1992 Saturn SL2 - Problems Read
BullyCanadian
05-14-2005, 09:49 PM
Well here is my story
The car wasn't driven in about 1 year.
Got back from university and got it insured took it to the mechanic, got ALL 4 brakes (pads and drums in back) changed. Got oil changed. Tried to fix radiator leak, didnt work (mechanic tried 'squeezing' radiator edge together). Also my Service Engine Soon light just started coming on recently. Another thing, it shifts jerky from 1st to second gear, gonna try and get the trans flushed this monday and see what happens.
Anyways been filling the radiator every morning, before I drive. Anyways got a couple of questions.
1. Would a liquid radiator leak sealer be good to use? Or should I buy and install a new radiator?
2. Would the service engine soon light come on if the radiator is leaking? Could it be something else?
3. Is it possible to put cavalier seats in here?
4. Also forgot to add there is a burning smell front time to time, what could it be?
Also it has 160,000 km's on it, SOHC engine (124hp), has been VERY VERY reliable, even more so than our 2003 Mitsubishi Galant.
Lastly all the inside panels are out, (being spray painted blue, and the side cloth areas are being covered with white vinel).
Let me know!
The car wasn't driven in about 1 year.
Got back from university and got it insured took it to the mechanic, got ALL 4 brakes (pads and drums in back) changed. Got oil changed. Tried to fix radiator leak, didnt work (mechanic tried 'squeezing' radiator edge together). Also my Service Engine Soon light just started coming on recently. Another thing, it shifts jerky from 1st to second gear, gonna try and get the trans flushed this monday and see what happens.
Anyways been filling the radiator every morning, before I drive. Anyways got a couple of questions.
1. Would a liquid radiator leak sealer be good to use? Or should I buy and install a new radiator?
2. Would the service engine soon light come on if the radiator is leaking? Could it be something else?
3. Is it possible to put cavalier seats in here?
4. Also forgot to add there is a burning smell front time to time, what could it be?
Also it has 160,000 km's on it, SOHC engine (124hp), has been VERY VERY reliable, even more so than our 2003 Mitsubishi Galant.
Lastly all the inside panels are out, (being spray painted blue, and the side cloth areas are being covered with white vinel).
Let me know!
BullyCanadian
05-14-2005, 09:55 PM
Also just wanted to add the service engine soon light is not on all the time, just blinks on and off every now and then (not a lot) while driving
sierrap615
05-15-2005, 12:21 AM
1. there are no good leak sealers, they infact can cause more cooling problems by clogging the radiator, heater core, and in some cases even the water jackets. replace the radiator.
2. possible, but unlikey, i *think* for one year or two saturn used the SES light for the low coolant indicatior. read here to check - http://www.differentracing.com/tech_articles/diag_info.html
3. don't know anyone who has done it. it might be possible, you may need to make new mounting brackets. i have seen many times universal racing seats.
4. what does it smell like? it may be the leaking coolent. remove the caps from all fuilds and smell, see if any come close. if the transmission fiuld smells burned and is dark/black in color do NOT flush the system. the hard 1-2 shift may be a problem in the valve body, which a flush may or may not help, or the input shaft nut may have come loose, which does happen time to time, flush won't help that.
P.S. - the sl2 has the DOHC(124hp), the SOHC(85hp or 100hp) are seen in the lower end models
2. possible, but unlikey, i *think* for one year or two saturn used the SES light for the low coolant indicatior. read here to check - http://www.differentracing.com/tech_articles/diag_info.html
3. don't know anyone who has done it. it might be possible, you may need to make new mounting brackets. i have seen many times universal racing seats.
4. what does it smell like? it may be the leaking coolent. remove the caps from all fuilds and smell, see if any come close. if the transmission fiuld smells burned and is dark/black in color do NOT flush the system. the hard 1-2 shift may be a problem in the valve body, which a flush may or may not help, or the input shaft nut may have come loose, which does happen time to time, flush won't help that.
P.S. - the sl2 has the DOHC(124hp), the SOHC(85hp or 100hp) are seen in the lower end models
mysatilac
05-15-2005, 12:37 AM
Good info Sierrap, as usual
I thought if the tranny fluid was burned, it had overheated at some point and you should change it,
I thought if the tranny fluid was burned, it had overheated at some point and you should change it,
sierrap615
05-15-2005, 01:16 AM
if the fluid is burned, there is a good chance the clutch packs are also burned, and the dirt in the fuild is the only thing keeping the clutches holding. in such cases a tranny rebuild is needed, a flush will only increase slipage and make later diagnosis near impossible.
BullyCanadian
05-15-2005, 01:02 PM
ok, the tranny fluid I believe was brownish in colour, what colour should it regularly be? (I have never done a transmission fluid check before so this was the first time I have seen it) So basically if its burnt it wont be a good idea to change it. Just leave it in there untill it dies fully?
mysatilac
05-15-2005, 01:14 PM
It should be red, buy some tranny fluid (small bottle) and compare the two,
colour, eh? :lol: thats great,
colour, eh? :lol: thats great,
sierrap615
05-15-2005, 02:16 PM
red is good, reddish-brown should be changed, dark brown normally should not be changed, black fluid is the worst. does the fluid smell burnt? when was the last trans service? level ok? if you are not sure about the condision of the fluid, double check with a tech first.
BullyCanadian
05-15-2005, 03:52 PM
red is good, reddish-brown should be changed, dark brown normally should not be changed, black fluid is the worst. does the fluid smell burnt? when was the last trans service? level ok? if you are not sure about the condision of the fluid, double check with a tech first.
Ok just got back from checking it, its red, so its good, just also topped off the power steering
But I think the alternator just died :( The battery symbol was one while I drove to the grocery store and back, and also a sign saying "shift to D2" came on while pressing the brakes. The car died right infront of my house, so I was lucky.
Gonna go to the junk yard tomorrow and get a rad and an alternator.
Any tips?
Why would shift to D2 light come on, because of the alternator? Also I'm thinking it is the alternator because car felt HEAVY and didnt accelerate right, (rev was very low)
Ok just got back from checking it, its red, so its good, just also topped off the power steering
But I think the alternator just died :( The battery symbol was one while I drove to the grocery store and back, and also a sign saying "shift to D2" came on while pressing the brakes. The car died right infront of my house, so I was lucky.
Gonna go to the junk yard tomorrow and get a rad and an alternator.
Any tips?
Why would shift to D2 light come on, because of the alternator? Also I'm thinking it is the alternator because car felt HEAVY and didnt accelerate right, (rev was very low)
sierrap615
05-15-2005, 11:51 PM
the "SHIFT TO D2" light came on because the computer didn't have enough power to know what the hell to do.
i would also replace the battery for two reasons 1- its been siting for a year and most likely has sulfated plates(sp?) and 2- what little power it had left was sucked out today.
if possible i would also buy a new or rebuilt OEM alternator from saturn instead of a junkyard one. it will be more reliable. most autopart stores will test a alternator free of charge.
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23960
also note there are three alternator designs.
1.CS130 (85 amp) 91-94
2.CS130 (96 amp) 95-mid97
3.CS121D (90 amp) mid97 +
the first two are interchangible, the last is not(different electrical connectior, internal cooling fan). if possible, you may want to track down the 95-mid97 design for the few extra amps.
i would also replace the battery for two reasons 1- its been siting for a year and most likely has sulfated plates(sp?) and 2- what little power it had left was sucked out today.
if possible i would also buy a new or rebuilt OEM alternator from saturn instead of a junkyard one. it will be more reliable. most autopart stores will test a alternator free of charge.
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23960
also note there are three alternator designs.
1.CS130 (85 amp) 91-94
2.CS130 (96 amp) 95-mid97
3.CS121D (90 amp) mid97 +
the first two are interchangible, the last is not(different electrical connectior, internal cooling fan). if possible, you may want to track down the 95-mid97 design for the few extra amps.
BullyCanadian
05-17-2005, 09:34 PM
Hmm, thanks for the advice a buddy picked up a rebuilt 92 model, but since I saw this, I am going to tell him NOT to install it yet and get the '95 - '97 one
BullyCanadian
05-17-2005, 09:35 PM
Also looks like the Alternator is at the bottom (a little hard to get at need a lift so we may have the mechanic install or take it to the school's auto class to use the lift)
mysatilac
05-17-2005, 10:50 PM
Need to jack the car up, but I think you just remove the wheel and wheel well to get access to it,
BullyCanadian
05-18-2005, 09:36 AM
Need to jack the car up, but I think you just remove the wheel and wheel well to get access to it,
Hmm, is it hard to remove the wheel well? (Never done that before)
Hmm, is it hard to remove the wheel well? (Never done that before)
mysatilac
05-18-2005, 11:18 AM
Sorry, Splash Guard,
I haven't needed to either, I believe that its just a few plastic clips and small headed bolts though,
I haven't needed to either, I believe that its just a few plastic clips and small headed bolts though,
sierrap615
05-19-2005, 12:29 AM
its all in the how-to i posted above
BullyCanadian
05-22-2005, 04:07 PM
thanks guys for all the help
Got the new alternator on, and its working like a champ
Have one question (my brother installed the new alternator, I havent seen the old one yet, just describing what he has told me, he left the old one in his garage) the old alternator (which was NEW 2 years ago) was drenched in oil or grease. Would that case the alternator to die? Should I watch out for the same thing on this alternator?
Got the new alternator on, and its working like a champ
Have one question (my brother installed the new alternator, I havent seen the old one yet, just describing what he has told me, he left the old one in his garage) the old alternator (which was NEW 2 years ago) was drenched in oil or grease. Would that case the alternator to die? Should I watch out for the same thing on this alternator?
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