fan not working

I have a 94 saturn and the fan is not moving at all... I tried replacing the fuse to the thing, nothing changed. What do I check next? Any help would be appreciated...

can it be moved by hand? if no, the motor seized and needs replaced

if yes, will the fan come on with the A/C or in diagnosis mode? if yes, replace the ECT. if no, check the relay and wiring.

Same thing happened to mine. The fan would come on with the AC. I replaced the ECT and didn't notice any change other than my fuel economy going from 30ish to 37-38 mpg. Didn't help the fan issue. Then one day in August, here in Houston, the AC quit and the car overheated. Figured out the fan had quit cold turkey. The AC would only work above 35 or so because the refrigerent wasn't being cooled in the condenser at low speeds. I had to roll down the windows and run the heat on high to get anywhere in town. The duct temperature at the base of the windshield was high enough to slightly warp the dash. The temperature under my collar was even higher.

I checked fuses and swapped relays and then replaced the fan motor. I got mine at Autozone and it didn't cost much at all. The fan still doesn't come on by itself until 3/4 scale on the temp guage. Some will say that's how it's supposed to work but I feel differently about temp fluctuations with iron block / alum. head applications such as ours.

As I understand it, the computer tells the fan to come on when the temperature guage gets almost to the "H", or when you turn on the A/C. I thought I had a problem too until I understood this. Wolfman has posted a procedure to bypass the computer and install a switch whereby you can decide for yourself when the fan comes on.

On the right side of the engine near the thermostat housing you will se two sensors. The one with one wire goes to the temperature gauge in the dash and the one with two wires goes to the PCM to turn on the cooling fan. You can unplug the two wire harness and short out the two pins with a staple and the fan should come on (this will simulate a hot condition). This will test the fan and the relay. If the fan does not come on when the temp gauge is close to the red mark then the problem is the sensor.

being that you have allready checked the fuse, start obvious and wirk back. 1) disconect the fan wireand connect it to a 12 volt power sorce ( jumber cables or your own battery using sections of wire. Jumper cables with nails clamped on works best. insert one nail onto each of the two poles, do not worry which one if you mess up the fan will just rotate backwards. if the fan works track down the tempature control switch and check it for continuity, also check for power of around 12 volts back to where it is found, it is an easy fix on the scale.

Some will say that's how it's supposed to work but I feel differently about temp fluctuations with iron block / alum. head applications such as ours.

I stand corrected. Our blocks are aluminum.