compressor not coming on 200o windstar
drummer521
03-30-2005, 03:50 PM
Help! My 2000 Windstar, the ac only blows warm air. My dad said the compressor is not coming on, hubby checked fuses, all ok, hoses ok too. ANybody know what might be causing this? I live in Texas with 3 little kids and we HAVE to have an air conditioner!!!
Thanks!
drummer521
Thanks!
drummer521
BCMedic
03-30-2005, 08:00 PM
Have you checked the plug on the compressor?
I'm not positive but I believe these systems have a pressure switch which will not allow the compressor to kick in if the refridgerant charge is low.
You may need to take it in for a pressure test and find out if you have any leaks.
I'm not positive but I believe these systems have a pressure switch which will not allow the compressor to kick in if the refridgerant charge is low.
You may need to take it in for a pressure test and find out if you have any leaks.
cougarman
03-30-2005, 08:14 PM
Have you checked the plug on the compressor?
I'm not positive but I believe these systems have a pressure switch which will not allow the compressor to kick in if the refridgerant charge is low.
You may need to take it in for a pressure test and find out if you have any leaks.
I agree with BCMedic and yes it does have a pressure switch.
I'm not positive but I believe these systems have a pressure switch which will not allow the compressor to kick in if the refridgerant charge is low.
You may need to take it in for a pressure test and find out if you have any leaks.
I agree with BCMedic and yes it does have a pressure switch.
12Ounce
03-31-2005, 12:50 PM
If you have a small leak but have not lost ALL your refrigerant (i.e, the compressor comes in but only for a few seconds) you may have luck with one of these off-the-shelf 134a recharge kits that is nothing but a pressurized bottle with a pressure gauge and hose attached. These things are available at all aftermarket outlets such as Advance and AutoZone.
The idea is you hook the provided hose to the SUCTION side of the compressor .... usually the fitting on the larger tubing. When the compressor comes in, it will reduce the pressure on the gauge. The lowest reading should not be lower than 25 psi. You squirt refrigerant into the system until you get the lowest reading to be between 25 and 45 psi. Not higher ... not lower.
Follow the instructions on the container ... especially those concerning eye and hand protection.
If your compressor does not now come in at all ... then you likely need further technical help. You can watch the ac compressor clutch engage by looking down on it ... may require a flashlight. It will "click" when engaging .. but disengages rather silently.
The idea is you hook the provided hose to the SUCTION side of the compressor .... usually the fitting on the larger tubing. When the compressor comes in, it will reduce the pressure on the gauge. The lowest reading should not be lower than 25 psi. You squirt refrigerant into the system until you get the lowest reading to be between 25 and 45 psi. Not higher ... not lower.
Follow the instructions on the container ... especially those concerning eye and hand protection.
If your compressor does not now come in at all ... then you likely need further technical help. You can watch the ac compressor clutch engage by looking down on it ... may require a flashlight. It will "click" when engaging .. but disengages rather silently.
mastermech
04-04-2005, 12:53 PM
to anyone with a/c issues remember this, all a/c lose freon because of the pores in the hoses. On old r-12 systems losing a 1/4lb per year was normal. on newer ones losing an 1/8 to a 1/4 is normal. As for the ford compressor. The post I've read are right. The system sounds like it needs some R-134. Important though is to do this in a shaded area with the temp outside being around 70 degrees, with the windows up and blower motor on high, and check the temp at the vent near the blower motor should be anywhere from high 40's to mid 50's at the vent. And the compressor should cycle (on-off) every eight seconds. And run the system for a while to let it stablize. Good Luck.
cing100
06-12-2005, 09:26 PM
to anyone with a/c issues remember this, all a/c lose freon because of the pores in the hoses. On old r-12 systems losing a 1/4lb per year was normal. on newer ones losing an 1/8 to a 1/4 is normal. As for the ford compressor. The post I've read are right. The system sounds like it needs some R-134. Important though is to do this in a shaded area with the temp outside being around 70 degrees, with the windows up and blower motor on high, and check the temp at the vent near the blower motor should be anywhere from high 40's to mid 50's at the vent. And the compressor should cycle (on-off) every eight seconds. And run the system for a while to let it stablize. Good Luck. I am having trouble with my AC on my '95 Windstar. I have no colling whatsoever. System pressure is 70psi so I assume the refrigerant is fine. The compressor is cycling on and off every few seconds - this can't be right. Also - this is probably unrelated but my fan switch only works in the highest position also. Thanks to anyone who can help!!!
CoachKarl
06-12-2005, 10:23 PM
My experience is . . .
Here in S. Georgia, an unattended, non working AC system during summer months, on your wifes car will quickly be remedied by 36 months of car payments.
Sudden AC failure on my 95 3.8 turned out to be a bad "compressor clutch cycling switch". It cost less than $20. It is located on the passenger side wall of the engine compartment, It has two wires, and sticks out horizontally of the quart sized "black thing" behind the windshield washer juice bottle. If the AC stopped working "suddenly" try this first.
Karl
PS. I originally diagnosed this by 1. Consulting Haynes manual 2. Checking coolant pressure (OK). 3. Pulling off alt, checking continuity of AC compressor jack (OK) 4. Running a hot wire from the battery to test throwing the clutch. (Clutch snapped properly) 5. Consulted haynes manual again. 6. Bought switch. Problem solved.
Here in S. Georgia, an unattended, non working AC system during summer months, on your wifes car will quickly be remedied by 36 months of car payments.
Sudden AC failure on my 95 3.8 turned out to be a bad "compressor clutch cycling switch". It cost less than $20. It is located on the passenger side wall of the engine compartment, It has two wires, and sticks out horizontally of the quart sized "black thing" behind the windshield washer juice bottle. If the AC stopped working "suddenly" try this first.
Karl
PS. I originally diagnosed this by 1. Consulting Haynes manual 2. Checking coolant pressure (OK). 3. Pulling off alt, checking continuity of AC compressor jack (OK) 4. Running a hot wire from the battery to test throwing the clutch. (Clutch snapped properly) 5. Consulted haynes manual again. 6. Bought switch. Problem solved.
fdunford
06-13-2005, 08:38 AM
Mine too was just a bad compressor clutch cycling switch, cost about $20 and took all of 5 minutes to change.
cing100
06-25-2005, 10:06 AM
Hello, Do you have to discharge the system to replace this switch?
Thanks Much!
Thanks Much!
kurtr
06-25-2005, 11:29 AM
Also - this is probably unrelated but my fan switch only works in the highest position also.
This is a bad Blower Motor Resistor. This is a very easy fix. It is in the air stream either above the passenger's feet or behind the glove box -- I cannot remember. Get the new one first so you know what you are looking for. Two screws.
This is a bad Blower Motor Resistor. This is a very easy fix. It is in the air stream either above the passenger's feet or behind the glove box -- I cannot remember. Get the new one first so you know what you are looking for. Two screws.
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