Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC)
webworks
04-20-2005, 08:52 PM
Ok... I have read the other items relating to IRMC issues...
This on e should be easy! I can see exactly what the problem is.
The linkage going between the control module and the bank 1 came off and little plastic doodad clip/keeper is gone!
This IRMC control was replaced a year ago and is not in warranty.
The dealer says they need to replace both the control and the butterfly assembly at a cost of $950 :eek7:
Ok so I am not even wanting to go there. I use this wonderful forum to locate what the problem is and a thread directs me to look at the linkages. I see one is not connected. The little plastic connector is missing where it connects to bank 1. The bank 1 butterfly rod moves freely and appears happy. I am thinking replace the plastic connector!
Another dealer takes a look and dig this. The dealer says they need to replace the entire IMRC control unit again at a whopping cost of $400.
They say that I can't buy the little 25 cent plastic connector and the only way to is to replace the unit! :screwy:
Someone PLEASE tell me that Ford is not that lame. :loser:
Where can I buy the connector?
Respectfully,
Joe
This on e should be easy! I can see exactly what the problem is.
The linkage going between the control module and the bank 1 came off and little plastic doodad clip/keeper is gone!
This IRMC control was replaced a year ago and is not in warranty.
The dealer says they need to replace both the control and the butterfly assembly at a cost of $950 :eek7:
Ok so I am not even wanting to go there. I use this wonderful forum to locate what the problem is and a thread directs me to look at the linkages. I see one is not connected. The little plastic connector is missing where it connects to bank 1. The bank 1 butterfly rod moves freely and appears happy. I am thinking replace the plastic connector!
Another dealer takes a look and dig this. The dealer says they need to replace the entire IMRC control unit again at a whopping cost of $400.
They say that I can't buy the little 25 cent plastic connector and the only way to is to replace the unit! :screwy:
Someone PLEASE tell me that Ford is not that lame. :loser:
Where can I buy the connector?
Respectfully,
Joe
bear_1961
04-20-2005, 09:07 PM
The ford dealer sells the little plastic clips 4 for $20.00. Go to the parts dept. and talk to the counter guy. Tell him what you need, don't talk to the service guy, he wants to sell you service not parts. Good luck.
Ok... I have read the other items relating to IRMC issues...
This on e should be easy! I can see exactly what the problem is.
The linkage going between the control module and the bank 1 came off and little plastic doodad clip/keeper is gone!
This IRMC control was replaced a year ago and is not in warranty.
The dealer says they need to replace both the control and the butterfly assembly at a cost of $950 :eek7:
Ok so I am not even wanting to go there. I use this wonderful forum to locate what the problem is and a thread directs me to look at the linkages. I see one is not connected. The little plastic connector is missing where it connects to bank 1. The bank 1 butterfly rod moves freely and appears happy. I am thinking replace the plastic connector!
Another dealer takes a look and dig this. The dealer says they need to replace the entire IMRC control unit again at a whopping cost of $400.
They say that I can't buy the little 25 cent plastic connector and the only way to is to replace the unit! :screwy:
Someone PLEASE tell me that Ford is not that lame. :loser:
Where can I buy the connector?
Respectfully,
Joe
Ok... I have read the other items relating to IRMC issues...
This on e should be easy! I can see exactly what the problem is.
The linkage going between the control module and the bank 1 came off and little plastic doodad clip/keeper is gone!
This IRMC control was replaced a year ago and is not in warranty.
The dealer says they need to replace both the control and the butterfly assembly at a cost of $950 :eek7:
Ok so I am not even wanting to go there. I use this wonderful forum to locate what the problem is and a thread directs me to look at the linkages. I see one is not connected. The little plastic connector is missing where it connects to bank 1. The bank 1 butterfly rod moves freely and appears happy. I am thinking replace the plastic connector!
Another dealer takes a look and dig this. The dealer says they need to replace the entire IMRC control unit again at a whopping cost of $400.
They say that I can't buy the little 25 cent plastic connector and the only way to is to replace the unit! :screwy:
Someone PLEASE tell me that Ford is not that lame. :loser:
Where can I buy the connector?
Respectfully,
Joe
wiswind
04-20-2005, 09:58 PM
I have read posts......where people have bought the plastic linkage parts from the FORD dealer....
webworks
04-20-2005, 10:09 PM
Thanks!
I will go tomorrow and get some (I hope)
I will also make sure to get the part number for the item so in the future people can find them online!
I will go tomorrow and get some (I hope)
I will also make sure to get the part number for the item so in the future people can find them online!
road_rascal
04-20-2005, 11:50 PM
Yeah, these IMRC's were a real brilliant design from Ford. I'd like to find the engineers to sat around and came up with that wonderful piece of work and beat them with an axe handle. My old '96 ate 3 of them (luckily I had an extended warranty). So far my '01 has been trouble free.
Does anyone know if the new Freestars use secondary intakes?
Does anyone know if the new Freestars use secondary intakes?
troopski
04-21-2005, 09:57 AM
This is an argument for keeping any little piece of hardware that is left over from any project around the house. When I discovered that the clip disappeared on my 99 WS I clipped the back end off of a small plastic drywall anchor so I was left with just the "head" of the anchor. I shoved that in the hole and replaced the rod. It's been over two months and it's still there!
bear_1961
04-21-2005, 10:00 AM
Amen brother! You rock! Money not in their pocket is still in mine! What a great idea.
This is an argument for keeping any little piece of hardware that is left over from any project around the house. When I discovered that the clip disappeared on my 99 WS I clipped the back end off of a small plastic drywall anchor so I was left with just the "head" of the anchor. I shoved that in the hole and replaced the rod. It's been over two months and it's still there!
This is an argument for keeping any little piece of hardware that is left over from any project around the house. When I discovered that the clip disappeared on my 99 WS I clipped the back end off of a small plastic drywall anchor so I was left with just the "head" of the anchor. I shoved that in the hole and replaced the rod. It's been over two months and it's still there!
webworks
04-21-2005, 12:14 PM
This is an argument for keeping any little piece of hardware that is left over from any project around the house. When I discovered that the clip disappeared on my 99 WS I clipped the back end off of a small plastic drywall anchor so I was left with just the "head" of the anchor. I shoved that in the hole and replaced the rod. It's been over two months and it's still there!
DUDE!
SWEEEEET :)
I spent an hour at the hardware store last night and did not find anything... maybe I will take a walk through the drywall isle :D
DUDE!
SWEEEEET :)
I spent an hour at the hardware store last night and did not find anything... maybe I will take a walk through the drywall isle :D
webworks
04-21-2005, 03:15 PM
THE FIX THAT WORKED FOR MY 2000 WINDSTAR IMRC LINKAGE WITH PICTURES! (DIY)
Big thanks for the tip on the "Plastic Dry wall Screw Anchors" posted by "troopski"
OK first you are going to need to get the IMRC (Intake Manifold Runner Control) module off. I was able to remove the 3 bolts with an 8mm socket and extension. Then I managed to wiggle the module out and did not even have to remove the alternator or belt. It would probably make it easier if I had.
http://www.lodinet.com/webworks/IMRC/location.jpg
Next get a razor blade and lighter.
Use the razor blade to cut down the length of the dry wall fastener down to about 3/16" as seen below then use the lighter to carefully soften the edges of the fastener and tilt them in a little so they will help to lock on the linkage rod.
I decided to use a dab of JB Weld so the new peaces I made will not pull out of their square mounting holes. Be careful not to get the JB Weld inside surfaces of the new peaces that will contact the rod. Mount all 4 of your new linkage connectors and let the JB Weld do it's thing (what ever the instructions say for the appropriate hardening time.) If you do not use JB Weld make sure the heat rating of what ever you use can deal with the engine compartment temps!
REMEMBER JB WELD IS AMAZINGLY DURABLE SO DON'T GO CRAZY USING IT YOU MIGHT HAVE TROUBLE GETTING IT OFF IF YOU SHOULD EVER HAVE TO!
http://www.lodinet.com/webworks/IMRC/parts.jpg
Now that the JB Weld is hardened/cured... go ahead and re-assemble the linkages and install the control module.
I put a little graphite on the contact surfaces where the plastic and linkage rods touch.
You will need to be creative to to get it all snapped together (needle nose pliers and a screwdriver helped me poke things back together).
I put a little graphite (dry lubricant) on the surfaces where the plastic and linkage rods contact.
It was not all that difficult.
Best of luck and thanks to everyone on this forum that had input!
Big thanks for the tip on the "Plastic Dry wall Screw Anchors" posted by "troopski"
OK first you are going to need to get the IMRC (Intake Manifold Runner Control) module off. I was able to remove the 3 bolts with an 8mm socket and extension. Then I managed to wiggle the module out and did not even have to remove the alternator or belt. It would probably make it easier if I had.
http://www.lodinet.com/webworks/IMRC/location.jpg
Next get a razor blade and lighter.
Use the razor blade to cut down the length of the dry wall fastener down to about 3/16" as seen below then use the lighter to carefully soften the edges of the fastener and tilt them in a little so they will help to lock on the linkage rod.
I decided to use a dab of JB Weld so the new peaces I made will not pull out of their square mounting holes. Be careful not to get the JB Weld inside surfaces of the new peaces that will contact the rod. Mount all 4 of your new linkage connectors and let the JB Weld do it's thing (what ever the instructions say for the appropriate hardening time.) If you do not use JB Weld make sure the heat rating of what ever you use can deal with the engine compartment temps!
REMEMBER JB WELD IS AMAZINGLY DURABLE SO DON'T GO CRAZY USING IT YOU MIGHT HAVE TROUBLE GETTING IT OFF IF YOU SHOULD EVER HAVE TO!
http://www.lodinet.com/webworks/IMRC/parts.jpg
Now that the JB Weld is hardened/cured... go ahead and re-assemble the linkages and install the control module.
I put a little graphite on the contact surfaces where the plastic and linkage rods touch.
You will need to be creative to to get it all snapped together (needle nose pliers and a screwdriver helped me poke things back together).
I put a little graphite (dry lubricant) on the surfaces where the plastic and linkage rods contact.
It was not all that difficult.
Best of luck and thanks to everyone on this forum that had input!
bear_1961
04-25-2005, 12:46 PM
The FORD part number for the bushing that is on the IMRC actuator rod is
F5RZ-9F955-AB . There is only one per pack.
www.y2kford.com/default.aspx?html=parts.html (http://www.y2kford.com/default.aspx?html=parts.html)
Part Number Search Results : OEM Catalog Item NumberListCore PricePriceF5RZ9F955AB$5.82$0.00$4.12
RETAINER-ENGINE THRO Add to Cart (http://www.trademotion.com/shoppingcart/index.cfm?action=addItem&return=accessory&siteid=214072&partid=176515&make=10&partname=RETAINER%2DENGINE%20THRO&catalogid=3) Contact Us (http://www.trademotion.com/storefront/index.cfm?action=contactus&siteid=214072&make=Ford&comment=Part Number F5RZ9F955AB: RETAINER%2DENGINE%20THRO)
This price is plus shipping.
***I do not work for y2kFord in any capacity nor do I endorse them. I just have found that they generally have the lowest price on genuine FORD parts. Usually 50% less than my local FORD dealers. Best of luck with your repairs.
F5RZ-9F955-AB . There is only one per pack.
www.y2kford.com/default.aspx?html=parts.html (http://www.y2kford.com/default.aspx?html=parts.html)
Part Number Search Results : OEM Catalog Item NumberListCore PricePriceF5RZ9F955AB$5.82$0.00$4.12
RETAINER-ENGINE THRO Add to Cart (http://www.trademotion.com/shoppingcart/index.cfm?action=addItem&return=accessory&siteid=214072&partid=176515&make=10&partname=RETAINER%2DENGINE%20THRO&catalogid=3) Contact Us (http://www.trademotion.com/storefront/index.cfm?action=contactus&siteid=214072&make=Ford&comment=Part Number F5RZ9F955AB: RETAINER%2DENGINE%20THRO)
This price is plus shipping.
***I do not work for y2kFord in any capacity nor do I endorse them. I just have found that they generally have the lowest price on genuine FORD parts. Usually 50% less than my local FORD dealers. Best of luck with your repairs.
webworks
04-26-2005, 12:53 PM
Just in case anyone needs the part number for a 2000 windstar IMRC Actuator
XF229559AA because the parts people at ford have no clue... :eek7:
XF229559AA because the parts people at ford have no clue... :eek7:
dandi
04-29-2005, 12:27 PM
So - what exactly do these clips do? My '99 is in the shop getting the CEL checked out, and I was told that these clips needed to be replaced. Being that we are heading to Washington DC tomorrow am, I told him to go ahead. Cost is $180 (including an oil change). But I'm wondering about the actual function of these clips...?
Thx, Dan
Thx, Dan
12Ounce
04-29-2005, 12:54 PM
The "bushings", "clips", etc ...are also "retainers", and when they fail, the linkages from the actuator motor to the IMRC itself just fall out of place ... usually jamming everthing up.
I think the Ford replacement parts must have been upgraded in material because I've got a 100k miles or more since replacement.
I think the Ford replacement parts must have been upgraded in material because I've got a 100k miles or more since replacement.
dandi
04-29-2005, 01:29 PM
The "bushings", "clips", etc ...are also "retainers", and when they fail, the linkages from the actuator motor to the IMRC itself just fall out of place ... usually jamming everthing up.
I think the Ford replacement parts must have been upgraded in material because I've got a 100k miles or more since replacement.
Interesting, well our van was running okay even though these clips needed replacing.... Does that make sense? It sounds like, from your description, we should have had some running issues but it ran as "well" as it normally does.... ;-)
Dan D
I think the Ford replacement parts must have been upgraded in material because I've got a 100k miles or more since replacement.
Interesting, well our van was running okay even though these clips needed replacing.... Does that make sense? It sounds like, from your description, we should have had some running issues but it ran as "well" as it normally does.... ;-)
Dan D
bear_1961
04-29-2005, 04:07 PM
If these clips break (which they do easily) it will effect your idle and can effect yor mileage. It "WILL" run seemingly fine without them but it will effect your mileage and top end power.
Interesting, well our van was running okay even though these clips needed replacing.... Does that make sense? It sounds like, from your description, we should have had some running issues but it ran as "well" as it normally does.... ;-)
Dan D
Interesting, well our van was running okay even though these clips needed replacing.... Does that make sense? It sounds like, from your description, we should have had some running issues but it ran as "well" as it normally does.... ;-)
Dan D
12Ounce
04-29-2005, 06:17 PM
I personally think the whole IMRC idea on a minivan is ridiculous. It affects performance only on the margins ... and it costs a lot to manufacture and is proving to be a maintenance nightmare.
dandi
04-29-2005, 06:36 PM
If these clips break (which they do easily) it will effect your idle and can effect yor mileage. It "WILL" run seemingly fine without them but it will effect your mileage and top end power.
Well, after picking up the car, it DOES run much more smoothly and feels more powerful, so I suspect that the performance was degrading over time (I don't drive the van a lot). I also noticed that the last tankful gave is 14.48 mpg, worse than it's usual lousy 17 mpg (my wife does 90% in-town driving). So, hopefully it will improve as well - off to Washington DC tomorrow so we'll check out the highway mpg....
Thanks, all....
Dan D
Well, after picking up the car, it DOES run much more smoothly and feels more powerful, so I suspect that the performance was degrading over time (I don't drive the van a lot). I also noticed that the last tankful gave is 14.48 mpg, worse than it's usual lousy 17 mpg (my wife does 90% in-town driving). So, hopefully it will improve as well - off to Washington DC tomorrow so we'll check out the highway mpg....
Thanks, all....
Dan D
webworks
04-29-2005, 11:29 PM
If these clips break (which they do easily) it will effect your idle and can effect your mileage. It "WILL" run seemingly fine without them but it will effect your mileage and top end power.
Yes! Exactly!
One broke on mine and one Intake manifold runner was working and the other was not.
I first noticed a small ping around 3000 RPM mild/moderate acceleration and since i never heard that before I looked around but found nothing...
We have a small camp trailer and when we towed it it sounded like we had a rod knock and I was real worried... was not long after that the check engine light came on and we got to the root of the problem.
Will this problem be completely obvious? Nope. my wife and kids could not hear the ping until we were hauling the trailer.
If you have a broken retainer you are not getting the proper air fuel mixture and I suppose that could result in a costly repair bill... burned valves? Or worse? I am not sure but it is obvious that the knock under a load was a BAD THING!
Yes! Exactly!
One broke on mine and one Intake manifold runner was working and the other was not.
I first noticed a small ping around 3000 RPM mild/moderate acceleration and since i never heard that before I looked around but found nothing...
We have a small camp trailer and when we towed it it sounded like we had a rod knock and I was real worried... was not long after that the check engine light came on and we got to the root of the problem.
Will this problem be completely obvious? Nope. my wife and kids could not hear the ping until we were hauling the trailer.
If you have a broken retainer you are not getting the proper air fuel mixture and I suppose that could result in a costly repair bill... burned valves? Or worse? I am not sure but it is obvious that the knock under a load was a BAD THING!
dandi
05-03-2005, 08:09 AM
Well, after running to DC and back, we got 20.5 mpg, which was the best highway gas mileage we've gotten in a while. I'm thinking it's about 3 mpg higher than in the recent past. That was with a LOT of stop-n-go traffic on the way home Sunday, too - not much steady-state running..... Now we need to check the in-town mileage this week, as my wife goes back and forth to work. Hopefully it will beat the 14.5 on the last (pre-repair) tankful!
Dan D
Dan D
dandi
05-17-2005, 06:39 AM
Just a follow-up on the in-town gas mileage - disappointing, to say the least - 15.5 mpg, vs 14.5 before.... I'm not convinced this is correct and am thinking that perhaps the tank wasn't filled all the way when I last got gas (here in NJ, no self-serve).... It seemed like we went longer than normal, about 10 days, so I will check it again next time.
Dan D
Dan D
586bryanh
11-26-2008, 05:42 PM
I have a 2000 windstar engine lights on codes po171/po174 come up. The shop said i need to replace the imrc were is it and how do you fix it. I am only getting 13 miles per gallon so i need to fixs it. Thanks
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