97 SC1 Service Engine Soon light

I have a 97 SC1 w/124K miles on it. It started to idle high a few days ago then it was hard to start. It seemed like it wasn't getting enough gas. It would start but sputter until I stepped on the gas to keep it from stalling.
The Service Engine Soon light came on the following day. I was told to check the EGR valve. I tried to clean it up a little but no help. I also changed the plugs and put new wires on.
After I did this and I could get it started (but had to hold the gas peddle down)there was white smoke coming out of the tailpipe with a strong odor. Not oil but.... I dunno can't describe it.
I was trying top find a way to read the code thru the Data Link Connector but the Haynes manual only shows what pins to short out up to '95 models.
If I try and take to Autozone or somewhere else I'm afraid I might not get it started again to get it back home.
Anyone have any suggestions??????

white smoke with a sweet smell is antifreeze, if it had a blueish tint, it is oil. check both oil and coolent levels. if you get a ride to autozone, i think they sell a cheapo scanner for under $100, etherway, post the codes and i tell you what to fix

sierrap615,

Thanks for the reply. I finally got the codes read. There were 2 of them.
The first one was P303 and the 2nd was P7111.

Looking in the Haynes manual the P303 says "Cylinder #3 Misfire Detected"
the P7111 says "Transaxle Fluid Temp Sensor or Circuit Malfunction or Failure"
I did change the plugs and wires. Maybe dirt or something fell into #3??? just guessing.
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

First have you checked the gap of the plugs that you bought and matched them to manufacturers specs? this is one of the most easily forgotten things to do when replacing plugs.
Your #3 Cyl Could be running lean (possibly clogged injector) causing that cylinder to preignite the a/f mix or if it has been to long it may be detonating (pre ignition and detonation are the same just that detonation is the worst of the 2) which is when the mix ignites before it gets to top dead center and the actual spark get to ignite it due to excessive cylinder temps which will in return cause a knock then you car automatically retards timing and will kill your power.
Another thing you may want to check is the timing because the chain or belt could have slipped and thrown your timing off.
Third, thing you may also want to check and/or replace the pcv valve, fuel filter and maybe check if your fpr is working correctly.
Fourth,Check the ICM (ignition control module) and ignition coils are all fine and not corroded or cracked.
Last, if you putting out white smoke that is most in likely a blown head gasket or cracked block and/or head, like sierrap615 said its antifreeze being burned.

Hopes this helps a little bit.
Paul

Oh yea, does your car shift fine even though the tft sensor is not working? get back at me I may be able to help.

Thanks Paul,
There is no problem with the car shifting gears.
I was reading thru some of the posts here and the Haynes manual.
I'm leaning toward changing the ECT sensor. The manual says that it controls the fuel injection system also.
I've read on here to use only the brass tipped sensor but the other one is the "new and improved" version. Does it matter if I can't get the brass tipped one?

Thanks,
Kerch

Only use a brass ECT sensor due to it being reliable / accurate. I think they cost like $15-20 direct from satan (dealership). You could also possibly check www.rockauto.com. They may have a brass one for a better deal.

the ECT and the TFT (Transaxle Fluid Temp Sensor) are not the same sensor, be are extremly similar in design(in fact, now that i think about, they may even have the same part number)

the brass one is the new and improved version

what type of plugs/wires did you install? gapped to 0.040"? have you had a chance to check the fluid levels or smell the exhaust again?

how has it been driving the last two days?

Sierra,
Thanks for your interest.

I don't get much time to actually work on the car. I work 3-11 so I try and get to it in the mornings.

Anyhow, I used Bosch Platinum plugs and did check the gap. The new plugs had an additional screw on top for a longer contact into the boot.
The fluids are fine. I just changed the oil about 3-4 days before this happened.
Now my biggest problem seems to be getting the car started. When I can get it started and drive it, it runs fine. Like I said, my biggest problem now is getting it started.
The exhaust smells "rich".
The only time there is white smoke is when I have a problem starting it and it stutters trying to start then I have to give it gas. After that, it seems ok.

I thought that since the manual said about the ECT controling the operation of the fuel injection system that it might be causing the hard start problem?????
All of the codes were erased, but after I tried to start it the last time, one came back but I haven't had time to scan it.
I'll post what it is when I finally read it.

Thanks

the ECT is a huge part of the fuel mixture, and can cause hard starts. trash the platinum plugs, they are junk, oil distroys the electrode tips, that alone could solve your missfire.

oops! gotta go, i'll finish this message later tonight

ok, i'm back. anyway too make matters worse if those are the Bosch 4+ those things have so many tips the air/fuel mixture can't flow thru the spark.

i had a old set of platiums with about 5000 miles, i tested them on an ignition scope, didn't see a single difference.

the best plugs you can buy for saturns are NGK (V-Power style prefered) or if they are not availible then AC Delco.

I had a my wife check the code today while I'm at work. It was the P303 again.
I had her clear the code and try and start the car. She said it started ok, then she shut it off and tried to start it again a few minutes later.
She said that it was back to not wanting to start.
She said it seems like before, flooded and a strong smell in the exhaust when it does start.

I haven't changed the ECT yet, will tomorrow morning.

Just wanted to thank everyone and give ya an update.

Well.....
I changed the ECTS this morning following the step-by-step instructions here on the web site.
I must say; "It worked!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

There was a huge crack across the end of the plastic sensor.

After I got the sensor changed I started the car up with no problems, took it for a 20 minute drive and everything seemed to be working!.
The 2 things I noticed most are: 1) My temp gauge seems to be more responsive 2) The car now idles around 800RPM instead of 1000-1200rpms. It's been that high since I bought the car.

Thanks to everyone for their advice.

Kerch :smile:

sounds good, but of all the things i've heard replacing the ECT fixes, this is the frist time i have ever heard of it solving a missfire. keep in mind what i said about the plugs if the missfire comes back.