99 Windstar not cranking

My 99 Windstar (3.8l) has been experiencing a sporadic problem where it doesn't crank over. Drive somewhere. Park and shut off. Come back. Nothing. Wait awhile + insert and remove key a bunch of times. Eventually it starts. At first I thought it might have something to do with the transponder key. Why not?? It was easy to give my wife the other key. I also don't recall it ever happening cold - always after recently running. It seems to be working ok, but I want to be prepared for the next emergency. Is it possible for a key to go bad yet still work most of the time? Is it possible to bypass this gimmick signal alltogether? (If someone is dying to rip-off my "sweet" $6k ride, I'm willing to take that chance.) CEL is on, and I will be getting the code checked this week.

We all need to get codes read as quickly as possible, to prevent small problems from becoming trip-stoppers.

About the non-cranking:
1. At the top of the list goes cable connections, bad battery cells, failing starter, and the like. Make sure all related connections are good. If you have a voltmeter, check the overnight battery voltage .... should be 12.5+ volts.

2. Next comes the relay circuit ... added in '99... "start interrupt" (relay #302) and the DTR sensor on the tranny. I have had to replace a few relays on my '99. The design & quality of the relays was upgraded in later years. But on the '99, you might as well keep a few new ones on hand. Refer to your glove box manual.

While hunting the problem, you can certainly install an jumper from the small terminal on the starter (where the yellow/lt-blue wire is) to the battery area. Use insulated wire, of course. Store the wire end close to the battery. When you need, place the tranny in P, turn the key ON, and temp push the bare jumper wire end against the positive battery terminal.

Actually, I keep my "temporary" jumper in-place. I'm pretty confident I can force crank the engine no matter what.

Oh my,

DRW has taught me the new way to do the old bypass the voltage regulator trick. The last time I did this I used a tire iron and a can opener on my girlfriends 73 pinto. . . .

Didn't know this was still possible without messing up the computer. DRW, keep it up. and thank you.



Karl

You can force the engine to turn over (won't affect the computer) but the engine may not RUN (edited) if the PCM is not happy.

The engine codes are 171 and 174 - both manifold O2 sensors - not a real big surprise since it ALWAYS seems to point to those first. They haven't been replaced and the car has 75k on it. I read that Ford recommends replacement at 60k, so I suppose it's an easy enough thing to do. But most likely has nothing to do with my cranking problem. The jumper wire is a good test, and I'll give it a try when the car fails me again. I'm confident that the battery and starter are good, but you never know. Thanks for the help.

171 and 174 on a 99 Windstar??? Imagine that. Next you will be telling us that you are getting a door ajar light and a DPFE code..........lol

(Kind of an inside joke for us 99 owners.)

Anyway, Welcome to the forum.

I'll bet you a cold one that it isn't your O2 sensors. You more than likely have the Isolator bolt problem and need to do the TSB to correct the problem. Search this forum under Isolator bolts and you will have reading material to last a month. Fortunately all of the info is here including a link to an excellent step-by-step set of instructions with photos.

And you are correct....It has nothing to do with your lack of cranking.

BTW bookmark this site.