Cam Pos Sensor. Need help!

I hate the Haynes manual. I am replacing the CPS synchronizer on my 99 windstar. The haynes makes it sound nice and simple. They don't bother to tell you that you have to remove (or at least loosen) the P/S pump in order for the assembly to come out. It absolutely will not clear the P/S pump to come out. The haynes is not real clear on the removal of the P/S pump on the 99 except to explain that the reservoir is seperate. How many bolts are holding this thing on? I am only able to locate 2. I have them off but the pump still will not budge. :banghead: Any suggestions will be helpful.

Are you talking 3.8 or 3.0? Apparently the 3.0 requires removing the pulley first. The 3.8 can be removed with pulley on pump.

"Remove 4 bolts, two brackets, and power steering pump" (for 3.8)

Gee, Ford also makes it sound so simple!

By the way, Ford wants you to discard the o-ring seal on the hi-press hose and replace new... using special tool of course.

i replaced the synchronizer this weekend, it was easy coming out, difficult going in. i had to remove the air intake, and fuel rack to get the piece in. i didnt mind, i wanted to clean out the ports and clean the fuel injectors.

i replaced the synchronizer this weekend, it was easy coming out, difficult going in. i had to remove the air intake, and fuel rack to get the piece in. i didnt mind, i wanted to clean out the ports and clean the fuel injectors.
I don't understand why I'm having difficulty. Mine is at such an angle that it absolutely will not clear the P/S pump without causing what would seem like significant damage. Is this just a freak thing or what? sprayed the heck out of it with wd-40 again until I figure something out.

are you talking about the sensor or the synchronizer. either or the 2 lines that are above the senor can be moved if you unscrew the bolt holiding them in, they are right above it. i did not have to remove the power steering pump. the sensor should just pop off, if not it has either melted or gummed up, if the synchronizer is to come out you have to remove the fuel rack next to the synchronizer. its the only way to remove it out and to install properly. dont forget which way it is facing and to ensure the pistons are at TDC, if you have the tool it makes it easier to know if you are at 1 or 4.

Crazymoon, not to hijack the thread, But I will be putting in a synchronizer this weekend in my 98. Mine sqeals like a pig, and the arc on top of synchronizer that passes through the sensor is mangled.

I agree it looks like moving the the power steering lines should do it. I was not planning on removing the fuel rack, what extra seals/gaskets am I going to need?

Most importiantly you mentioned if you have the tool (I do) it makes it easier to know if you are on 1 or 4. Are you saying that the synchronizer can be properly installed at a position other than TDC for cylinder 1 compression stroke? It sure would be easier to get the guage on the front bank.

SRamsey
Did you find all 4 bolts?

Egstasea
i had no choice but to remove the fuel rack, the synchronizer will not go in straight with the fuel line in the way. if you have not changed the gaskets for the air intake in a while, i would replace those. 12ounce had posted a pic of a 95 engine with the air intake off. its a very simple job. it takes about 3 hours from start to finish.(cleaning involved-clean ports while intake is off. make sure you have the special tool to remove the fuel line, a bit bigget tool than the one you use for your fuel filter.. if you have the alignment tool for the synchronizer, its a plus. ensure the cylinder is at TDC(alignment tool) before removal. gaskets should be no more than 10 dollars at ford. they say you can resuse the old ones, its up to you. i would use carb cleaner when cleaning ou the engine. B-12 is good.

Crazymoon,
I think I understand your comment about the alignment tool. If you can slide the tool on before removal of the synchronizer, the engine is at tdc cylinder 1 compression right?

The problem that I have is the arc on top of the synchronizer is sheared off. So I guess I will have to make sure I am at tdc the way Haynes describes it.
What I was wondering about is if 4 fires opposite 1, can I assume if a pressure 4 our reads no compression as the mark passes tdc means that 1 is at tdc of its compression stroke? I am trying to avoid removing the cowl to put the guage on 1. Maybe I am thinking about this too much,

Sorry, the alignment tool when placed over the synchronizer fits like the sensor. its a half moon shape inside. it can only go in one way. when you rotate the camshaft from underneath the passenger side wheel to align the marks you either end up on #4 or #1. by looking at the alignment tool , i believe the moon in on the right side of the synchronizer when its at TDC. Ford does not sell the alignment tool. i got mine off of Ebay. there are various other online sources that sell the item. i believe this forum has the sources listed on other threads. hope i havent confused you

Crazymoon,
I think I was editing when you responded. Take another look at my response please. Thanks.

Also you dont happen to have a manufacturer part number for the fuel line tool do you?

your right, i had placed the alignment tool on before i pulled the synchronizer out to ensure i was at TDC. if its sheared off the marks should still be visable on top of the synchronizer to get an idea of where the moon was to get TDC. as long as you are in the notch(camshaft gear) you should be fine. Autozone should sell the fuel removal kits. there are usually 5 pieces to it. i dont have the stock number for you. just give them a call, they should help you.

Thanks Crazymoon

I hate the Haynes manual. I am replacing the CPS synchronizer on my 99 windstar. The haynes makes it sound nice and simple. They don't bother to tell you that you have to remove (or at least loosen) the P/S pump in order for the assembly to come out. It absolutely will not clear the P/S pump to come out. The haynes is not real clear on the removal of the P/S pump on the 99 except to explain that the reservoir is seperate. How many bolts are holding this thing on? I am only able to locate 2. I have them off but the pump still will not budge. :banghead: Any suggestions will be helpful.

I am doing this exact same thing to my sister-in-laws 99 windstar. Please tell me how mwny bolts you found were holding in the pump. Any information you can give me about the CPS replacement would be appreciated.

I have a picture of the power steering pump removed....with the bracket for a '96 3.8L.....the 3 bolts for the bracket are shown in place....sticking out. There was a small bracket that was over the top bolt....requiring that the pump / bracket assembly be lifted up slightly to clear it.....you can see a little bit of a lighter color around that top bracket bolt that shows where that other flange is.

http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK

I have not replaced the synchronizer......so I cannot offer any tips....

Your 99 may be different as they did a lot of changes that year.

if you are replacing the synchronizer, you dont need to remove the power steering pump, if its like my 98, you have to remove the fuel rack in order to make it easier taking it out and placing it in. dont be afraid to do it. you can clean out the intakes while you are at it. ensure you have the alignment tool before doing the job and you set the #1 cylinder at TDC. if you look under the passenger side tire you can see the what i call cam gear with the notch in it. match them up and you ill be at tdc. good luck

I have a picture of the power steering pump removed....with the bracket for a '96 3.8L.....the 3 bolts for the bracket are shown in place....sticking out. There was a small bracket that was over the top bolt....requiring that the pump / bracket assembly be lifted up slightly to clear it.....you can see a little bit of a lighter color around that top bracket bolt that shows where that other flange is.

http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK

I have not replaced the synchronizer......so I cannot offer any tips....

Your 99 may be different as they did a lot of changes that year.

Thanks for the photo, this project has turned out to be a real pain. I have worked on my vehicles and vehicles for family & friends but I have never worked on an engine that was setup like this one. What were they thinking? I hope this is the last time I need to work on this car. We are going away for a few days, but when I get back I will let you know how it is going. Thanks again! : > )

Mine too squealed like a pig, that is until I removed the sensor itself (the black cap with two screws and a plug going into it) drizzled a little bit of gunk general purpose oil down the inside of it. It is now totally quite and has been for over 20,000 miles. There is a seal around the shaft that drives it that you cannot see that dries out. This fixes it. It should work on yours. I have seen this done on four different 98 Windstars and it stopped the squeal in "ALL" of them instantly.

Crazymoon, not to hijack the thread, But I will be putting in a synchronizer this weekend in my 98. Mine sqeals like a pig, and the arc on top of synchronizer that passes through the sensor is mangled.

I agree it looks like moving the the power steering lines should do it. I was not planning on removing the fuel rack, what extra seals/gaskets am I going to need?

Most importiantly you mentioned if you have the tool (I do) it makes it easier to know if you are on 1 or 4. Are you saying that the synchronizer can be properly installed at a position other than TDC for cylinder 1 compression stroke? It sure would be easier to get the guage on the front bank.

Camshaft sensor synchronizer replacement ... '99 3.8.

Some days ago I got the bird-sound that many have described. It was weird. Seemed to have a mind of its own: would get louder or softer without any connection to engine speed. Following, I got abupt engine stoppages ... like nothing I've experienced before ... sudden elect engine shut down, but would restart instantly. Didn't last long enough to give CEL. The bird noise went away, but the engine now had a periodic miss. I was afraid to go far from home. Based on what other posters had descibed, I ASSUMED that I had a CPS or synchronizer problem.

1. Removed wipers, cowling, and air intake duct to cabin.

1a. Drained engine coolant. Sucked out ps pump reservoir.

2. Removed: belt, ps pump (4 bolts, 1 tube connector, 1 hose), water tube from pump (2 screws), ps pump alum mtg bracket (4 bolts, one covered by tensioner), ps reservoir, tensioner (3 screws), idler pulley (1 bolt), CPS sensor(two 7/32" hex head screws).
(NOTE: No fuel line interference on my engine.)

(The tensioner and idler were also replaced with new units. I had to cut about 1/4" off the new idler bolt with rotary tool and cut-off wheel.... because of close quarters between engine and engine compartment.)

3. Replaced old synchronizer with new one. Because I do not have the plastic alignment tool, I took several dimages of the top area of the synchronizer before loosening it from engine. Without the tool, it is necessary to bring the newly installed synchronizer to the same "timing" as the old one. To accomplish this ... the "flag" on the new synchro inner shaft must relate to the sensor window, just as on the old one. Of course, the engine crankshaft cannot move during this matching process. I was surprised that the new outer body of the new synchronizer was to be in a slightly different new position ... I supposed they are not manufacturing the inner shafts to be exactly alike.

4.Refilled and reassembled everything. I did clean the face of the CPS sensor ... it appeared to have collected some rust-dust.

So far, so good. I hope the bird is dead!

The total job took about 4 hours. Now, I think I could do it in 2.

My friend's 99 3.8L 142k miles did the same thing - squealing, screeching at intermittant times - sounded belt related. We were SURE, dang sure, it was the water pump because that's where the sound was most prominent. So, we replaced water pump with an autozone lifetime warranty one. Sound came back. Pulled that one and exchanged it - "Sometimes new parts can be bad". New water pump on - sound comes back - "There could be a run of bad bearings at the water pump factory". Thankfully, then found the problem BEHIND the water pump. That lifetime warranty can be a scary thing when you get stubborn.

Anyway, I can't find the CPS drive shaft / synchronizer part anywhere on the web...is it a dealer only item? Price? Thanks, Doug

My friend's 99 3.8L 142k miles did the same thing - squealing, screeching at intermittant times - sounded belt related. We were SURE, dang sure, it was the water pump because that's where the sound was most prominent. So, we replaced water pump with an autozone lifetime warranty one. Sound came back. Pulled that one and exchanged it - "Sometimes new parts can be bad". New water pump on - sound comes back - "There could be a run of bad bearings at the water pump factory". Thankfully, then found the problem BEHIND the water pump. That lifetime warranty can be a scary thing when you get stubborn.

Anyway, I can't find the CPS drive shaft / synchronizer part anywhere on the web...is it a dealer only item? Price? Thanks, Doug

My friend lubed the synchronizer - WD40, then 5W30 oil. We cleaned some brown powder (fine rust?) out of the cam sensor housing. It still caused a random squeak and labors the engine, so he'll get a new synchronizer. He ran it today without the cam sensor hooked up - it ran smooth.

What trouble will come running it 1-2 days w/o the cam sensor hooked up?