Chevy Colorado Issues

I bought my Chevy Colorado on June 14,2004.
July 15 I had to take the truck in for service due to the check engine light came on, the radio kept resetting itself back to 12:00 and because for some reason the box shifted off center. The dealership had the truck for a few days and fixed the radio and the box but said they needed to order Exhaust Valve springs for the check engine light. Needless to say they had no idea when they could get the parts so they told me to drive the truck till they could get the parts. On August 20th they called me to tell me they finally recived the parts so I dropped the truck off and they had it till August 31st before they fixed it. Everything was all fine till Dec. 21st when the light came back on again. I then took the truck back again and they said they needed to replace the valve springs again so I left the truck and also asked them to check out the heater blower because it made some noise. I got the truck back on Jan 7 2005 and the blower motor wasn't fixed so I would have to take it back again for that. On Jan 13th I took the truck back for the heater motor to be replaced. Now that all of that is fixed it just seems like the truck has lost power... I called GM customer service and they tried giving me a 2 yr 24000 mile extended warranty but I don't think that is good enough for all the trouble I have had for buying a new truck. A few days went by and they called me back and after I mentioned something about the lemon law they told me there was nothing they could do for me and the warranty wasn't even a choice now..... :banghead: Maybe I was wrong for mentioning the lemon law but I just don't think it's fair that you spend that kind of money on a truck with that many problems and that is all they can offer. Give me a break, Like they can't afford to offer something a little better....

www.lemonlawamerica.com -
The law presumes that a reasonable number of attempts have been made if the dealer has made four repair attempts for the same problem or the vehicle has been out of service for 30 days or more within the first 18,000 miles or two years.

Go there and look furter into it. I'd say you have a strong case.

Guess what? the service engine came back on again sometime mid February, so I took the truck back again Feb 21 for repair. They looked the truck over again and GM recommended them changing the exhaust valve springs again. With a little complaining they decided not to do that and have the district service manager come out and look over all the paper work on the truck. Needless to say he didn't want to replace the truck either so they ordered a new top end for it, which took a month to get in. Now I have the truck back but have contacted a lawyer about all of it. The lawyer is requesting all my money back for the truck due to it being out of service for more than 30 days within 18000 miles or 2 years whatever comes first. Now I just have to sit back and wait... I'll keep you all up to date.

Well when my lawyer first contacted GM they were quick to offer a couple thousand dollars and to extend my warranty. The lawyer and I decided that just wasn't enough. When you pay that kind of money for a truck they should back it 100% no question. It has been a couple of months and of course GM seems to be dragging there feet on this which really sucks because the truck still isn't running right, even though the check engine light didn't come back on it has stalled twice and just doesn't seem to have the power it used to. I was talking to the mechanic at the dealership where I bought it and he was telling me that they can't work on my truck until the case is solved whith GM. (I guess GM sent them a letter stating that I filed a claim against them) Hopefully this won't take to much time to settle on but I guess with GM being down like they are maybe they can't afford to admit they have a problem with the first colorados they came out with.....

Man let me tell you ' dstodd02 ' i had the same problem with my Colorado. I baught a 05 Colorado Xtreme and man it was straight trouble, the day i got the truck my power windows wint out next thing i know couple weeks later my engine light comes on i know exactly what you are talking about. I took it in man the techs dont kno wtf is up they said everything was good when that was not true cuz i got the truck back and it just started messing up worse. After my engine light came on and my truck clock was resetting to 12:00 there solution was just to replace my whole instrument panel cluster i was like wtf man trucks brand new barley 3weeks old and i had taken it in like 6times already. Finnaly the panel came in i was like ok cool man then my Mileage stoped counting i was like ok tahts it i took the truck back and asked the sales manager for a new one. Problem was that all the 05' colorados xtreme were sold out in all of So Cal so they were like we can give you a full refund of your money (24g's paid in full ) or look at a new car. So i was like man i want a Silverado so i went out in the lot picked up a silverado and have been oo so happy ever since.

Well after a long 7 months of fighting with GM they finally bought the Colorado back. I am a proud new owner of a 2006 H3 Hummer.. What a difference.

Well after a long 7 months of fighting with GM they finally bought the Colorado back. I am a proud new owner of a 2006 H3 Hummer.. What a difference.

You do realize that the H3 is basically a Colorado, right (in that it's entirely based on the same frame and with the same engine)?? I'm not trying to be a smart*ss, just didn't know if you knew it or not. Google H3, Colorado if you want more info....

I understand it is "basically" the same.. I loved the colorado I had I just hated the problems. I drove a few 05 Colorado's and a few H3 and the motor was night and day. My Colorado had major motor issues which is the reason i got rid of it...

He got a Colorado at a Hummer price :lol: :lol: :lol:

5 cylinder with tons of blind spots

I Have a 2005 colorado that has major brakes problems.Does anyone else?

does anyone know how to remove the rotors on an 04 colorado they have this weird line connected to the disk i got new rotors that i want to put on

I Have a 2005 colorado that has major brakes problems.Does anyone else?


The only problem I have seen is warped rotors when overheating/fast braking and hard spots on the rotors. The are not the best quality.

does anyone know how to remove the rotors on an 04 colorado they have this weird line connected to the disk i got new rotors that i want to put on

The line is the antilock sensor. It needs to come off and put on the new rotor so it can read the encoder.

I Have a 2005 colorado that has major brakes problems.Does anyone else?

My daughters boyfriend just bought and wrecked his brand new 06 colorado. He was going around 35 and came to a stop sign and the truck did not stop. He did not even have the plates on the truck yet. He wraped the front end around a pole.

My daughters boyfriend just bought and wrecked his brand new 06 colorado. He was going around 35 and came to a stop sign and the truck did not stop. He did not even have the plates on the truck yet. He wraped the front end around a pole.

Odd. Was his emergency brake bad too?

Odd. Was his emergency brake bad too?

He did not have time to apply them. Witness said he was pressing on the brake but it did not stop. The Cevrolet manufacturers called to get a statement but we have not heard anything about it yet.

I Have a 2005 colorado that has major brakes problems.Does anyone else?

What kind of brake issues are you having? My daughters boyfriend bought a new 06 and within @2weeks the brakes failed and he hit a pole. The insurance is fixing the truck, we are claiming brake failure. There was witness that told me at the scene that he was pressing the brakes because they even saw the brake lights. One even said they saw him from the side when he pressed the brakes and saw the movement when he let up and pressed again.

Odd. Was his emergency brake bad too?

Take it from an old guy who's had his share of beaters, when the brakes fail you don't have time to think. Downshift, turn key off, emergency brake, swerve to curb, etc. Not a chance, you stab those brakes again and the vehicle goes faster it seems. Sure shouldn't happen in a new vehicle and a younger driver wouldn't have a chance.

I purchased an 05 Colorado at the end of 04. Its my first brand new vechicle and I also have had nothing but problems. The most recent is the check engine light came on resulting from loss of compression in one of the cylinders. My truck is just out of manufactorers warranty and into extended warranty (40k). It's been at the dealer since 1/9 and today they informed me that the cylinder head that I have been waiting on is non existent. They don't have a part for it nor can they find one so I have to sit back and wait, while I have no transportation and am paying a note on something I can't drive. Any advice?

Thanks!

I've noticed them in the atlanta area get some friends and relatives and they carry picket signs telling about the dealer. They do this on a weekend morning when a lot of customers are looking. Some people get an old car painted lemon yellow and park it out front.
Depending on your phone company rates start calling big dealerships hunting the part. Also use the internet. You can even call junk yards for a used part send it to a machine shop for a valve job,pressure test and shaved. Depending on you engine size surely a head is available.

Wow...I have a 2004 Colorado...I haven't had any problems with it...just the recall on the brake light switch....

Yes colorodos are trouble, i have a 2004 z71 and its been trouble since i bought it. Within the first 10000 miles an ignition module burnt out then 2 months later the radio burnt out, then on 15000 miles the o2 censor whent out.Then 2000 miles later the o2 censor whent out again. Now my problem is the anti theft system, the security switch in the ignition is fowled out wich cuts the fuel system off when you try to start it up. So when i get it fixed chevy and stick it and im tradeing it in, if anyone would be dumb enough to take it hahaha

I have a 04 Colorado with 28k miles. The front turn signal socket ate lamps until I figured out the problem. The new baseless lamps are CHEAP, no other reason for their use.

My heat/AC blower stopped working except in high speed. Most posts on the subject imply a failed resistor. In my Colorado, NOT the case. Those GM "engineers?" have the blower wiring harness hanging down into the passenger foot well. It gets kicked and I had to unplug and replug to solve the problem. It will probably work until kicked again. The armrests are "loose" and squeek when pulling the door shut or operating the PWs. In general; No real serious problems but the Colorado is a CHEAP, CHEAP truck! Never another GM vehicle for me, hello Toyota!

woody, same problem here with my 04 4x4 Colorado. The heater/AC only works part of the time. When we were on a trip, I stretched my leg out sorta under the dash and the heater started blowing again.
I haven't had any real serious problems yet. Occasionally, if I am sitting at a stop sign, the brakes will slowly go to the floor, and sometimes my ABS light come on for a minute. My son is trying to change my front breaks now, but the hub wont come off. Anyone know whats holding it on there? We even got a hub puller and it wont budge

I haven't worked on a Colorado but the brake pedal going to the floor usually indicates the master cylinder is bypassing internally.
On some front hubs you need a slide hammer to remove them. But I found them on a Honda not a U.S. vehicle but they may have changed.

I haven't worked on a Colorado but the brake pedal going to the floor usually indicates the master cylinder is bypassing internally.
On some front hubs you need a slide hammer to remove them. But I found them on a Honda not a U.S. vehicle but they may have changed.


Thanks rhandwor, The brakes only did that a couple times and not for a long while. I've had the truck since August 2006 and really haven't had any big issues with it. Maybe the guy that owned it before me got all the bugs worked out already lol I just bought a Hanes repair manual so maybe we can figure out that Hub system. I was told its like the Toyotas. The garage wanted $780.00 to put new brakes on because of the front hubs. I about passed out. My son will be doing it for me. Anyway, I do appreciate your reply and I'll tell him to check that master cylinder:smile:

The front rotors on the Colorado is a captured-rotor set-up. There are 6 bolts holding it on and its also pressed onto the hub. It's much easier to turn the rotors while still attached to the truck if they are still in good shape. The pads themselves only take 10 minutes to replace.

For the HVAC, the fan motor resistor is most likely the culprit. I listed the parts nedded in this thread: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=877307

Thanks DBNissan,
Is there any way to get that hub off so I don't have to pay the garage $700 to fix it? I bought new rotors and Bindex pads for it already. The rotors show some wear and I would prefer to put new ones on it with the new ceramic pads.

Thanks DBNissan,
Is there any way to get that hub off so I don't have to pay the garage $700 to fix it? I bought new rotors and Bindex pads for it already. The rotors show some wear and I would prefer to put new ones on it with the new ceramic pads.

The removal procedure isn't shown in the Haynes manual? I was thinking of picking one up but if it doesn't show that then there may be other info that's not listed. All the copies I've seen are sealed in plastic wrap. I can get the info from a friend that's a GM Tech. PM me your email and I can send you a MSword copy of it.

Nope, it wasn't in the Hanes manual. It was sealed in plastic so no pages ripped out lol

I'll pm you my e-mail, I appreciate the help. Thanks so much !!!

As far as I know they have two different type of pullers. One bolts onto the lug nuts and you turn they screw in this will loosen it up quite abit.
Then use a slide hammer. This bolts onto the lug nuts. It has a long rod with a 5lb. or a 10lb. hammer. It is about 2 inch diameter with a hole in the center. You slide this between the piece that bolts on and the stop on the other end.
They are very tight which is why I bought a 10 hammer from Snap-on it has a 13/16 inch shaft. Most of them have a 5 lb. hammer with a 5/8 inch shaft. They are a bought 18 inch to 2 foot long. You can do it with the smaller hammer but it takes longer. You will work up a sweat if you are not in shape.
You can rent from Advance or Auto Zone. They also sell them at Pep Boys.

The GMT355 has a captured rotor set-up. You have to remove the steering knuckle to access the mounting bolts for the wheel bearing/hub, brake rotor assembly. Then you can remove the bolt holding the hub and rotor together.

Since I haven't done one I would go to http://www.alldata.com/ and buy a years subscription for your vehicle. This is what shop owners buy except they buy for 10 years worth of vehicles.
I did read a write up by somebody who did his own. He removed the caliper and hanged it up with a metal coat hanger. Removed and marked the anti lock sensor. He found access to all mounting bolts and removed the hardware which holds the caliper and removed it. He couldn't use an impact and even a swivel and had to use a combination box and open wrench.
If your new rotor had bolts for the lug nuts in it I would use a puller. He used a block of wood and a hammer to remove it.
If comes off this way I'm sure GM mechanics do it this way but use a puller.
They get paid flat rate not by the hour.

I HAVE A 2005 CHEVY COLORADO, THE ENGINE LIGHT STAYS ON. I RECENTLY GOT A LETTER ABOUT THE RECALL ON THIS. SAYING THAT IF LET GO THIS WOULD CAUSE AN UNEVEN IDOL. AND ENGINE TROUBLE. I CAN'T FIND THE LETTER, MY 3 GRANDKIDS CAME TO LIVE WITH US AND THINGS GOT MOVED AROUND.I WILL CONTINUE TO LOOK FOR IT. MY COLORADO IS NOW RUNNING RUFF AND IT DYED ON MY WIFE WHEN SHE PULLED OUT ON TO THE INTERSTATE. THIS SCARED HER VERY BAD, THERE WAS ALOT OF TRAFFIC COMMING. SHE GOT LUCKY AND WAS ABLE TO GET IT STARTED IN TIME TO GET OUT OF THE WAY OF TRAFFIC. LYNN MAY

The chevy dealer states there never was a recall on the engine light? whatever. I suspose I imagened the letter.

I would try 2 or 3 dealers if you can't find the letter. They make more money when you pay.

I HAVE A 2005 CHEVY COLORADO, THE ENGINE LIGHT STAYS ON. I RECENTLY GOT A LETTER ABOUT THE RECALL ON THIS. SAYING THAT IF LET GO THIS WOULD CAUSE AN UNEVEN IDOL. AND ENGINE TROUBLE. I CAN'T FIND THE LETTER, MY 3 GRANDKIDS CAME TO LIVE WITH US AND THINGS GOT MOVED AROUND.I WILL CONTINUE TO LOOK FOR IT. MY COLORADO IS NOW RUNNING RUFF AND IT DYED ON MY WIFE WHEN SHE PULLED OUT ON TO THE INTERSTATE. THIS SCARED HER VERY BAD, THERE WAS ALOT OF TRAFFIC COMMING. SHE GOT LUCKY AND WAS ABLE TO GET IT STARTED IN TIME TO GET OUT OF THE WAY OF TRAFFIC. LYNN MAY

The chevy dealer states there never was a recall on the engine light? whatever. I suspose I imagened the letter.


The letter you got was a SPECIAL Policy in regards to a condition that may cause the SES light to come on.
Take your vehicle back to the dealer and have them diagnose the rough running and SES light.
The special policy letter is #07123A. You won't need the letter, just refer them to this number

I would try 2 or 3 dealers if you can't find the letter. They make more money when you pay.

I have read your posts on this thread and you are giving alot of bad and incorrect information.
If you haven't worked on these trucks, like you stated, enough said

http://www.coloradofans.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=F&t=65580
Honda used these type of rotors for years and the manual said use a slide hammer. Its possible the bearings aren't Honda quality.
http://www.sporttruck.com/techarticles/0805st_2007_chevrolet_colorado_wheels_brakes/bolt_pattern.html Anyhow I wrote to fast but a tool is needed to remove the hub. (http://www.sporttruck.com/techarticles/0805st_2007_chevrolet_colorado_wheels_brakes/bolt_pattern.html)
http://www.autopart.com/tools/toolsmain/tool/T_4300.htm They also make these with a slide hammer.
The point is I doubt using a slide hammer will damage the bearing but I would use a puller like the one in the picture not a Porta power. Many articles show removing many more parts.
Auto Zone or Advanced loan these tools.
For your information I wasn't critical of dealer mechanics merely stating they use what ever short cuts they can.

http://www.coloradofans.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=F&t=65580
Honda used these type of rotors for years and the manual said use a slide hammer. Its possible the bearings aren't Honda quality.
http://www.sporttruck.com/techarticles/0805st_2007_chevrolet_colorado_wheels_brakes/bolt_pattern.html


First off, it's not a Honda
You must remove the hub assembly from the vehicle, then unbolt the rotor from the hub.

Knowledge gained from experiance:grinyes:, not from the internet :loser:

I have a 2004 colorado with Z71 suspension The front tires have premature tire ware on the inside and vibrates at highway speeds 50 to 60mph has anybody else had this problem. Call the National Highway Traffic Safety Administratoin it in the back of your owners mamual . My truck has only 18,250 miles on it. Dealer says alignment specifications are on. I know there not . If more people report this problem maybe we can get a recall.

Wheel alignments are not normally covered under warranty. Either pay the dealer for an alignment and tire rotation or go to a tire company like NTB which has an alignment machine and normally do alignments.
Unless you paid for an alignment they probably only checked for worn parts.

I Have A 2005 Chevy Colorado 4cyl 5sp.. I have a problem with the rear brakes locking up all the time. They are also very noisy!! I also have a problem with the RPM's in the morning before the truck warms up 100% the RPM's jump up and down causing the truck to almost loose power. I took the truck to a mechanic and he pulled apart the throttle encasement and cleaned it. this solved the problem but i have to have the throttle encasement cleaned every 8-10 mo. so the truck runs right.. Any ideas on how to fix the brakes that are fairly new. And how do i keep the throttle encasement clean so the truck runs right???

The letter you got was a SPECIAL Policy in regards to a condition that may cause the SES light to come on.
Take your vehicle back to the dealer and have them diagnose the rough running and SES light.
The special policy letter is #07123A. You won't need the letter, just refer them to this number

The RPM's in my 2005 Colorado where jumping up and down causing the truck to loose power and run rough. My mechanic cleaned out the throttle encasement and solved the problem. but in another 8 Mos. or so I had to bring it back again to have him clean it again.. Not sure why this keeps happening!!!

Does anyone know where I can find an ABS sensor for an 04 Colorado (4WD with the 3.5) on the drivers side? We've checked every dealership in Ohio.

You might try some scrap yards parts are hard to find at this time. You could try some dealers around Pittsburgh Pa.

we have had nothing but trouble with this 2005 colorado from the start.
a years of trying to get them to fix the engine light issue and the motor idoling hard and shutting off in the middle of trafic. We made a hard decision and simply stoped making the payments and had them pick this truck up. I received a letter about the engine light issue. And I called the dealer. I was told they did not know what I was refering to. In a move I lost the letter and I was then told unless I could come up with the letter they just could not help me. We decided that $1900.00 + interest was way to much for us to pay to maybe lose our life in a trafic accident due to the engine stopping as we pulled out into traffic.

Lynn & Judy

Beware - 2004/2005 Chev Colorado is know for misfire P0300 code. They need to replace all valves and seals. Get GM to fix this while under warranty. I am looking for the special policy that should provide coverage up to 160,000 kms.

I have an '04 Colorado and I got some issues with my driver side turn signal/parking lights. When I test my parking lights the bulbs are on, when I put the car in drive just the automatic "parking" lights come on my driver side is completely out (both bulbs). My driver side turn signal is also flashing quickly and bulb does not work. I replaced both bulbs. Trying to figure out if i can fix this issue before taking it to a shop. Thanks.

I just recently acquired a 2006 4 cyl manual extended cab work truck with less than 30,000 miles on it. It runs great but the check engine code associated with valve timing keeps coming on and occasionally it switches itself off. I've replaced all the sensors only to have it come on again and then shut itself off again.

I'm not about to invest any more money until I get a reasonable diagnosis of what is causing it to happen. My mechanic has done all the computer based testing he can and gives the motor a good bill of health except for the fact that it doesn't seem to like the valve timing it sees sometimes right when I start the motor. Once it is running, according to the shop, everything is working as designed.

Any suggestions?:confused:

I just recently acquired a 2006 4 cyl manual extended cab work truck with less than 30,000 miles on it. It runs great but the check engine code associated with valve timing keeps coming on and occasionally it switches itself off. I've replaced all the sensors only to have it come on again and then shut itself off again.

I'm not about to invest any more money until I get a reasonable diagnosis of what is causing it to happen. My mechanic has done all the computer based testing he can and gives the motor a good bill of health except for the fact that it doesn't seem to like the valve timing it sees sometimes right when I start the motor. Once it is running, according to the shop, everything is working as designed.

Any suggestions?:confused:
Good morning,
Is your mechanic one of our GM technicians at a dealership? If so, I'd be happy to follow up on this with you! Please send me a private message with more information.

Regards,
Sarah
GM Customer Service

Sarah:

I take my business to an independent shop called "Advanced Automotive Services" in Ypsilanti, MI. The "code" I'm seeing is P0017 which comes up when the computer senses some kind of problem with the valve timing. The problem does not show up when the truck is on the diagnostic system at the shop and it is running.

The code comes on and appears only when the car has been sitting (cold) and I attempt to start it. Starting is "different" from any previously owned vehicle in that there is a slight "hitch" or delay from the time I switch the key to start and when the engine actually kicks over. Compared to other vehicles I've owned, I'm informed, because of the way the computer controls things, first you make the starting contact with the key, then the computer triggers the starting system. If there is a valid problem with the valve timing, it occurs only immediately when starting up, and no "issues" can be seen when the motor is running and connected to a diagnostic unit. My truck is the so-called "bare bones" work truck with manual 5 speed and a four cylinder engine. Unfortunately I know little of its' maintenance history other than it "sat" for some time because its' owner was deployed overseas and eventually decided to sell it.

On a couple of occasions, starting the truck when the check engine light has been on turned it off!




Good morning,
Is your mechanic one of our GM technicians at a dealership? If so, I'd be happy to follow up on this with you! Please send me a private message with more information.

Regards,
Sarah
GM Customer Service

One more thing... In our attempts to resolve this issue, all three of the sensors which contribute to P0017 have been replaced and an after-market backyard mechanic installation of an old Alpine radio/cd player was professionally undone and the radio replaced. Before the readio was fixed, the old radio could be turned off and on when the truck was sitting without a key in it. With the new Harmon Kardon system which lets me play MP3's off a memory card, plug in my MP3 player and/or iPhone/iPod/iPad with an internet connection to use Pandora, etc. was installed, things went back to the "way it should be" IMHO in that if I leave the radio on and shuth the truck off, the radio shuts off. Other systems like the wipers and the interior lights seem to function completely independently of the key. If I want the cabin and bed lights to come on, I have to turn them on manually and if I turn the key off the lights only go off if I turn them off. I see no evidence of "open door" sensors linked to the interior lights.

I'm not sure this is the "way it should be" for the work truck but the documentation I have isn't that difinitive on the subject.

Visited Chevrolet dealership yesterday. Interior lights issue resolved as a training issue. There is a little button on the dash which toggles the automatic lights on and off. They also gave me a printout of the latest technical bulletin on P0017 issues, and shortly after my visit the P0017 check engine code cleared itself and hasn't come back on since.

IMHO the problem with my truck may be that it sits sometimes for several days between uses and the 5W30 oil in seeps down from the hydraulic lines that control the cam timing while it is in the garage. When I start it up cold, sometimes before it gets pressure back up it trips the code. The on-board computer, according to Chevrolet service will clear the code if on three consecutive starts the problem is not sensed. This may well explain my "intermittent" issue with the Check Engine light.. I guess I've got to run my truck a bit more.

BTW winter mileage for the last couple of hundred miles has been 17.5. My Ford Ranger which was a 1995 was getting 18 on similar use with its' 2.3 Liter Mitsubishi, but it didn't have nearly the power of the 2.9 Liter Chevrolet 4 in my new truck.

One more thing... P0017 code came on and went off a couple more times. One of these occurred when the truck was being driven at about 1400 RPM's in 5th gear! I need to change my driving habits and stop "lugging" this obviously "designed to operate at 2k and above" motor!

Yet another update. I finally broke down and used a commercial oil additive to slightly thicken my oil and increase viscosity. Lo and Behold... the Check Engine light as stayed off for several days. My mechanic, after all this, said he didn't think it could be an oil related issue because I had recently changed my oil. It looks like we may have spent over $300.00 for nothing! The additive I tried was recommended for "high performance" engines and the clerk at Auto Zone. At the rate I expect to use it, I now have a two or three year supply!:banghead:

Yet another update. I finally broke down and used a commercial oil additive to slightly thicken my oil and increase viscosity. Lo and Behold... the Check Engine light as stayed off for several days. My mechanic, after all this, said he didn't think it could be an oil related issue because I had recently changed my oil. It looks like we may have spent over $300.00 for nothing! The additive I tried was recommended for "high performance" engines and the clerk at Auto Zone. At the rate I expect to use it, I now have a two or three year supply!:banghead:

these engines are a problem with this code. any dirt or sludge restricts the oil passageways.

to avoid any more code issues p0017 change oil only when engine is hot. use synthetic oil. do not use fram filters. wix/pure one purolator/ac delco are much better at removing particles and have a stronger filter media. lifter leak down is from carbon on the hydroylic lifters therefore use 5 OZ of marvel mystery oil to the crankcase to clean these lifters.

the part that usually causes the code is the camshaft actuator solenoid valve . this has a screen so any dirt/sludge creates this issue. removal of the part and inspect the screen.

many have this problem. increasing oil viscosity may have reduces lifter leaking off. if the lifters have bleed off the timing will be off for a short time. marvel mystery oil does a great job of cleaning the lifters.

[quote=j cAT;6970736]these engines are a problem with this code. any dirt or sludge restricts the oil passageways.

... everything you have cited is on my list for efforts to completely eliminate the problem. This truck, while it had very low mileage for its age, did have signs of use/neglect between 17K miles and the time I bought it. This was a period of almost three years when it dropped off the public record. It was close to a quart low with very dirty oil when I bought it, something I discounted because of the low mileage.

If it went 10K+ miles between the last oil change of record at a dealer and when I changed the oil immediately after I purchased it, I can fully understand how things got the way they were. My problem is with the "system" which makes judgements and recommendations to the independent consumer.

My mechanic discounted oil issues because I had just had the oil changed when I brought it in. I doubt now if any of the replaced sensors were at fault, so I am out over $300 in unnecessary part swapping, and the landfill has three more "throw away" sensors in it.

It is interesting to hear the name of my old favorite, Marvel Mystery Oil. I still own a 1952 Zundapp KS601. This is a horizontal twin designed by Ferdinand Porche. Its motor has pistons, cylinders, valves, and clutch parts in common with the original 32 hp Volkswagen. I found years ago that running a small dose of Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas as a top cylinder lubricant prevented all kinds of issues related to the same problem, formation of carbon deposits on valve stems within the path of combustion gasses.

I have always been somewhat leery of "crankcase cleaning" processes pushed by places like Jiffy Lube and Uncle Ed's Oil Change on the grounds that residual detergent contamination might actually increase post-treatment wear by "thinning" the oil. Maybe now is the time to re-think this issue as well. (Zundapp recommends non-detergent oil and a 1K mile oil change cycle in their user manual published in 1952) Bikes which religiously followed that recommendation ran 100K or more with no "wear out" issues provided valves were kept adjusted properly.

I have used MMO for decades. a couple onces in the fuel tank at fill up and about 5 oz in the crankcase. I had lifter noise when my 2000 silverado was new. leakdown of lifters at cold start. well now at 140,ooomi engine is quiet with no noises. this is also with using mobil 1 5-30wt oil. pure one oil filters also work great. cut them open and you will see a good filtration media. wix also !

your engine from reports of others has a oil sludge issue . you have to be careful on your oil change intervals and change the oil only when hot and allow time for a full drain , likke a 30 minute time period.

I never throw sensors away when the replacing causes no effect. these can be used later to troubleshoot.

Last year about this time my 2005 Colorado (just short of 67000miles) started stalling. Didn't matter if I was on the interstate at speed or accelerating away from a stop sign in town, sometimes it would just sputter and quit. I took it to a shop (not a dealer) and they hooked up the computer for diagnosis. They told me it was fuel filter. Replaced. A couple weeks later the same thing started happening. This time they told me was fuel injectors. Actually showed me on the computer there was a clear miss on one of the cylinders. I had the fuel injectors cleaned and the computer replaced(they lost ability to read it) and they said all was well. When I went to pick it up and drove it out of the lot the same thing happened again. Mechanic came back out, lifted the hood, and stared for a bit before seeing a sensor (Mass Air Flow) that didn't seem to be fully connected. Reseated that and all has been well ever since.

Well...until a week or so ago when the engine light came back on and the stalling commenced again. I am not that comfortable taking the truck back to the mechanic from last year and honestly not sure WHERE to take the thing at this point. Is this a known issue? Anyone else suffering the same behavior? When it runs, it runs great and I have had no other issues with the vehicle. When it decides to stall, however, I can expect the same behavior until I park it and let it cool down completely (such as park it and try it again the next day).

Any assistance or information would be much appreciated.

--Wayne in Kentucky

fuel delivery problems cannot be determined by a computer/scanner.

what is to be done is using a pressure guage measure and perform the fuel pressure test proceedure.

miss fires and poor hot start can be many things. fuel pressure testing clears out this ONE cause.

I would say replacing the fuel filter at every 30-40,ooomi is what is needed any way ! use injector cleaner like techron every 3-5,ooomi.

keep fuel level above 1/4 tank at all times.

with the current issue go to a auto parts store like autozone and get the failure DTC codes pulled then post here for proper direction to resolve this issue.