Obx Camshafts????

anyone know of someone using "OBX CAMSHAFTS"??? i've seen em around for sale curious if anyone has used them and if so how good are they...?

If their camshafts are anything like their headers, I wouldn't install them if I was paid to.

why whats wrong with there headers i have a obx 4-1 stainless header on my car for over 2 years now... no problems

you can be the guinea pig, somebody has to be the first one to be brave enough

OBX is chaning alot now yes they used to SUCK taint.

Now i hear nothing but good things from them. These cams are contracted out by someone I think Crower so its just a non brand name part.

OBX header I got for my car looked real good but fit like SH**

also look on ebay, their stage 3 cams have less lift/duration than an OEM CTR set would give you, maybe its a misprint though.

allrite finally did the install.... cam shaft and camg ear... we did everything perfect lubed up the cam before installing it lined up the crank with the cam gear... everything was timed good... car idles fine little sluggish... but my valves are CLICKING LOUD AS FUCK and i drove the car has no power througout the whole rpm band NO POWER AT ALL...

do u t hink its cause the valves are too loose and need adjustment? let me know guys....
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alos the motor fucking screams loud sounds like when u bog out but the whole time im flooring it

you HAVE TO adjust the valve lash when installing new cams, who knows if the base circel is exactly the same as the OEM cams you took out, so maybe they were smaller and you have way too much clearance, and the valves wouldnt open as much for as long so youd not have much power, or they are bigger and theres no clearance so the valves never close and you never build good compression. worst case would be that the valves hit the piston because of failure to adjust them, I dont think it would be that far off though to cause piston/valve contact but its possible.

Id say dont run the engine til you check the lash and adjust to it to spec.

i tried to figure out how to adjust the valves.. but i couldnt figure out where u slide the FEELER gauge in at..? i figured out how to loosing the lock nut and adjust it but i dont know where to slide in the feeler gauge at.. can somone help me out there thanks

well, Im pretty sure on D series its between follower/valve and on B series its always between follower/cam lobe.

follower and valve???... wat do these look like any pics or anything.... pics pics pic splease... i need to do this before i can drive

why did you do a cam install not knowing what to do.

to check valve clearances:
set cylinder #1 to TDC then loosen the rocker valve tip(the little screw on the rocker arm). insert the feeler gauge between the top of the valve and the bottom of that little screw. tighten/loosen so you pretty much have to yank the gauge out. repeat on the opposite side of the head (intake/exhaust wise).
repeat steps for all other cylinders GOING IN ORDER ->1,3,4,2,<-
exhaust clearance is .012(.3mm)
intake valve clearance .010(.26mm)
+/- .0008(.02mm) limit

my feeler gauge is in mm's... so wat are the specs for the intake and exhaust on the mm's???

ok i did the valve job today.. intake set to .009 and exhaust was .011 and after i was done i started it up and the ticking is WAY LOUDER THEN BEFORE...

before i adjusted them they were all very very tight.....

intakes were like .004 and exhuast like .006 but even after the adjustment... ITS EVEN WORSE NOW!!!

any ideas?

you POSITIVE the cam is timed correctly? AND cam isnt advanced/retarded by way of cam gear?

if the valve lash didnt do anything for you maybe the valves did hit the piston and they are all F'd. hope not but if you have a high lift cam, insufficient valve lash, and an incorrectly timed cam it can happen. run a compression test and see what the results are?

cuz bent valve->no compression->not much power which you stated earlier.

but why the CLICKING NOISE SO LOUD??? thats what im worried about

these are my problems rite now

clicking noise is SUPER LOUD i retarded my igntion and cam gear timing and the noise is LOWER... but it is still LOUD

car has no power througout the whole RPM BAND

but it idles fine everything is NORMAL

except the ticking noise and NO POWER!!!!!!!


any suggestions

did you change the springs a retainers?

...and why the hell did you do this without knowing what your doing? i hate to say it but you had it coming!

ok, did you use an OBX cam? what specs?

cuz normally springs/retainers are a good idea when installing a more agressive cam.

have you run the compression test yet? because Id think if you bent a valve then it wont be closing quietly anymore, its not a true flat surface closing to a true flat surface, only one point is making full contact now and its noisy.

another thing, what oil you got in there? is it full? chacked to make sure heads still getting oil?

cuz I put a little too thick oil in my accord once and my pump couldnt deal with it so up until about 3k it would tick real loud then go away by 3500 and then as the RPM's dropped it came back.

i am gonna check that all today... and i had someone install the stuff for me he has done it before....

have you had him come back over and doublecheck what he did/troubleshoot the problem for you.

they are sayin sounds like valve's are dropping in and tappin the pistons...

or a spring or something is broken...

im assuming the cams come in different stages, waht stage did you get ?

its a obx camshaft it said stage 1...

it was smaller then the stock one just so u guys know

smaller how? you mean less lift? if so you shouldnt even have installed it? if length then you shouldnt have installed it. if it was diameter of the races(not sure what its called where thay are inside the caps) then you should not have installed them.

cam was the same length and it fit perfect... but the diameter of the new cam AROUND... was smaller then the stock camshaft

andi was told that some cams come smaller then stock and they make more power... doesnt always have to be a bigger cam

explain to me how a cam would make more power with less lift, maybe .001 less lift and a bit more duration might do something but as far as Im concerned whoever told you a cam with less agressive lobes will make more power is a complete moron.

and I am hoping you meant the diameter of the lobes if they were complete circles. cuz that would make more sense, would take less material to get the desired lift but if you mean the part that runs in the races (again not sure what they are called) then you couldnt really install it or adjust the valve lash at all cuz the cam would be bouncing in there like a sumbiatch. if so though theres your noise, everytime the lobe on a certain cylinder starts to open a valve the cam is thrown up against the caps.

please give more detail as to exactly what part is smaller.

the lobes in diameter around in a cirlcle were smaller then the stock one... thats what im saying...

well i had my car at a shop and they adjusted the vavles to spec and it quited down alot... still clicks but not much... and i got my power back but it doesnt seem any faster then it did wit the stock cam/camgear?

like the whole size of this obx cam was smaller in radias around in a circle... i dont know how to explain it... but it feels a bit weaker then when i had the stock cam/camgear in it... rite now i have the cam gear advanced 2 notches and my distributor advanced a bit

well, thing is on a SOHC, IMO at least a cam gear is not much help, if you advance ignition you advance exhaust at the same time, retard exhaust you retard ignition at the same time. so now your exhaust valves are opening sooner and they are closing sooner, not as long of a power stroke and less exhaust expelled from the chamber maybe???

and I thought you had adjusted the valves already?

also I know what you mean now by smaller but there are two diameters on the cam shaft you could be talking about since I cant read minds. I was guessing it was what it was cuz it would be obvious not to install if it was the other.

try putting cam gear back at 0 for a test and see what happens. also run distributor how it was, then you have a fair comparison between the 2 with no other variables.

i had a shop do a valve adjustment so now they are at spec...

and it feels like my car has less power now compared to before with the stock cam/camgear...

before i installed the cam and camgear i had my distributor advance a bit

and now i have the distributor how i had it and the cam gear at plus 2 degrees...

so ur saying try and put them both at 0 u think that will give me more POWER?

and the motor screams FUCKING LOUD when i GUN IT

sounds like OPEN HEADER when i GUN IT

and shouldnt i have gained enought power from adding the camshaft and cam gear..... how come it feels SLOWER?

ok i just found out the camshaft i put in was for a d16z6 is this the reason my car is running so slow?

is there anyway this cam can run rite in the d16y8????

well as far as I know the specs of the 2 arent drastically different, but not sure, and I know that the engine spins saem direction with same firing order, so if it fits in the head and is meant to give one of them more performance then it should the other.

maybe the cam timing between the 2 engines are a little different stock as to where you think you have yours 2 degrees off where its really 9 degrees of or whatever. also about the 0ing them out, I was just saying that you werent running stock cams advanced with ignition advanced so its not a fair comparison between them.

and just for peice of mind you are driving a 96-00 civic EX right? or 96-97 del sol SI?

97 civic ex yes with the d16y8 motor

i need to find out if using a upgraded camshaft for a d16z6 is a good or bad thing...

and i need to figure out wich adjustments i need to make in order to get my car running rite

well, my guess would be find stock cam specs, the D16Z6 cam specs, and the OBX cam specs and compare them.

did you visually compare cams before you put the OBX one in?

hey can i have ur messenger nickname so we can talk easier...

msn/aol/yahoo? any of them i'll add u

yeah when he says its smaller, its either the cam journals are smaller in that case it bouncing around the cam caps, or its the cam lobes, the lobes that push the valves down, is smaller. either case you shouldnt run that cam if its one of those 2.

i wish someone could tell me for sure if u can run a d16z6 aftermarket camshaft in a d16y8 motor... that way i can know

and if i do run it what will happen if anything?

I cant tell you cuz I dont know for sure either way, probably why some of the others who have responded havent answered that directly, but Im willing to bet if it fits in the head, the journals are over the cam and aligned properly, lobes align with followers properly, caps fit cam diameter properly, and engine starts, stays running and hasnt been screwed yet youre ok as far as the 5th gen EX cam in the 6th gen EX engine.

and if its the lobes that are smaller, I agree its a waste of an install but he means (at least this is how I understand it) the base circle, if there was no lobe, is smaller than the stock cam, which just allows you to get more lift out of the cam with the same total diameter. crower even does this for you as a budget route for performance gains.

I could be wrong and he meant if the lobe was continuous it would be smaller, then the base circle would have to be the same increment or more smaller than that otherwise yes it was a waste, which did you mean.

and my msn is maddmatt02 if you were talking to me, Im going to sleep right now though, and if the ticking is quiet now, may be the injectors, you always hear those, usually only when standing in frnt of the car with hood popped, and only on all my hondas, otehr cars ive never been able to hear them. maybe thats it. bust out a stethoscope and play with it, its amazing what you hear inside the engine with one of those.

well the car idles fine and runs smooth....

just has no PULLING POWER it pulled harder before with the stock cam and cam gear...

could the timing be off will that cut out power?

well, if ignition timing is way off it could, which way did you turn the dist to advance it? turn it so the top is towards the firewall to advance. and cam timing definately would mess up the power. I did it once and had them off 1 tooth on the cam gear and I knew it when driving it. id check to make sure the cams in time with everything once more.

and its @msn.com just so you know.


does it feel like vtec is still actuating?

i noticed when the time comes for vtec to engage it hesitates then it starts to pull again...

the motor screams loud... and when time for vtec to kick in the sound goes away for a split second then comes rite back...

i added u but it says ur OFFLINE

well yeah, I said the post before I was going to bed, its east coast over here so I was up at 3 AM :eek: , thats where I draw the line.

best bet , burn that POS cam and get one thats worth a damn ... this is the 3rd time i have heard of someone having big prblems with OBX cams ... a friend of mine had a terrible experience with some once , and another friend of mines girl , had some issues with her civic being very sluggish , we found out she had OBX cams in there , got some stock cams for her SI in there again and it was pulling WAAAAYYY harder than before ... OBX is GARBAGE !!

i got the problem fixed... my timing was off 40 degrees retarded... off 2 teeth... now its rite on timing.. and it pulls HARDER THEN stock and its all set at 0 rite now can't wait to start adjusting... this cam is good


anyone know any good adjustment points for my distributor and cam gear?... any good settings that u've seen on a single cam

I wouldnt mess with the cam timing personally and if so no more than a few degrees just because every time I see dyno charts where the car was tuned, and its a DOHC they never have both cams set the same, I usually even see intake advanced a couple and exhaust retarded a couple. wouldnt hurt to try out different settings though, be careful not to overtighten/strip the cam gear when adjusting it if you do it alot, also how maty bolts hold the gear together on the OBX one. ignition timing Ive heard advancing it is more for low end and retarding it helps high RPM's. never really did back to back runs with both settings though to see if Id notice a difference.

true if i advance my ignition timing what should i do with my cam gear timing? retard or should i advance that also?

just to shed a little light on the Z6 and Y8 cams. the stock specs r different, but crower's oem replacements and stage 1-3 r all spec'd identical. so this cam, if it really was made by crower and sold w/ the OBX name, was made for u'r engine. no worries there. glad to hear u got it running good. by the way, how much did u pay?

it cost me 75 bux my valve clicking is still louder then stock... just curious as to why this would be?

what kind of oil are you using?

i dont know.. i jsut bought the car 1 month ago and he just changed it like 1 week before that... he said it was mobil 1 synthetic...

cam was only 75 bucks?

nah hell nah cam was 200 shipped.... the 75 bux was to adjust the vavles and redo my timing...

is there a certain oil i should switch to ?

ok I was thinking that was hella cheap. but I wasnt sure. Id still be using what your car calls for. which im not sure but probably is 5w30

no certain oil, mobil 1 is one of the best out there anyway. just that a thicker or thiner oil will help to reduce the valve tap. for the life of me i cant think right now which one it is though.

thicker oil usually will quiet noises but dont go too thick or the pump will have a real; hard time getting it everywhere.

my friends supra had a rod-knock and we put a bit of hyper-lube (thick as cold honey) in there and the sound went away, of course as the problem got worse the sound came back and everntually it needed rebuilding but just shows you what noises you can mask with some thick shit.

today i installed a autometer air/fuel gauge... i can't get the bitch to work it just stays allt he way on RICH rite when i turn the car on it shoots from red through yellow all the way to green then from there on it STAYS at green the last tick on green....

i tried allt he wires on the o2 sensor

and after i installed it my fucking speedometer JUmPS AROUND when i drive it....
ANY IDEAS

also i can't figure out where to adjust my camgear and distribuotor at..

cause when i i advance them both... the car pulls nice in low eend but lacks in the top end

then when i retard it... it lacks in the low wend but pulls int he TOP