Speedometer doen't work when it cold out. 97' SC2

During the summer time it works fine. If it gets below about 50 degrees out you have to have the heater on and drive about 15-20 minutes to warm the dash (cable?) up enough to work and then is slowly comes around and works fine. Does anyone know if there is a fix I can do to it without going and paying money for a new speedometer? It's not getting any worse or better. It's done this for a few years now. It's just that when I have my 15 minute drive to work in the winter, I can't tell how fast I'm going so I use the tach to estimate. Kinda annoying

no cable, the dash and PCM use an electric signal from the VSS(vehical speed sensor, mounted on transmission above the right output shaft). is there ANY movement of the needle or is it as dead as a rock? if you have a manual, when cold can you rev above 4K(when the computer doesn't receive a signal from the VSS, it sets the rev limiter at 4 K), if you have a auto trans, when cold will the trans shift out of 1st? any SES light? (i just want to confirm the gauge cluster is bad, not the VSS)

in my manual, in nuetral, I cannot rev above 4K (stutter box?), you mean in gear I suppose... or is my satilac ;) wierd

in my manual, in nuetral, I cannot rev above 4K (stutter box?), you mean in gear I suppose... or is my satilac ;) wierd

when the PCM reads 0-1 MPH from the VSS, the rev limiter is set to 4K. if the PCM reads anything above 2 MPH, the limiter is set near the read line. this is so people can't distory their engines by reving under no load.

Thats what I thought was up, thanks for the info. Good thing it has this precaution set or yeah, I might be posting "how do i rebuild an engine?" :lol:
Makes perfect since with the situation listed originally

This issue that I have doesn't have anything to do with the tach, rev limiter or anything. It's almost like the cable is a little gummy or there is a thicker grease in it that won't allow the needle to move freely unless the temp around the dash warms up enough. (50's or 60's give or take). Anyone know if there is something to take off and clean? cable?, need pivot? or other ideas?

reread what i wrote ^^^^

there is no cable, instead a VSS sensor is used. the rev limiter is dependent on the VSS, therefore, testing the rev limiter is a simple, easy test of the VSS.

if it is the gauge cluster and not the VSS, then thats pretty much it, its replaced as an entire assembly. but since you don't have anything to lose, you may want to play around with the cluster anyway and see if you can't find the problem and save a few bucks.