Help cant accelerate!!
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1 [2]
sykopenguin
04-07-2005, 10:40 AM
well any ideas?
wolfox
04-07-2005, 10:55 AM
Make sure your battery is charged fully. Whenever I swap fuel filters, the truck's a little sluggish to start. I let the pump "prime up" until the relay in the glove box stops it. I then give her a crank for 3 seconds. If she ain't gonna catch after 3 seconds, she ain't ever going to. But it usually takes 3 cycles of turning the key to run, waiting until the pump stops and about 3-4 seconds of cranking until she catches. Usually on the 4th she figures out she was meant to run and come to a sputtering start, then idles really smooth. It takes a little while for the trapped air in the filter and fuel rails to work their way out fully and give you a full fuel stream.
sykopenguin
04-07-2005, 11:45 AM
Ok let me explain myself better...The car stopped starting so I decided to change the fuel filter...that didn't solve the problem. I tried starting many many times after changing the fuel filter cause I knew about the air pockets and how it has to rebuild fuel pressure...got any other ideas why the car won't start? Thanks
wolfox
04-07-2005, 04:32 PM
This is now where I would say to check your basics.
Fuel:
Is there fuel under pressure in the injection assembly? Do you smell fuel when she cranks but does not start?
Is there ENOUGH fuel in the tank to start the engine? Mine will not start if parked facing down-hill with less than a 1/4 tank of gas when level. Starvation for fuel can happen in this state, especially since you said your gas gage is shot.
Have you pulled off your IMTV to peer inside your CPI Vortec engine yet? A strong smell of fuel when one pops the valve off (Under the Vortec plastic plenum cover on top of your engine - 2 torx screws) is a sign that something is definitely wrong. Depending on which side there is fuel pooling and/or washing the cruddy looking intake down to a gold colored, clean metal - will give you a clue as to what's busted. When you do the inspection, and there is something found to be wrong, replace the injector, nut-kit and regulator as an assembly. Use a NEW plenum upper intake gasket when you put it together. DO NOT re-use the old one. And be mindful that the green striped side faces up, towards you before you put the upper plenum back down into place on the gasket surface.
Spark:
Got one? Pull a plug wire and have an assistant crank the engine. Make sure that you have the spark plug boot near a metal part of the engine block that is not sensitive to high voltage, nor covered in gas & oil. You can start a fire. If there is a spark, pull the plug. Is there a fine coat of gasoline on it? Is it dry? Worse yet, is it covered to be totally indistinguishable from a burnt cigar end? Carbon/oil fouling has to be ruled out along with other nasty possibilities. A pulled plug should be just a little "tanned", not glazed, covered over with crud, nor 100% clean either. If it's totally clean, it's either new, or you have a head gasket leak that's allowing it to be "washed" by minute amounts of Anti-freeze.
Air:
Does the throttle body butterfly move when you hit the gas pedal? Is the throttle plate clean and closing properly? Is it opening up smoothly to WOT? Is it caked with crud and grime around its edges or in the air intake itself? What's the state of your air filter? Looking through it in the sunlight is not a good method anymore. Filter technology has changed quite a bit as of late - dispose of any filter that you had, or has seen get "blown out" with compressed air. Watched some clown mechanic do this to my buddy's Blazer and caught him out on it. *Always* replace with new.
Exhaust:
Are your cats plugged up? Did she smell like she was burning sulphur or "rotten eggs" before you had trouble? Were there any uncharacteristic or rough, rattling sounds at idle/mid throttle/etc.? Was it restricted in any manner, damaged or aftermarket/replaced recently?
Make certain that you have all three of the above - take one away and you are not going to have a running engine. Is air delivery clear and unobstructed? Is there fuel making it to the fuel rails and charging the system properly before it starts? Is fuel being delivered to the cylinders properly? Do you have a spark that is trying to light it all up? If all three are yes, for certain - then there is a totally different order of problems you are experiencing. But always, always check your basics and that will give you a good idea where to go next. Good luck, check your work already done and check for vital signs of life under your hood.
Fuel:
Is there fuel under pressure in the injection assembly? Do you smell fuel when she cranks but does not start?
Is there ENOUGH fuel in the tank to start the engine? Mine will not start if parked facing down-hill with less than a 1/4 tank of gas when level. Starvation for fuel can happen in this state, especially since you said your gas gage is shot.
Have you pulled off your IMTV to peer inside your CPI Vortec engine yet? A strong smell of fuel when one pops the valve off (Under the Vortec plastic plenum cover on top of your engine - 2 torx screws) is a sign that something is definitely wrong. Depending on which side there is fuel pooling and/or washing the cruddy looking intake down to a gold colored, clean metal - will give you a clue as to what's busted. When you do the inspection, and there is something found to be wrong, replace the injector, nut-kit and regulator as an assembly. Use a NEW plenum upper intake gasket when you put it together. DO NOT re-use the old one. And be mindful that the green striped side faces up, towards you before you put the upper plenum back down into place on the gasket surface.
Spark:
Got one? Pull a plug wire and have an assistant crank the engine. Make sure that you have the spark plug boot near a metal part of the engine block that is not sensitive to high voltage, nor covered in gas & oil. You can start a fire. If there is a spark, pull the plug. Is there a fine coat of gasoline on it? Is it dry? Worse yet, is it covered to be totally indistinguishable from a burnt cigar end? Carbon/oil fouling has to be ruled out along with other nasty possibilities. A pulled plug should be just a little "tanned", not glazed, covered over with crud, nor 100% clean either. If it's totally clean, it's either new, or you have a head gasket leak that's allowing it to be "washed" by minute amounts of Anti-freeze.
Air:
Does the throttle body butterfly move when you hit the gas pedal? Is the throttle plate clean and closing properly? Is it opening up smoothly to WOT? Is it caked with crud and grime around its edges or in the air intake itself? What's the state of your air filter? Looking through it in the sunlight is not a good method anymore. Filter technology has changed quite a bit as of late - dispose of any filter that you had, or has seen get "blown out" with compressed air. Watched some clown mechanic do this to my buddy's Blazer and caught him out on it. *Always* replace with new.
Exhaust:
Are your cats plugged up? Did she smell like she was burning sulphur or "rotten eggs" before you had trouble? Were there any uncharacteristic or rough, rattling sounds at idle/mid throttle/etc.? Was it restricted in any manner, damaged or aftermarket/replaced recently?
Make certain that you have all three of the above - take one away and you are not going to have a running engine. Is air delivery clear and unobstructed? Is there fuel making it to the fuel rails and charging the system properly before it starts? Is fuel being delivered to the cylinders properly? Do you have a spark that is trying to light it all up? If all three are yes, for certain - then there is a totally different order of problems you are experiencing. But always, always check your basics and that will give you a good idea where to go next. Good luck, check your work already done and check for vital signs of life under your hood.
Absolut Talent
04-07-2005, 08:30 PM
You can check out my experience here:
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showt...cpi+replacement
Detialed instruction and photos can be found in this thread here You will have to register, but it is well worth it:
http://www.s-seriesforum.com/forum/...&threadid=34668
is it just me or do those links not work correctly?
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showt...cpi+replacement
Detialed instruction and photos can be found in this thread here You will have to register, but it is well worth it:
http://www.s-seriesforum.com/forum/...&threadid=34668
is it just me or do those links not work correctly?
BlazerLT
04-07-2005, 09:01 PM
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=113559
http://www.s-seriesforum.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34668
Second one you will have to register, but it is worth it.
http://www.s-seriesforum.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34668
Second one you will have to register, but it is worth it.
sykopenguin
04-07-2005, 09:29 PM
BlazerLT you already told me to change my CPI/ Nut kit / gasket earlier in this thread....i've already done it like a month ago.
BlazerLT
04-08-2005, 12:26 AM
BlazerLT you already told me to change my CPI/ Nut kit / gasket earlier in this thread....i've already done it like a month ago.
Please read the post above my last post.
Please read the post above my last post.
sykopenguin
04-08-2005, 01:15 AM
which post...the one linking to the cpi replacement procedure??
BlazerLT
04-08-2005, 01:23 AM
is it just me or do those links not work correctly?
This one where someone said the links did not work correctly so I fixed them.
This one where someone said the links did not work correctly so I fixed them.
sykopenguin
04-08-2005, 02:19 AM
why am i going to these links though??? i already replaced my cpi / nut kit / gasket....the truck ran for 2 weeks after that still having problems with hesitation during acceleration from a stop still so i did the basic tuneup cap, rotor, plugs (ac delco plats), plug wires, oil, oil filter, pcv valve, air filter and the truck ran for 1 day after all that and i cant get it to start again. Also got a new battery..and just changed the fuel filter
BlazerLT
04-08-2005, 02:36 AM
why am i going to these links though??? i already replaced my cpi / nut kit / gasket....the truck ran for 2 weeks after that still having problems with hesitation during acceleration from a stop still so i did the basic tuneup cap, rotor, plugs (ac delco plats), plug wires, oil, oil filter, pcv valve, air filter and the truck ran for 1 day after all that and i cant get it to start again. Also got a new battery..and just changed the fuel filter
For christ sakes man, he said the links weren't working for him so I fixed them for him.
This has nothing to do with you, it was his request for the link fix.
For christ sakes man, he said the links weren't working for him so I fixed them for him.
This has nothing to do with you, it was his request for the link fix.
sykopenguin
04-08-2005, 02:42 AM
lol well why didnt u say so geesh ...i was all confused :-p
BlazerLT
04-08-2005, 02:48 AM
I already did in post 70.
Absolut Talent
04-08-2005, 07:50 PM
For christ sakes man, he said the links weren't working for him so I fixed them for him.
This has nothing to do with you, it was his request for the link fix.
and I thank you extensivly for doing so :D
This has nothing to do with you, it was his request for the link fix.
and I thank you extensivly for doing so :D
BlazerLT
04-08-2005, 09:10 PM
and I thank you extensivly for doing so :D
np bro!
np bro!
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