Low coolant light messege

:eek7:
Hey kids! JK

Anyway I have this car you know what it is...the problem is my coolant isn't low:screwy:..........So now what:confused:

Anyone have any idea what sensor it may be? I already have to spend an arm and a leg getting these brakes done every oil change:lol2:

Seriously though....I am going fkn nuts here:sly: these issues stink...

H.E.L.P......!!!!!!!!!!!

Amanda:smokin:

your dealership can hook it up to their machine and find out whats wrong with it. My dealership charged $50. They just scan the computer. Is the car putting out any codes?

The sensor should be in the side of the coolant reservoir. Has the coolant been low lately? Sometimes, when it is low the sensor will dry out and after you refill the reservoir, it will take a while before the light goes out.

your low coolant module is on radiator under the filler cap. it's 50$ from dealer.

So should I fill up my reserve tank and see if that is the problem? I know a while back it was about half a gallon low, we filled it, and it doesn't get past 1-4 normal running temp. I will talk to the man, and have him do that, and see what happens. The worst thing is the light is on, no other probs with that. It does go out after I run it for a while. (the light)
Thanks

Amanda

you probably have a small leak that u can't see. i doubt it has anything to do with re-fill tank. need to run a pressure test on cooling system. and also you need to take dexcool out and put green radiator fluid in. trust me

Did they switch the newer gen back to a normal radiator and an overflow tank? I thought they still had the pressurized reservoir tank, and no cap on the radiator.

And yes switch to the green antifreeze. You must drain the Dexcool and flush the system real well first though.

it looks like the same style tank as on my early 90's civic. and tank does have a cap

I was helping a guy on here, he told me his car was overheating I told him to check the coolant in his radiator, he told me that the radiator didn't have a cap but the reservoir did. That's why I thought it was the style like mine. Did they make some of the new gen. like that? Or was the guy an idiot?

I have a 2001 impala with low coolant warning sensor light on. Took it to the Dealer and they preasure tested it and found the water pump leaking. I changed out the water pump for a new one and still having the same problem? The coolant is topped up get good heat so there is circulation with water pump. Resevior is full radiator is full. Coolant sensor is on the battery side of radiator square looking device. suspect it to be bad order? I can see coolant all the way to the top in radiator. Temperature gauge is running at optimum. I hate lights that don't mean anything. Is there anyway to reset this? I have also bleed the system to no avail!

Can anyone tell me why DEC Cool is not any good and the green stuff is better? I thought DEC was superior in longevity.

well Deathcool apparantly gets contaminated if the coolant level gets to low makes it useless, this is what i've been told by a few people. People also believe that Deathcool eats away at the engine gaskets and certain metals. I know people that have kept their coolant levels tip top and havent had one complaint. The Green stuff and deathcool are completely different chemicals from what im told??. All i know is that you cannot mix the two at all or it will gunk up your system. I dont quite know why the green stuff is better but i know u must!!! change it every 36,000 miles. Some1 else im sure can explain this better lol.

I found this using search but does anybody know what the problem is when "coolant low" stays on and all coolant is at proper levels? There doesn't seem to be an answer given here. but it sure seems to be a common problem. So... what has the solution been?

Thanks,
KennyC

well Deathcool apparantly gets contaminated if the coolant level gets to low makes it useless, this is what i've been told by a few people. People also believe that Deathcool eats away at the engine gaskets and certain metals. I know people that have kept their coolant levels tip top and havent had one complaint. The Green stuff and deathcool are completely different chemicals from what im told??. All i know is that you cannot mix the two at all or it will gunk up your system. I dont quite know why the green stuff is better but i know u must!!! change it every 36,000 miles. Some1 else im sure can explain this better lol.

Just to clairify, Dexcool is propelyne glycol and the green stuff is ethalyne glycol. they are BOTH glycol base antifreeze. NEITHER one will eat gaskets or metal. The difference is that ethelyne gets "Old" and looses its effecientcy. the Dexcool last for 50k or more and still retains over 80% of its effectiveness. It only gets dirty from other comtaminants.

Most problems are coolant leaks, some that are hard to find. Plus when toping off the coolant, you must bleed all air from the system. thus the small bleeders that are located on various places.

Hope this helps.

Just to clarify correctly. Dexcool is Ethylene Glycol based just like the green antifreeze, the difference is the additive packages. Dexcool has long been suspected to be the cause of GM's intake gasket failure plague, but it hasn't been significantly proven whether or not it actually does any damage, therefore any statement that Dexcool does or doesn't do harm to the gaskets is incorrect. GM states that it doesn't damage the gaskets. Many lawyers and independant people state that it does eat the gaskets. Both sides have "evidence" showing that they are correct, but definitive proof has yet to be produced.

The statments that ethylene gets "old" and loses it's efficiency and that Dexcool lasts for 50k and retains 80% of its effectiveness, are also incorrect and completely circumstantial. The life and effectiveness of any antifreeze is determined by it's reserve alkalinity.

Dexcool (just like the green stuff) loses it's effectiveness when it gets contaminated, it doesn't merely get dirty. The main cause of Dexcool contamination is air that's introduced when coolant levels aren't maintained. Dexcool doesn't have a problem with oxygen directly, the problems lies within the way that the system acts when oxygen is introduced. The standard green antifreeze is affected by air getting in the system as well, the difference being that it doesn't have the sludging problem.

The whole goal of the antifeeze is to keep the coolant an alkaline mixture. This helps to prevent electrolysis which is the main cause of damage to the cooling system. Electrolysis is caused by the coolant getting acidic causing it to become ionized and produce voltage. This voltage in the system causes pin hole leaks to form.

All antifreezes must be an alkaline mixture to protect the system from electrolysis, the additives are what makes the coolant alkaline. The coolant is much more alkaline than what is needed to protect the system, this is because as the corrosion inhibitors neutralize acids formed anytime that something "attacks" the cooling system, the alkalinity of the coolant is reduced. The extra alkalinity, there to expand the useful life of the coolant, is called reserve alkalinity.

When air is introduced in to a cooling system, the air and water mix with metal, and causes corrosion in the form of rust.

Wikipedia defintion of rust:
"Rust is the substance formed when iron compounds corrode in the presence of water and oxygen. It is a mixture of iron oxides and hydroxides. Rusting is a common term for corrosion, and usually corrosion of steel.

Iron is found naturally in the ore hematite as iron oxide, and metallic iron tends to return to a similar state when exposed to air, (hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, etc) and water. This corrosion is due to the oxidation reaction when iron metal returns to an energetically favourable state. Energy is given off when rust forms. The process of rusting can be summarized as three basic stages: The formation of iron(II) ions from the metal; the formation of hydroxide ions; and their reaction together, with the addition of oxygen, to create rust.

Iron is the main component of steel and the corrosion of steel is observed more frequently, since iron is rarely used without alloying in the present day.

When steel contacts water, an electrochemical process starts. On the surface of the metal, iron is oxidised to iron(II):

Fe → Fe2+ + 2e-

The electrons released travel to the edges of the water droplet, where there is plenty of dissolved oxygen. They reduce the oxygen and water to hydroxide ions:

4e- + O2 + 2H2O → 4OH-

The hydroxide ions react with the iron(II) ions and more dissolved oxygen to form iron oxide. The hydration is variable, however in its most general form:

Fe2+ + 2OH- → Fe(OH)2
4Fe(OH)2 + O2 → 2(Fe2O3.xH2O) + 2H2O

Hence, rust is hydrated iron(III) oxide. Corrosion tends to progress faster in seawater than fresh water due to higher concentration of sodium chloride ions, making the solution more conductive. Rusting is also accelerated in the presence of acids, but inhibited by alkalis. Rust can often be removed through electrolysis, however the base metal object can not be restored through this method."


In a cooling system this rust is neutralized by the corrosion inhibitors, reducing the system's reserve alkalinity, which in turn shortens it's life. (This is why in real world applications, Dexcool doesn't last 150,000 miles) The degradation of coolant is constantly being accelerated as new things are introduced into the system. The suspended rust particles, increase the conductivity of the coolant, accelerating electrolysis. Not only does electrolysis remove particles from the aluminum componets of the system, but it also removes some of the rust from the componets containing iron. The suspended particles have an additionial negative effect in dexcool systems due to the OAT attacking, and clinging to the suspended particles, causing a thick, rust colored sludge. As the OAT is drawn to the sludgy masses, it offers less protection to the system componets, allowing more rust to form, further accelerating the process. All this is why it is crucial to maintain your system and keep the coolant fresh.