P0340 camshaft positioning sensor

on my 1998 Windstar after all the transmission problems that i fixed 2 weeks ago by the neutral safety switch,this weekend i changed transmission fluid again installed new filter and drain kit.Th fluid having been changed just months ago before we mived up to mass was still like it was just poured from the container...


anyway that being said check enging light came back on Friday the day before i did all the work...Auto zone gave me that code and told me it was that sensor,My question is that is it usually just the sensor or the whole assembly that goes into the engine which i am not wanting to do f it is that because both haynes and the 5 inch think manual i have says you need special tools..alignment tools that is...
at the same time I started getting the worst squeal I have heard in a long time weirdest sounding squeal also at any time it wants..

Never had a problem with the van until we moved up to new england and i guess it is a big coincidence..
thanks for all the help.
David M

I have the same problem with my 99, 3.8L, 87,000miles. Its sitting in the garage while I try to figure out if I can do it myself. Bad squealing at higher RPNs and loss of power during the squealing. I stalled once during one of the episodes and gave me the same code 340. I replaced the sensor, but did not correct the problem.

If anybody has any information please don't hesitate to chime in.

Thanks,

I have never removed the camshaft sensor from my '99. Other posters have touched on this item.

The sensor (6B288) controls the timing of the fuel injectors, and its timing is critical. But it's not the sensor itself that is "timed"... its what the sensor is mounted on, the "synchronizer", that is "timed". After lifting a battery cable, the sensor can be removed (two 7/32" hex bolts on mine) with no timing issues. (Check for harness wiring problems...frequently a problem.)

The synchronizer is held in place by one bolt. If you mark its location properly/precisely... you should be able to remove and reinstalled it with no problems... just make sure the engine crankshaft doesn't move a fraction until the synchronizer is reinstalled!

As you lift the sychronizer, the oil pump drive shaft may come out of the front cover also... no big deal. Before reinstalling be sure to lubricate all parts of the synchronizer with clean motor oil. This has quieten noises for some posters.

If you feel better about having a synchronizer tool on hand before starting, OTC makes one for less than twenty bucks. Check their website to find local jobber. Part #6470 for the 3.8. Part #6473 for the 3.0. Then refer to Haynes for guidance on how to use tool.

Good luck!

Thanks for your help.
What your saying is, the squealling is caused by a faulty synchronizer. I just bought an automotive stethiscope (sp) to listen to the bearings on the belt driven devices thinking that one of them is going bad and locking up. I may listen to the bearings anyway for S""""&Giggles. So, will the synchronizer be replaced completelly or just a piece of it. I'm worried that If I remove it after marking its location, I will have to replace it with a new one that isn't marked and will screw up the alignment.

Thanks for your help 12Ounce

I don't remember any posting about replacing the synchronizer... only cleaning, lubricating, and replacement.

But even if you had to replace it, you should be able to transfer your reference marking from the old one to the new one.

DavidM, have you tried to fix yours yet?

DavidM, have you tried to fix yours yet?


I have not fixed it yet but it is being fixed.
My Brother In Law works at a Tech school he teaches one of the automotive classes. and anything I can not tackle or just not sure about I will bug him to check it out.best thing is I pay for just parts...

He took it to the school Friday to check it out.
He verified that the actual shaft under the sensor was broken.
I will have it back Monday and I believe he is changing the thermostat also.Said he bought parts at Ford and total is about $160.00....

I will have it Monday so after I drive it or get further info from him I will let you guys know.
I was leary about doing this because the fact yo need to get it all aligned perfectly..

thanks everyone.

Hi All,
I have just replaced the syncronizer myself. My problem was stalling when
squeaking, only once, but the squeaking has been on and off for about a
month. Running the engine without the belt on, narrowed it down to engine,
then with screwdriver to ear one can definitely hear the noise in the
syncronizer. I replaced the sensor also because of the stalling and why
not, your right there anyways. If you have ever replaced a distributor
before, you do not need the special tool. Just mark the syncronizer to
the block, and line up the inside piece that spins, square with the...
I'll call it, the window. I had to move the metal upper waterpump bypass hose
and unbolt the Powersteering pump (not hard). Like someone mentioned
earlier, the oil pump rod comes up with the syncronizer so you need a straight shot when pulling out. For you old timers, as I was pulling this out, I
almost had a heart attack when I saw the pump rod coming up with the syncronizer, but it is held in place with a c-clip...whew!
That's it...started right up...whoho no noise...next project, lower intake bolts. I got parts from Ford, sensor about 32 bucks, syncro-137 bucks.
2000 Windstar 3.8
110,000 mi.

Keynova

For others looking to make this repair, try Northern Automotive or
coolparts.com. Synchronizer, sensor, and I believe alignment tool
for under $50.00. I found this out after paying $168.00 for sychronizer
and sensor from Ford dealer and $30.00 for alignment tool from NAPA.

This is an old thread, but I feel I should respond. I had code P0340. Searched around here and other places and got good information. I bought a new sensor from autoplace and set out to replace it. Getting to it and removing it was easy enough. Stubby screwdriver with proper socket was it. Went to put the new one on and it wouldn't fit. Messed around and scratched head for a bit then I realized that the top part of the syncronizer was bent because of the broken sensor part. Oh NO!!!! Gotta get new syncronizer I thought. So, since I was up against it time wise because I had to pass emmissions test, I got the bright? idea to get a mallet and a long screwdriver and beat the top part of the syncronizer back into as close a round as I could. At least until the new sensor fit properly. Then I started the engine and it scraped the new sensor a little but did not break it. I thought I was a genious. Check engine light came back on, same code.

To make a long story even longer, the 'repair' that I did managed to allow me to 'slip' in between code clearings and pass an emmision test before CEL came back on (it used to come on immediately before I changed sensor). CEL came back on right after leaving emmision station and I was fine with that. After all, the stuttering at idle and occasional stall during backing and braking had all been solved. Next day, I was driving and all of a sudden the CEL went off and hasn't been on since. Of course, I wouldn't recommend pounding on an important metal part such as the syncronizer for any reason and I may pay for it down the road, but that's my experience.