2000 SE paint problem and steering noise (m)

I get the feeling from searching this forum that this steering noise is common and caused by 'tie rods' - please forgive this automotively challenged lady, but I have no clue what that means. My car squeaks something awful when turning, took it to the dealer back in April and was told for $900 they could fix it ("front end assembly" was the problem, I was told) I said no thanks, and they must have done your 'grease' trick as it stopped squealing until about a month ago when it started up again.

The other problem I just noticed this weekend was the paint - the roof paint (my daughter shot an air rocket that landed up there) is flaking and rusting. I also noticed a huge chunk of paint around the tailgate of the back hatch is just gone - right down to the primer. No damage (i.e. wasn't hit) just the paint must have dropped off??

Oh, we also have a problem now with the ABS brake light coming on - but the brakes are working fine and were changed back in July, this just started recently.

Any suggestions on how to approach the dealer/repair folks about any of this is greatly appreciated.

Thanks much

Here is the specific wording of the bill
"Replace SOP Front converter seal and converter. Checked for fluid leak found trans fluid coming from converter. Removed starter, exhaust and mounted engine support across top of engine. Removed sub frame and trans replaced converter seal and converter reinstalled trans and componants listed above ,filled trans and test drove no leaks found. Topped off trans fluid. Also removed both axle shafts."

The estimate reads :
"Estimate to replace steering rack and FEA $895. Torque converter repair was done $100 deductible under extended warranty"

Any ideas?? 2000 Windstar LX 52,000 miles

Sounds high for a steering rack.....but I am not up on prices. Tie rod ends are the pivot point at the end of the shaft that comes out of the steering rack......where it connects to the "arm" that comes from behind the front tire.
If you turn the front wheels....say to the right(Passenger side)....and then look in behind the front Driver side tire....you will see the tie rod end.
The factory installed tie rod ends are "lubed for life"....and have no grease fittings for grease to be added. Many of us expect more "life" out of our cars than a couple years.....so these tie rod ends can end up needing more lubrication....they become stiff....and sqweek when they move (like I do in the morning). This makes for more resistance when you turn the wheel.....making your power steering work harder..... The "Grease trick" is to get a grease gun.....and a "grease needle" (which you can buy at auto part stores, like Autozone, Checker, and Advance. The grease gun comes with the proper attachment to connect onto the grease fittings that most cars no longer have.....and the grease needle has a grease fitting on it..... What we do is connect the grease needle to the end of the grease gun.....and poke the needle into the side of the rubber seal on the tie rod end.....and inject a SMALL amount of grease into the tie rod end......When you see any movement of the grease seal (as in filling up)...or ANY grease coming out (you shouldn't)...you will want to stop....you don't want to get too much grease in. The grease DOES come out through that needle a lot faster than one would expect it to.

The other point that we do the grease needle is the lower ball joint......this is behind the tire.....this is the lower pivot point for the tire when you turn the wheel....

If the steering pump seems to be making noise.......
Then having the power steering fluid changed might help....many have done this. I believe your 2000 will need Mercon Automatic Transmission Fluid. Do not put "Power Steering Fluid" into your power steering (now that sounds strange....but it is true).
Check your owner's manual to verify the correct fluid.
The Windstar tends to have very hot power steering fluid....so it does break down.

Automatic Transmission.......
To keep your transmission happy (and your wallet)...you MUST have the transmission fluid changed at LEAST every 30,000 miles for normal usage......more often for "severe usage"...(towing, stop and go traffic). The transmission is a weak point in most any minivan. The minivans have a CAR transmission......not a truck transmission.
I have to keep reminding myself of that. Your transmission will require a Mercon V rated fluid.
Mercon and Mercon V are NOT interchangable.
These are RATINGS (specifications) not BRANDS....so there are several brands that you can choose from.
Stay away from fluids that say that they are BOTH Mercon and Mercon V.....They are different specifications.....specifically different frictional properties....

The ABS light might just be a simple top up of your brake fluid resevoir tank under the hood -front drivers windshield /vent area. Top up with correct fluid as per Mfgr. recommendations and cross fingers it goes out. And, my rack and pinion went about 6 mths back and cost just over $800 and change at Ford(central Canada).
I have not heard of anyone else with similar paint problems but I know from stone chips and leaving it fester for a short period they swell with soil/dirt road grime and paint can lift and chip off in pieces. Go to Ford and get the color match Touch Up Paint tube for your vehicle and touch up yourself if small enough areas(1" less) not perfect but it will stop the hole from progressing. If rusting as mentioned use a bit of "000" extra fine steel wool and carefully scuff the area prior to touch up and blow dust away (stay clear of surrounding paint) The chip on the back hatch sounds like it might have been hit with something?? either a item was left on the tailgate and the door closed on it and were not aware..or similar "bang"! May have to get a spray bomb for that one. or leave it to the pro's. Good luck.

What PumpItUp is refering to is that the sensor in the master cylinder that indicates when you are running low on brake fluid will illuminate the ABS light. It is very sensitive.....in other words...you want the brake fluid to be right at....but not over....the "MAX" line. The line is hard to see.

I looked into the FORD specification for the brake fluid for the Windstar..... They require a MINIMUM dry boil point of 550 degrees F. (288 C). This is HIGHER than the minimum dry boil point requirements of DOT3 and DOT4. I did not find this rating on any of the brake fluids at the auto part stores in my area (Valvoline Syntec is 480 degrees F).... So I bought Motorcraft Brake fluid.

On my '96.....you have to take the brake fluid bottle.....and get it back in under the windsheild wiper cowl......THEN remove the cap. (I know this sounds funny....but you have to tip the bottle sideways to get it back there). Use ONLY brake fluid that is from a new, sealed, container..... Once the seal is broken on the bottle....it starts to absorb moisture....reducing the boil point.....and also causing the fluid to not protect the brake system from corrosion. So....just a small bottle is all you need.

The paint issue on top of your car that you describe sounds like the surface was not prepared properly before painting.....I have not heard or seen this as being an issue on the Windstar......The Areostar is another story. The only other thing I can think of is some sort of chemical fallout (sometimes happens near a factory) or if something was carried on top of the car....like before the paint was fully cured.
Another possibility is hail damage (before you got it). The back hatch.....could have been bumped in a parking lot or something......

I have had the roof drip rails/ edges repainted on my 2001 Windstar repainted twice already. Both were covered by the factory warranty although the second time the van was technically 'out' of warranty by six months the paint shop still did the work. If it still flakes off again I'm going to do it myself :swear: .