1995 Sable Stalling & Starting Problems
chelten
11-27-2004, 04:44 PM
Hi,
I am at my wits end with my sable lately, or maybe its with the ford dealership that cannot seem to find the problem.
My 1995 sable will periodically not start for me, the starter cranks but doesnt seem to catch any fuel to get started. I can leave the car for an hour or so after this happens and it will start back up without any problem.
Also, periodically while driving on the highway, the check engine light will come on for a second or two and it seems like the car is "coasting" or not getting any gas. The problem seems to fix itself as soon as it begins and i can hit the gas pedal again and accelerate, but it scares me.
Third, once and awhile the car will be driving between 30-40 miles an hour and will stall out while driving and not start again. Once I get the car to a stop, it will not be able to start again. The starter cranks like it does when it cannot start as i mentioned at the top of my post, but it will not start up again unless I leave it for an hour or so.
All my problems seem to go away if i leave the car sitting for an hour or so? does anyone have any suggestions on what my mechanic is missing?
I have already had them...
-replace the head gaskets and engine mounts
-replace distributor cap and roto
-run a fuel induction service and filter
-clean fuel indectors, throttle body and fuel line
-replace fuel filter
??- replace T.P sensor, plugs and wires, clead coil tower and MAF sensor
-and had them replace the cylindear heads and check for cracks and broken seals
Can anyone help me, im quite a novice at what needs to be done
I am at my wits end with my sable lately, or maybe its with the ford dealership that cannot seem to find the problem.
My 1995 sable will periodically not start for me, the starter cranks but doesnt seem to catch any fuel to get started. I can leave the car for an hour or so after this happens and it will start back up without any problem.
Also, periodically while driving on the highway, the check engine light will come on for a second or two and it seems like the car is "coasting" or not getting any gas. The problem seems to fix itself as soon as it begins and i can hit the gas pedal again and accelerate, but it scares me.
Third, once and awhile the car will be driving between 30-40 miles an hour and will stall out while driving and not start again. Once I get the car to a stop, it will not be able to start again. The starter cranks like it does when it cannot start as i mentioned at the top of my post, but it will not start up again unless I leave it for an hour or so.
All my problems seem to go away if i leave the car sitting for an hour or so? does anyone have any suggestions on what my mechanic is missing?
I have already had them...
-replace the head gaskets and engine mounts
-replace distributor cap and roto
-run a fuel induction service and filter
-clean fuel indectors, throttle body and fuel line
-replace fuel filter
??- replace T.P sensor, plugs and wires, clead coil tower and MAF sensor
-and had them replace the cylindear heads and check for cracks and broken seals
Can anyone help me, im quite a novice at what needs to be done
chelten
11-28-2004, 10:27 PM
The only thing I can gather from my internet research is that it could be an IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE gone bad. Does that sound like it rings a bell?
pmadrid
11-29-2004, 04:27 PM
The only thing I can gather from my internet research is that it could be an IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE gone bad. Does that sound like it rings a bell?
My 2000 Sable is having stalling and starting problems.
I am also experiencing the same problem you are with my 2000 Sable. Three different mechanics have diagnosedit. The first one said it was a starter problem or an electrical problem. I took it to another mechanic and they said it was the starter and we put one in. The problem was not solved. It was just like yours I was heading down the freeway and it stalled slightly and then when I got to my destination I had to turn the key several times. We came back.
The second mechanic has said it was a faulty starter so they replaced that starter and that did not cure the problem. They thought it was in the key switch that was not the problem and they replaced the Theft device that was not the problem. So I took it back today where they will tell me its a bad starter again and want me to pay more charges. I am tired of throwing money down the tube. I saw your message board today.
I see that you have indicated it may be an IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE. Did you fix it yet? I would like to tell the mechanic something worked other than continuously replacing the starter.
I need help.....
Pat
My 2000 Sable is having stalling and starting problems.
I am also experiencing the same problem you are with my 2000 Sable. Three different mechanics have diagnosedit. The first one said it was a starter problem or an electrical problem. I took it to another mechanic and they said it was the starter and we put one in. The problem was not solved. It was just like yours I was heading down the freeway and it stalled slightly and then when I got to my destination I had to turn the key several times. We came back.
The second mechanic has said it was a faulty starter so they replaced that starter and that did not cure the problem. They thought it was in the key switch that was not the problem and they replaced the Theft device that was not the problem. So I took it back today where they will tell me its a bad starter again and want me to pay more charges. I am tired of throwing money down the tube. I saw your message board today.
I see that you have indicated it may be an IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE. Did you fix it yet? I would like to tell the mechanic something worked other than continuously replacing the starter.
I need help.....
Pat
chelten
11-29-2004, 06:04 PM
I looked all around the internet and only one guy said it was the Idle air control valve. I have seen people claiming that it is an integrated relay control module gone bad as well... ohly problem is that i dont know what the heck either does or if i am even close.
Then I look around on the internet and read all the stories about the TFI Modules going on the Sables and Tauruses up and including my year (1995), I have no clue if that is the problem either.
the articles are all like this...
http://www.thehollandsentinel.net/stories/082001/new_0820010021.shtml
Then I look around on the internet and read all the stories about the TFI Modules going on the Sables and Tauruses up and including my year (1995), I have no clue if that is the problem either.
the articles are all like this...
http://www.thehollandsentinel.net/stories/082001/new_0820010021.shtml
pmadrid
11-29-2004, 07:41 PM
I looked all around the internet and only one guy said it was the Idle air control valve. I have seen people claiming that it is an integrated relay control module gone bad as well... ohly problem is that i dont know what the heck either does or if i am even close.
Then I look around on the internet and read all the stories about the TFI Modules going on the Sables and Tauruses up and including my year (1995), I have no clue if that is the problem either.
the articles are all like this...
http://www.thehollandsentinel.net/stories/082001/new_0820010021.shtml
Wow that article is pretty frightening. I will tell my mechanic about this tomorrow. Thanks for taking the time to write. Be careful.
Patty
Then I look around on the internet and read all the stories about the TFI Modules going on the Sables and Tauruses up and including my year (1995), I have no clue if that is the problem either.
the articles are all like this...
http://www.thehollandsentinel.net/stories/082001/new_0820010021.shtml
Wow that article is pretty frightening. I will tell my mechanic about this tomorrow. Thanks for taking the time to write. Be careful.
Patty
chelten
12-03-2004, 04:05 PM
just as i thought, a TFI module.
Havent had the problems yet.
they say if its not that, it might be a distributor. Ill re-post if i get any other problems
Havent had the problems yet.
they say if its not that, it might be a distributor. Ill re-post if i get any other problems
pmadrid
12-10-2004, 08:22 PM
Chelten, I saw your last email regarding the TFI Module, and that it was working. Did it cure your starting problem altogether. I'm still having problems and more bills, but haven't put in the TFI, and I could sure use a miracle. Pat
12/10/04
12/10/04
KZXten
01-04-2005, 05:51 PM
Well we've had the same problems as most all of you. Since this is my wife's get around town car with the kids I like all of you worry.
When she told me about it stalling on her I listened to the problems. Earlier in the summer my brother and I replaced the fuel pump, obviously the problem since when it gets hot (and hot out) the car stalls. Ok when it happened I called my dad and we put our heads together and I again got another education moment that I'll pass on. We both agreed that it probably was the fuel pump and my dad told me that this can be caused by letting your fuel in the tank run low alot. Education moment: the fuel pump in your fuel tank is cooled by the gasoline! Naturally I said hmmm makes sense. After we had replaced the fuel pump my wife didn't have a problem until later in the year.
I finally got around and replaced the plugs and wires since it's been awhile and used CRC cleaner on some of the contacts, and we were going out of state for the holidays. We had no problems for around 500 miles when the car stalled on our return. Here's what I mentally put together after it stalling on me a couple of times. When you either stop suddenly (especially with a load on the engine such as your air conditioner being engaged) or go from reverse to drive or drive to reverse the car will stall. I did have it stall on the highway once but the speed we were going caused it to pop start, much like pop starting a manual transmission vehicle. I also found someone else's post, maybe not on this forum, that if I put the car in nuetral when coming to a stop I would have no problem.
With all this said I'm looking at replacing the TFI (Thick Film Ignition) and more than likely the ignition coil. This kind've makes sense electronically since your computer controls everything. The TFI was reported in the link posted that it can break down, if this happens your computer will try to compensate and with the tolerances messed up because of the breakdown makes sense. Electronically the signal would be slowed and when slowing down the signal might not be fast enough getting to the computer causing the engine to idle down to where it dies. I'm not sure as to why it takes so long to restart the vehicle, our experience between 15 - 30 minutes.
I'll keep you posted as soon as I get it replaced.
BTW we have a '89 Merc Sable with around 160k on it. I find that this car is very reliable (like the time it got us home after the front axle started to grind, around 200 miles on a holiday weekend) other than this problem.
When she told me about it stalling on her I listened to the problems. Earlier in the summer my brother and I replaced the fuel pump, obviously the problem since when it gets hot (and hot out) the car stalls. Ok when it happened I called my dad and we put our heads together and I again got another education moment that I'll pass on. We both agreed that it probably was the fuel pump and my dad told me that this can be caused by letting your fuel in the tank run low alot. Education moment: the fuel pump in your fuel tank is cooled by the gasoline! Naturally I said hmmm makes sense. After we had replaced the fuel pump my wife didn't have a problem until later in the year.
I finally got around and replaced the plugs and wires since it's been awhile and used CRC cleaner on some of the contacts, and we were going out of state for the holidays. We had no problems for around 500 miles when the car stalled on our return. Here's what I mentally put together after it stalling on me a couple of times. When you either stop suddenly (especially with a load on the engine such as your air conditioner being engaged) or go from reverse to drive or drive to reverse the car will stall. I did have it stall on the highway once but the speed we were going caused it to pop start, much like pop starting a manual transmission vehicle. I also found someone else's post, maybe not on this forum, that if I put the car in nuetral when coming to a stop I would have no problem.
With all this said I'm looking at replacing the TFI (Thick Film Ignition) and more than likely the ignition coil. This kind've makes sense electronically since your computer controls everything. The TFI was reported in the link posted that it can break down, if this happens your computer will try to compensate and with the tolerances messed up because of the breakdown makes sense. Electronically the signal would be slowed and when slowing down the signal might not be fast enough getting to the computer causing the engine to idle down to where it dies. I'm not sure as to why it takes so long to restart the vehicle, our experience between 15 - 30 minutes.
I'll keep you posted as soon as I get it replaced.
BTW we have a '89 Merc Sable with around 160k on it. I find that this car is very reliable (like the time it got us home after the front axle started to grind, around 200 miles on a holiday weekend) other than this problem.
KZXten
01-12-2005, 05:24 PM
I finally got the doggone TFI module replaced today! After my last weekend going back and for to Sears looking for the correct socket and doing other errands my time and patience was wearing thin. From then to today the wife reported no problems, but on my way out today to check things out I took the car. I got no further than a block and a half and she died on me. Well that was the last straw I had to get that module replaced!
Ok now for the news, on my Sable the TFI module I found out was a 5.5 mm bolt. So as I said before I had spent some time looking for a deep well socket and now I had to hunt down a 5.5 mm deep well socket. Of course I don't remember seeing one so I decided to call around. To make a long story short I was told to call Auto Zone in which I replied that there wasn't one here. I looked it up on the internet and sure enough there was one here, and later found out it has only been here for three months. To change out the module I got the socket which fit perfectly, and previously while searching I purchased a bit driver with a flexible shaft (DuraPro from Pep Boys) and the socket was Duralast I think.
If you pop off the top of the air filter and move your spark plug wires to the side you can remove the bolts, the inside one if you put the shaft under the coil you can get at it easier. Unhook the end from the TFI then for the most part all you have to do is back the bolts out and it's suggested that you put downward pressure on the right side then move it back up. This basically loosens the unit, once you do this it's pretty easy to pull it down and out. It does barely clear but it will come out. Now all you have to do is install the new unit in reverse order, of course I'd suggest a dental type mirror so that you can see the connectors being seated. I tried putting the new TFI on without the mirror but was a little unsure, but for a couple of bucks at the auto store the mirror put my mind at ease and I didn't have to worry about bending the ends. Once the unit was in the car fired right up. I haven't had it on long enough to tell you if it works but I did drive the car across town and it didn't stall out on me. Of course it did make me wonder for a moment when I put it in neutral, it started to stall and the computer caught it and from then I haven't even felt it start to hesitate. Of course like I said it's a little too early to tell but I feel better.
The cost of the TFI at my local Advance Auto Parts store was just under $35, the 5.5 mm socket I got at my Auto Zone was two and some change, and lastly the bit driver as mentioned above from Pep Boys (if I remember correctly) ran me just under $15. With all this said if you can find everything, providing you don't already have it, at one store it will cost you $50 - $55 and a little time.
Hope this helps, I'll report back a little later to give you an update.
KZXten.
Ok now for the news, on my Sable the TFI module I found out was a 5.5 mm bolt. So as I said before I had spent some time looking for a deep well socket and now I had to hunt down a 5.5 mm deep well socket. Of course I don't remember seeing one so I decided to call around. To make a long story short I was told to call Auto Zone in which I replied that there wasn't one here. I looked it up on the internet and sure enough there was one here, and later found out it has only been here for three months. To change out the module I got the socket which fit perfectly, and previously while searching I purchased a bit driver with a flexible shaft (DuraPro from Pep Boys) and the socket was Duralast I think.
If you pop off the top of the air filter and move your spark plug wires to the side you can remove the bolts, the inside one if you put the shaft under the coil you can get at it easier. Unhook the end from the TFI then for the most part all you have to do is back the bolts out and it's suggested that you put downward pressure on the right side then move it back up. This basically loosens the unit, once you do this it's pretty easy to pull it down and out. It does barely clear but it will come out. Now all you have to do is install the new unit in reverse order, of course I'd suggest a dental type mirror so that you can see the connectors being seated. I tried putting the new TFI on without the mirror but was a little unsure, but for a couple of bucks at the auto store the mirror put my mind at ease and I didn't have to worry about bending the ends. Once the unit was in the car fired right up. I haven't had it on long enough to tell you if it works but I did drive the car across town and it didn't stall out on me. Of course it did make me wonder for a moment when I put it in neutral, it started to stall and the computer caught it and from then I haven't even felt it start to hesitate. Of course like I said it's a little too early to tell but I feel better.
The cost of the TFI at my local Advance Auto Parts store was just under $35, the 5.5 mm socket I got at my Auto Zone was two and some change, and lastly the bit driver as mentioned above from Pep Boys (if I remember correctly) ran me just under $15. With all this said if you can find everything, providing you don't already have it, at one store it will cost you $50 - $55 and a little time.
Hope this helps, I'll report back a little later to give you an update.
KZXten.
KZXten
02-10-2005, 09:06 AM
Almost mid way through Feb. and still going strong. So far no problems reported by the wife regarding stalling or starting problems.
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