turbo question

ok here is the thing i was searching around cuz i want 2 do the turbo on the95 i have. (like some know i have an A/T) i was reading some info from this thread ----> http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t111375.html
now the thing is wat are the real main parts 2 start getting first and why is the intercooler and other parts optional??? i want 2 start the turbo project on the side while i find a M/T for my car. and by the side i mean start getting the parts and once i have all of the parts i need start 2 install them. cuz i dont want 2 get a whole kit i want 2 be kool like some people thathave a ka-t and do a custom turbo also this will be the dumbest question but can a turbo from another car be used on the 240sx manifold?? or not??

the intercooler is optional because what you are doing is routing the air from the turbo through the intercooler to the intake. if you leave out the intercooler, all you have is hotter air, therefore you really shouldnt up the boost on non intercooled turbos. ALL turbos are universal, meaning they can go on any type of car you want, its just a turbo from a different car is made specifically for that car, and its not going to spool up on that car like your car for obvious reasons. all you are going to have to do is match up the exhaust flange with the turbos exhaust flange so they bolt together to fit each other. for instance, look at boost designs downpipe and manifold, then take a look at what turbos they offer, they offer those turbos for a reason (because they bolt directly to their products). and if you mean, do turbos bolt directly to the stock exhaust manifold of our 240's, im gonna have to yell a big, hell no.

Some manifolds require certian offset turbos. Like the Revhard T4 requires an on-center turbine housing. If you don't use one, the turbo would probably contact the MC or sit really close to it.
For the basic parts, look into getting:

A turbo. I recommend a T3/T04E 50 trim .48ar turbine. Its a really good low boost, responsive turbo with a shitload of parts designed around it. Infinite combinations of housings, wheels and such. Plus it can crank out some power. Probably looking at around 420-450whp with a 57tim wheel and a .63ar turbine housing. Don't go with a 57tim initially because it has a peakier power band. 50trim is very broad.

Manifold. Well, theres a million of them now. Revhard-Tried and true. I run one. Tat runs one. Lots of people do. Inexpensive and dependable. Both T3 and T4 flanged. This is a cast manifold so there is power to be gained by using a tubular design. www.boostdesigns.com, www.phatka-t.com, www.import-autoperformance.com, and some others all offer tubular desings. If I wanted a bottom mount, I would go with phatka-t. Ivan and those guys know what they are doing and are very, very helpful even if you don't purchase anything from them. Boostdesigns manifold comes with a downpipe so that is a really good deal there. I believe this combo requires that you use thier T3/T4 but that isn't such a bad thing. The turbo(s) they offer are pretty good. I know nothing of IAP's manifold or downpipe. Look around for some more info on these

Oil lines. Gotta have em. www.boostdesigns.com, www.phatka-t.com, www.import-autoperformance.com, www.240sxmotoring.com all offer them. I used a 3/16ID" feed line to avoid getting a restrictor. If you use -4an line, you have to use a restrictor. If not, kiss your seals good-bye. Feed line should be at least 1/2" ID if not bigger. That oil looks like whipped cream and is super hot. It really doesn't wanna hang out around the turbo anymore. Make sure it doesn't run into traffic please.

Wastegate. This controls your boost level by bypassing exhaust gas from the turbine keeping it at a certian speed. You can't really buy one until you know what manifold you are getting and know what its flanged for. Chances are its gonna be a two bolt 35mm/38mm flange. 35mm/38mm Tials, 35mm/38mmTurbonetics and I'm sure others all use this flange. It is not manditory to route this bypassed exhaust back into the downpipe and actually is beneficiary not to because boost creep is even less of a concern this way. Routing it back into the exhaust only quiets your car down and rids your engine bay and possibly interior cabin of fumes. I don't have a problem with fumes, but I guess other people do. It is loud though.

Downpipe. Custom or premade. Its your choice. I run a custom SS 3" that I welded together myself. Its a pain, but I wanted a two piece design so I could easily remove it. This one is really your call. 3" is pretty much the standard these days, but a lot of people run 2.5". Obviously 3" will decrease lag, but its your call.

Fuel and timing. You're not gonna do anything except add junk to the junkyard if you don't use some kind of fuel management. Be it a FMU, SAFC&larger injectors, additional injector, standalone, ECU tune and larger injectors, whatever. Just use one of them. I'll list them in order of effectiveness and optimal selection.
FMU-(worst besides no fuel management)
SAFC, Emangae,(emanage enables usage of an additional injector)
ECU(Best cost effective alternative to a stand-alone)
EPROM tuning(If you can do it, you're the man. Save some money and make your own damn ECU! Show JWT what its really about)
stand-alone(best if you can afford the unit plus pay someone to tune it)

The benefits of tuned ECUs and Standalones is the adjusted timing curves. Like it or not, the factory timing curve is not good for FI. Its an aggresive curve that makes power in NA apps. Its pretty hard to blow an engine by advacing timing in a NA engine, but its easier than hell to do it with a FI engine(especially ours due to weak piston ring lands). And the SAFC only complicates the timing curve. Altering MAFS voltage also alters timing position as the ECU uses MAFS signal/load/RPM to determine what timing to use. Change #1 and where are you? IDK. Use some kind of display tool such as a MDM techtom or Apexi multichecker to see where timing is under WOT. Don't run more than 7-8psi on a FMU. Adding pressure to the fuel system only makes it harder for injectors to open and wears on the fuel pump as well. What happens if an injector fails to open? Boom. All SR side feed injectors fit the KA stock fuel rail. If you use a SAFC, you can't go larger than 550cc. I advise you guys to look to the new Enthalpy tuned ECU avaliable through www.boostdesigns.com Imagine JWT with more agressive fuel and timing curves. Its a tuned JWT for cheaper. The guy that made these knows what he is doing. And has for quite a while. TIMING WILL BE A SERIOUS ISSUE PAST 8 PSI. I recommend taking 1-2* off upon initially turbocharging an engine. Even for 5psi. Saftey precaution. Don't expect to run 10psi with only an SAFC and 550s. It won't work without some kind of timing retarding. You'll detonate once you hit WOT and probably never have a chance. Boom, there goes the ring lands.

Intake piping. Pretty simple. PVC does work for a little while, but expect to replace pieces near the turbo. Heat warps them. Pretty simple other than that. Worm gear drives suck.
2.25" for up to 350hp
2.5" for 350hp-500hp
2.75"-3" for 500hp+

Bead the piping if possible to avoid blowing pipes.

BOV. These are easy. Recirculate it. A lot of people use the Greddy type s. Its easy to use, but what BOV isn't. I personally want to try the TurboXS and the Tial 50mm. Tial's are for very high HP apps due to the flow capacity. That BOV is bigger than most wastegates. and probably valves for that matter.

Gauges. You have to have a boost/vacuum gauge. I don't care what anybody says, you'll never know if theres a problem if you don't have one. Boost creep will be undetectable until its too late. You will have fun knowing why your car is running crappy if you don't know vacuum is at 15" HG. Just get one. If you do a SAFC and intent to tune it yourself, don't even touch the SAFC without a wideband A/F gauge. EGT gauges are a waste of money. They are like stupid employees. They may tell you there is a problem, they may not, but even if there is, where do you look? A wideband A/F gauge is by far the best way to tune your cars AF ratio. Along with a Techtom or multichecker, you will be set. Oil pressure is a very good gauge too. Oil starvation is the worst thing you can do to your engine. No hope once oil runs out.

Colder plugs. Gotta get the heat out of the cylinder. Thats what spark plugs do. If you don't pre-ignition could occur. Pre-ignition almost always leads to detonation. Detonation will destroy your engine very quickly. Go with BKR6E-11s or BKR7E-11s. Both NGKs. 6s are one step colder, 7s are two.

Basics+ some more advanced stuff listed. I just wanted to show you all the other routes as well besides the slim jim routes. Its nice to see the entire menu instead of just the specials. Obviously I didn't list intercoolers, but I'm sure you know about those. And engine builds. Good luck man. Sorry for such a long stupid ass post.;)

wow u really know ur info man thanx really ill see that i read everything

forgot 2 add im just looking for a easy setup that i can run with out rebuilding the block just something that can support wat i have.

so to turbo the engine, we are looking at roughly $2000? that includes the ECU and a homemade intercooler and downpipe. with a T3/T04E turbo, how much horsepower do you think this setup can get? i added up the prices of the parts you recommended.

thats not really accurate at all. you're gonna need (from start to finish - on a basic setup) intake, injectors + FMU or whatever fuel delivery system you choose, exhaust manifold, wastegate, turbo, bov, downpipe and exhaust.. add on gauges, oil lines and whatever small stuff you want and you'll be running over $2500.. to me thats a basic setup cause its fairly reliable but it really depends on what product you buy.. so it could be $1500 and last you 2 months or $3000 and last as long as you want..
use that setup and boost 6 psi (without intercooler) or 7-8 psi (with intercooler) and you could make 200-230whp i'd say.. that whole setup is more or less my goal.. i want to be fast but i also have a limited budget..

if you are patient and search for everything that you want, you could probably put togethor a decent kit for about 2000$

so what would you need for more boost? bigger turbo and injectors? how much can the stock internals of a KA handle? that basically my limit, the amount of boost i can get without changing out the pistons and other internals

so what would you need for more boost? bigger turbo and injectors? how much can the stock internals of a KA handle? that basically my limit, the amount of boost i can get without changing out the pistons and other internals

well i am currently on my second Revhard manifold. my first one cracked after almost 30K miles of use, and i forgot to slot the runners, and redrill the holes. this newer one that i got i did all that work, and it should last the life of the car hopefully. however from what i saw in the new Revhard manifold, they no longer have a bolt pattern for the T3 flanges. if your gonna run a T4, you should port out the manifold at the turbo flange area. you can shave almost a whole inch off left/right, top/bottom and it will help with spool up.

given all conditions are perfect, and the tuning is dead on with a standalone, the stock ring lands on the piston's can withstand up to 400whp before they crack. and the stock connecting rods can handle up to 550whp before they bend. this was proven by ivan from sound performance.

there is another guy named orion who has a 300whp stock bottom end KA-T and he races that car every weekend at the local road course, and at the auto X.

nissanfanatic that was the best post ever.

D-Bo, I wouldn't recommend using a FMU with 370's or larger. That would require a lot of trimming with the SAFC.

Just another addition to my first post, a Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator(RRFPR) is NOT a Fuel Management Unit (FMU). It should not be used as a tuning tool either. The RRFPR is used to equalize fuel pressure for boosted applications. In NA versions, it works as an equalizer for the vacuum present in the manifold. Much like a drinking straw, the vacuum will suck fuel into the manifold and would cause you to run too rich for idle. Same goes with boost. It would be the equivalent of pressurizing the container you are trying to fill up with the straw. Think of it like a pool float. The higher the pressure gets in the float, the harder it is to fill. If you were to add 1psi of extra pressure behind the filling unit(you) for each psi of pressure rise in the float, it would never get harder or easier to fill. Get it?

A FMU can be used with stock injectors on applications up to 7psi(recommended max) or 10psi(provided by boostdesigns). He used a 12:1 FMU. I would seriously not recommend that you try that.

Tat, you didn't slot the runners? I didn't research it enough and put my kit on without doing it either. I hope by the time 10K rolls around, I will have my project block done and a Boostdesigns manifold.

Thanks orestes.

no offense to you tipota, but i think you should learn a bit more about turbos before you do this project. I cant believe you would ask if the way to get more boost was add a bigger turbo :disappoin

You can't get 400whp out of a SAFC and bigger injectors either. I just explained that earlier.

Do these posts remind anybody else of that one guy you know who always says "Huh?" or "What?" and never pays attention to anything for more than 5 seconds? But he goes in his own little world when the TV is on. He also can't pay attention to more than one thing at a time. I guess its ADD, but jesus its annoying.

why should we waste our time on someone who wont listen? Do some research so you dont have to come on here looking for a new engine...

i want to be fast but i also have a limited budget..

Exactly wat u say my friend money is the only thing holding this back :disappoin who wants 2 help me lol

driftking has got some cash.. i'm still waiting for my apexi n1 dual...........

I think money is the main thing holding anyone back...well anyone who doesn't have any. lol

Knowing how to do something, but not being able to afford it is the worst thing in the world.

nissanfanatic, we think alike. i know exactly what i want to do and have done enough research that i could fair well doing some installs myself (if thats what you meant).. but i have no cash..