Shadetree mechanic without a tree....

A couple of months ago my girlfriend's car began stalling when she would come to a stop. We took it to a mechanic were we used to live and he could not find anything wrong with it. Needless to say the problem persisted, so we took it back. He said that he had "rigged something up" to keep it running but the service engine light would stay on.

About a week or so ago, I was checking the fluids and noticed a harness disconected from what I eventually discovered was the EGR valve(I don't think I'm up to "shadetree mechanic", more like guy with a budget and a Haynes manual). So, numb-wittingly I hooked it up:screwy:, and the carr began acting worse than before. I unhooked it and no result.

We then took it to a mechanic were we live now and he cleaned it and basically did whatever the first man did. He said it needed a new one but it would cost over $300, and that this "rig" would be OK. Unfortunatly, it seems to be going bad again.

I looked threw my Haynes manual, and it seems simple enough to replace, and the valve will cost less than half what the shop wanted. My main concern, I suppose is that it seems a really simple job, but would cost alot to have someone else do it. Is there something more involved in replacing the valve that would make it an expensive job, or have labor charges gone threw the roof?

Also, should I replace the selinoid as well?

Any advive would be greatly appreciated, and thank you for your time.

i assume this is a 1995 SLx? L-series didn't come around until 2000. labor rates depend partly on location, here in chicago, its about $95/hour. you should aslo replace the EGR gasket. 90% of EGR problems can be solved with a good cleaning. use sensor safe carb and choke cleaner, make sure the pintle move freely. the 95s have an linear electric EGR, there is no external solenoid. since you will have the carb cleaner handy anyways, for the hell of it remove the intake tubing and clean the throttle body and IAC.

Wow....so many problems with the EGR valve. Actually, the installation is very simple! There is one wiring harness and two bolts that secure it to the engine. Just make sure you replace the gasket along with the valve and you should be set....if the EGR valve is the problem (that would be my guess.)

Thank you both, for your help. I get confused some times with the Haynes manual and what year and model they use as an example. Thanks again.