Performance Forums Dyno Day

http://board.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9524

I'm going to take the SiR along to truly see what it puts out at the front wheels. Cost 55 bucks for a dyno run.

In case any of the Sydney-siders are interested.

Cheers

i'm coming!

Cool :) Notice how they mixed us up spunky :p

Ok, going off 12.5% driveline loss then you should be putting out about 138hp to the wheels, except the guys at Honda reackon they only have about 148hp at the flywheel after you account for things like P/S and Alternator etc etc.
But since the only thing you will have driving and sucking any real power is the alternator, so Im going to assume say true 152hp. (thats a 5hp loss to belts etc). And allowing for the fact that other guys at Honda have said the early B16a's actualy has as much as 5hp more than was quoted.
Then you could have anywhere between 130 and 145hp at the wheels. :D

Im going to make an educated guestimate and say 137hp. :)

anyone wanna wager otherwise?

I'll wager just slightly less than that taking into account the cars history (I know how he drives), it's age and the high number of kilometres the car has done (220+, Pete?).

212,000 but it's about to cop another 1500km on it when I go down to Vic. I have a feeling it will be down on power somehow - hopefully I will have the idle issues sorted by then. Hmmm... it isn't burning much oil despite the way I drive it except for using a bit on the last interstate run. It holds its own against the VTiR Civics on the road so I will be interested in seeing what it has left. I'm not going to try and guess - that way I won't be dissapointed ;)

Thatr's the best way to be. Fill up with Optimax and make sure all is warm and lubed before dyno run.

Originally posted by ozriceboy
Thatr's the best way to be. Fill up with Optimax and make sure all is warm and lubed before dyno run.

Mine has down 106500 kms now...got it on 68000 :p

You should fill it with Optimax...if that's what your car runs best on. My sister finds the Mobil synergy works better in her car than the Optimax...whereas in my car the Optimax is smoother, synergy is still good, but economy wise, not as good, and the BP ultimate drinks like water...and weaker.

Weird - mine drinks the 98 octane Mobil Synergy and is quite good on Optimax. I haven't tried the BP varient. I think I have copped a bad batch of Optimax once or twice, it just didn't run well at all. I've heard rumours that Shell changed the brew a bit at one stage.

I got the SiR with 170,000 odd km on it - I can't believe I've done 40,000 in 14 months :rolleyes:

Originally posted by Setanta
Weird - mine drinks the 98 octane Mobil Synergy and is quite good on Optimax. I haven't tried the BP varient. I think I have copped a bad batch of Optimax once or twice, it just didn't run well at all. I've heard rumours that Shell changed the brew a bit at one stage.

I got the SiR with 170,000 odd km on it - I can't believe I've done 40,000 in 14 months :rolleyes:

I've done 38000 in the teg in 13 months....and the teg was off the road for atleast 2 months in that period...with rims being stolen, and kit being done :rolleyes:

Not out driving now....cause the brake noise is soooo bad....kills my ears. getting them changed tomorrow thank god.

Ouch. Getting the disks machined at the same time too?

I've just found out why my rotors keep warping - it's the crap brake pads they put on my car. I'm going to drop a set of EBC greens or reds in there to see if it makes a difference.

Originally posted by Setanta
Ouch. Getting the disks machined at the same time too?

I've just found out why my rotors keep warping - it's the crap brake pads they put on my car. I'm going to drop a set of EBC greens or reds in there to see if it makes a difference.

Nah....rear discs are ok. Was squeaking a lot cause brakes were worn to limiter....

I use bendix and never have had problems...they cool down quick.

Bendix are what I have on and they kill my rotors - I didn't realise that was the brand they put on when I last had them done or I would have stopped them. Going to pick up a pair of slotted DBA rotors for the front (I was going to go crossdrilled but the slotted cool better without cracking) and EBC green pads which was what I had asked for. I looked at my receipt today and noticed that they had just gone with what was available. I can pick them all up with a discount from the HCC so 'tis cool. :)

Originally posted by Setanta
Bendix are what I have on and they kill my rotors - I didn't realise that was the brand they put on when I last had them done or I would have stopped them. Going to pick up a pair of slotted DBA rotors for the front (I was going to go crossdrilled but the slotted cool better without cracking) and EBC green pads which was what I had asked for. I looked at my receipt today and noticed that they had just gone with what was available. I can pick them all up with a discount from the HCC so 'tis cool. :)

funny cause I've never had problems with Bendix before. My front discs were already warped badly when I got the car, but they had different pads on.

Hmmmm..... DBA cross drilled :D Brembo :D

how about EBC rotors??
they *look* cool ;)
i give them an a for appearance.

now... i wonder how well they work, i think i will try them out for my next set of discs.

DBA slottted rotors are used on cop pursuit cars and the cross-drilled are use on some of the falcodore series contenders so that's where I'm heading. I'm not a brand-name person, I prefer function over form ;)

^^^^^^^^

Originally posted by Setanta
DBA slottted rotors are used on cop pursuit cars and the cross-drilled are use on some of the falcodore series contenders so that's where I'm heading. I'm not a brand-name person, I prefer function over form ;)

^^^^^^^^

No point in changing my discs yet....they are still ok...but if they start warping...I'll have to change, cause they can't be grinded again. DBA sounds good.... but until I do some mods to make the car faster...won't really need them.

Dam shame, the guy with the CRX with type R swap is in Japan....didn't know....otherwise would have asked him to look for parts for the TII, and my teg. Heard he's looking for mugen cams and ecu....so if he gets it I've asked my cousin to pass on, that I want his type R cams :D

You also need the valve springs and retainers - just a quick warning. I'm thinking the same, but they re damn expensive. I have decided to track down some ITR headers though for when I add a mandrel-bent exhaust. I've decided to work on the Civic rather than buy another car - going to track down another B16A though so I can rebuild the existing one to performance spec and still drive the car.

Originally posted by Setanta
You also need the valve springs and retainers - just a quick warning. I'm thinking the same, but they re damn expensive. I have decided to track down some ITR headers though for when I add a mandrel-bent exhaust. I've decided to work on the Civic rather than buy another car - going to track down another B16A though so I can rebuild the existing one to performance spec and still drive the car.

Hmmm...maybe hold off looking for the headers...cause the guy with the crx has itr headers...but is looking for some....

He did have a B16a in the CRX, but probably sold it, and you woudn't want it after hes driven it.

Originally posted by Spunkymonkey


Hmmm...maybe hold off looking for the headers...cause the guy with the crx has itr headers...but is looking for some....

He did have a B16a in the CRX, but probably sold it, and you woudn't want it after hes driven it.

Different gen B16A. Setanta needs 1st gen, all the ones ppl drop into CRXs (both gens) and 5th gens are 2nd gens. Comes down to tranny - hydraulic or cable actuated.`

heheh - oz, the engines bolt straight up to my tranny ;) Actually - most of the ones that come into Australia are 2G Integra B16As which are identical to mine :) They are cheaper than the Aussie spec CRX (Del Sol) and VTiR engines.

I can pick up an Integra B16A for 1 grand with 60,000 on it so that will be the plan. Manifolds are the same as are all the sensors so it's the easy solution.

BTW - if you want to go to the dyno day then put your name down and I'll give you a lift :)

Originally posted by Setanta
heheh - oz, the engines bolt straight up to my tranny ;) Actually - most of the ones that come into Australia are 2G Integra B16As which are identical to mine :) They are cheaper than the Aussie spec CRX (Del Sol) and VTiR engines.

I can pick up an Integra B16A for 1 grand with 60,000 on it so that will be the plan. Manifolds are the same as are all the sensors so it's the easy solution.

BTW - if you want to go to the dyno day then put your name down and I'll give you a lift :)

:eek: bringing the sidekick :p Oh, Tx2 will be there as a spectator also, and Setanta....my sister is bringing the big Nikon camera so I don't think you're going to get away with not getting any photos taken this time....even me for that matter :p

I've just got to find out when the HSC trials are. If thjeres nothing schoolie related going on around then, I'M DOWN BABY! The only dyno run I've ever helped strap up was a mates turbo CRX. pulled 140hp at the front wheels on 5psi.

Forgot you were still in high school....too many younguns on these boards :p

It shall be interesting to see how Pete stacks up against the other civic there with the integra B16a engine. My sister decided not to bring her's cause there is already a B16 brigade going.

Depending on how long the dyno day runs for....anyone feel like going cruising afterwards :p

Pete should kill me at the dyno day cause my motor is old and sad :(

New motor is some way off yet :(

Still, I hosed a WRX the other day :D

Originally posted by B16a4me
Pete should kill me at the dyno day cause my motor is old and sad :(

New motor is some way off yet :(

Still, I hosed a WRX the other day :D

Hey welcome to the forums...we'll see huh :p

Originally posted by B16a4me
Pete should kill me at the dyno day cause my motor is old and sad :(

New motor is some way off yet :(

Still, I hosed a WRX the other day :D

Heheh... mine is factory-built 1990 though so I'm in the same boat ;)

WRXs aren't too bad actually if you can get off the mark fast. I can hold my own and even inch ahead to about 70km/h but then they start to eat me up and overhaul me. Strangely enough though, I can keep ahead of them on twisty roads... I keep hearing that their suspension geometry is nothing too special (although neither is mine yet).

Welcome in to the boards BTW - it should be cool to compare B16A notes on the dyno day ;)

Hey Pete...have you checked out the platinum site in a while....the fieldzy guy with the teg....did a dyno run, at one of those misfit days....and he came up with 78 kw....I'm not sure....which teg spec he has though...the GSI or the VTIR. Perhaps its the GSI though...cause that is a big drop from the engine to the wheels figure. I remember the other member that had the integra...but no longer seems to be on that site...had a GSI..but with the mugen bodykit...etc.

hey do u have to tell that southo guy that ur going or can u turn up on the day???

i can be bothered registering to PF, so can any1 tell him/her there's gonna be another honda on the dyno!

its at croydon auto thingy right>??... are those the guys that specialise in US turbos 4 hondas ?

Originally posted by incoming
hey do u have to tell that southo guy that ur going or can u turn up on the day???

i can be bothered registering to PF, so can any1 tell him/her there's gonna be another honda on the dyno!

its at croydon auto thingy right>??... are those the guys that specialise in US turbos 4 hondas ?

Ok...I'll post for you Ross...what year is your civic. and are you bringing spectators...cause they have to know that too.

yeah...croydon...does a lot of turbo conversions.

Originally posted by Spunkymonkey
Hey Pete...have you checked out the platinum site in a while....the fieldzy guy with the teg....did a dyno run, at one of those misfit days....and he came up with 78 kw....I'm not sure....which teg spec he has though...the GSI or the VTIR. Perhaps its the GSI though...cause that is a big drop from the engine to the wheels figure. I remember the other member that had the integra...but no longer seems to be on that site...had a GSI..but with the mugen bodykit...etc.

Geez - 78 is very low for a b18. A guy I know had his VTiR Civic up on the dyno with I/H/E plus cam wheels and was getting 92 and that's with a B16A. One thing I do know is that if the car simply has the parts bolted on then it can actually lead to drops in bhp unless you match them to the same application.

If it's a GSI non-VTEC then I could understand it - I sure hope it's not a VTiR. I'll have to hunt around the platinum site again to see if cruises are happening, but between the dyno day and a night out with friends gold passing it to the new SW movie at the end of the month I' going to be budgeting a bit :rolleyes:

The more I read about dyno figures, the lower I think mine will make.

Playing around with these motors is both expensive and risky. It's not hard to stuff up Honda's work. That's why I'm shedding weight. It CAN'T go slower :D :D :D

Link to platinum site please

Setanta...Yeah I love playing with WRX's. They have no idea what's coming :D :D :D . Remember my car is about 200 kgs lighter than yours(somehow), so you can imagine how much fun I have.

heheh... I'll make a few assumptions about our cars ;) Both are 4th Gen Civics, both have power steering, windows etc, mine has air-con, yours may not. I don't have intrusion bars in my doors or Aussie reinforcement behind my bumpers (bad boy :p ). You won't have a moonroof (Aussie 4Gs didn't get them as an option), I do. Both of us have a B16A and Y1 tranny plus accessories.

The theory is that you *should* be maybe 100 kilos lighter with a B16A onboard, but the practice is very different. Tare weight on my (fully optioned) 4G GL was 920kgs, on my SiR when I put it over the weighbridge it was 990 something kgs even though Honda Japan lists it as being 1030kgs with my options. Don't ask me what the story is as I have NFI - the weight of the B16A compared to a stock Aussie D15B should be 30 kilos alone I'm guessing.

My only guess is that the RTA's figures for the GL are very wrong, but even so, damn it's nice to punt around in a quick car. Heheh - I drove a GL a few days ago - I kept miss-shifting because of the long throw compared to the SiR's quick-shift... not to mention realising that the damn motor doesn't go out to 7000 rpm, let alone 8000 :D Oops :rolleyes:

My car is 3rd gen not 4th. My car was used in motorkhanas prior to the conversion for many years. Prior to the conversion it weighed 790 kgs and after it weighed 845kgs. It has no power steering or air or power anything (except B16a:D :D :D ). It has no rear seats, no carpets, no heater ass'y, plastic RCI buckets on alloy mounts, alloy 24 litre fuel tank.

I weighed it last thursday and it weighed 915kg with me (98kg) sitting in it:D :D :D

In the next few weeks I'm pulling out the stereo, fitting an alloy bonnet and some other stuff to drop some more weight.

Less weight means less load on drivetrain, less resistance to acceleration ie less wheelspin and better stopping.

I'm hoping to be able to drop it's weight to less than 750kg's before the end of the year.

VTECing across the universe!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Originally posted by Setanta


Geez - 78 is very low for a b18. A guy I know had his VTiR Civic up on the dyno with I/H/E plus cam wheels and was getting 92 and that's with a B16A. One thing I do know is that if the car simply has the parts bolted on then it can actually lead to drops in bhp unless you match them to the same application.

If it's a GSI non-VTEC then I could understand it - I sure hope it's not a VTiR. I'll have to hunt around the platinum site again to see if cruises are happening, but between the dyno day and a night out with friends gold passing it to the new SW movie at the end of the month I' going to be budgeting a bit :rolleyes:

yeah.... I was having a squiz yesterday....don't think there is much atm.

That's what I was thinking....but the guy doesn't specifiy...which model.

Originally posted by B16a4me
My car is 3rd gen not 4th. My car was used in motorkhanas prior to the conversion for many years. Prior to the conversion it weighed 790 kgs and after it weighed 845kgs. It has no power steering or air or power anything (except B16a:D :D :D ). It has no rear seats, no carpets, no heater ass'y, plastic RCI buckets on alloy mounts, alloy 24 litre fuel tank.

I weighed it last thursday and it weighed 915kg with me (98kg) sitting in it:D :D :D

In the next few weeks I'm pulling out the stereo, fitting an alloy bonnet and some other stuff to drop some more weight.

Less weight means less load on drivetrain, less resistance to acceleration ie less wheelspin and better stopping.

I'm hoping to be able to drop it's weight to less than 750kg's before the end of the year.

VTECing across the universe!!!!!!!!!!!!!

it also means more rattles...cause less sound proofing....hehe...I've sat in the CRX that my cousin's friend owns...so many rattles, and exhaust is quite noisy, even though its only a normal one.

Ok... now I'm looking forward to see this!!! :D Damn it must be a tight fit in the engine bay. I'll stick to my factory setup which is tight enough as it is thanks ;)

Originally posted by B16a4me
My car is 3rd gen not 4th. My car was used in motorkhanas prior to the conversion for many years. Prior to the conversion it weighed 790 kgs and after it weighed 845kgs. It has no power steering or air or power anything (except B16a:D :D :D ). It has no rear seats, no carpets, no heater ass'y, plastic RCI buckets on alloy mounts, alloy 24 litre fuel tank.

I weighed it last thursday and it weighed 915kg with me (98kg) sitting in it:D :D :D

In the next few weeks I'm pulling out the stereo, fitting an alloy bonnet and some other stuff to drop some more weight.

Less weight means less load on drivetrain, less resistance to acceleration ie less wheelspin and better stopping.

I'm hoping to be able to drop it's weight to less than 750kg's before the end of the year.

VTECing across the universe!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Spunkymonkey: Rattles? There is nothing left to rattle :D :D :D

And if there was I wouldn't hear it over the exhaust :D :D :D

Setanta: Yeah it is a bit tight. The real problem is around the headers :( Looks like I'm going to have to make custom headers :( but think of the money I'll save over Mugen/Spoon/ITR :D

Can't wait to check out a genuine SiR. Dyno day can't come soon enough.

hey thanks Q..

my cars the 92 model

umm.. ill be going with at least 5 ppl... prob 2 cars max.

thanks again!!

Originally posted by incoming
hey thanks Q..

my cars the 92 model

umm.. ill be going with at least 5 ppl... prob 2 cars max.

thanks again!!

ok....thats posted..if there is any problems with numbers I"ll let you know..as there are already 40 cars getting dynoed.

Originally posted by Setanta
You also need the valve springs and retainers - just a quick warning. I'm thinking the same, but they re damn expensive. I have decided to track down some ITR headers though for when I add a mandrel-bent exhaust. I've decided to work on the Civic rather than buy another car - going to track down another B16A though so I can rebuild the existing one to performance spec and still drive the car.

Setanta: are you meaning the JDM 4-1 ITR headers?

Someone in NZ has put them on a Integra XSi but he had to cut into the front crossmember to make them fit, I don't know how similar the EF9 Civic will be to the DA6 Integra, I can't imagine it wouldn have any more room than the Integra. :rolleyes:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/359018head1.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/978879head2.jpg

Here is his site http://www.lyonel.8m.com/projectxsi.htm

Damn thats a mean set of headers!

and DA6 and EF9 both use exactly the same frount cross member. :)



B16a4me A B16a in a 3rd gen! Mate! You'll have to get us some pics aye!
If not then Setanta remember to take your camera!
Its must be a real hoot to drive!

I weighed my car the other day and with me in it, and all my tools and some other crap it come out to about 1160kgs or something.
Meaning the honda numbers were right and I had about 100kgs of me and crap in the car.

But then you never really know how acurate the scales are, as they are only used to measure weight differnce on the truck coming in, and then leaving. So the weigh bridges are often poorly calibrated.

Originally posted by Moppie
B16a4me A B16a in a 3rd gen! Mate! You'll have to get us some pics aye!
If not then Setanta remember to take your camera!
Its must be a real hoot to drive!

[/B]

Hehehe...setanta bring a camera...not likely...he's camera shy :p

Don't worry my sister will be there with the big Nikon...so I doubt anyone can hide from her.... :p

Yeah it is hard to find an accurate weighbridge. After the conversion I took it to 4 different weighbridges and there was 40 kilo range (of inaccuracy). I finally took it to a mates work and we made ramps to get my car onto a digital scale.

His work buys and sells chemicals that can be worth $700 per kilo, so they have a VERY accurate scale. They have a 500 kg test weight that they use to calibrate the scale and after weighing mine they calibrated it and it was only 150 grammes out!!!!!

I'm not very computer literate so, even though I have photos, I don't know how to post. Spunkymonkey's sister can organise that :D :D

Yeah it is a hoot to drive, it's like a two door motorbike :D :D

Originally posted by EF6_CR-X


Setanta: are you meaning the JDM 4-1 ITR headers?


I was thinking the Aussie spec ITR headers, but they are quite similar to the JDM ones apparently.

Maybe I'll go back to the plan of Mugen 4-2-1 copies for the B16A from Croydon instead. The only issue is that I want to keep it looking as stock in the engine bay as possible so I need the heat shield ;P

That or maybe get someone to play with the secondaries instead and keep the factory manifold.

Hey Moppie: is your exhaust pipe or mandrel bent? Mine is pipe bent and as such could be losing potential power. It certainly looks factory to me as it has the original heat shields down the length of the exhaust and over the cat, but I'm not too sure. Either way I'm getting a mandrel bent system plus a high-flow cat and muffler. Heheh - the exhaust shops I've been to so far think I'm a lunatic... "now the muffler has to be exactly the same shape as the factory one, even if it has to be custom made and you must use the factory exhaust tips..." :p

Originally posted by Setanta


I was thinking the Aussie spec ITR headers, but they are quite similar to the JDM ones apparently.
.......
"now the muffler has to be exactly the same shape as the factory one, even if it has to be custom made and you must use the factory exhaust tips..." :p

Lol sounds similar to a request I'd make, and also get a wierd look from them.
Sounds like the best way to have it, not all 'raced up' keep as stock as possible... but faster...:D

I just thought I'd mention that about the headers, as I wasn't sure if you knew about it, or whether you would be keen on hacking into your crossmember. (looks like it would cause a lot weakening in the crossmenber, maybe leading to fatigue) I dunno how legal it is either.:bloated:

Setanta: How much are Croydon asking for the Mugen Copies?

Off the top of my head it was about 600 bucks. Colour me suspicious, but I want to check the Mugen specs on length and angles first, before buying ;)

Yeah..I'm the same colour :D :D :D

I'll take my verniers and tape to the dyno day :D I need some specs to copy for mine if a set of headers "off the rack" won't fit.

Originally posted by B16a4me
The more I read about dyno figures, the lower I think mine will make.

Playing around with these motors is both expensive and risky. It's not hard to stuff up Honda's work. That's why I'm shedding weight. It CAN'T go slower :D :D :D

Link to platinum site please

Setanta...Yeah I love playing with WRX's. They have no idea what's coming :D :D :D . Remember my car is about 200 kgs lighter than yours(somehow), so you can imagine how much fun I have.

www.platinumcruise.net

oh...what colour is your car? who knows I may have seen it around.

My cousins once dropped a CRX engine into a 3rd gen...don't know if the car is still alive :p got sold a while back.

but a ZC/D16 twincam swap from a CRX into a 3G is child's play Q as they bolt straight in :p It was a JDM option called the Si. All mounts bolt straight up and you even have the ECU mounting points etc as I recollect. To drop a B16A in is a real challenge - more so than into a 4G+

Martin Donnan used to race and hillclimb an imported Si, but the engine had been worked to produce 200bhp+, not bad considering it is NA and started with 130bhp :)

Originally posted by Setanta
but a ZC/D16 twincam swap from a CRX into a 3G is child's play Q as they bolt straight in :p It was a JDM option called the Si. All mounts bolt straight up and you even have the ECU mounting points etc as I recollect. To drop a B16A in is a real challenge - more so than into a 4G+

Martin Donnan used to race and hillclimb an imported Si, but the engine had been worked to produce 200bhp+, not bad considering it is NA and started with 130bhp :)

hehehe.... I wasn't saying it was a big thing... :p I'm saying there is a poor owner of a car out there with a 3rd gen, civic that is red with a white bonnet...that is probably in crap condition now. not that it was looking good when it was sold :p

I realise a B16A swap into a 3rd gen is more of a challenge :p

Well I think mines crush bent.
Iv never really looked, and since the car is currently in a workshop sans g.box I cant really go have a look. :D

But I wouldn't waste the money on a Mandrel bent system.
IMO thier a waste of money.
Sure it flows better but your talking about almost insignifcant differnces considering the size of the bends. You might gain 1/4 a hp. not really worth the cost if you ask me.
And then whats the point if your still going to squeeze it out of the stock tips?

Certainly all the cars I work on have crush bent exhausts. Thats everything from 308 GTS Ferrari's, (race and road spec) to Lotus Esprit V8s, to race only 190hp 1600 Twin Cam Elans.
Even the March (forumla 2 car) with a 250hp BDR? or P? has crush bent headers on it.

Yeah mine is red with (until today) a white bonnet too.......

Now it is red with an alloy bonnet :D :D :D

My headers and exhaust will be mandrel as it's actually easier to make that way.IE no matter what angle you cut you still have a round hole to weld to.

Originally posted by Moppie

And then whats the point if your still going to squeeze it out of the stock tips?


Heheh - most cars I've driven have run mandrel bends including my 1G civics and my Tumpe 2500S ex-factory ;)

IF you look at our tips and calculate their joint diameter then you'll note that they equate to a single 2 1/4 inch pipe - over-engineered like most things on the SiR. Usually story, a lot of people don't believe that 2 small twin tips will exhaust the same gasses as one big one - but the muffler to "Y" pipe that mounts to the pipes will be larger. I also got told that for 90 bucks they will custom design a twin tip that has larger diameter than the stock ones but maintains shape. The crush bends are ok, but wasteful as they create turbulance and don't assist in exhaust scavenging as well. I dunno about NZ, but I got quoted 600AU$ for a crush bent 2 1/4 system with high flow cat and muffler compared to 700AU$ for a mandrel bent system with the same cat and muffler. 100 bucks isn't to bad IMO. A stainless system is only 900AU$ but that's just extravagent :p

I agree that in the short run the mandrel bends won't make too much of a difference, but in the long term it will part of a package that I'm putting together - as a sum of (eventual) parts, it will make a difference

Originally posted by B16a4me
Yeah mine is red with (until today) a white bonnet too.......

Now it is red with an alloy bonnet :D :D :D

My headers and exhaust will be mandrel as it's actually easier to make that way.IE no matter what angle you cut you still have a round hole to weld to.

:eek: I would laugh if it was the same car.... does it have white rims???

how long have you had it?

Going to change my estimate. Thinking of drivetrain losses etc I'm guessing closer to 80kw @ FWs. But that will suck as it's getting closer to what I was getting in my modded 1G civic.

Spunkymonkey: Nah it's not the same car. I've had mine for 4 or 5 years and up until Feb when I got it on the road with B16 it was all red. I bought a white Si bonnet for rocker cover clearance.

Hopefully soon it will have MX5 rims (10 - 12 lbs instead of 16.5lbs)

Setanta: Yeah I was thinking of changing my guess to 81 kw. The lower I guess the less chance of being disappointed :D :D :D

Cool. yeah...true the lower you guess the less chance of disappointment.