Radiator/Water Pump

Hello All,

Seems like everytime I get one problem fixed another appears!! Anyway just wanted to know if any of you had the problem that I'm having right now??

My Temp Guage went to hot and I noticed that there was no heat from the vents. Looked outside for antifreeze leak none apparent. Checked one of the rad hoses going into the rad, very hot, but near the rad cap, I opened it and the fluid was only warm.

I was told that it could be the water pump not working, a radiator blockage or even the belt not driving the pump correctly.

What should I be looking for and in which order?? Any ideas!!!

did you check your thermostat ?? May not be opening fully or at all

did you check your thermostat ?? May not be opening fully or at all

How do I check the thermostat? And where would it be located??

Is your engine a 3.0 or 3.8

Is your engine a 3.0 or 3.8

Its a 3.8 engine

Look for the big hose going to the top of the engine. radiator hose that is it should be around the intake area torwards the top I am going blind because my wife has got the van. It will connect to the housing of the thermo usally 2-3 bolts. there well be after thats tooken off a peace with a dome shaped head with a spring interconected to it you will need to replace the paper seal only add just a little sealer when reinstalling.but once you have it out you can drop in boiling or almost boiling water and watch it open if it does not its bad or does not open fully. it better to use a thermometer if its set to 180 it will open at that temp or if it 190 like some it will open then. but just a quick check you can get to boiling or wait tell it opens ethier way for 4.00 bucks its better to rule it out and not worry about it. The seal comes with the thermostat. sorry so choppy. Just let me know if you can find the thermostat housing first. My advice if you dont think you can do it. its better to get someone because it will leak if you dont seal it back right I replaces a bunch and side mounts leak most of the time until you finally get it right.Not too much sealer and not too little. Sometimes the paper it self will work thats what I normally do first.Its an easy fix though.Hope this helps. Gary

Look for the big hose going to the top of the engine. radiator hose that is it should be around the intake area torwards the top I am going blind because my wife has got the van. It will connect to the housing of the thermo usally 2-3 bolts. there well be after thats tooken off a peace with a dome shaped head with a spring interconected to it you will need to replace the paper seal only add just a little sealer when reinstalling.but once you have it out you can drop in boiling or almost boiling water and watch it open if it does not its bad or does not open fully. it better to use a thermometer if its set to 180 it will open at that temp or if it 190 like some it will open then. but just a quick check you can get to boiling or wait tell it opens ethier way for 4.00 bucks its better to rule it out and not worry about it. The seal comes with the thermostat. sorry so choppy. Just let me know if you can find the thermostat housing first. My advice if you dont think you can do it. its better to get someone because it will leak if you dont seal it back right I replaces a bunch and side mounts leak most of the time until you finally get it right.Not too much sealer and not too little. Sometimes the paper it self will work thats what I normally do first.Its an easy fix though.Hope this helps. Gary
I just added some antifreeze(about 2 L) and let it idle for about 10 min, and took it for a short drive. The temp guage was about normal, and there was heat in the vents. Does this make sense or should I research it a little more??

You may want to replace the thermostat, just to be on the safe side.
The new thermostat should have a very small hole....that should be at the top when installed.
This hole is to permit air to escape..into the radiator....and out through the overflow bottle...in the event that you get air into the system.

It is possible that this is what happened.......
The air will go the the highest point in the motor.....which is the thermostat. If it cannot escape through the small hole I mentioned......(could have gotten clogged) then the air will act as an insulator.....and keep the thermostat from opening at the correct temp.

Yea would agree with wiswind.. Still may want to change it. I will say this if it over heats again. shut it down.sometimes therostats stick and start to work usally after they over heat. Also with these newer closed type systems if you loose a little fluid they may over heat as well . My chevey malibu did that one time.But the filler tank was almost empty. Still had a little in the bottom. Good luck.

I was told that the antifreeze leak was at the timing cover? Has anyone had any problems with this?? Thermostat and Water Pump Ok. My mechanic done a compression test, and found a leak on the timing cover(at least I think that is what he said)

There have been some front cover coolant leaks. I believe they happened more on '98 and earlier units.

There have been some front cover coolant leaks. I believe they happened more on '98 and earlier units.

My mechanic told me to take it for a week, keep an eye on the temp guage and the coolant level. He said that if there was indeed a head gasket leak I should see a change in the van. If there are no signs, then a good chance it would be the timing cover.
Does this sound correct? What should I be looking for?

He wanted me to do this so that I can eliminate the extreme possibility of head gaskets before fixing the problem.

Any ideas or concerns???

If you see any coolant leaks anywhere outside the engine ....that would be good news.

It's the coolant that finds its way into the crankcase or combustion chamber that leads to disaster. Keep an eye on the dipstick ... a little coolant will make the oil murky/milky ... a lot of coolant will be obvious. Any coolant in the oil would be a signal to stop driving the car as soon as you can.

If you see or smell coolant at the exhaust ... that's just as bad.

Often a blown head gasket will push oil into the coolant passages. Sometimes bubbles are visible. An oil slick in the coolant reservoir is an indicator.

If you see any coolant leaks anywhere outside the engine ....that would be good news.

It's the coolant that finds its way into the crankcase or combustion chamber that leads to disaster. Keep an eye on the dipstick ... a little coolant will make the oil murky/milky ... a lot of coolant will be obvious. Any coolant in the oil would be a signal to stop driving the car as soon as you can.

If you see or smell coolant at the exhaust ... that's just as bad.

Often a blown head gasket will push oil into the coolant passages. Sometimes bubbles are visible. An oil slick in the coolant reservoir is an indicator.

My mechanic said that there was an external leak which was on the timing cover after he placed a overnight pressure test.Would this be something that would be noticeable right away if it were a head gasket? The van seems to run fine, not rough. I put some antifreeze in the tank, ran it for two trips approx 50KM and the temp guage was about half.

When you say murkey/milky do you mean a whitish colour?

If he saw leakage outside the engine "upper" after a pressure test, I'm betting it is not caused by a head gasket.

The front cover and the lower intake manifold are now candidates.

My money is on the front cover.

Yes, "whitist".

Hey 12Ounce,

What drivibility issues would I have if it is indeed a head gasket?

Thanks
Pryornfld

You may initially get some "skipping", especially at start-up. As it gets worse ... a noticeable loss of power at any time.

If the fluids get mixed, ....a crank case failure of some sort will follow.

I have a '96 3.8L.
My "timing cover gasket" leaks.
This is a common issue.
I was told by the dealer that it is just a seepage....and not to worry about it....They said that it is a $1700 repair job. Reason.....step #1 is to remove engine from car.
The gasket is less than $20.....the cost is in the labor.

The Autozone website instructions....

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/31/4d/0900823d801d314d.jsp

If the link does not work...it is under vehicle repair information, engine, Front cover and seal.

They give instructions on the repair without removing the engine. I have read a few posts on this forum where people have done the repair with the engine in the car.....but it is still a big job.

You DO have to lift the passenger side of the engine up in order to get the clearance for the water pump pulley.

You also have to drop the oil pan.....which on my car would require you do drop the "Y" pipe.....which is the 2 catalytic converters and the pipes to the exhaust manifold. The front catalytic converter is right at the oil pan.

Anyhow.....read through the instructions....and you will see what is involved.

As mine was just a "seepage", I put stop leak in the coolant.

Also, from what I have read, the head gasket failure is caused by very close spacing of the coolant passages to the oil passages, and cylinder wall at Cylinders #1 and #4.
The failure is caused by the coolant weaping into the head gasket at these narrow points....and weakening it.....ultimately causing it to fail.
I am at 147K miles on my original gaskets......
I add the stop leak as a preventative measure for the head gasket....as well as to take care of the seapage at the front cover.....which is also called timing cover.
Many new cars get stop leak added to the coolant at the factory to address potential leaks. And when the dealer does a coolant flush.....they add the pellets to the new coolant.

So, if your leaks at the timing cover are more of a seapage.....I would recommend that you get the Bars "Stop Leak" tablets and add them to the coolant. Right now, I have the "Liquid Aluminium" in my coolant.

Many would disagree with adding stop leak.....but that is what I decided to do for my situation after much reading.

The Bar's product is what seems to be highly recommended from other people.

I would steer away from the "head gasket repair" stuff......as.....once the head gasket fails, the best approach would seem to be to replace it. Also, with those products, you have to totally flush out all the antifreeze.....and then follow the instructions from there.

It is not sounding like your head gaskets have failed, from what you have said. If the overnight pressure test did not put coolant into the cylinder(s) or into the oil, they are most likely OK.