00 Police Impala Shaking with Acceleration

I have a 2000 Police Impala with 74K miles. When I accelerated from 30 through 45 mph I get a shaking in the car. It seems to come from the left side. Note: The steering wheel is not shaking (Rotors). When I let off the gas it stops shaking. It will start again with acceleration. Seems to stop when I get to around 50 mph but picks up again at 70mph.

I have had the tires checked, rebalanced, car aligned, and the brakes checked -- all OK. Any help would be GREATLY apprecitated.

Thank you.

what exactly shakes, the whole car, or the pedels, is it a rattling.

It feels like the whole car shakes not either of the pedals. Thank you for your reply.

check your wheel lugs sounds like a lose lugnut

dont hate if im wrong

well, I cant think of anything definite, but one thing is perhaps the shaking at different speeds and not others, might be the road itself. but if your tires were balanced and everything, perhaps the suspension, maybe broken spring, control arm. but id have the suspension checked.

Is it a flutter type of shake?

Noticable or Violent car shake?

Could be something with the transmission, Try Checking the Tranny Fluid to see if there is lots of black or grey in the liquid.

check cv axled maybe your inner joint is worn on one side....

Try this go out to your car take the e-brake off and leave it in park, lift the hood up then start to rock the car front to rear. If u see the engine start to shake and move back and forth u need new engine mounts. I experienced the same thing you mentioned and after new engine mounts the problem went away. Good luck

check cv axled maybe your inner joint is worn on one side....


Thanks. I will have it checked. I just had the damn wheel bearing assembly changed on the right side because the "mechanic" heard it clicking on the hoist with a scope. No luck. Damn thing is getting too expensive to keep guessing at fixes.

Try this go out to your car take the e-brake off and leave it in park, lift the hood up then start to rock the car front to rear. If u see the engine start to shake and move back and forth u need new engine mounts. I experienced the same thing you mentioned and after new engine mounts the problem went away. Good luck


Good Idea Pat. Appreciate it. I will check it out. Thanks

so have you figuredd it out yet. if not I got an idea. I was at sutozone and while waiting I was looking at there mats with common problems that they lay out, and it said somethingl ike, shaking at higher speeds, clunks at lower speeds, whining around turns or something. you dont have all these symtoms, but it said the cv joint. but I believe if you ended up getting your suspension checked out they would have found that. but its worth looking into.

so have you figuredd it out yet. if not I got an idea. I was at sutozone and while waiting I was looking at there mats with common problems that they lay out, and it said somethingl ike, shaking at higher speeds, clunks at lower speeds, whining around turns or something. you dont have all these symtoms, but it said the cv joint. but I believe if you ended up getting your suspension checked out they would have found that. but its worth looking into.


Thanks for the tip. I have been going absolutely crazy with this damn shaking. NOBODY can seem to figure it out. I will have to check the CV Joint. Don't know what it is but will have to ask. Probably cost my left nut to fix. I will post later to see if it helped. Thanks again.

so have you figuredd it out yet. if not I got an idea. I was at sutozone and while waiting I was looking at there mats with common problems that they lay out, and it said somethingl ike, shaking at higher speeds, clunks at lower speeds, whining around turns or something. you dont have all these symtoms, but it said the cv joint. but I believe if you ended up getting your suspension checked out they would have found that. but its worth looking into.

My car started whining around turns after I took a 'somewhat' hard 180 turn. No tire screech or anything, just a hard turn. I'd hate to think I broke something else in my suspension :eek:

ok, a 180 "turn" is not a turn, ok, its a turn-around. which does have the word turn in it, but if you "turn" 180, your going back the way you came. that aint no turn. so unless you were pulling a fast u-turn, but when you say a hard 180 turn, im thinking at like 50 mph and that aint no turn. maybe its just the smart ass in me but that just doesnt sound right. but if you did turn hard, and escpesially when most people do u-turns or turn for a long period of time they turn the wheel as far as it can go, if you do that, you can listen close and hear the power steering pump makes noises, tom e they sound like the power steering pump creaming lay the fuck off of me. anyways if I can get the smart ass out of me for now. dont turn your wheel all the way, ease off like an inch or two. when you turn your wheel to its extent it can hurt the power steering pump over time

son of a bitch, now my car is shaking around 50 :/ guess its time i get CV checked

holy crap, how many people are going to all of a sudden get this happen to them. we need to figure out what the problem is.

ok, a 180 "turn" is not a turn, ok, its a turn-around. which does have the word turn in it, but if you "turn" 180, your going back the way you came. that aint no turn. so unless you were pulling a fast u-turn, but when you say a hard 180 turn, im thinking at like 50 mph and that aint no turn. maybe its just the smart ass in me but that just doesnt sound right. but if you did turn hard, and escpesially when most people do u-turns or turn for a long period of time they turn the wheel as far as it can go, if you do that, you can listen close and hear the power steering pump makes noises, tom e they sound like the power steering pump creaming lay the fuck off of me. anyways if I can get the smart ass out of me for now. dont turn your wheel all the way, ease off like an inch or two. when you turn your wheel to its extent it can hurt the power steering pump over time

Its been a long week, i'm sure you understood what I meant without pointing out all my bad english. It was not at 50, more like 25-30, when turning 180 degrees can be a lot of force on the car, its a messed up intersection I go through everyday. Maybe later i'll illustrate it. Just one day after making the turn the car had a whine to it, noticeable while going straight and when turning and NOT while turning to the right or left to the max.

My car always has had some shakes to it at higher speeds, hard to tell if its the road or the car most of the time, givin michigan's sub-par roads. The ball joints and the control arm bushings have been replaced and did help the car. The whine is the newest problem (aside from the wipers stuck upright... I know how to fix it, just lack the time)

holy crap, how many people are going to all of a sudden get this happen to them. we need to figure out what the problem is.

Good way to put the problem, sudden, car is fine one day and isn't the next. It'll be awhile before my car is in the shop again (~3 weeks), but i'll keep posted if anything is found with my particular car, I'm more curious about Pieter's problem that seems un-solvable.

I have the same thing with my '01. I notice it more @ about 45mph - 70mph. If I am slowly accelerating it vibrates like it's out of alignment...stearing wheel, the car, everything shakes. Let off the gas, and the vibration stops.

If I give it alot of gas, so it downshifts, there is hardly any vibration...or at least not abnormal amounts.


This is the whole reason I joined this forum to try and find a solution to this problem.

My mechanic told me it was my alignment...which I denied, but had done anyway. Not fixed.

I have a friend that is a mechanic and he said it's possibly something to do with spark plugs or wires...So I'm gonna try that...since it's alot cheaper than goin to the shop.

I'm praying that's what it is. Was also thinking about the motor mounts like someone suggested earlier in this thread.


Plz if anyone has a solution plz share...I'm wasting alot of hard earned money that would be better spent elsewhere.

If the motor mounts are the problem, how much is it to have them replaced. Is that an expensive repair? I have the same issue with my impala (shaking thru acceleration) up to 40mph then it seemd to go away around 40-70mph and then over 70mph the car starts to shake again.

Well I'd like to think that if it was the motor mounts...it would be worse with more acceleration, than with less acceleration. So I don't think my problem has to do with that.

As for the cost of motor mounts...I'm not really sure on that. Can't see it costing that much, at least under $500. But I've never had it done before so not to sure.

Typical of the inner cv joint more than the outer

I have a 2000 Police Impala with 74K miles. When I accelerated from 30 through 45 mph I get a shaking in the car. It seems to come from the left side. Note: The steering wheel is not shaking (Rotors). When I let off the gas it stops shaking. It will start again with acceleration. Seems to stop when I get to around 50 mph but picks up again at 70mph.

I have had the tires checked, rebalanced, car aligned, and the brakes checked -- all OK. Any help would be GREATLY apprecitated.

Thank you.

I had that problem last year, the shuttering would clear at about 60/70 mph. I had new tires and an alignment and it went away. One mechanic said the tires got out of alignment rotation and the uneven wear caused it. The tires needed replacement anyway.

I love my Good Year Triple Tread. Car handles better then ever....

-Tom

shaking on acceleration is most likely CV joint.They usually last along time unless the boot got ripped or your teenage kids are beating the hell out of it.

shaking on acceleration is most likely CV joint.They usually last along time unless the boot got ripped or your teenage kids are beating the hell out of it.

Hey I resent that! :evillol:

I'm waiting for mine to fail... I don't think they've ever been replaced and with nearly 165k on the clock + police use. Its coming... oh god!

On another note, don't suppose anyone has part numbers/prices for upper engine mounts. ???

if you are talkin about the 2 dog bone mounts up top the part # is 10420009 and they are 11.74 at gmpartsdirect.com

if you are talkin about the 2 dog bone mounts up top the part # is 10420009 and they are 11.74 at gmpartsdirect.com

Strange... That its listed in part description 'STRUT'

I know the dog-bone part is the same on both sides on the top, i'm speaking of the actual casting looking part that connects the dog-bone part to the engine. I'll pose an engine bay shot of exactly what I mean in a few.

[edit]

Okay heres a shot of what im talking about.

http://kmfdr.net/kmfdr/dth/engine what.jpg

Thats the exact one i'm speaking of also.

gimmie 5 min, i'll look it up in the catalog...i saw that part too the strut is the middle part

Suggestion, could be broken tire belt or lost wheel wt. (balance) switch front to rear tires if still does it is something other also be sure wheel mounting surfaces are clean.

gimmie 5 min, i'll look it up in the catalog...i saw that part too the strut is the middle part


K, shall wait for reply, i'll be gone till sunday night anyways, so no rush.

My car is doing the same fricking thing...I have had the tires balanced and rotated...When i step on the acceleator, it's really bad, but when i let off the gas it's still there, just not as bad. I keep blaming it on the tires and everything....It's driving me up a wall and it's annoying....no clicking or anything, and the brakes sqeak like no tomorrow.....and i checked them and they are fine.....it's so bad you start to grit your teeth because it's so intense and loud...kinda like when someone drags their finger nails down a chalk board.....lol...and you just cringe from it.... I really don't know what to do about it. It's really bad at about 40 mph, then it goes away a little bit, then it gets bad again around 55-60 mph. This ones got me...no idea...

let me know,
mike

To stop the brakes from squealing you need to take the pads back off and cover the with the anti sqeal silicone crap.It usually comes with the pads if not u can buy some at any autoparts store

I haev an 01 9C1 and had the same problem. When I accellerated the car vibrated, especially going around turns. When I let off the gas there was very little to no vibration. I had my driveshafts replaced and the car runs smooth now. I bet your driveshafts are toast (or one of them anyway). Good luck.
Mike :banghead:

has anyone ever fixed this problem mines started doing this last week and not sure what to fix

I'm having similar probs at the higher speeds - 45-70ish - it was sporadic, but now consistent

Saw this posted elsewhere

It Worked!

I can't say that I'm very mechanically inclined. But I'm at least a bit adventurous, and I know how to follow instructions, so I wasn't afraid to try a swap on the CV axle -- and it ended up working out. It wasn't easy...

I didn't really have any good pictures or instructions, even though the replacement CV axle came with a step by step and I had access to Repairpath.com for my car (worthless, really).

The only major problem I had was removing the tie rod end from the steering knuckle -- which after being instructed to do so -- I probably didn't have to do for this job. The bolt under the tie rod ball joint would absolutely NOT come off. After being loosened a bit, it just spins. So after destroying the boot that protects the ball joint and trying channel locks to hold that bolt from spinning unsuccesfully multiple times -- I used the most effective tool for the job. A hack saw.

Yes I spent $50 more dollars for a replacement tie rod end -- but at least I was able to continue with the repair. Make sure you spray paint the inner arm to mark it for how far to screw the replacement part back on...

After that -- the job was easy. After using a pickle fork and a few BANG BANGS to break loose the lower control arm ball joint, it was easy to use a pry bar to remove it from the steering knuckle. It swings free after that work and allows you the room you need to remove the CV axle from both ends. You need to loosen the stablizer bar link from the control arm to allow a little play in the control arm -- and the pry bar is required to bust it loose.

Once the control arm ball joint is free, the rest was pretty easy. The CV joint came away from the wheel bearing without a puller tool -- but it took a few taps with a hammer. It didn't come out of the transmission easy -- but with some persistence and a few trys with a prying screwdriver, it also came loose.

I was glad to see that fluid didn't come spilling out -- becauase I didn't drain it like the instructions said (and it worked out OK).

While I have to admit that the steering needs aligned (due to the tie rod probably not getting put back on perfectly to the same number of turns), the rumble and vibration is completely gone (high speed, right turn and all).

Successful repair -- and thanks to just asking a few questions on this forum and others. I really thank you guys that know what you are doing. This makes a real difference...

I can't wait to start buying the performance upgrades for this car and trying to install them...
__________________


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I as well have had this issue. The horrible wobble/ shake on the passenger side when accelerating around 40mph, then again around 70mph. So what I have done to try to resolve the issue.
Had all tires balanced and aligned- didn't help
Change both side tie rod ends- didn't help
Change the Wheel bearings, both sides- didn't help
Replace Struts- didn't help
Change Both CV Axles- didn't help
I have no clue what else to do?

Take a good look at all the Eng and Trans mounts for worn/collapsed/ oil soked and soft.

Ok, I finally figured what was wrong. I did change both cv axles, but the one on the driver side was bad from the factory. There was a grove inside of the boot that was causing pressure against the motor on the driver side, then causing the passenger side to wobble and shake during right hand turns. I know this sounds crazy, but that was the issue.