Radiator Flush Help

I'm embarrassed to admit I've never thought about changing the coolant in my car. Though after today...

Looked under the hood today - something I'm not accustomed to doing at all. Realized what I had smelled earlier in the morning I recognized once I opened up the lid for the coolant reserve (mind you, this wasn't why I opened the hood though).

Found very little in there - and what I found sure didn't look like the coolant I know - it was thick sludge - like brown mud! Opened the radiator cap and found the same.

So, now I'm looking on the web for instructions on how to do this - I see how to flush the radiator, most sites are generalized. But, I don't see where they mention sludge / mud looking material in them. Would you have to do anything differently having this vs one that's fairly clean?

I see where some sites recommend a kit and others say not to use this kit to flush out your radiator on older cars - I have a 98 WINDSTAR-older? Also, one mentioned some type of radiator stuff to help clean out the gunk - needed? Recommended?

Can anyone give me any advice on how to do this not only easily but properly (be gentle). Geez, just one more thing to add to what's wrong with my car - just took it to the transmission shop yesterday! That's a whole other story and dilemma! My Dad asked me today, "What's wrong with your car?" I replied, "Where do you want me to start?"

Walking to the Auto Zone up the street in the morning, so will check to see if any of you great minds can provide me with some instructions :)

THANKS!!!

Debbie

Prestone makes a flush product.
I have used it on other cars, not my Windstar.
I would also recommend the Prestone antifreeze.
Get the normal stuff....ethyline glycol.
It is possible that at some point a stop leak product was added.....which would make the coolant look crudy.
I have some leak sealer in mine right now......to address a slight seapage at the timing cover....
So I do not use any cleaners...
But, I do drain and fill the system.

The FORD intructions say to flush the HEATER core SEPARATELY.....or you run the risk of clogging it. By heater core....I mean the heater that is in the car....keeps you warm.
To flush it, you would remove both hoses (in the engine compartment) and run water through to flush it out.

Go to www.autozone.com and look under vehicle specific repair information....and you should find some instructions there....perhaps some pictures or diagrams.

Take note that it is normal for some air to become trapped in the system when doing this job.....so take a short drive to make sure that things are flowing correctly (there is a small hole in the thermostat to permit air to escape.....if it is not clogged). Then you will need to add more coolant to replace the stuff that filled the air space.

Thanks for the info. Are these hoses easy to find?

No stop leak ever added that I'm aware of, if so, was done without my knowledge.

I read that some suggest taking out the plastic reserve tank and cleaning that - suggested?

Is it worth it for me to tackle this job as far as cost wise? I have no clue what this would cost for a mechanic to do, but if I walk out of Auto Zone with all I need and it's close to what a garage would charge, I'd opt for them to do it. I'm lucky I was able to check my fuses (can't they put those in a place where it's easier to get to - just loved laying half in and half out of the car!)

I really appreciate the help - I'm really trying to educate myself so I can try and at least fix one of the numerous problems I have in my car, and they are numerous. I've searched the web and can't find answers to many of the problems I'm having. If I can fix one problem I'd feel somewhat empowered!

Just read the newspaper - PEPBOYS has a coupon for a COOLANT FLUSH & FILL for $49.99 and includes:

Pressure test the cooling system and radiator cap
Chemically flush cooling system
Drain cooling system
Refill system with up to 2 gallons of antifreeze
Check condition and tension of drive belts

Is this worth doing vs trying to attempt this myself and buying the supplies?

THANKS!

I am not familiar with Pep Boys service....I have seen them in other towns...but they are not in my area.
Dealerships also run specials...you might try calling one near you....and see what they would charge.....Is worth having it done....as it is a messy job.
The old antifreeze will need to be taken to a recycling center....
It is very important to take note that antifreeze is poisonous to pets (cats & dogs)....and is attractive to them. So any that you may spill will need to be completely cleaned up.

On your flush I would use just water. A good Idea too take your tank off and clean it the best you can. Just add water let it run too operation temp wait a little run again too operation temp. When cool too take cap off or not get burned drain out all fluid. I not really a big fan of flush products because they have been known to cause other problems later on. Some may have used with out problems. But I have heard of problems in the past that occured after using flushes. like crud build up that the chemicals were able too eat threw that normal water would not and cause water jakets too clog causeing premature engine failuer.Water is good enough for me. New 50/50% mix is better than what you have now. So if you want just drain and add.

I, myself, have stuck to using just water....
The only thing that I would add....is....that I have read that it is best to use distilled water for the fill...
Tap water often contains minerals....and such...that can become scally buildup.
I would use tap water to flush the system....and then flush with distilled water....then fill with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze.

I read the owner's manual to determine the total capacity of the cooling system (with / without auxilary heater in the back) and then I add half the volume of the total system.....of antifreeze.
In other words....if the total system capacity is 12 quarts...once you finish flushing.....drain the system as best you can.....then add 6 quarts of pure antifreeze.....and then top off with water.
The point being....you will not be able to drain all the water out of the system.....So, by filling in this way....you will have the correct mixture in your system.

My reason for shying away from chemical cleaners....and it is only my opinion......is that you must fully flush them from the system, or they can work against the additive package in the coolant.
The other reason is....the 3.8L engine is prone to head gasket failure and front timing cover gasket leakage. I already have a very slight seapage at the front timing cover...and , hopefully still good original head gaskets....at 147K miles

From what I have read, the head gasket failure is caused by the coolant passage being close to the oil passage and the cylinder wall at the #1 and the #4 cylinder. The coolant weaps into the gasket and weakens it.....and then it fails. I have been running with some "Bars Stop Leak" in my coolant as a preventative measure....the theory being to have the stop leak repair the seapage......at the start of the problem....before it becomes a failure....
This is just a theory that I am trying.......for the not so unique situation that we have with our motors...
I just recently read that others have been doing this for years on other cars for the same reasoning....

If you are thinking about having the cooling system job done for you.....you can tell them to flush with water....and not use the chemical treatment. You can also usually bring your own favorite brand of coolant....if you have one.