Overcooling

Got a little problem with my 95 SL1:

About a month ago maybe, I was changing the oil, getting the engine warm. When I was going to turn the engine off to start the change, I noticed a SES code. Code 26 Quad Driver. Well since then, haven't seen it again.

Early one morning, went to start the car. Everything ok. The idle seemed alot higher then normal around and like it was lacking power through shifts. So I went to work, then when I left for the road again. Same thing. Not as bad, the idle stuff is not that problematic, but there is a point to why I mention it.

As I was driving I noticed the car sounded like the cooling fan was running. And sure enough, when I got home and looked, the fan was spinning away.

Normally the fan wont kick in unless Im about 3/4 hot and that only occurs when I'm sitting in traffic for a long time. So the fan is running, the gauge says its not more then 1/8 above "cold".

The reason I mention the idle, is because the way it was driving is the way it drives when the A/C is on (higher idle, less power through shifts, fan running). Well the A/C was not on and in fact the climate control fan wasnt even on.

Interesting enough, the fan doesnt turn on right when I startup. I just came in from driving it and in fact I turned it over, sat for a slight moment to fasten my belt, left the parking lot and drove about 20 yards, and then I heard the fan kick in again...stayed on the entire ride.


So following a suggest I got I disconnected the ECTS wire.
Drove the car till, when it got about 1/8 warm, fan kicked in again and I got a Code 15 [ Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit (Temperature out of range - Low)]. Which I guess is understandable since the wire was disconnected. Fan still came on at the 1/8 warm mark.

Any suggestions for a next step what else could be causing this overcooling?

Thanks in advance for any help.

did you get that suggestion from Wolfman?

if the ECT hasn't been replaced since 2001(redesigned) go ahead and change it, besure the connectior is clean. sometimes(not very often) coolent can get in the connectior

did you get that suggestion from Wolfman?

if the ECT hasn't been replaced since 2001(redesigned) go ahead and change it, besure the connectior is clean. sometimes(not very often) coolent can get in the connectior

Thanks for responding. Yes that was Wolfmans suggestion. I checked the connection and it was clean as a whistle. Do you think replacing the ECTS will solve this problem, or is it more of a preventative thing? And if it doesnt solve the problem, what other components might be impacting this fan to kick in constantly?

Also, I saw the sensor for sale at Advanced Auto Parts. It looks completely different then the ones people talk about (the brass ones). Is getting the part there ok? Or will it just go bad on me eventually as well?

with the new saturn OEM ECT, you should never need to replace it again. if this doesn't fix your problem i will be very surprized. only buy the SATURN OEM BRASS sensor, nothing else. while you are in there, you may want to check the PCV, another saturn only peice, aftermarket ones will cause excessive oil burning, and quick oil places like to replace them just for the hell of it. these are the only two PCV that will work right. - http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=26072

Quad driver is the ground side of switches that the pcm controls. Did you add in a manual radiator fan switch?

next time the fan starts running, pop the hood and look at the A/C pulley, the rivits should not spin with the A/C off, but should with the A/C on and engine running.

the quad driver effects 8 things. including cooling fan, A/C, and EGR all can change the idle