Help cant accelerate!!

Refer to this thread please for the details on my situation.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=2770193#post2770193

i had the same thing happen to my 95 blazer when i first bought it, and sometimes wheni came to a stop, it would either stumble bad and almost staul and other times it would staul. Try cleaning your EGR valve. worked for me.

At 180k I would check the following
Pull the upper plenum, check for washing. (Bad CPI or nut kit)
Clogged Cat
Have you done a tune up lately?
When was the last time you changed your fuel filter

Check for a clogged EGR (pull, soak in carb cleaner, scrub with a wire brush)

Any smoke blowing out the back?

replace the distributor cap& rotor and maybe the spark plugs too. these are cheap parts that wear out with time. if you still have problems check the sensors, fuel pressure, exhaust backpressure(cat)

At 180k I would check the following
Pull the upper plenum, check for washing. (Bad CPI or nut kit)
Clogged Cat
Have you done a tune up lately?
When was the last time you changed your fuel filter

Check for a clogged EGR (pull, soak in carb cleaner, scrub with a wire brush)

Any smoke blowing out the back?

No tune up, but there's heavy white smoke and my car smells rich with gas all the time.

Sounds like it's time for a CPI/Nut kit replacement

No tune up, but there's heavy white smoke and my car smells rich with gas all the time.

Also, do some maintanence and don't keep driving it like this.

No tune up, but there's heavy white smoke and my car smells rich with gas all the time.

You need to replace your head gasket. Check your oil, is the dip stick covered with milky white oil, rather than black? If it is, your head gasket if gone. Make sure to use a torque wrench when replacing, or you will need to replace it again.

Ummm...

We don't know enough to state it is a head gasket yet.

This is a duplicate post of one in the S10 forum. he has a code 21. Indicating a problem with the TPS.

Here is his other post.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=361094

Get's confusing when someone starts two threads and only posts half the info in each one...doesn't it?
Makes it hard to help.

Ummm...

We don't know enough to state it is a head gasket yet.


I agree with what we know so far. But if the dip stick is covered in milky white oil... it is most likely the head gasket. If not I'm not sure what it might be. Pretty easy test though.

Other thread has been closed.

Update:
I replaced my TPS!!

Here's what I experienced driving around for 2 hours today.
I can accelerate like crazy. I feel like I'm in a race car now. Seriously damn thing is freaking fast now.

Still having a slight problem accelerating from a stop though. It doesn't pop like crazy anymore when I hit the gas, it pops once, while I'm accelerating. About 6 times accelerating from a stop today I couldn't accelerate fast, the only way I was able to accelerate these times was by barely hitting the gas pedal...if I hit it any harder it didn't do anything. It would take forever for me to reach 55 mph but I got there without popping and not pulling over and restarting the car. 3 out of the 6 times I pulled over to restart my car for the hell of it and I was able to accelerate like a damn race car again. When listening while doing this it sounded like the gas just stops flowing, or the transmission doesn't want to shift gears (I may be wrong on the tranny part). Also I stalled out once at a stop today. Few times on the interstate today i was going about 65...braked down to about 50 and was unable to reaccelerate back to 65....i hit the gas pedal it does nothing...if i barely touch it i would slowly increase to about 61 and thats the highest i got. Pulled over restart the truck and I was fine and able to get to 95 :-D

The truck doesn't idle up and down and the battery meter doesn't go up and down when I start the truck now it just takes about 3 trys to get the truck to start from hot or cold.

No white smoke (sorry wasn't counting in the factor it was really cold this week :-p) Just more then normal amounts of exhaust coming out. The gas smell isn't that heavy anymore. No white stuff on dip stick or oil.. oil is fine I just replaced 2 days ago.

I'll update this If i remember any other details.

Check the CPI injector and nut kit.

Remove the vortec plate on top of the motor and the round valve underneath it.

Take a flashlight and peer down into the hole and look for golden washed spots and pools of fuel.

Is the check engine light off now?

Is the check engine light off now?

Check Engine Light has been off since I reset the codes.

Check the CPI injector and nut kit.

Remove the vortec plate on top of the motor and the round valve underneath it.

Take a flashlight and peer down into the hole and look for golden washed spots and pools of fuel.

Did you do this yet? ^^^^

Sorry just got off work...yeah I tried to get the vortec top off this morning and broke to screwdrivers and the T-30 piece trying to do it lol...but yeah ima goto homedepot tommorow and get a new torx screwdriver and open it up..

Ok so I finally looked inside, there were pools of fuel and the whole inside was coated with black grud...im not exactly sure what you mean't by golden washed spots, but yeah thats what i saw inside.

What side had the pools of fuel, the driver's or passenger side?

The pools of fuel are not supposed to be there.

The black crud is normal, the golden washed spots are from the gas eventually washing the brack crud away.

You need a new CPI injector and nut kit bro.

Where do you suggest I purchase the parts and do you know any places online that would have a more detailed guide on this replacement procedure compared to the haynes manual.

You can check out my experience here:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showt...cpi+replacement

Detialed instruction and photos can be found in this thread here You will have to register, but it is well worth it:

http://www.s-seriesforum.com/forum/...&threadid=34668

You can check out my experience here:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showt...cpi+replacement

Detialed instruction and photos can be found in this thread here You will have to register, but it is well worth it:

http://www.s-seriesforum.com/forum/...&threadid=34668

Where did you order your parts?

Injector I got off of ebay.

Nut kit and plnum gasket I got from the local chev dealer.

I ended up ordering these parts from gmpartsdirect.com
17113673 - MULTIPORT FUEL INJECTOR - $247.57
17112705 - NUT KIT - $40.20
10105939 - GASKET - $8.12

Question:
Lets say I install these new parts and it doesn't fix my problem what would be the next thing to check out?
I have about $400 left to spend on parts.

Good, this should be the problem.

Let's focus on it for now.

Update:

Finally changed out my CPI / Nut Kit....truck runs great now...no more acceleration problems. Thanks guys for the help. Greatly appreciated!

That's great. Thanks for coming back and posting the solution. There are too many threads in this forum with all problems and no solutions.

Update:

Finally changed out my CPI / Nut Kit....truck runs great now...no more acceleration problems. Thanks guys for the help. Greatly appreciated!

Did you use a fresh upper plenum gasket?

Dis you clean out the EGR passage?

Yes got a new gasket..egr passage was totally clear...there wasn't any build up at all.

You didn't have this in the lower intake?

http://www.tweaknews.net/img/plugged.JPG

no sir

You didn't have this in the lower intake?

http://www.tweaknews.net/img/plugged.JPG

Oops, I meant in the UPPER intake that you took off.

neither

wow, you are lucky, you caught the leak early.

I didn't and you can see what results.

*sigh* I have bad news :'(
Decided I wanted some taco bell this morning ....so i hopped in the truck and drove about 10 mins til i got to taco bell...ordered my food and waited for a good 4 mins and when i went to hit the gas pop pop pop again...i cant accelerate...had to turn the car off and back on in order to accelerate....it did this the whole way back home...had to restart about 4 times...

soooo any ideas???

after reading around on the forums and surfing the net ive come to a conclusion my problem may be the ignition timing...would u guys agree and if so where can i purchase a timing light?

Any auto parts store should have an induction type timing light. They are universal "fit" so there is really no right or wrong one to buy. At worse, check out the tools section at Sears - I know that they have 'em for certain.

Find and clean the engine timing marks (with the engine off!!) - sometimes painting the mark white will make it much more visible; then clip the leads for the light to your battery posts, then place the inductive pick-up over plug wire 1. (This plug wire is located on the driver's side, front of the engine block) Start engine and let it warm up. Disconnect the ECM control for your distributor by lifting the passenger side carpet under the glove box. It will be a tan wire with a connector in the middle. Pull the connector apart. Aim the light at the timing marks to get your timing. To adjust, kill the engine. Reconnect the ECM connector (temporarily), and hire a 6" tall monkey to knock the adjusting bolt on your distributor loose. (It's in a really, really tight place to reach!) You want it just loose enough to allow only slight movement of the entire distributor in either direction. Restart the engine, disconnect the ECM control again, and lightly, ever so slightly, move the distributor in either direction to make the light "freeze" the timing mark at 0 degrees. Once done, turn off engine, reconnect ECM line, torque the distributor hold down bolt tight - remove negative battery lead from the battery and pull both ECM fuses for about 10 minutes. Reconnect power, pop your ECM fuses back in... Voila! I did this earlier today when my mechanic had his back turned. Idle quality has improved vastly. The slight shake and bump it had disappeared after a tune-up that replaced cap and rotor bug about 4 months back. Good luck!

do you recommend i just goto pep boys and get a tune up and have them adjust my ignition timing or should i invest in a timing light and do it myself?

do you recommend i just goto pep boys and get a tune up and have them adjust my ignition timing or should i invest in a timing light and do it myself?

Do you have anyone you know that could help you with it.

Um... actually no I'd be doing this all on my own.

Um... actually no I'd be doing this all on my own.

If you have never done it before, I suggest you don't time your vehicle by yourself unles you hve some one show you how to do it.

Agreed. Most of us more technically savvy types can be had by your side for half of a pepperoni pizza and good beer. Save the beer for after the job though... ;>

Grab up a mechanically minded friend to watch over your shoulder - and if you are interested in learning more about your truck, pick up either or both the manuals offered by Chilton and Haynes.

so where can i find one of these technically savvy type people....id be willing to give them 2 large pepperoni pizzas and a case of budweiser :-p

Surely you have friends - maybe one or two of them know how to turn a wrench? Ask around... I give genuine, free help, work and advice to my pals. They just happen to pay me in lunches and favors later on. :)

:::::Update:::::

First of all let me tell you what I changed.
1.) Cpi / Nut kit
2.) Distributor Cap / Rotor
3.) Spark Plug / Plug Wires ... AC Delco Plats
4.) Air Filter / Oil Filter / Oil
5.) PCV Valve

Car doesn't have hesitation problems from a stop anymore, but it won't shift gears with the pedal floored. What I mean is it will shift but it's delay for about 5-10 secs. I'll be crusing at 30mph and it sounds like the car is being overrun then it finally kicks in and shifts gears then I'm stuck around 50mph then I wait another 5 secs it'll shift gears again.

Have you checked your tranny fluid?

Tranny Fluid is full...yes that was the first thing that came to thought....it leaks very little though from what looks like the tranny fluid pan...which i will fix soon with a new gasket....any other ideas?

Have you ever serviced your tranny?

Flush, fill and a new filter?

No, but I'm gonna take it to cottmans tommorow for the free 21 point check on the tranny....you think there's something wrong with tranny??? I didn't have this problem before until I changed all the stuff listed:
1.) Cpi / Nut kit
2.) Distributor Cap / Rotor
3.) Spark Plug / Plug Wires ... AC Delco Plats
4.) Air Filter / Oil Filter / Oil
5.) PCV Valve
Is it possible that one of these new components changed the way something else was acting causing this problem or anything that I could've touched that causes this??

Oh yeah also I have a very slight vibration now after changing these parts also. I only notice it when at a stop.

Also, how about the fuel filter?

Haha um yeah out of eveything I changed I have not changed that yet ...
Think thats the prob??...im guessing you're saying it may be starving the car from fuel which will cause it not to shift fast enough because its clogged up??

Haha um yeah out of eveything I changed I have not changed that yet ...
Think thats the prob??...im guessing you're saying it may be starving the car from fuel which will cause it not to shift fast enough because its clogged up??

The transmission is computer controlled and is also controlled in part by the computer sensor readings.

So if I change my fuel filter it may fix my problem??

No guarantees, but you should always fix and change the known concerns to get them out of the way.

*sigh* for the last 3 days ive been trying to get my fuel filter off....it wont freaking budge....what am i doing wrong...i had 2 people using 4 cresent wrenches trying to get the damn thing off....help ...advice please...!!

*sigh* for the last 3 days ive been trying to get my fuel filter off....it wont freaking budge....what am i doing wrong...i had 2 people using 4 cresent wrenches trying to get the damn thing off....help ...advice please...!!

DO NOT USE CRECENT WRENCHES!!!!!!!!!!! You'll end up stripping it! First, use pb blaster or liquid torch on it, let it sit a couple of hours... Then use LINE WRENCHES... Do not use the cheap ones, use a craftsman or snap-on... This will prevent you from stripping it out...

Update:
The car stopped starting after i posted the tranny problem about the fluid leaking...
Ok so I changed the fuel filter and the battery and the car still won't start. Engine rotates but won't start....I lost my job...just paid off bills for 2 months and I have about $200 left to put towards my truck....i hate riding buses any other ideas guys...please help :'(