Problems with 98 Windstar
Deepak528
11-03-2004, 09:34 AM
I am the second owner of a 98 Ford Windstar. Sometimes last year it start having 'hickups' when doing a cold start. The RPM needle would erractically move up and down. It would almost seem it would die out, but never did. As soon as I changed the gear to Drive, the RPM would be fine. This past sunday, the 'hickups' seemed even worse and the car finally died (temporarily). I opened the hood to see if all fluids are okay and to my surprise coolant reservoir was empty!
I filled the reservoir with water and the car started. The coolant was just filed a week ago and seems to be leaking? The car never had heating issues so it might be an additional problem that just surfaced.
Other Known issues:
1) Cruise Control just decided to die on my one day and never worked since
2) Power mirrors also started acting up and now are completeling dead.
3) Fuel Guage died a while ago and shows Full all the time.
Right now I am really trying to understand why the RPM needle goes crazy when I start my car and why do you think it just died that day.
Thanks.
I filled the reservoir with water and the car started. The coolant was just filed a week ago and seems to be leaking? The car never had heating issues so it might be an additional problem that just surfaced.
Other Known issues:
1) Cruise Control just decided to die on my one day and never worked since
2) Power mirrors also started acting up and now are completeling dead.
3) Fuel Guage died a while ago and shows Full all the time.
Right now I am really trying to understand why the RPM needle goes crazy when I start my car and why do you think it just died that day.
Thanks.
Dngrsone
11-03-2004, 05:27 PM
Ok, one thing at a time.
In a normally operating engine it will start at around 1500 rpm idle and shortly drop down in stages to 1000-800 rpm. It should remain stable after that.
There are a lot of things that can affect idle. The Idle Air Control (IAC) is used to maintain the idle. If it is sticking, that could cause this type of problem. That would be my first step-- checking that out.
Several sensors provide data to the Power Control Module, which drives the IAC. Among them is the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, which is in line between the filter and throttle body assembly.
Which engine do you have, 3.0 or 3.8 Liter?
If you are losing coolant, then you need to find that leak, pronto. How much are you losing over what period? If there is a pinhole leak in one of the hoses or hard lines, your best bet to find it is when the engine is hot and running. Look in the engine bay at all the cooling hoses and see if you can spot any wetness forming on the hose or line or nearby. A piece of paper can be used to spot a pinhole leak because it will show the wetness when it intercepts the stream. I caution you not to feel for leaks with your hand because you could get hurt very easily with high-temperature, pressurized water.
If you have a clean driveway, look for evidence of leaks after the vehicle has been sitting for a while, like overnight. If you don't have an unblemished area to work with, then layer some newspaper or paper bags under the vehicle to help you spot the leak(s).
Check your oil for presence of water. It may show as little droplets on the dip stick or the oil may be cloudy.
If you can't identify the source of the leakage, you can get a cooling system leak tester from your local auto parts store. Autozone will sell you one for around $70, plus you have to purchase the adapter for the Windstar separately for another $35 or so, and then refund all your money back when you return it. The Windstar cooling systemd is a closed-loop 16psi system. If you pressurize it to ssay, 18psi and the pressure drops within ten minutes, you definately have a leak.
If it isn't your hoses or hard lines, then it will either be the radiator or a blown gasket. Ford 3.8 liter engines from 95-98 are notorious for bad head gaskets. If it is only your intake manifold gasket (lucky you), then your coolant will most likely show in the oil.
If the coolant gets into a cylinder in quantity, then you are look at bent rods, damaged pistons, and the like which is why I say it is imperative you identify the leak before things get worse.
The other problems can be addressed at a later time, but find that coolant leak now.
Dngrsone
In a normally operating engine it will start at around 1500 rpm idle and shortly drop down in stages to 1000-800 rpm. It should remain stable after that.
There are a lot of things that can affect idle. The Idle Air Control (IAC) is used to maintain the idle. If it is sticking, that could cause this type of problem. That would be my first step-- checking that out.
Several sensors provide data to the Power Control Module, which drives the IAC. Among them is the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor, which is in line between the filter and throttle body assembly.
Which engine do you have, 3.0 or 3.8 Liter?
If you are losing coolant, then you need to find that leak, pronto. How much are you losing over what period? If there is a pinhole leak in one of the hoses or hard lines, your best bet to find it is when the engine is hot and running. Look in the engine bay at all the cooling hoses and see if you can spot any wetness forming on the hose or line or nearby. A piece of paper can be used to spot a pinhole leak because it will show the wetness when it intercepts the stream. I caution you not to feel for leaks with your hand because you could get hurt very easily with high-temperature, pressurized water.
If you have a clean driveway, look for evidence of leaks after the vehicle has been sitting for a while, like overnight. If you don't have an unblemished area to work with, then layer some newspaper or paper bags under the vehicle to help you spot the leak(s).
Check your oil for presence of water. It may show as little droplets on the dip stick or the oil may be cloudy.
If you can't identify the source of the leakage, you can get a cooling system leak tester from your local auto parts store. Autozone will sell you one for around $70, plus you have to purchase the adapter for the Windstar separately for another $35 or so, and then refund all your money back when you return it. The Windstar cooling systemd is a closed-loop 16psi system. If you pressurize it to ssay, 18psi and the pressure drops within ten minutes, you definately have a leak.
If it isn't your hoses or hard lines, then it will either be the radiator or a blown gasket. Ford 3.8 liter engines from 95-98 are notorious for bad head gaskets. If it is only your intake manifold gasket (lucky you), then your coolant will most likely show in the oil.
If the coolant gets into a cylinder in quantity, then you are look at bent rods, damaged pistons, and the like which is why I say it is imperative you identify the leak before things get worse.
The other problems can be addressed at a later time, but find that coolant leak now.
Dngrsone
justatech
11-03-2004, 09:12 PM
which engine do you have 3.0or 3.8? 3.8 could have a blown head gasket, check pcv tube hoses for wear and check front cover for leaks....
Deepak528
11-04-2004, 07:17 AM
which engine do you have 3.0or 3.8? 3.8 could have a blown head gasket, check pcv tube hoses for wear and check front cover for leaks....
I have 3.8 L. Thanks for the responses. I will take go over these things this weekend. Unfortunately I am not that auto saavy. I would probably end up taking it to a trusted mechanic.
I will keep you updated.
Thanks.
I have 3.8 L. Thanks for the responses. I will take go over these things this weekend. Unfortunately I am not that auto saavy. I would probably end up taking it to a trusted mechanic.
I will keep you updated.
Thanks.
wiswind
11-04-2004, 08:15 PM
The windstar is also known for leaking coolant out from under the timing chain cover. The bottom of the block would be damp on the drive belt side of the engine. Mine was just a seapage....that I slowed down significantly with some stop leak that I added to the radiator. Replacing this seal.....is a bigger job than I am up to.... Step #1 is "remove engine". This makes it a $1500+ job at the dealer. My leak was very small......I needed to add a bit of coolant to the overflow bottle 1 time each month. Now......is very seldom.
I had a leak develop in the inside of the PCV line elbow.....which is right on the top of the upper intake manifold......next to the IAC (Idle Air Control)..... Move that around just a bit with the engine at idle....and listen for a hissing sound.
I shall include a link to a couple of pictures of my '96.... with some items labled....including the IAC.. Your '98 will be similar.....
You can also go to blackstone labs website...and get a free sample kit....and then send in an oil sample......for testing....not very expensive...and will tell you if you are getting coolant into the oil.
If you are getting a lot....you should see a milky residue on the inside of you oil fill cap....
Coolant into the cylinders.....not good.....could be lower intake manifold gaskets and / or head gaskets.
http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK
I had a leak develop in the inside of the PCV line elbow.....which is right on the top of the upper intake manifold......next to the IAC (Idle Air Control)..... Move that around just a bit with the engine at idle....and listen for a hissing sound.
I shall include a link to a couple of pictures of my '96.... with some items labled....including the IAC.. Your '98 will be similar.....
You can also go to blackstone labs website...and get a free sample kit....and then send in an oil sample......for testing....not very expensive...and will tell you if you are getting coolant into the oil.
If you are getting a lot....you should see a milky residue on the inside of you oil fill cap....
Coolant into the cylinders.....not good.....could be lower intake manifold gaskets and / or head gaskets.
http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK
Deepak528
11-08-2004, 07:58 AM
Turns out the pump that circulates the coolant was dead. I had it changed. I hope it didn't do too much damage.
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