the problem sorted. Just found out my ECU is faulty after some strange idling and engine knock headaches. Hope that this is related to my tranny prob as well. Garage is fitting a new ECU so I will report back on the results.

I have been hestitant on trying the disconnected battery trick as I have a MMCS and I think that I will need a re-boot disk if the power is off. As this is a Jap import the dealer won't have the correct software to get going and I'll be stuffed.

Jim
NZ

Hi what is a MMCS?

tx
AMo

Hi what is a MMCS?

tx
AMo
MMCS stands for Mitsubishi Multi Communication System. I don't think that you had it in the States as it is primarliy released in Japan. The system incorporates CD/tape/ TV and Sat -Nav screens into one touch screen panel on the dash. It is controlled through a CD unit under the seat. It works well apart from being in Japanese rather than English but aftermarket translation disks are in the making. If you want to know more have a look at Mistsi's international website. You will be amazed!

One comment on my little ECU problem. It wasn't the ECU at all but turned out to be a number of connectors between the ECU and the sensors. My mechanic ended up cleaning each with some emery cloth and contact cleaner. It not only solved the ideling problem but it now shifts and runs better. The contacts were not dirty or coroded just probably had to much resistance for the circuit.

Jim