Codes 1537 1538 IMRC System

Engine light on scan codes show P1537 P1538
these are codes for the Intake Manifold control system
What would cause these to come on has anyone else run across these codes
or had problems with this sensor/ switch/solenoid
These seem to be the same items that I have on my Mazda only they call them VRIS sensors /selnoids.
Any help would be appreciated
a search has not turned anything up
Roger

What model year?

sorry should have mentioned it's a1996 3.8

I don't have any experience with that year model. A number of posters have found the vacuum diaphrams on one or both of the IMRC actuators to leak.

Good luck.

If you look on the right side of the engine just behind the fuel pressure regulator, you will see two vacuum motors. These are the IMRC actuators. When the engine is at idle, both actuators should be on, so have someone start the engine for you and see it they move the IMRC runners (each controls a set of butterfly valves in the lower intake manifold). If one goes and the other doesn't, chances are it's bad. If neither goes, then it is likely the IMRC control solenoid which is attached to the back side of the upper intake plenum. There are two back there, the lefthand on is the IMRC and the right hand is the EGR solenoid, IIRC. Check for broken or leaky vacuum lines... them things break pretty easy.

I have a '96.
I have NOT had a problem with these...but would like to direct you to some pictures that I posted.
I took these pictures when I was working on my EGR ports and cleaning my fuel injectors.
The IMRC runners are controlled by 2 vacuum actuated solonoids. The feedback....that indicates if they are open or closed is electrical.
The RED line that goes to the top of each solonoid is a AIR VACUUM line. I know that it looks like a heavy gauge electric wire....but it is a vacuum hose.
The advice that you have been given above is good advice.
There are stops for each rail (front rail and rear rail).
You will want to verify that the runner shaft can move to the fully open stop (will be there with the engine OFF). And that it can run to the fully closed stop (will be there with the engine ON at idle). There is NO in between. They are either OPEN or CLOSED.

Pictures at... http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK

Thanks to everyone I just checked them and spryed linkae with lubricant and cleaner
rescanned no more daults now will check again tomorow after I take it on a highway run
everones help apprecaited
having the scn tool helps a great deal Dealer wanted $90 just to scan
Paid $175 Can for scan tool I would have apd fro it twice already with what ive paid to the dealer over the last three months .

I have the same code p1537, but the code reader does not mention the IMRC, but the idle speed control auxiliary???

Check to see if plastic gromets [6$] that hold linkage on the IMRC's are not damaged or missing. That's all that was wrong with my IMRC's on my '98 Winnie 3.8L. Note: If you do need to replace IMRC's, Bank 1 is near the firewall, Bank 2 is near the radiator. Also, check Millenium Ford in AL, y2kford.com, 100$ cheaper on this part than my local dealer. Good luck with it.

I have the same code p1537, but the code reader does not mention the IMRC, but the idle speed control auxiliary???

I had the same, but when I fixed my IMRC, this code went away. Aslo won't hurt to clean you MAF.

they are the vaccuume accuators (AKA Choke Pull off) located on the passenger side, one is located under the alternator, and the other is located near the firewall, they are quite costly from the dealer, they run about 240 bucks, the one in the front of the vehical is the one that goes bad first, which makes the other fail as well, to do this test start the engine remove one vaccume line start from the front one. Plug it with your finger and see if the rear accuator moves. Repeat for the rear one. They are quite easy to replace. Mine also went bad and I needed to replace the front one. I found a dealer located in arrizona that beats the dealers price buy almost a 100 bucks. I can email you the info

My CEL stays on (I have checked so many times and know for sure about the codes p1537 and p1538) for a few days and went off, then on ... then off!
Is it still okay to drive then replace them when time allows?