shifter - maybe clutch?

I own a 94 sl2 DOHC 5 spd. Lately i have noticed that when i try to put it into gear that it sticks....i have to cram the shifter into every gear....even reverse. it only happens when the car is on. I have checked for leaks in the clutch master slave cylinder and there are none. What else could this be? HELP

does double clutching help?

possibly clutch, cables, syncros(unlikey), or fluid too thick(it should be ATF, not oil)

try pushing down on the clutch all the way too

ok so i woke up this morning only to find that the clutch is feather light and i cannot put the car into gear. I talked to an auto shop by my work and he said that to replace the clutch he would have to order a certain 'hydrolic' part from the saturn dealership. I am going to purchase a SPEC stage 2 clutch anyways but i want to be 100% positive that it is the clutch.

it really sounds like a clutch problem to me

now it grinds when i try to put it into gear.

I had a similar problem with the clutch on my 95 SL2. The problem was intermittent, but when it acted up you could not get it into any gear, period. I checked to make sure that the clutch pedal was being pushed down all the way, and had the proper amount of fluid. Still, could not get it into any gear. I pulled the cover on the shifter and checked to see if any of the cables were binding. Was fine, but still had issues. When at my wits end, the problem went away as suddenly as it had appeared. It lasted off and on for about 2-3 weeks. That was about 4 months ago. I believe it was a slave cylinder problem. Could have possibly been trash or something in there. Still don't know what happened to this day. Certainly stumped the Saturn Dealer! If it ever comes back I'll tear apart the whole clutch system and rebuild it with all new pieces.

ok well my friend had this problem and basically he taught his girlfriend how to drive and she screwed his tranny all to pieces. it was griding and it wouldnt go into gears easily. he had the tranny replaced and it fixed the problem for a little while. then it started doing it again and so he replaced the clutch and the problem never came back... i'd start with clutch and then go tranny

I am going to purchase a SPEC stage 2 clutch anyways
Why stage 2? A stage 1 will work just as well unless you have or plan to have a lot of extra horses under the hood.

plan #1 = turbo

im already in the process of making my own kit. An upgrade to a stage 2 was already on my list but i didnt want to replace just the clutch without knowing that something else i wrong.

really sounds like the clutch, check fluid

i checked the fluid on the dip stick and there was plenty. It didnt seem thick at all. I'm assuming its the clutch and not the slave cylinder. I am going to take it to a shop this week and find out for sure what it is.

it probably is the clutch. but first, do you have a hydraulic clutch in ur model. i have one in mine; it could be the source of ur problems, from what it sounds like.

i'm pretty sure its a hydrolic clutch. sierrap615 would be able to tell me. how would it be the source of my problem. Im clueless when it comes to clutch and transmission work. im only 17 years old so i'll learn. My boss told me that if i buy the clutch and bring it in that he'll help me install it. I am going to get the stage 2 SPEC kit from SPS. It comes with the disk, pressure plate, alignment tool, and a new throw-out bearing. Is there anything else that i should replace while my car is in pieces?

i'm pretty sure its a hydrolic clutch. sierrap615 would be able to tell me. how would it be the source of my problem. Im clueless when it comes to clutch and transmission work. im only 17 years old so i'll learn. My boss told me that if i buy the clutch and bring it in that he'll help me install it. I am going to get the stage 2 SPEC kit from SPS. It comes with the disk, pressure plate, alignment tool, and a new throw-out bearing. Is there anything else that i should replace while my car is in pieces?


all S-series are hydralic clutches, and i think all other saturn models are too. the hydralics replace the linkage or cables for the clutch as seen on older cars. when you press the pedal down, it transmit the force to the move the pressure plate out. the clutch is sandwiched between the pressure plate and flywheel, clutch moves at the same speed as the trans, the pressure plate and flywheel moves at engine speed. the pressure plate is under extreme spring pressure, so be careful with it. the spring pressure clamps everything together so the clutch doesn't slip. when you press the clutch pedal down, you are overcoming that spring pressure so the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel can seperate and the engine and trans move freely from each other. so if the hydrolics(which are self adjusting) crap out the clutch can ether clamp to much or not enough. remember the fork that moves the pressure plate only moves back and forth, the pressure plate is rotating. thats where the throw-out bearing comes in, as with most bearings, it allows a moving part to contact a non-moving part. rotating, non-rotating, engine on, engine off, see where i'm going? that bearing is fighting the spring pressure from before. holding the clutch in for a long time will wear out the bearing(put it in netral at red lights, train crossings, and such)

you will need you replace the hydralics too.(standard procedure)

inspect flywheel, resurface if nessacry(or if you want to upgrade to a lightwieght flywheel), check the engine rear seal and transmission front seal for leaking, inspect the ring gear on the flywheel, careful with the axle seals. inspect/lube shifter cables(white lithuim grease),inspect cable retainer clips. there are a few how-tos on saturnfans.com

u may just have a problem with the hydraulic system. iu should check to see if it was operating properly before u replace anything.

ok so my friend just told me that if i get the SPEC stage 2 clutch and put it on my almost stock motor that i might not have enough power to turn the clutch. is this true or is he stupid?

come on i know someone out there knows.

he is stupid, this is from SPSwebpage.com

SPEC performance stage two clutch kits offer even more performance and holding power than the stage one kits. SPEC stage two kits are still designed to be driver friendly - yet they deliver additional holding power and durability to handle more aggressive conditions (between 280 and 295 ft-lbs of torque, depending on the application.) All stage two kits use a unique performance pressure plate with approximately 55% more clamp load than stock. This results in a pedal that is slightly firmer than stock, but not stiff. The stage two's sprung hub and segmented kevlar disc also ensure smooth engagement.

it will feel and act differently from the stock clutch, but it will work

haha good thing. because i just ordered one. It should be here by tuesday. i'll post after i install it and let you guys know how it is

ok i finally got the clutch in. I had no time so i took it to a shop to have it done. They put in the stage 2 clutch along with a new master cylinder. After everything was replaced the mechanic drove it. Before i jumped in to take off he told me that going into 2nd and 3rd gear it grinds a little bit. He told me that this is a transmission problem and its probably the 'brass linkage' or something along those lines. He said something about 'brass' but i cant remember. What woud this be? I also asked him if i drove it like this for a little while if it would get worse. He said no. Any help would be great because its pretty embarrassing when you drive down the road and you grind in 2 straight gears!

going back to my first post

does double clutching help?

possibly clutch, cables, syncros(unlikey), or fluid too thick(it should be ATF, not oil)

the syncros are the brass parts i beleave he is refuring to. if so, they shouldn't grind when you double clutch.

syncros! thats what it was haha. how much do new syncros cost?

I heard it is good to double clutch if you have a turbo. I dunno if it's true or not or why it's good if it is true, but it is definitely is easier on the tranny doing this.

i haven't heard anything about double clutching with turbo. however semi truck do require double clutching, but they don't have syncros.

i have no clue the cost of synrcos, call your dealership or parts store.

BTW - manual tranny rebuilds are fun, also ask about the tranny rebuild gasket kit, its about $70 IIRC

ok so i replaced my clutch and master/slave cylinder only to find that
the clutch is feather light and i cannot put the car into gear? Any idea or suggestions?

please do not resurrect old threads, starting a new thread specific to your problem will result in more direct replys.
exact cause - not sure, but guessing...

check(in general order of ease and likelyness)-
fluid level
leaks
slave cylinder not properly installed or not yet fully adjusted
master cylinder not properly installed/ linkage to pedal
clutch fork improperly installed
clutch improperly installed