Hard Start - No Start

I have had a few times when restarting after a long run (hour plus of driving) that during the restart the idel is very rough, I step on the acelerator and it clears out and runs fine. This has happen maybe 6 times in 9 months.

Today I had a case that it would not restart at all. After many tries and about 30 minutes of cranking nothing, then all of a sudden it fired right up and ran as smooth as the day I bought it.

I have recently replace the fuel filter, and air filter and do regular maintenace, it is a 2000 with 84,000 miles.

Any ideas of what is causing this and how I might go about repairing it?

I would have the fuel pressure checked first. Have you had an engine light come on yet?Also check for vacuum leaks.

It sounds like what happened to my 99 windstar at about 80,000 miles. Sometimes it would stall out everytime I started it, even though it ran perfect before I shut it off. Other times it would start but idle rough. Other times it ran very smooth for many months with no problems. It turned out to be a sticking Idle Air Control Solonoid. The are not cheap, but it is something you can buy and replace youself.

Could it also be a stuck EGR valve?

If you had a Tester you could check the resistants. First unpug the IAC and test the volts coming from the PCM, key In run position with the vehicle not running - Volts should be nearly the same as what your battery is 10 to 13 volts. If this is good go to step 2 test the resistance between the 2 prongs on the IAC it should range betwwen 6.0 to 13.0 ohms if not replace it. I bought one for 44 dollars with tax. If this test passes go to step 3 check to see what the resistance is between any 1 terminal prong from IAC with the negative lead on the housing of the IAC - resistance should be at least 10,000 ohms, if less than the internal circut is shorting out against the case replace the IAC. If your van is not a 3.8 call Auto parts store and get the resistance numbers

I do have a tester and will work on testing as you recommend. Could you tell me where the IAC is...or what it looks like Thanks,

I agree with all the checks already posted above. Since you have a tester, I would also recommend you test the fuses in place with a voltmeter. There are test points provided on the tops of the narrow fuses. With key "on", each narrow fuse in the battery box should have 13 volts.

There are many ways that an IAC can fail, all of which will give symptoms as you describe.

The way to test for an IAC trouble is to gently press on the accelerator, if it starts right off, the IAC is stuck. Of all the IAC solenoids that I have repalced, every one was stuck, not shorted, burned etc., but sticking.